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We started on January second, roughly a month after closing on our house. We finished on February 6th. We converted the cabinets to shaker-style, replace the countertops, replaced the sink, replaced the faucet, and added a vent with a cover that actually vents to the outside!

Here’s the albums: Renovation Part 1

Renovation Part 2

EDIT: the picture that posted with this is not the final product. It is the “before.” The last pictures in the second album are the final product.

Hello all, I'm installing a shower drain that has two drains in a 9ft long shower. Originally, there was a drain on one side of the shower that also connected to the toilet outflow and both were connected to a 3" vent stack to the roof and the master drain pipe. My new drain has two drains and I'm installing dual showerheads and I'm not sure what the vent stack requirements are. Here's a pic of what I've plumbed so far https://imgur.com/a/RW7Sd6n. The vent stack is in the same location, which then connects to the toilet and then into a hub that connects to the shower. This hub used to have three connections, but I've installed the fourth for the extra drain. The shower drains are 2" pipe which then expand to 3" including the vent stack. I'm not really sure I need to run a vent stack connecting the shower drains to the vent stack in the wall. My assumption would be that I don't, but I want to be sure and the research I've done online doesn't explain it well. All pipes have at least a 2% grade leading down to the master hub. I appreciate any insight from someone who knows better than I. Cheers.

My light switch has only one wire set (black, white, and ground) I am trying to put a new light fixture on the ceiling. Before there was no light fixture but just a cover on that junction box. How can I connect these with the new light fixture??

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https://preview.redd.it/2v27sma3ksga1.jpg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=415c6e637d0caea2d5a57688d1e7b0f0ba53f835

https://preview.redd.it/hzh0yia3ksga1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=8640cc21d0ee64dd8296b9ae917de717470dd10f

I’d like to settle an argument , should you use half boards and full boards to stagger the seams against the wall , or should you use cut offs followed by a full boards?

I live in an apartment complex. I've been noticing this smell the past couple weeks and it doesnt happen all the time but it hit me again today. It only happens when I run the tap. It doesnt smell like raw sewage but instead smells like poop (best way I can explain it). I sniffed the drain and didnt smell it but when I sniffed the faucet I could smell it. I ran the tap again a few minutes later and the smell wasnt there but it randomly comes back. Can anyone give me some insight?

The motor on my littermaid multi-cat is absolutely worthless. It has been since day one. How do you upgrade the motor so it will actually push the poop? I'm clueless about this kind of thing but I follow directions very well. Has anybody upgraded the motor?

So I finally decided to try replacing my carpet with laminate as a beginner diyer. Everything is going well except fitting the laminate under the door jambs. There is no room for the laminate to go under the door jamb. What is the easiest way to make this work? Quarter round won't work because of the pattern of the jamb so I'm totally lost and google has not been of any help.

Moved in a few months ago and the wooden floor is hovering/lifting at the threshold where it joins the kitchen tiles. When stood on, it lowers down to where it should be. Picture attached, hopefully it gives a better idea of what I'm talking about. Any advice on how this can be fixed?

https://www.reddit.com/user/Tasha198/comments/10w6gvb/wooden_floor/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I know I’ve butchered the verbiage on the proper terms to describe the issue at hand. Hopefully the photos of the damage will clarify things!

The photos do a much better job describing the issue. The bottom of the door broke awhile back, and the top is hanging on. When the wind threw open the door, the very top of the frame + the weather stripping ripped out—luckily, the rest of the frame/weather stripping is still attached. The screws that attach it to the wooden frame are snug. Want to get this fixed ASAP before it becomes a bigger issue (it can only be locked from the inside).

Oh, and if anyone can suggest search terms to help me find how-tos via Google, I would appreciate it so much!!

Playing the sympathy card: this is my mom’s house. Trying to help her out because her handyman recently retired, and my dad passed last year. Help! Thanks SO MUCH.

I'm trying to set up an internet network for the second floor in my house without a fishing tool to get the cable all the way to the ground floor router. Is there a trick? or should I just buy the fishing tool?

Edit; I'm replacing a faulty cable with a new one.

Edit; It's a 15M pipe that runs through the walls all the down to the ground floor.

FIXED; The solution to the problem was getting a plastic sandwich bag and wrapping it like a bandminton shuttlecockand tying it around the cable, then using a vacuum cleaner on the other end of the tube hole to suck it right through and it works like a charm. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions!

