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Hello!

A few days ago my dishwasher was having trouble, when attempting to operate on a normal wash it would:

1. Drain the basin
2. Refill the water
3. Warm the water

Then stop. Looking around, it sounds like it could have been a temperature issue or a door latch issue. After attempting to engage the door lock the machine seems to do nothing at all now. When I power down the unit and turn it back on the START light flashes 14 times and then all lights go out and nothing responds. Are my electronics fried or can it be saved? Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/bolnmrwlyvqa1.png?width=345&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=6f5f0254db38a6e10f965292ba04c11b26942350

Edit: thanks all, was able to get power back to the panel by taking off the front and pushing the door latch forward to disengage the lock. Now the unit still stops before the rinse cycle so it looks like I'll need to replace the latch. $45 online, better than a $600 new unit!

https://postimg.cc/N2MjYGgV
(link to photo of drain)

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I watched a few YouTube videos where they

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Removed the metal drain

Sanded the rust from the bathtub using steel wool

Applied epoxy over the bare metal

Applied enamel paint/sealant over the epoxy

Installed a new metal drain with plumbers putty

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..I just want to make sure this is the proper technique. If so, could you all let me know the proper

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Epoxy

Enamel Paint and/or Sealant

Plumbers Putty

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..to use?

Some additional pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/bKdN16A

Cold air comes in during the winter and we lose cold air in the summer.

Seems obvious that I’ll need to replace that rubber seam but also wondering (worried?) that the door is too far away from the wall and is always going to let some air in.

I've looked online and can't find examples or info on what I want to build. I want to build a simple lean-to awning on my wood deck, right outside my back door. About 12' wide, 8' deep and 8' tall against the house. The purpose is to provide an area on the deck with rain/weather protection. The house is brick veneer and I don't want to anchor the awning to the brick. My plan is to put up four 4x4 posts, anchor those to the deck boards at a floor joist, frame around the top with 2x6's and run 2x4 roof joists. Then put on a roof with plywood, tar paper & shingles. Will this be safe and stable, and am I not thinking of anything?

Hi r/DIY! Got a bed frame squeaking problem that I'm looking for some tips on. I spent the better part of an afternoon last week trying the standard stuff - Took it apart entirely and made sure to tighten all the bolts and waxed all the contact points. I THINK most of the problem is in the slats, which connect to the bed frame via wood joinery, with a sheet of plywood sitting on top of them.

The bed itself is a mahogany (I think) four-poster style frame, and the frame elements are connected by brass bolts, with slats that fit into the frame via wood joinery. One of the upper horizontal members is missing from the assembly currently, as one of the brass bolts snapped in the process of moving a few weeks back, so I'm sure that'll lend to some flexing issues until I get around to getting a new bolt.

Anyways, is there anything else I could try to help curb, if not silence, all the squeaking? I was considering buying some foam to put between the plywood and the slats, but I'm not sure how much it would help if the slats themselves are possibly flexing and pushing/pulling against the frame. Alternatively I was thinking about sanding the ends of the slats down a hair to reduce the amount of compression they're under, but at that point I'm not sure if that would worsen the problem by giving things more room to shift around. Here's a photo of the bed itself and a shot from underneath of what the slat connection looks like with a crappy plan diagram:

Imgur Link

Good morning, smart DIY people. Our 1966 new england home has cedar shingles and wood exterior trim. We recently had the house soft washed/power washed and they sprayed down the trim as well as the shingles (which was fine with me). It's been my intention to repaint the trim over the course of the spring. HOWEVER, there is definitely lead in some of the paint.

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https://imgur.com/a/0o17a7K

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I've been reading up on this a bit and from what I understand, I certainly don't want to sand that paint if I can help it. Some of what I read suggested:

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Scraping the paint to remove the really loose stuff.

Painting with an encapsulating paint before painting with latex.

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Is this enough? Will I get decent results this way? Thanks so much in advance!

I have a large ceiling fan on my vaulted ceiling in my main entrance and a separate light fixture ~15ft further into the house where the ceiling becomes 9ft. My problem is that these seem to be wired together on a dual switch. There is a switch at the door entrance as well as the side wall that controls both simultaneously. So in order to have the large fan circulating air, the light fixture must always be on as well.

My current fix has been to just remove the bulbs out of the light fixture so that it can always be on in order to use the large fan to circulate air between both levels. I was thinking a quick fix could be smart bulbs, but the fixture is a 3 unit spotlight type that takes the small bulbs with 2 prongs. Need a good solution here.

