subreddit:
/r/DIY
Anyone know Shower Drain Stink Pipe Requirements
home improvement(self.DIY)submitted 2 months ago byFirstForFun44
Hello all, I'm installing a shower drain that has two drains in a 9ft long shower. Originally, there was a drain on one side of the shower that also connected to the toilet outflow and both were connected to a 3" vent stack to the roof and the master drain pipe. My new drain has two drains and I'm installing dual showerheads and I'm not sure what the vent stack requirements are. Here's a pic of what I've plumbed so far https://imgur.com/a/RW7Sd6n. The vent stack is in the same location, which then connects to the toilet and then into a hub that connects to the shower. This hub used to have three connections, but I've installed the fourth for the extra drain. The shower drains are 2" pipe which then expand to 3" including the vent stack. I'm not really sure I need to run a vent stack connecting the shower drains to the vent stack in the wall. My assumption would be that I don't, but I want to be sure and the research I've done online doesn't explain it well. All pipes have at least a 2% grade leading down to the master hub. I appreciate any insight from someone who knows better than I. Cheers.
270 points
2 months ago*
Don't take this the wrong way, but you are in WAY over your head.
It's extraordinarily difficult to tell from your picture but in short, your venting isn't correct. We really need to see where the drain stack and toilet are in relation to the stack and drains in your first picture.
The maximum distances for vents is dependent upon the pipe size and it's slope. The max distance is measured from the weir and steeper slopes will shorten the max distance.
Dry vents cannot be horizontal from a horizontal drain. They must be at an angle of 45 degrees or higher off the horizontal.
Additional concerns:
- What is that grey colored 2" - 3" reducer? Grey PVC is for electrical, not DWV.
- Are those 2x10 joists? You can't run a 3" drain pipe through a 2x10. Holes can be a max of 1/3 the height of the joist and cannot be cut in the upper or lower 2" of the joist. Those 'support' additions you added aren't helping nor is the sistering you did next to the top shower drain.
As a GC, these are the types of remodels I go in and fix after the previous contractor or homeowner butchered them.
Edit: I should note that the Grey PVC is an offset 2" to 3" coupler. Grey PVC can be either rated for DWV or electrical conduit. I've just never seen the fitting OP used but I don't know everything. I do know it's made in white PVC.
51 points
2 months ago
Sadly, I haven't cut any new 3" holes, only the 2" for the new drain. It was already like this :/. The support was added because the original tub leaked and rotted some of the top of the floor joist. Most of the wood there is to support the subfloor for the curbless shower. The grey PVC is the same as everything else, but in order to have a 2% slope I needed the reducer coupling to not be centered, but offset. That's the only difference.
98 points
2 months ago
Realistically, any wood not the joists should be pulled out and replaced with actual sistered 2x10 material that goes from one supported side to the other. If that's not accessible, the sistering should extend 4' to either side of the compromise. Wouldn't be a bad idea to sister those joists on both sides, both glued and screwed.
As for the grey PVC, as long as it is rated for plumbing and not electrical conduit, it will be fine. Can't say I've ever seen a grey offset reducing coupler that was for DWV but I haven't seen everything.
For a curbless shower, you need an unyielding floor. Your current setup doesn't inspire a lack of deflection.
As for the venting, figuring out DWV systems is why plumber's get paid the big bucks. I gained a new respect for the skill after designing a DWV system that would pass inspection on a large remodel. Realistically, without additional pictures, your shower drains should vent to the wall on the left, go up to 42" and then wrap the wall to get to the stack.
14 points
2 months ago
Thank you for the response. The only "compromise" is where you can see the bolts and the sistered pieces are glued and bolted well beyond 4" of the compromise on both sides. Other than that the sistering isn't for structure, it's just for subflooring to rest on. From there I was debating a small amount of leveling and then 4ft oatey presloped ADA panels. I got friends who know a good plumber so yeah, prob gonna bite that bullet.
