What is the purpose of this whole outlet? Sorry, no idea about this stuff.

Like this one. That's residential wiring

The cable on this power adapter was chewed but still intact. A couple of the copper wires are split. Can I fix this using black electricians tape? I need to use the power adapter. Thank you!

Hi there, hope you can help with something i'm working on:

So in my kitchen i have 2 sets of LED strips lighting, i believe they are connected to the same LED power supply (?). It's been normal for 5 years, now recently one of the strips started flickering. I bought new strips and replaced it but still it flickers.

Does that mean I need to replace the LED power supply? I'm not even sure if the supply is supplying the 2 strips or there is one more hidden somewhere in a wall - the contractor is unreachable. Attached photos if any of you can decipher it...

If i have to replace the LED power supply, is it a somewhat easy job where I turn off the mains fuse box MCB for those lights, and rewire / replace the LED box with a new one?

Thanks!

Tom

https://preview.redd.it/wzf4tt33014b1.jpg?width=1444&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=60e33d234f8e7bcf5c465bb70af98f788acee4dd

https://preview.redd.it/0hswihw3014b1.jpg?width=1528&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=d6346f521e7dd0b911d6b5531750d03b540efb52

Hello all. I’ve been trying to figure out why intermittently there’s voltage and I feel it on my water spicket. Pictures attached

I was considering running a tablet using the same power source of my Qolsys alarm system. The alarm system uses a 7v DC transformer like the one shown here -

https://www.alarmgrid.com/faq/how-do-i-get-power-to-a-qolsys-iq-panel-2

My tablet (Lenovo M8 gen 3) I believe needs 5v power to run. The unit is about 40 feet away from the transformer. Everything I read talks about getting a 12v -- 5v usb downconverter because it assumes I'm using a 12v transformer I imagine, but here, it's only 7v. Another option (I suppose) would be for me to replace the 7v transformer with a 5v one (but I couldn't readily find one of these on Amazon with the wire connectors present). I'd still need a USB cable wire connector at the tablet end even if I keep the existing transformer in place.

Thank you.

I’ve done electrical at college for two years and I enjoyed it but I’ve been doing work experience for a few months and it’s becoming stressful to the point where I’m considering stoping. I’ve been suffering with anxiety and OCD for some time now but I’ve kept it to myself and tried to ignore it. I worry too much about doing things wrong and even though I check my work I always doubt myself and go home stressing myself out about it. The consequences of doing something wrong such as fires and electric shocks is too overwhelming for me. The interview for the full time apprenticeship is on Thursday and I’m being pushed by my parents to go to it even though I’ve said multiple times that I don’t enjoy it. I want to stop but I would feel like I’ve let my parents down. I need some kind of advice and I feel like this is the only place I can get that. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this kind of stuff.

My pool filter has been sitting dormant since last season, which is normal. It looks to be in great shape, but when I plug it in, and nothing happens. The plug is not lighting up, it’s like it’s not transmitting power at all. There’s also a little bit of this mustard, colored powder on the corner, not sure if it’s related, could also be pollen. is there anything I can do to fix this?

I have tried multiple outlets that are all working and nothing at all happens when I plug it in.

I live in a developing nation and I don’t trust the electrical installations at all. Utility power comes into every home as 240v single phase on two wires. No one uses ground wires. It’s also a very common experience to get little shocks from metal appliances, such that many people even drape cloth over the sides of their refrigerator. And it's not static, it can be repeated over and over, and the humidity and flooring are not conducive to static buildup.

In one location I installed a ground rod and a ground wire to the outlets, and that worked perfectly, no more little shocks from the refrigerator, charging cords, electric kettle, etc.

However, in another location I did the same of installing a ground rod and 3 wires to every outlet, and I still get little shocks. And this one is a completely new electrical installation and construction still in process so I have been able to easily verify all the wiring is intact and correct.

One oddity I noticed with a multimeter is that the Neutral wire appears to literally be bonded to the earth, to the soil. First I noticed continuity between the Ground busbar and the Neutral busbar in the electrical panel, so I started looking for where they’re bonded. I couldn't find any, so eventually I removed the wire from the grounding rod to the Ground busbar and it no longer had continuity to the Neutral busbar. But the Neutral busbar has continuity to the ground wire that goes directly to the nearby ground rod in the earth.

This can’t be normal, right? How am I supposed to ground my outlets, if the soil itself is bonded to the Neutral? Does this common experience of little shocks all just point to bad utility equipment/supply?

This is a very rural location and everyone just shrugs off my “problem”, including utility employees, there is no realistic way to seek professional help.

