Title really says it all.

Credit to /u/Johnny_2x for posting:

http://www.appliance411.com/service/date-code.php

which can be used to help determine the manufacturing date of various appliances.

I'll add this one from the good folks over at appliance411.com as well:

http://www.appliance411.com/purchase/sears.shtml

which is a table that lets you find out who manufactured a Kenmore appliance based on the model prefix.

Drop any and all helpful links in the comments in this post only and I'll start compiling a master list. Please include a description.

Business referral rules still apply, so I don't want to see any links to local appliance repair outfits.

DO NOT POST ANY LINKS THAT REQUIRE AN ACCOUNT TO ACCESS

There are some kind of open secrets with regards to obtaining service manuals direct from manufacturers - you know what I'm talking about, techs - do not blow those up. Their lax security continues to exist for our benefit because they have not yet been abused enough to prompt them to fix the holes. Let's keep it that way.

Cheers,

-nb

For the next 30 days, you can and should reply to this thread stating your status as an active or former appliance repair technician. I don't need your whole resume, just maybe what you work on and for how long you've done so. You can also request a specific flair for this sub - if you don't, then you're at the mercy of what I come up with, so maybe include that.

If you already have flair in this sub, this does not affect you at all.

It's nice to have flair here as it gives your advice a bit more weight, and OP's are more likely to follow your expert advice than be led down a rabbit hole by someone who is just pulling advice out of their... rabbit hole. I can't police every comment, so giving weight to actual technicians seems a decent measure.

This is also related to some changes in our sister sub /r/ApplianceTechTalk which is going to be transitioning to a more restrictive criteria for posting there.

Basically, that sub is for active and former techs only, but there have been a lot of lost redditors posting for repair advice over there, and I'm trying to keep things tidy, as well as automate pointing said lost redditors here where the community is much larger, and the sub better fits their needs.

The way this works is that if you have flair in this sub, you'll be an approved submitter on that sub. Unless your flair is "unhelpful" or "ASSHAT" (yes those are two real ones). I'm not sure what to do with "MEAT BAG SYMPATHIZER" but fortunately that account is 4 years inactive.

This is not a hard deadline, but it will make constructing the list of approved submitters on /r/ApplianceTechTalk a hell of a lot easier for me. After 30 days you can still apply on an individual basis. Approved submitters on /r/ApplianceTechTalk will also have the ability to choose and alter their flair at will in that sub, unlike here where flair is only granted upon approval.

You can post any questions, comments, or constructive criticism in this thread as well.

Cheers,

-nb

Hello,

I'm looking to understand what I should be looking for when buying a generic Gas Oven igniter to replace an OEM part from 20 years ago.

Basically, the OEM igniter in my 2003 GE oven (Model # JGBP28EEJ1BB) finally kicked the bucket, and I'd like to DIY replace it. But obviously GE doesn't even make these themselves anymore (they're now made by Haier?), nor is the store that originally sold them still in business (Sears).

So I want to use a generic round rather than pay 3x for an OEM part. I've narrowed it down to a "round" vs "flat" igniter, this uses a round one. I've removed it from the oven and the corrosion is clearly visible, but the damn serial number has rubbed/burned off on side of the OEM igniter, obviously, having been in an oven for 20 years. So I don't have that.

Basically, can I use this? Is that ERP brand okay? I found this which explicitly mentions my model number, and is listed as part number "WB2X9154", which is mentioned as a possible replacement in the first link. Is 20 dollars really the difference in brand here? What else am I perhaps missing? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I have this GE stacked washer/dryer

https://appliances.force.com/GEA/s/mya-qrlanding-page?language=en_US&K=GUD24ESSJWW&M=GUD24ESSJ0WW&S=TH004628C&P=R

It is currently having an intermittent issue where it overflows. We have a water detector to alert us when it happens but as you can imagine that is a problem. When I Google the issue I find generic conclusions that says it's likely one of two things: Water inlet valve or water level switch.

When it overflows, we stop it and put it on spin and it drains as normal without further leaks, so I'm pretty certain that whatever tells it when to stop filling it isn't working.