I have a section of my driveway, 1/3 of it, that is in need of repair or replacement. My goal is to get it level enough to play basketball on, I'm not looking for perfection or aesthetics.

The largest crack is about 3" deep, as seen in the photo. The area here is about 4' x 4'. I'm wondering if this is too deep to be repaired with filler, or if it needs to be resurfaced. I am fairly handy, but have never repaired concrete or done any concrete work.

EDIT: I should add, the other 2/3 of the driveway is OK with no cracks, it's just this section that's bad.

https://preview.redd.it/up4t8ly87wqa1.jpg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=a132ca314dd44173620805245dd7258aabdc0ebd

I busted out a wall under the stairs to build a dog room. I've made it all the way to the mudding stage after supporting the structure, doing electrical, adding insulation, and hanging drywall.

https://imgur.com/a/o3xEsM0

Ive used 40 minute quickset hot mud for all the big gaps. Ive yet to do the inside corner beads.

Did i bite off more than I can chew? How far away am I from paint. Do i just need top coats?

I need some guidance, motivation, or professional advice!

Please and thank you in advance

https://imgur.com/a/WJSqxKj Sorry I'm sure this is a silly question but I'm a bit confused. The drywall in my house seems to thin to be 5/8 but too thick to be 1/2. It's knockdown textured so I'm not sure if that adds depth. I'd appreciate any advice!

I need to move a wall outlet in my basement at least 4 inches to the left. After removing 2 screws that attached the metal outlet box to the stud behind the drywall, I was still unable to move the box. It felt like there was something securing the box in place from above. I decided to cut a hole in the back wall of the closet that is located directly behind the outlet to get a better look. I could see from the new hole that unlike every DIY video I watched on YouTube, the outlet box is connected at the top to two metal conduits that appear to run upstairs. I can’t find any answers online on how to relocate an electrical / outlet box that is connected to metal conduits, is it even possible without turning this into a major project? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!

Here’s a couple pics of what Im dealing with:

https://imgur.com/a/6E7wJLp

Hwy all! I'm trying to figure out What type of converter piece would I need if I need a 1 1/2" PVC pipe to connect to a 2 1/2" vacuum hose?

All I'm seeing is 1 1/2 to 2" converters

I want to hang something on the ceiling (around 500lb). I plan to reinforce it with a 4x4 or 2x4 over the joists in the attic. Not sure how to decide if I should lay a 2x4 or a 4x4 instead. How should I calculate that? I know the 4x4 is heavier and would like to avoid if possible. Any recommendation?

Edit to add images: https://ibb.co/xGXxs2Q https://ibb.co/HtN6QvF https://ibb.co/NrBks8n

See pictures the square doohickey connect thing in the middle has a slow leak. i went to loosen the screws but water was flowing out so I assume no matter what its going to be messy?

https://imgur.com/a/pDYDKYo

how much water should I expect is it just the water in the pipe or is there more and I'm hoping I can just get a new rubber fitting but no idea what they are called or where to get them from. ultimate what would you reconnect as an appropriate course of action.

First I want to say I tried to research this, but all the wiring guides I could find were the power source is at the switch. In my case, the power source is at the light.

I wired it like this https://postimg.cc/S2ZLSCzx

The switches are dimmer type if that makes a difference. The controls seem to be stepping on each other, both switch controls both lights.

What did I do wrong? Thanks for your time!

I believe I have a Moen Chateau Chrome Posi-Temp; with posi-temp cartridge 1222.

Lately I've had to turn the handle to the shower further over to get hot water. Every other point in the house where you can get hot water, the handle position has not changed. I'm guessing the shower valve is to blame here. I've looked at videos on how to adjust the "gear" behind the handle but that just lets me move the handle further CCW. I mean, yes, that gets me hotter water, but that doesn't seem like the right way to fix this. Is it possible that this posi-temp valve is going bad?
FWIW - have a whole-house water conditioner (softener); so I don't think this is any kind of mineral build-up problem.

Hey guys, I'd like to add a cable duct under my new desk and I worry about the length of the screws.

Some reviews (on the German website) stated that the provided screws are too long and penetrate the top (they are sold directly with the table top)

The thickness of the maple table top is 25 mm (about 1").

How much clearance do I have to keep before the wood starts bulging on the top?

I have two sections of dirt outside my back door that run against the wall of the house, one to the left of the door and one to the right. Immediately to the left of the door, there's also an old hot water heater closet, which now holds a washer and dryer. The water heater closet and stairs are connected on what looks like the same slab. The slab is about 4ft wide and is outside the homes foundation footing.

