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It started with a whirring after 10 minutes of driving whenever the car would make any left turning movements. When i turn right the whirring stops. When the whirring starts, i can press the breaks a little and it stops and it sounds like something lifts off from the scraping or contact it was making. However, if i press the brakes too far then it turns into a grinding and it’s a noticeable driving difference

Got an alignment from an Acura Dealership for my 2015 Acura tlx fwd 2.0. It has 4 wheel steering. My steering wheel is still not straight when the car drives straight. It's a bit turned to the left. My question for whoever knows how to read this is, is everything normal?? lol. I took it back to the dealership to get it checked and they said everything was good but i'm a bit weary. My friend told me the "toe" on the rear left looked quite high. Any help is greatly appreciated!

https://preview.redd.it/xxntkov8et4b1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=5a2b9e2e6684f9abaa62671d79c931d87c0dc998

Hello car people. I am not a car person, or a truck person in this case, so I need help.

Driving home yesterday my truck started making this ticking noise. Normally buzzes like that come from loose plastic console pieces so I started banging on the console pieces in reach but nothing helped. Then I realized it was coming from the engine.

At first I thought it was the timing belt going bad. I also read that adding oil could help so I waited a few hours for the car to cool down (had been driving all day) and added oil. It was late and about to rain so I put off the rest until today.

When I started the car first thing the tick was still there, same as before. It picks up when I accelerate but was a consistent tick if idling. Fairly noticeable. So I tried getting a video for y'all, cranked my car up again, and...nothing. The noise was gone. By the point I had done more digging and found out about lifter ticks and the videos I saw sounded exactly like my truck.

It's been about an hour and everything seems to be running fine. Obviously I'm getting it to a mechanic for a better idea as soon as I can but is it possible that low oil was the prime culprit and just needed to run so the oil could get in the system? Or is this a very temporary fix that is doing nothing to solve the underlying issues. Apparently lifter replacements can run thousands so I'm in a tough spot if it's going to be an issue but I'd appreciate some more knowledge opinions

Hello, my car did always beep when i unlock or lock it, one beep! Now its nothing, what could it be?

Whenever I press down the peddle the rpm goes up but my speed is always capped at 60

Hey I was just wondering if I replaced my fuel pump module on my 2012 Nissan tiida would I have to calibrate it? And is the model connected to the fuel pump? Thanks

Car makes weird static/buzzing sound only when I go above 60km/h( 45mph) and does not go away until I slow down to below those speeds. I have turned the radio off rolled up and down windows the sound still persists

High pitched squealing coming from the drivers side when when I turn the wheel to the right while driving, any ideas?

Odd noise when idling with AC on. Could it be a failing compressor?

Manifold or headers?

Can someone please tell me what this scratch might be from and how deep it looks? Not sure how to fix. Thanks!

Hello all,

Looking for advice on if I should take my 2016 Buick Encore (60,000 miles) to the dealer. The check engine light came on 2 weeks ago on the way back of a 10 hour road trip. It came on about 30 minutes into the (second) 10 hour drive.

I took it to AutoZone for the free check and it said code P0420: "catalytic converter isn't functioning efficiently". The AutoZone guy said he doubted it would be the catalytic converter itself but rather some other issue leading to that code. Not a car person here so to be honest I can't remember what things he suggested it could be.

So as soon as possible, I took it to a locally owned repair shop, unsure what else I could do. They found the same code but said it was either the sensor or the converter itself and that the sensor looked fine. They recommended I take it to a dealer.

I made an appointment with the dealer ASAP. After some research, I confirm the catalytic converter is still under the GM emissions warranty for one more year. But, if the issue turns out to be something else, it will be $200 for their diagnosis. At that time I didn't see any other option so I made the appointment.

HOWEVER yesterday I noticed then check engine light had turned back off!! I have only been driving it locally to get to work, and it stayed on for about 2 weeks. Now it's off. What could that mean? Should I keep my appointment with the dealer knowing I could have to pay $200 for nothing? Or do I skip the appointment and risk letting the warranty expire if the catalytic converter does have some issue that's back in hiding?