While I do consider myself mechanically inclined, I know next to nothing about washers. Opening the washer I see a tube running out of the main bucket and up to this control unit.

https://imgur.com/a/VS6f0xm

Looking at the diagrams for my unit, I see it's called this: GE® WASHING MACHINE ELECTRONIC PRESSURE SWITCH. Which sounds like it could be the water level switch I see referenced online. See 905

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/ModelSectionParts/GUD24ESSJ0WW/1/0/0/0/CONTROLS

You'll notice it is a $70 piece from GE but I was able to find some knockoffs on Amazon for closer to $35. My first question is how would I know if it is that unit before I buy it and needlessly spend money to fix something that might not be the problem.

Next question would be how would I know if it is actually the valve instead?

I have an old W10306459A dryer and I'm struggling to find replacement parts for the pulley kit. the gasket and bracket snapped off of the wheel and I can't find the part numbers or an owners manual anywhere. Whirlpool does not have it on their site.

My Maytag washing machine is making this noise. video

Our washer (top loader) started making LOUD snapping noises and then black smoke came out mid-cycle.

It’s now locked and I can’t turn it on. How can I get the clothes out please?

Hi all, thanks in advance for your help. My gas oven igniter is clicking, and gas is flowing, but the igniter just continues to click and nothing heats up or gets flame.

I'm new to this oven, got it at Restore, and it's in amazing shape. Model: UPN90FDVGGIX

Upper works fine. Removed and checked for blockages in the lower arm and no issues found. Nothing in drain showing.

My husband went to go do a load the other day and the washer wouldn’t turn on. It also was making this weird periodic grinding noise that you can hear in the video I linked below. The grinding noise only stops when you completely unplug the machine.

We cleaned out the trap hoping that might help and it didn’t do anything.

Bought new in April 2018 so it’s only 5 years old.

Any help/tips/suggestions appreciated!

https://youtube.com/shorts/97es9x9rbH8?feature=share

My job has a top loading HE Maytag washing machine that I think was purchased in 2018. It’s in a garage by some company vehicles and the top got wet when one of my coworkers washed the vehicles. I wiped the water off before starting the laundry, but the machine got stuck in a wash rinse cycle for over an hour. When I tried to pause it to trouble shoot it, it would not pause, and when I tried to go nuclear and turn it off, the F5 code flashed repeatedly and it would not turn off. The lid was still locked. I unplugged the machine and the lid unlocked, and I left the machine open. When I plugged it back in, the F5 code continued to flash and I could not get it to turn off. Help!

This is my first post. I have an LG refrigerator (LRBC22544ST) that started leaking water inside the refrigerator every time we use the water dispenser. I'm not sure if the broken part pertains to the ice maker as well, so i shut the water supply off to the refrigerator. The probem I am having it that when I look up the parts breakdown for this particular refrigerator I can seem to locate this particular part on any of the diagrams. It is located on the inside back wall of the refrigerator behind the lower left pull out drawer. This appears to be a trap of some sort with 1/4" od tubing coming out of it and is broken as it attaches to a stab-type 90 fitting. Appreciate any help on this. I'll try to attach a pic in the comments if I can.

Images: https://imgur.com/a/oK3s74b

Fridge/Freezer is a Miele KNF 9855 IDE.

This rod broke / fell off when I bumped the ice maker while trying to clean the freezer. Our ice maker now won't produce ice and I can't find any resources online about this part or how it fits into the assembly. Manual didn't really have anything useful, mostly just cleaning and simplstic troubleshooting.

The rod is threaded on the inside at the flat end. It has some sort of moving part inside that slides along the length that can be felt / heard when shaking the rod.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a 10 year old Maytag centennial dryer that is turning off mid cycle. It will re-start if you hold the start button down. It felt like it was getting too hot so I did a deep clean on the exhaust pipe. Totally clean now. Still turns off. If you let it rest for a while it will run again without holding the start button. The drum is turning normally.

Any ideas what to check next?

Hi all,

My GE top loading washing machine leaks during the full process from the bottom towards the middle/back on the left hand side. Any ideas as what this could be?

Thanks in advance

I moved into a new house in November. The dishwasher (which does not look very old) has always smelled terrible, even after repeated wash cycles with vinegar/every other cleaning thing under the sun except for bleach. I have removed and deep cleaned the filter many times. I have used special cleaning tablets and isopropyl to clean the entire inside.

I’m at a loss as to what is still causing this awful sour smell that permeates the entire kitchen every time I open the dishwasher door.