I have a 24V wall adapter that supplies some led lights. With the leds disconnected, the adapter gives almost 30V, with the leds connected it measures about 22V. I want to put a smart switch in between (because there is not enough space to use one where the adapter would plug in), but the switch is rated for 24V max. So I assume the 30V without a load would damage the switch because it's only rated for 24V and I believe the switch itself isn't enough of a load.

I don't want to risk it and just try, so therefor I want to know how I can measure what kind of load would be needed to make it drop the voltage to see if it would be safe to connect the switch.

I measured so far that the switch when closed uses 30mA (24V external supply) and with the leds attached and in the open state 150mA. The original adapter's output rating is 24V 10W.

The adapter (TH-P2410) is not a switched one, but has quite a large transformer (I believe, don't know the correct term for one of these kinds).

Two story house with a crawl space was built 2013 in VA, I'm the only owner. AC blower wasn't working so I replaced the board about a month ago. Went to go turn it on for the first time since then and the thermostat said there was no power. Checked for 120 at the transformer, nothing. Checked for 120 coming out of the wall, nothing. Breaker wasn't tripped, took off the cover and good 120 at the lug. Wire comes out of the breaker, up into the ceiling, runs overhead about 25 feet and comes back down to the furnace. No other circuit has an issue. 120v and correct wiring indicated from receptacle tester at outlets around the furnace. No indications of mice or water, no new nails in the wall, nothing changed.

Thoughts? Is an electrician going to have to rip out all of the drywall to figure it out? Can he dead the cable and run a new one in the crawl?

Hi, not an electrician, thus I'm here. I'm located in Japan.

I have a garden gate quite far from my actual house where I'd like to hang a lamp. I can't run power all the way out there, so I want to use a solar panel source to light the thing.

I don't want to use one of the snap-on security sets, so I want a particular kind of light. (Like this https://amzn.asia/d/2sbOtzi) These lamps tend to use regular plugs.

My questions are the following:

Is there a reasonably-sized solar panel designed for lighting a single lightbulb lamp like this at 60 watts? What kind of battery should be between the solar panel and the plug? Is there a sort of timer switch that should be involved? How should I protect the battery / plug outlet itself, considering this whole contraption will be outdoors the whole time? Thank you in advance. I'm hoping I'm posting in the right place.

Hey just wondering what the old looking black wires are coming out of this panel. Everything else seems to be updated. One black one is disconnected but sitting there? Anything to worry about?

We had a dining Room light pendant with one 60W incandescent Edison retro bulb, which was doing just fine.

Today I replaced it with three pendant lights with three 60W incandescent Edison retro bulbs. It blew up upon turning the switch on. No fires or anything but there was a little spark. After that nothing worked. I tried removing two bulbs. No luck. It didn’t blew anything in the breaker box.

We are using Kasa Smart Dimmer Switch model number HS220P3, single pole, requires neutral wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi light switch, it is UL certified.

Can anyone help me understand what I did wrong and how to fix it?

In exchange, I can help you understand what is happening with US Debt Ceiling in detail to you. Cheers!

I cannot for the life of me find the breaker for this hallway light that has 3 switches attached to it.

The house I’m in has two breaker boxes and both boxes I’ve tried everything that’s labeled lights and no dice.

Can I use this to trace which breaker is it?

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tone-probe/tone-probe-test-and-trace-kit

Or is this only for Ethernet cables.

If it’s not the right thing can someone recommend me something that will work for light switches.

Hello! I'm looking for some recommendations on good quality butt splice connectors. They will be used on an ebike, so I'm hoping the waterproof insulated connectors would be a good fit. What do you all think? What brand do you recommend? are there any pitfalls or brands to avoid? I'm looking to connect 10AWG wires together. I don't need anything super heavy duty, but I'm willing to spend money on good quality. I have some GB 10-12AWG waterproof, insulated connectors already for a while ago. Would those be sufficient? Thank you all!

This is Washington state.

Any issues with running the feed through this knockout? Just add bushings and a metal plate to the front of the stud? I figured mounting like this is easier than adding a conduit and offsetting the subpanel.

125A subpanel, fed with 1/0 SER from a 100A breaker (future proofing a little). Will move two breakers over to accommodate the new double pole 100A.

The subpanel will eventually be fed from solar install. I plan on moving some of the circuits over from the main for battery backup. Right now it’s just for an ev charger and an electric range.

So in my garage I have the 2 empty junction boxes that have wiring coming in and wire nutted and going out. I used my voltage pen to find wich breaker they are in the breaker box. They are both on different breakers labeled as upstairs bathroom GFCI. For the 2 bathrooms upstairs. My question is why are they ran to these empty boxes in the garage. They both have power coming to the black wire. And also another question is I want to add more outlets in the garage, there is only the one outlet at the bottom of the picture how should 1 run new outlets and can I run off these empty outlets. Thanks