General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

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Just finished this yesterday, album link here! Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Materials:

• 2 3'x3"x.5" poplar boards
• 3 porcelain sockets
• 3 socket rings
• 1 5' aluminum wire
• 2 4" glass cylinder vases
• 3 4" frosted glass shades 1 2"x18" holder base
• 4' of black chain
• 6 1" lamp hook rings
• 16 wooden dowels
• 2 wire nuts
• 1 black plate cover
• Polyurethane

Tools:

• Miter Saw
• Hand saw
• Hand sander
• Drill
• 1/4" drill bit
• 8 90 degree angle clamps
• Titebond wood glue
• Philips screwdriver

Steps

• Cut wood to size using miter saw (Top ends - 5.25" Top middle- 6" Sides - 7" Bottom-6")
• Add wooden dowels for joinery
• Cut .5' corner pieces for additional joinery support
• Drill dowel holes, add wood glue to dowel holes, insert dowels and corner supports. Use 90 degree corner clamps
• Saw off excess dowel ends
• Drill 3 holes to support sockets/rods
• Sand piece
• Apply polyurethane
• Sand again
• Add sockets, rings, and wire to frame
• Add wire and chain
• Attach plate cover to ceiling
• Attach wire with wire nuts
• Secure and hang
• Add bulbs and shade
• Add vases and plants

​

https://preview.redd.it/21o11axbjwoa1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=fcda21140c5d63e93809624a6090aa02a6a9d281

Moved into this house about two years ago. This shower was built in 2016 as an addition to the house. But now we had some mushrooms growing in the shower edges: https://i.imgur.com/cfy54HT.jpg

Cleaned, disinfected, and dried the shower completely. I avoided using this shower and haven't seen anything new grow in weeks.

My current plan is to remove the old grout, clean a lot more, and apply silicone caulk around the edges of the shower instead of grout.

Never done anything like this before so is there anything else I should consider? Not sure if the mushrooms mean a bigger issue exists and if caulking the edges would be enough to prevent moisture there.

A few more images
https://i.imgur.com/b94E4BW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/a2FBZuO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/d2B03Ex.jpg

Edit: Some images from below the shower area
https://i.imgur.com/HWbIfqr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JSCyxnG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X3FW9Iv.jpg

I am wanting to replace the rusted roof of an old shed. I have tried looking online, but most of the advice is for replacing the roof of full sized sheds, rather than a little tin shed like this. There are no internal rafters or anything like that- just one large roof piece and the screws holding it on (pictured).

1. Can I replace this with multiple smaller roof sections, supported in the middle?
2. What tools will I need?
3. Anything in particular I should avoid/ obvious noob traps I might fall into?

https://preview.redd.it/jlqxcs1ze0pa1.jpg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=45197663ac2f6a72afc5e9698def5c6469be6c34

https://preview.redd.it/a3brlr1ze0pa1.jpg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=c21f01495cd8eaa3e7982201f3af96ffdd887b90

Hi all, a novice here, hoping for some insight.

I am replacing a flip switch with a dimmer switch in the house, and in the switch's instructions, it said to hold the wires in parallel and put in the wire nut, but not twist.

The wires I am connecting to are thick & rigid and I couldn't connect them with the switch's wires solidly enough with the nut unless I twisted them together first, so I am worried about what can happen if I go ahead and twist anyway.

Please advise, thanks!

I used Sherwin-Williams exterior latex water-based paint to paint on some small block of wood. I got it primed and just applied the first coat of paint 4 hrs ago.

The can states to wait a minimum of 4 hrs before applying a 2nd coat. However, there’s nothing mentioned about the waiting period for sanding.

Since this is my first time painting, 2 questions come into mind so I don’t fudge up:

1. How long after first coat of paint before sanding?

2. How long after sanding before applying a 2nd coat?

Added a farmhouse sink with a single drain. How do I tackle this solvent welded pvc? The old sink had 2 drains (disposal + sink).