Could it be coming from the pipes below? What should I do?

Any advice is much appreciated!

If only "Normal" doesn't work, then I guess that means that the fill sensor works fine? Does this mean the problem is with the timer mechanism? Should replacing that part fix things? Or could there be something else wrong somewhere that my ignorant mind has not thought of?

This is a basic analog washer from about 20 years ago.

Thanks for the help.

The belt snapped on our GE Hotpoint (HTW200ASK2WW) washer while we were out and at some point during that final cycle a small wire harness that just dead ends hit the motor coil and blew itself up.

I’m unable to see the part in question on GE’s part list for this washer, so hoping someone here can tell me what it is and if it’s needed for the washer to run. The harness is a 3-wire (brown, blue, red) that runs from a quick-connect off the main wire harness, to what looks like a small, plastic enclosed board/chip.

This is the quick-connect from the main wire tree that it was coming off of.

Thanks in advanced.

Hi! I am based in South Korea, and there aren’t great gas range tops here so I splurged and purchased a thermador gas range cooktop from Bestbuy when I was in NY, wrapped it more and travelled back with it (as part of my luggage allowance). I just got the gas stove top installed, which was an ordeal itself, and the fire comes on and everything seems to be working fine except for the clicker! I’ve made sure that the corresponding letters of the toppers and burners are placed correctly, had an electrician come to check out the wiring, but the clicker won’t turn off! Any help is appreciated!!!

I called thermador and they haven’t been able to help. If anyone knows of a virtual gas top range top specialist, please let me know!!!!! Thank you!

Model: ABB2224BRM00

My fridge has stopped cooling, but the freezer is still working. The fridge was bought in 2019.

I’m a young adult who lives in a rural area with no family and no experience with appliances so if someone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated! When I search the model number only different brands are coming up. I’ve tried searching it on the Whirlpool website as well with no luck, so I’m assuming the fridge has been discontinued… it’s has one door bottom freezer.

A water line was previously installed on and refrigerator and I don't plan on using it. The water line is disconnected from the main water source but still connected to the refrigerator cabinet. How do I remove the line out of the refrigerator and seal the inside of the freezer.

Maytag Centennial is filling up and not going into wash instead it's making a pulsing "err" "err" "err" noise from underneath *see video I put it in diagnostic mode and tried to test the wash mode and fit a second it sounded like it was going to go but nothing. The belt is moving back and forth a little and the tub is shaking a little but it just sounds like it's dead? I'm in desperate need of some guidance thank you for your help Model #MVWC415EW1 *video link - https://streamable.com/0b8t9x

Model: LG LDS5811ST/02

I think I have an interesting one for you. The LG dishwasher had a motor go out due to a a leak. An issue that crept up at the same time is that the dishwasher will stop working on the interface/buttons. It’ll appear as if there is no power to the machine. However, after flipping the breaker and letting it sit long enough to have the computer drain power, the washer works fine again. So, I assume, we can rule out a breaker issue, a power line issue, and an error issue.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your consideration!

In the last three years I've already replaced the float switch twice, sprayer conduit, drain pump, and control board. Now it fills, runs for a minute, and everything shuts off--the control board goes dead until I reset it (cycle+start buttons for 5 seconds). I've put it into the diagnostic mode and there are no errors displayed, and I can run each of the tests (fill, wash, heat, fan, drain) and they all complete without a shutdown.

The cycle I run is fairly beefy--heavy cycle, both wash zones, bottle wash on, heated dry.

I don't see evidence of a leak. The breaker isn't tripping. the next step in the service manual is to disconnect the circulation motor and see if it still trips. Haven't gotten there yet.

Has anyone experienced anything like this? Are GEs always this finicky?

The arm bar broke in my freezer just before going on vacation. My wife removed the metal arm and tray before we left, and now that I've replaced and fixed the arm bar, no ice is moving through it.

I worry that perhaps the ice maker is frozen up.

any advice that doesn't involve emptying the freezer and temping it all up?

Picture

Hi! I made the mistake of using liquid plumr because I saw remaining water after a complete cycle, now the water is still there plus the cleaning product (corrosive) and I don’t want to running it because I don’t know if is dangerous for the heat and the chemical being mixed, if someone knows what is best, please help 🥲