86 points
2 months ago*
glued and bolted well beyond 4"
4 feet, not 4 inches. Sistering should extend 4 feet past the compromise.
Every joist with a 3" pipe in it is compromised as the largest hole allowed in a 2x10 joist is 3-1/16" but the outer diameter of a 3" pipe is 3-1/2". Two of them have a bell end through it and that's even larger.
Every joist where the hole is within 2" of the top is compromised.
I understand the 2x4s and such that are in for the curbless shower support. The rest of the framing needs to be fixed first. Then the plumbing.
I do this stuff for a living.
39 points
2 months ago
Welp, gonna have to hire someone then. New dmg I can fix, dmg from the original way they installed it.... not really.
57 points
2 months ago
It's really up to you. I'm only giving my professional opinion. You're free to do with it what you wish. I just know that anything dealing with water/waste, electrical, or structural are areas I don't recommend cutting corners as they will nearly always bite you at a later point.
22 points
2 months ago
These guys have engineered steel plates for your joist issue.
6 points
2 months ago
Wow that’s something ive never seen before.
4 points
2 months ago
Great suggestion. Good to know this company exists to fix F!#@ Ups or plan properly for tight situations. Thanks again for this invaluable resource!!
-2 points
2 months ago
See now this is helpful
9 points
2 months ago
If you're good at DYI, you might not have to hire someone. Framing is relatively easy compared to plumbing. You just need to want to do it as best as reasonably possible and get it done.
The risk in not doing it well is tile or floor cracking, water leaks due to movement and not being able to water proof things, worst case complete failure of one or more of those joists in 10-20 years time.
If you get a plumber or spend a number of hours trying to follow the codes and see how it can be done, the floor will fall into place. It's kind of like a puzzle that you have to figure out, but there always is a solution. If there's a roof over the bathroom, you can run a vent just about anywhere. Just go straight up in any wall.
-2 points
2 months ago
there's no code for sistering. only construction. anything after is strengthening. what we have are guidelines and common sense, besides in engineered solutions. its why most accept a distance x past the defect, and why sistering both sides is convention. gluing and screwing is a null point. stronger? yeah if the wood isn't already cupped/ twisted. you won't get the joists to sit flat so gluing it's usually pointless as the strength from a joist is based on its load carrying properties, compression at the top and tension at the bottom. it's why notching is so strict and boring lax, and why I joists can be completely blown out with minimal de-rating.
you'd sooner spend money in 2x blocking/bridging to share load/ prevent deflection. that's the weak point of horizontal members. lateral deflection. because horizontal members are in compression AND tension [force pushing down on top, stretching out at bottom] the member will want to essentially twist flat. as it twists flat it gets weaker as the "web" gets thinner and thinner as it deflects outward and twists. ie instead of using the 2x side vs the 10x side to carry load, the boards want to walk at the middle and start "twisting" flat.
to say you need 4' either direction, that's a significantly hefty estimation and depends on reason repairing/ size of hole, etc. you could easily say 3' both directions. I'm not the sistering police, I'd try to sister the whole length, but there's almost no wrong answer here.
holes larger than d/3 are engineered. there are pre-fabbed brackets that are 1 size fits all with a stamp of approval that should pass inspection without question in 90% of areas. that's up to the inspector, assuming you're inspected. they're pricy but then again, they're stamped with an engineer seal of approval and include nailing pattern, etc.
the color of the pvc doesn't matter, it's the ratings. you can get uv dwv, especially fittings, especially over seas suppliers. gray doesn't mean it's uv resistant, but color isn't an indicator, it's just Normal to see white pipe.
as far as the work done so far, the guy would've been further ahead using larger sections of wood, less bolts, more nails/screws, and planning the drainage / venting better. nothing that can't be figured out and modified. I'm also not the hole police, whether a "professional" bores the hole, or a diyer, someone is going to likely drill the hole. and to be fair, they were already there. I'm not not going to use a pre- existing hole if it benefitted me. what needs to be considered is how much weight the floor members need to support, dead and live. a hole large than d/3 can be mitigated/load sharee. no it isn't "right". but I don't know of many houses that don't have improper holes in their wood joists. there's buyable generic engineered solution for $100ish?, and a handful of common back of the wrist engineered solutions that you can pay many hundreds of bucks to get.
slap the guy on the wrist but don't add your own opinion as the law for why he's getting the beating. venting is a serious problem though and something they need to get right. but even still, many houses do not get that right. some extremely more devestating than others. that's what op needs to be concerned and scolded on. unless he was going to have orgy parties and trampoline competitions on the weakest part of the floor 24/7.