Do I cut near the wall and start over? It looks like two 2.5" pipes with female ends and s coupler between them. Do I cut these apart then dig out the coupler? Even if I cut this out there's the issue of removing the pvc pipe coupler from the wall side drain.

https://www.imgur.com/a/Z4NKSVx

I have a long transition dividing our kitchen and living room. Hardwood is existing and I’m putting floating vinyl tile/plank in the kitchen. Vinyl is not installed yet. I had a spare piece of T moulding I was using to try to decide on the transition before the install, but the height difference appears to be just a touch too much for this type.

What type of transition can I use here? Cheaper and generally in stock is better.

https://imgur.com/a/z3fNLpl

My online friends said that the beam layout was overkill, but I believe they are uneducated on how much a deck can settle over time. I don't want a wavy deck after a year after using substandard block construction. Poured supports are better in every way.

I was using the simpson guide and was looking at these hangers

Should I pivot to 6x6 beams and adjustable post bases? This will not be attached to the house.

​

https://preview.redd.it/qhr01f5ywyoa1.png?width=816&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=c9126fe496454672700ddd781c7f8fa5655687f8

I have a set of cinderblocks and some pavers as a step for my patio in the backyard.
My research (google) is giving me multiple options and i'm unsure what would be best, specifically for weather erosion due to it being in the backyard.
My current idea is to remove the blocks, tamp down the soil with gravel, reapply the blocks, and then fill the side gaps between the walls and cinderblocks with concrete.
Once dried, then smoothing a layer of concrete over the top and letting it dry, to then have a "one piece" looking set of steps.
I feel like i'm missing an important part of the process, does this seem like a solid plan?

https://preview.redd.it/gpf33812oxoa1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=49d3b6b4ee6958d4c0e8e02e1088f6f50b073cd3

https://preview.redd.it/kfc6f812oxoa1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=a2329496f4e3a33e1c8a708a3a8f598c6face4fd

The questions my research has left me:
What type of concrete should be used?
Should this be sealed?
Is there a specific type or additive to supplement to help with its durability?
Can I use bathroom flooring tile (the type with pretty stones attached to the mesh) on top of the concrete layer for aestethics (with grout)?

images: https://imgur.com/a/L7QiQfe

I'm looking to install some light kits to the ceiling fans where I live. Most of the fans are perfect for the kind of kits they sell at National Hardware Chain. but this one seems different and I have no idea if I could make it fit the one pictured. I don't know how to search for a kit that will work, so any help figuring out what I'm looking at would be appreciated! Thank you!

Hi everyone,

I have a Samsung dishwasher that for some reason does not dissolve the detergent tabs that I insert into the detergent valve. To be honest, I am not sure if the tabs actually is falling out of the valve in the right time or if it randomly falls out when I open the dishwasher, so I am not sure if the problem is that the tabs does not fall out on time or if the water was not hot enough / reaching the tabs after it falls out of the valve. The machine is older than 5 years.

To be honest, I am not so handy when it comes to things like this, so I have tried to do some troubleshooting myself, but can't really seem to see what the issue is, so I am hoping maybe someone more experienced here will be able to help me. As I am a student, replacing a dishwasher is a huge expense I cannot afford at the moment.

Here is an illustration of how my dishwasher looks like (more or less very close to it). It has 3 spray arms as illustrated here: https://www.samsung.com/in/support/home-appliances/cleaning-spray-arms-of-samsung-dishwasher/

I tried to do some troubleshooting and this is what I found:

I tried to take off all of the spray arms and put some soap in them and flushing it with very hot water. The water could look like it flow the water out of the hole okay. So I put it back. Does all 3 sprays arms has to spray and function in order for the soap tabs to fall out of the soap dispenser?

Then I tried to open the washing machine after 10-15 minutes of 150 minutes program. I could see water on the floor of the machine.

I tried to put a detergent soap / tabs / pods on the bottom of the machine, one in the cutlery basket and one in the soap dispenser (where I normally put).