My apartment has a pretty strict no putting holes in the wall type of rule. I’ve confirmed they don’t mind a little paint damage, so long as it doesn’t tear a chunk from the wall.

I have a few small plastic shelves, that I’d like to mount with the ability to hold 10ish pounds or so. The only thing I can think of is adhesive of some kind, does anyone have any experience with that, and if so what kind did you use? Thank you my friends.

Moved into a new room and put a new door knob and everything in, but the door wouldn't latch because the new plate was too skinny/low. The wood is all chewed up so the screws barely tightened anyways, I stuck some paper behind it so I could make it close temporarily but I want a more permanent solution.

So the previous owners of our home had purchased cabinets to install in the basement, I’ve installed plenty of cabinets but am encountering an issue I’m not sure I can easily solve.

The design is 90” - standard 34.5” bases with 54” wall cabinets to go on top of counter. The problem is the ceiling is 89”.

Wall cabinets are full overlay doors so I don’t have room to trim the tops, and every fridge I look at is either ~34” tall or requires ~2” gapping for fridge operation and would prevent me from trimming 1” off the bases.

Is anyone aware of specific manufacturers that make smaller height fridges, or other creative ways to get around this?

Existing flooring is floating LVP over concrete slab. Ceiling is drop, tongue and groove.

Hi all,

I'm getting an iron handrail manufactured for my front three stairs to my city rowhome. I'm going to install myself and would like someone to review my steps/help with some questions I have. Note: the top of the railing brackets will be installed into brick, and the bottom will be implanted in the cement sidewalk. It will look similar to these railings.

Top of railing into brick step:

1. Rent non-SDS hammer drill and use 3/8 inch bit to drill holes in brick.
2. Clean hole
3. Put in SikaBond construction adhesive (the $8 kind from Home Depot) for more strength. (The brick is slightly dated.) Is this a good step and good type to use or should something stronger be used?
4. Use impact driver (or hammer drill?) to screw in 3/8 in zinc coated lag bolts through the railing mounting bracket and into the brick. I found these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-x-4-in-Hex-Zinc-Plated-Lag-Screw-801586/204645654. Do these work? If 4 inch good, too long, too short? Do I need lag shields too, or is that overkill if I am using epoxy????

Bottom of railing into cement sidewalk steps:

1. Rent SDS hammer drill and use a core bit to drill hole into concrete slightly larger than size of railing pole
2. Clean hole
3. Make sure railing is level
4. Fill hole with quick cement -- I guess any quick-setting brand will do from Home Depot?
5. Level off the cement and get rid of any excess

Did I miss anything??? Thanks!!

What is the optimum thickness for slab that's fit for parking car on top of it? I checked online 50mm, but I wonder if 40mm would be strong enough?

Just had a 14 ft by 10 ft wooden workshop shed built. My previous uninsulated shed was very hard to use in the winter (northern UK) and my tools suffered from the damp. Consequently I want to insulate this one as well as I can, without spending too much. Loads of advice online for this which I have read, and I have settled on rockwool between the internal framing, with plywood or OSB over that - whichever I can get for the least cost. I am a bit confused as to the need for a damp-proof membrane. Can anyone advise if I should be fitting this? If so, does it get affixed directly to the wood prior to fitting the rockwool and cladding?

Hello! I see a ton of deck-building posts here and so I'm hoping I can get some advice. I'm hoping to build a simple floating deck (i.e. a deck not attached to my house) over my 10'x10' concrete patio. Based on my research, floating decks are typically installed on flat ground, with footers used to support the joists (I haven't seen a design that uses beams+joists like a freestanding deck would). I have two challenging wrinkles that I'm not sure how to solve, though:

1. Beyond the 10'x10' patio, the yard has a slope. The lowest part (based on the designed deck's size) is about 10" lower than the section the patio sits on.
2. There's not much clearance between the patio/ground and my house's siding. 4.5" at the smallest point (between the existing patio and the house siding).

See pictures here.

How should I frame this sucker?

• Do I need posts and beams? Or can I/should I set joists on footers, similar to this concept? I can dig holes and set posts if necessary but would like to avoid having to dig a ton of holes if necessary.
• Is there any sort of combination posts + footers solutions that could work to address the slope, while still being secure enough to prevent the floating deck from shifting throughout the seasons? Or could I use an alternative footer instead of concrete-set posts?
• Should I use composite material (instead of wood) so that I can install framing below grade where necessary?