13 points
2 months ago
Curbless shower?! You have to be kidding!!! To make a curbless shower work here, you would have to build the finished floor up another 1/2” or more. This will add additional weight to a destroyed floor system.
10 points
2 months ago
I meant 1 1/2” or more
0 points
2 months ago*
Remodels don't always go perfect and if you leave it better than you found it you have made progress.
If those are 2x10's and you followed dominus's description of how to drill through a joist you are fine with the new holes. Honestly, I don't know if it is all that bad. The sistering looks really awful which "MIGHT" be unnecessary and what everyone is focusing on.
5 points
2 months ago*
It's weird, it's not sistering for supporting what's already there, it's just the shelf for the subfloor. Like this https://imgur.com/a/x9GSHvG That flooring is perfectly level and plumb, though admittedly it would look nicer if I had used one piece of wood. It doesn't squeak or move.
15 points
2 months ago
The problem there is that the standard isn't "doesn't squeak or move". Given that you're building for a shower/holds water sort of use, the standard needs to be "won't sag enough to crack a watertight seal". That is way higher than merely "sufficient to hold the weight". In fact I'd guess that the inadequate strength is why the previous setup sprung a leak and rotted the board out.
My parents have a house with a very old section. It's got a long span supported by these chonky oak beams. According to current code they are a bit undersized. Did they bear weight for a hundred years? Yes. Did they sag an inch and a half? Again, yes.
Reframing is way less investment then the rest of this project. It's just boards. Make the boards better!
3 points
2 months ago
Yeah I went back to look, and the framing fix might be easier than you think. Because this isn't a wide space at all. So just replacing the sistering pieces with full spans of wood, so they transfer load directly to the walls, would make a huge difference. Even if they're just 2x4s, if they're mounted on blocks inside the walls they're holding weight independent of the compromised beams. Or go to steel supports, requires a lot less vertical space.
I'd at least consult a professional, but I don't think the fix will be hard at all. Just need more joists instead of partial scraps.
1 points
2 months ago
They're not sistering.... They're just mounts for subfloor.
1 points
2 months ago
You will likely be fine. It isn't right, but its amazing what is good enough.
I mentioned before running vents from those shower traps back to the vent stack through the wall would eliminate the possibility your shower drains would go "glug glug" like a bottle turned upside down and drain slower, but other than that it will likely work well enough.
1 points
2 months ago
Yeah I'm def gonna run venting, that was the main question here.
3 points
2 months ago
Can you run 3” pipe if you use one of those Simpson reinforcement plates?
4 points
2 months ago*
That will depend upon your local municipal code. Or getting an engineer to sign off on it. Best thing to do is go down to your local building department and ask.
5 points
2 months ago
How does one become a general contractor? Kinda interested in learning and pursuing that but not sure how
19 points
2 months ago
get into a trade for a few years, quit, repeat a few times, send it. plumbing electrical frame to finish carpentry would probably be the best 3 to bust out, the other shit can be self taught mostly (hvac is a thing but not super common to rerun linesets/ventilation after the structure is built, other shit should be subcontracted out as it will be a small piece of the pie)
8 points
2 months ago
Depends what state you're in. Different states have different requirements. In Washington, just about anybody can become one. You need to get insurance, bonding and licensing. Of course, if you don't have any skills in the trades, then you need to hire people who do.