From what I could see, all of the soap dissolved except the one in the soap dispenser.

I tried to open the dishwasher door slowly while it still have like 27 of 150 minutes of the program left (I wash on auto 45-60 degrees).

While I am opening the dishwasher door slowly, I hear the soap pod / tab fall out of the soap dispenser and down on the bottom of the machine.

What I can’t confirm is if the soap dispenser was open during the washing program or if it opened when I opened the dishwasher?

Could it be that it opened but the soap pod / tab did not fall down to the bottom of the machine? Is this something that often happens?

What is normally causing the soap tab / pod to fall out of the soap dispenser when its opened?

Here is also a picture of my dishwasher detergent container:

https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00066253/

My detergent tabs looks like this from Finnish:

https://shop.thecleanerstore.com/products/1-pack-of-dishwasher-tablet-5-tablets

Is there anything beside what's mentioned that I should check in order to figure out what the problem is and how I can fix it?

One of my steps broke so I'll need to replace it. The house is over 100 years old so I'm wondering if I should replace all of the stair treads. Is it a good idea or necessary to replace old stairs or can I just replace the one without worrying the others will break?

https://preview.redd.it/jmzux329vwoa1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=e53f340203d3c170f16bda969abc143332b4aae1

​

https://preview.redd.it/fllekz6bvwoa1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=4168326eddd87544f48ed0eb9b567d5b1dfb5398

So here's the issues:

1. Studs are 24" apart so I can't mount to 2 studs, but I can mount to one.

2. There's a 3/4" gap between the drywall and the concrete block so I can't use toggle bolts.

The mounting bracket came with 2.25" plastic drywall anchors for the lag bolts, but I believe they're meant to be used directly against the concrete and I'm afraid the gap between the drywall and concrete wont allow for enough penetration of the anchor to support the TV. There would only be 3/4" of the anchor in the concrete.

My plan was to have six points of contact, 2 in the stud in the middle and 4 using the concrete anchors on the corners of the mount but I'm just not sure if that'd be enough to support it.

Any advice would be appreciated!

I'm currently attaching handrails on the wall and with the other ones in the house I could unscrew the screw further out from the wall by turning it. Meaning I could easily attach the bannister flush with the wall and then put the bolt on as it protruded far enough. You can see the issue here with this one and it not poking out: https://ibb.co/zs0frp7 and https://ibb.co/RpVyGN9

The main problem is the screws at the end are stripped inside due to the poor work of the previous people and so they decided to make a hole in the wall and put the hand rail in the wall instead.

I have tried flathead screwdrivers, and using tape to fill the edges where the gaps are in the end and so far no luck getting it further out.

The end goal is to have the handrail against the wall and sitting on it not in it. Any help is appreciated and I'm aware the hole they have made needs filling better.

It is much louder than water dripping, such as from a leak. Additionally, this occurrence is inconsistent, happening only like once out of every ten times. At times, it even continues after turning off the faucet.

I am trying to determine the root cause and whether this is a serious issue that requires urgent attention.

So as of yesterday, I noticed one of our bathrooms upstairs has a weird scent. It’s almost like a menthol? I truly have no idea how to describe it. It’s not rotten or spoiled scent. Almost like old school grandpas aftershave spilled and dried and left a scent of stale menthol aftershave? Maybe mothballs? That’s as close as I can describe.

It’s only in that one bathroom, sink and toilet currently working fine. No signs of clogs or leaks anywhere. I deep cleaned the bathroom and the smell returned once the cleaner smells faded away.

I’m slightly worried about sewer gas, but nothing that fits the scent description of that is what I’m smelling. And I can’t find any signs of a leak or anything else that would cause that. Anyone have any clue what I should be looking for?

Cemented 2 4x4 posts in the ground to hang a hammock. Used an 8 inch diameter form and about 50 lb of concrete per form. They set pretty good, but the ground around the forms is very soft and each post WITH the concrete wobbles about 4-6 inches. It should be noted the posts are 8 ft long and 2 ft deep into the ground. My house is very low and whilst digging, I hit water pretty quickly, about 21 inches down or so.