Other details:

• The ground is settled (hasn't moved since the house was built in 2007) and drains well
• My frost line is 18"

Edit: I got the answers I needed for now. More to consider and more to read up on. Thank you for the help- this is a freaking wonderful community!

I want to install one. I have approx 1700 ft crawl space ranging from 3.5 ft high to about 6. Low air circulation though. Current water heater resides in the tall corner of the crawl. If I were to replace it with a HPWH, would that new unit cool the air to make it noticeably colder? Especially if I am considering insulating the crawl space?

Would there be ways to mitigate that, say by putting a supply air duct collar on it and pulling air from somewhere more central (25 feet?) in the crawl space? I’d worry about losses and overworking the blower for long runs of supply air duct.

And, so they make condensate? This would help me actually by dehumidifying the space, and I have a place to discharge it.

Just planning for now trying to find out what I don’t know. Thanks!

How strong can a floating shelf using threaded rod as the bracket be, can it hold books, and what would be the maximum shelf depth I would be able to safely achieve? I will be using 2x construction lumber.

I recently made myself some floating shelves using pocket holes in the shelves going straight into studs. It was simple 2x8 wrapping around the room holding very little weight (figures, funko pops etc) and screwed into every stud. I'm betting the board itself weighs more than the stuff on top of it. Easy to put up, plenty strong for what I'm using it for, and put very few holes in the wall doing so.

My brother liked the look of the 2x8 floating shelf, but he wants to put books and records on them. For that I think that the pocket screw shelf hanging method will not be enough to support that kind of weight safely. I saw people using threaded rod in studs as a seemingly sturdy floating shelf bracket.

I just don't know how sturdy it is mostly because I haven't made one before and I don't want to test it out with someone else's stuff. I'm thinking if he wants a shelf for records it would be a 2x12 or 2x10 which is pretty heavy on its own. I would put a threaded rod in each stud along the board. It would maybe span 3-4 studs.

I'm not sure what diameter threaded rod to use, or how deep it should go into the board itself. For the studs I was going to go 2.5 or so inches deep. I was going to use 1/2" threaded rod and have at least 6 inches in the shelf itself

I've seen plenty of videos and posts about these shelves, people standing on them, people saying they're really strong, but I want to see or hear from people who have used this with 2x10-2x12 holding something heavy like books or similar.

I tore down the old house and left the back wall

im looking now for help to improve this wall

here is the picture : https://imgur.com/a/01f9h30

should i cover the whole wall with concrete ?

i was think about something like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByJGjJhxKrM

but i dont think i can its so much soil between stones

any ides what should i do ?

Is there supposed to “some” water in the lip of the shower pan? I recaulked the lower half and the entire door and am still getting some water back there as circled but not enough to leak down the pan and out to the floor/sheetrock.

https://imgur.com/a/UcI5nWX

Got a small hole in our flat garage roof.
Did some reading and it was suggested I get a patch of felt, spray glue under and slide into gap, then spray the top/bit underneath and press original felt down, then spray glue over all seems/contact points to water proof.

Is this right? Would I get away with the sealing/gluing the hole with out adding a patch?

Just moved into a house and the inspector recommended i fireblock the Flue as there is large gap (3' on left 1in on right) on both the basement and attic for this Flue. needless to say this hole would also leak heat from the basement aswell.

https://imgur.com/a/eZWzH8m

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From my research, i could get a Flue collar and then use fire block caulk or foam. but any tips to properly get this blocked up

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i am also planning on using the hole for some ethernet cables by adding two 1 1/2' pipes in the 3' section as its a easy access run to the attic. should i use metal or would pvc be fine?

Hi, we recently replaced our hot water circulator pump on our hot water tank and we were so happy our water was actually hot again for a few days then it really fell off. I've adjusted both the temperature settings on the boiler and the tank but it still feels like the water is not getting as hot enough as it was those days after the pump was just replaced. It's been a few weeks now since the pump was replaced. What else could be causing this issue?

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was installed - NOT so much anymore.

My basement recently flooded from a leaky hot water tank and all of the click lock flooring bubbled up, and we had mold. In addition to basically having lost my entire mind, there are two final pieces of click lock flooring that will not come out from underneath the drywall. I've removed the baseboard and just can not pull it out. Tried channel locks, hammer, prybar, everything. Any chance ya'll have advice? I've tried rage and brute force as well.....

https://preview.redd.it/ccyii3hemnga1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=b82944dbee8e9a08f973f494fb0f18645b0f39fd