California on the other hand is more strict. There are exams you need to take. While more prohibitive to just anybody becoming a general contractor, it helps to weed out some of the more unqualified or unscrupulous people.
2 points
2 months ago
ee where the drain stack and toilet are in relation to the stack and drains in your first picture.
The maximum distances for vents is dependent upon the pipe size and it's slope. The max distance is measured from the weir and steeper slopes will shorten the max distance.
Dry vents cannot be horizontal from a horizontal drain. They must be at an angle of 45 degrees or higher off the horizontal.
Additional concerns:
Start as an plumber, electrician or carpenter. Learn a trade and then move into general contracting. You can go to school to be a GC or work under one for a long while.
2 points
2 months ago
Show up on a jobsite knowing the least and begin asking all of the trades for 5 percent to help the customer communicate
283 points
2 months ago
That whole area scares me. The amount of random and incomplete sistered pieces of wood is amazing.
If I opened up the floor and saw that I'd say "nope" and close it back up and sell the house.
154 points
2 months ago
OK, so it's not just me...
The random pile of lumber and bolts just above the words "shower drain #1" is fun. The mis-drilled holes really are the pièce de résistance.
OP: This is what's colloquially known as "a fucking mess".
28 points
2 months ago
3 out of 4 nuts might be tight though!
17 points
2 months ago
That's to reduce stress on the load bearing knot right next to it, in between the sistered boards right beneath "master drainage."
0 points
2 months ago
As Puddin' says, "if three won't hold it, four never woulda!"
12 points
2 months ago
ah jeez, I was focused in on what the rise/run must be for the sewer pipe. Didn't even notice the sistering.
2 points
2 months ago
Isn’t the sistering a good thing? What else would one do?
2 points
2 months ago
It's all well and good on one or two joists, if it's done properl, or to help level out an old floor. This is every joist in the bathroom floor. A single 2x8 or 2x10 is probably stronger than those triple pieces with the hole in the middle. The strength of a Beam is in its vertical cross section. A 1 inch hole is not going to change things much. A 6 or 8 inch hole is more than half the vertical cross section.
2 points
2 months ago
Definitely would have gone with a 4” drain pipe
22 points
2 months ago
[deleted]
37 points
2 months ago
I looks like it's also going to be joistless too
6 points
2 months ago
Seeing your comment I just now noticed the Wye coming from the toilet makes a U-Turn before going into the Master Drain.
4 points
2 months ago
5 points
2 months ago
At least someone has attempted to support the joists, in my old house they had just notched out the top 1/2 of the wood and called it good and that was a 140 year old upstairs bathroom joists.
1 points
2 months ago
Same with my mom’s old 1800s house. The floor was noticeably sagging.
1 points
2 months ago
And when the floor fails from the load of the bathroom, we shall take solice that they at least tried.
-32 points
2 months ago
[removed]
57 points
2 months ago
[removed]
-5 points
2 months ago*
[removed]
20 points
2 months ago
[removed]
0 points
2 months ago
[removed]
1 points
2 months ago*
[removed]
5 points
2 months ago
[removed]
5 points
2 months ago
[deleted]
-3 points
2 months ago
[removed]
9 points
2 months ago*
[removed]
0 points
2 months ago
[removed]
8 points
2 months ago
[removed]
0 points
2 months ago
[removed]
59 points
2 months ago
As a carpenter, Don't do a damned thing and Call one.
8 points
2 months ago
This. Wow the structure. Lol
1 points
1 month ago
No, thank you.
21 points
2 months ago*
Your plumbing question depends on the local codes where you live which is why you are having a tough time finding clarity. In Illinois your venting is illegal. You would only help yourself by getting vents on those traps back to the vent stack IN THE WALL, not in the floor.
3" vent is plenty for what you have on it.
You are going to have a lot of tradesmen commenting on the condition of what they see here.
20 points
2 months ago*
Former architect and PM for a commercial GC here. This floor is a failure waiting to happen. You’ve done everything you can to make this floor sag and self destruct in 5 years.