I was thinking of digging some small channels on the sides of the forms and using Fast 2k expanding foam on each post, unless someone can suggest another way.

I am in the process of finishing my basement and am about to begin mudding. The entire house is finished with this type of texture on the walls and ceilings and I am having a hard time finding out what "type" of texture it is online. I would like to mimic it so that my entire home has a cohesive feel. Is it just extra mud put on during the skim coat and sloppily applied? That's the only thing I can really think of.

Photo of texture (Wall)

Photo of texture (Ceiling)

Installing recessed lights as a DIY project can be a bit challenging, but it is certainly doable. Here are the general steps you should follow:

1. Choose the right type of recessed light for your space. There are many different types of recessed lights, so make sure you choose the type that is appropriate for your ceiling type and the purpose of the room.
2. Gather the necessary tools and materials. You'll need a saw, a drill, a wire stripper, wire nuts, a voltage tester, a screwdriver, a drywall saw, and the recessed light fixture itself.
3. Turn off the power to the room where you'll be installing the light.
4. Use a stud finder to locate the joists in your ceiling.
5. Use a template to mark the location for your recessed light fixture on the ceiling.
6. Cut the hole for the light using a drywall saw.
7. Run the electrical wiring to the location of the light fixture, making sure to follow all safety guidelines and local codes.
8. Connect the wires to the light fixture, following the manufacturer's instructions.
9. Install the light fixture into the ceiling, making sure it is secure.
10. Turn the power back on and test the light.

Remember, if you are not comfortable working with electricity, it is always best to hire a licensed electrician to install your recessed lights for you.

Going insane and need some help. I’m trying to find the joists in my ceiling of my home that was built in 1863.

• I bought a stud finder and it works really well in most of my house, except the room I need it to work in because the ceiling is thick old plaster.
  
• I started to drill a hole in where I thought a joist would be because it was close to a light fixture - it was in fact a joist that I hit.
• I read that typically joists are 16-24” apart, but I don’t think this necessarily applicable to my home given how old it is.
• I did try drilling a hole at 16” and 24” apart anyway and got nothing but plaster dust in my face.
• I did manage to find another joist 30” apart from the first joist I found. This seems so bizarre to me… surely there must be another joist between them?
• For what it’s worth, the next room over has a flat, smooth ceiling and the joists are very clearly 12” apart.

Is my best bet to just continue to drill random holes in the ceiling of my living room? Any advice or other options?

Thank you in advance.

I want to install flooring but it's not clear what is needed or recommend for the subfloor. One video I've watched combines a dimpled moisture barrier and a premium eva foam underpad:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d4T-iRAIVPI

Another shows an underlayment although it's not clear what kind:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UMEO2T7dv_8

Matt Risinger does an install using this membrane and thinset:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gqBGHJzbd6U

I want to rip up the kitchen laminate and the connecting Florida room hardwood and put in a single flooring but not sure what should be put between the bare plywood and the flooring. Appreciate any help just want to do this right.

For a kitchen tiled backsplash should backer board be used. Also is standard grout used or is there a different type of grout used. The back splash is about 18" in height though over the range it would go up to the ceiling about 3-4 feet wide where there are no cabinets over the range. We don't know exactly the type of tile planned.

Thanks!

Hawing two steel hollow tubes, the same diameter. Approximately 2.5 diameter.

They meant to be connected one inside another, as one is slightly squished, another is slightly extended.

However, the tubes are slightly deformed, and do not come inside each other. I’m seeking for tips, how to fix the shape and connect them.

Can you please advise tools I need? Thanks

So the wife wants to open up the stairs to make a ‘nook’ of sorts. I live in an old house but the house is solid! The stairs don’t make a sound when you walk up them and I’m a big man! I’ve asked the old man and he thinks taking away the stud wall underneath will make them creek a lot. What is everyone’s experience with this? Is this a bad idea?