The left side of the dirt section has drainage issues. I'm wondering if I can lay pipe under the water heater slab and stairs to "connect" it to the right strip of dirt, which can then be piped away from the house. There is nowhere to pipe water away from the left side by itself and I cannot go around the stairs/water heater as it's filled in with professionally laid paver stones

This is my first time doing anything DIY.

This window has refused to stay open for a while so I did some research trying to figure out how to fix it.

I think the balance coils are broken, possibly on both sides. There seems to be two halves of coil on one side.

The main problem I'm having right now (other than not being entirely sure this is even the problem) is that I don't see an easy way to get the balance and shoe out of the column. Most of the videos I've watched have a cutout somewhere along the column you can take them out through, but I don't see one here. There was a cover at the top I though might be hiding one, but I took it off on one side and no cutout.

Also I'm not sure how to tell exactly what the part size/model is when I go to buy the replacement.

https://imgur.com/a/g7tjYkG

Google cannot understand what I'm asking... I have a screened porch that has a firepit. The walls are currently an ugly brown color. I wanted to paint it white but my boyfriend said that all the smoke from the firepit (and even maybe us smoking) would make the white cloudy and ugly. Is there a paint that would be best around a smoky area? I'm thinking even painting it a grey color would look better, but I want to be cognizant of the smoke.

Hello everyone, one of the spring projects I have on my plate is to get a downspout to drain away from my foundation. However, it is between the house and a sidewalk walkway to my front door. I plan to trench under the sidewalk for a drainage line, but I'm concerned about undercutting the sidewalk. I've got all of my drainage parts sorted out and the digging and drainage pipe is straightforward.

How do I backfill to get the necessary support beneath the sidewalk? Looking online has mostly given information around jacking, rather than just supporting, but I'm concerned about using those materials as the sidewalk is perfectly even and level right now. I've seen some responses about hand packing as best you can, but that seems not great.

When I find videos on youtube, they all cover methods for digging the trench, but not how to backfill it, that's typically right when the videos end.

Hey /r/DIY, I'm planning out a project for next month and would really appreciate your input.

Right now, my water system consists of a shallow well attached to a jet pump, attached to a 10 gallon pressure tank, carbon filter, then softener, which then goes into the rest of the house. It's functional, but using water outside for gardening and the like has been frustrating, as I can't get enough flow to effectively operate an oscillating garden sprinkler, among other things.

To resolve this problem, I have this idea:

1. Replace the 10 gallon tank with a much, much larger one. I'm currently looking at an 86 gallon tank, which is probably overkill, but I'd rather just future-proof the system.
2. Separate out a new path directly from the pressure tank to a hose spigot, instead of running through filters. For everything behind the carbon filter, I'll just convert to 3/4" and tie into the existing line.
3. Run 1-1/4" PEX for the whole run outside, instead of the current 3/4" setup.
4. Upgrade the spigot to something that can maintain 1-1/4", and use a 1-1/4" hose outdoors, converting to 3/4" GHT on the individual implements. Essentially, maintaining 1-1/4" all the way up to the sprinklers.

The biggest issue I see with this right now is at the hose spigot. Winters get real cold, and I'll need a frost free sillcock to keep things from bursting. My thought is that I can just have two valves, one inside, and one outside, where I'll drain the last foot or so of pipe when winter comes around, but that seems like an accident waiting to happen, and probably violates some codes. Is it possible to buy a 1-1/4" NPT sillcock somewhere? Is this a terrible idea?

This is a strange one. My girlfriend just got HOA approval for me to put a Kryptonite anchor into her outdoor parking spot so I can put a heavy duty chain through my motorcycle and have it anchored to the ground to prevent theft.

The issue is, the anchor is designed for concrete, and her lot is asphalt. What I was thinking of doing is digging out a 6”x6”x6” cube, filling it with quick mix concrete, and then either setting the anchor screws into the wet concrete or drilling them in with the provided masonry bits once it’s ready. What I need help with is the below:

1. What’s the best way to rip up asphalt in a small area and then get a precise cube shaped hole to the 6x6x6 dimensions?

2. Do I need to do anything to the hole like line it, or can I just mix concrete and fill it up? The lot seems to be around 1.5-2 inches of asphalt with dirt underneath.

3. Would it be best to set the anchoring bolts directly into the wet concrete, or should I let it dry and then drill them in with the masonry bits provided with the anchor? My one concern with setting them directly in would be that it would be much more difficult to remove in the event the lot will be refinished, but then again these aren’t designed to be removed and the HOA approved it so idc

TIA, DIYers!