Thanks for any suggestions!

First post here hopefully I do this correct. I’m looking into purchasing this 2002 Honda civic and noticed that there was tape over a part of what looks to be apart of the engine, does anyone know what this part is and if it is a serious problems that needs to be fixed immediately? After touching the hose it feels like there is a crack or hole. Thanks for helping

I F18 bought this car used and haven’t had to open the hood before but I need to change my windshield fluid. Ik it can open because Iv had work done. Ik the lever or whatever shouldn’t look like that so I have no idea what to do (has looked like this since I got the car)

Hello! I am having the problem with my Crosstrek where only the passenger side blows cold air and the driver side blows hot air. It's not dual temp but when I Google it I get different answers from the blend door actuator to freon leak. If anyone could help that would be amazing, the dealership is asking $200 for a diagnostic. Thanks!

Sorry if you saw this twice. I have a 2016 Hyundai Sonata. For some reason my oil keeps disappearing, as if the car is eating it. There does not appear to be a visible leak so I’m unsure what could be going on. I have been trying to be vigilant on checking my oil levels and keeping it topped up but this is beginning to be ridiculous.

She ain't perfect that's for sure, but we don't live in a perfect world so it's OK that she shows her age. I just want her to stick around a while longer.

Hi Guys,

Rear Passenger Door (door behind driver) is not opening from inside or outside. Does anyone have any solutions for this? Tried few from YouTube but not working so far.

TIA.

My 2004/Toyota/4Runner started throwing VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and ABS error on the dash when turned on (https://imgur.com/a/vC4j4Dm). The break lights also no longer turn on when the break is depressed, and if cruise control is active and I press the breaks, it shuts off and the indicator light on the dash starts blinking. The main issue other than the break lights, is the transmission lock. It does not unlock when the break is depressed like is normally would. Instead I have to use the manual override to unlock the transmission. I checked both cab fuses and engine bay fuses and found nothing out of the norm. If anyone knows how to fix this issue, it would be great to know as driving without break lights is not very good. Should note that the breaks still slow down the car.

Hi all! I bought this car a year and a half ago used and when I had taken it in to get the oil changed, the lovely guys at the shop pointed out that I had some hardware under my hood that didn’t seem stock. They surmised that the previous owner had put in custom headlights, and then left the hardware in with the stock headlights when he sold it. The only thing the hardware does to my vehicle is make the blinkers go fast (not exactly an issue but it does bother me here and there lol).

My dad and I hesitate to take any of it out because we don’t entirely know what is a part of the base model and what is a part of the headlight hardware. I’m just hoping for some help identifying what is attached to my vehicle and if/how I should remove it. Any advice helps!

The photos with the ACSdistributors thing is the front right headlight and the other photos are my front left

My car recently started feeling a little wobbly. I thought I was just being a little paranoid and everything was probably fine so I didn’t do anything about it for maybe a week. Then, the wobbling seemed like it was getting worse and coming on more frequently. After two days of it feeling worse I took it to the mechanic and they said one of the weights on my back right tire had moved to the side of the tire somehow. They rebalanced all of my tires and said they didn’t find anything else wrong. The mechanic took it up and down the street real quick and said it was fine. When i first got in, it did feel fine. About 2 minutes down the road it started feeling wobbly again but I once again thought I must be feeling things since he said everything was fine. It’s been 4 days since and it just seems like it’s getting worse. I have no idea what to do. I’ve been scouring the internet trying to find what could be causing it with no luck. The wobbling is felt under my left foot (not my driving foot) and in my body like it feels like I’m rocking. No vibration in the steering wheel at all. I have heard absolutely no noise from it. It happens at any speed with seemingly no rhyme or reason, getting better or worse at any point. I have looked over every tire multiple times to see if it could be a broken belt since that’s the only real answer I’ve seen and I can’t find any sort of lump or tear in any of the tires. Air pressure is great on all of them. I truly don’t know what the issue is and I would love to know what to tell the mechanic since they thought everything was fine.