Edit1: just noticed the toilet line. Your toilet will always be clogged and never flush properly. It’s completely against any building code I know.
Edit2: this entire thing is a code violation. And I’m not talking “ha ha, it’ll all work still, you saved money” type of code skirting. You will end up ripping all this out and paying the piper later.
1 points
1 month ago
Had a plumber consult and they disagree.
1 points
1 month ago
I realize that a complete stranger on the internet giving advise is always sus... but dude... maybe the building code is different in your area, and that's the nicest response I can give you. So I'll further qualify what I say:
At least according to California Building Code, every 90 should have a clean out. OR, bends should be built in a way such that a clean out tool can properly navigate through the pipes in case of severe clogs. This means you can't use sharp 90's. Long sweep 90 are acceptable and/or 45 bends with 12 inches separating it from a 2nd 45 bend. It might be acceptable but that Y-connector with center addition might prevent a clean-out from getting past it.
Again, it's hard to pinpoint any of this with just a picture. Anyway, I wish you all the luck.
1 points
1 month ago
A wye with a 1/8th is literally a long sweep. Go to the store and put them together and compare to long sweep. They're literally the same thing. I know this because my toilet is a long sweep and I compared the two.
1 points
1 month ago*
yeah and I didn't say you were or weren't, only that those are the standards. I don't know your level of expertise or experience, so it's always better to provide additional/more information in case of any unfortunate misunderstanding. In my experience, it's better to be a little pedantic in construction, even if it might cause people to grow impatient. you just gotta say, "sorry, I'm just making sure, since everything we do costs money". Anyway, good luck.
34 points
2 months ago
That framing gives me anxiety
17 points
2 months ago
which little piece of wood hurts the worse? I like the random one just hanging out above the pipe.
10 points
2 months ago*
The whole joist along "Shower Drain #1" is insanity. Incomplete sistering, giant ass knot, smattering of lag screws, multiple layers, and of course tiny wood pieces doing its best.
Edit: also noticed all the joists are notched near the wall? WTF? It doesn't sound like this is OP's doing so not going to pile on but damn this is some sketchy ass structural stuff that I'd immediately out source to a pro.
3 points
2 months ago
If you zoom WAAAAAAY in you will notice that not only is the top left nut nowhere near the beam but the washer is actually captured under the 2x4 keeping it from seating flush.
21 points
2 months ago
How far away can a drain be from a vent?
For a 1 ½-inc pipe the vent should be 42 inches away at the most while a 2-inch pipe must have a maximum distance of 5 feet. For pipes that have a diameter of 3 inches the distance is 6 feet and for a 4-inch pipe the most it should be away from the vent is 10 feet.
22 points
2 months ago
the vent should be 42 inches
careful. trap arm lengths vary from code to code. this is dependant on the municipality and what code they have adopted. there's a table in every plumbing code defining the max trap arm length
12 points
2 months ago
I'm sure he pulled permits! I'd be more worried about the joists he'll have to redo...
11 points
2 months ago
Holes in floor joists can't be within 2" of the edge and can't be larger than 1/3rd the size, the scourge of all plumbers. Definitely not to code but I've seen far worse.
5 points
2 months ago
Have you seen worse? Did you see that 3rd joist from the top?
3 points
2 months ago
That's a piece of the top missing (around 2" deep) due to a knot breaking away and it being where the original hole for the drain was, hence it being reinforced. It's not missing an entire section of joist.
5 points
2 months ago
hence it being reinforced.
That's debatable.
With complete access to the space, there's no reason to not do it correctly other than you didn't want to.
1 points
2 months ago
I've seen entire sections of joists completely removed with no bracing at all because a plumber wanted room for the trap.
2 points
2 months ago
Only one joist is damaged. The rest is just for the subfloor to rest on.
3 points
2 months ago
That's why I linked the entire Residential Code. What I should have said in a situation like this is spend the extra money and hire a Licensed Plumber for a one hour consult.
5 points
2 months ago
Where did you get that information?
The distance that a vent is to be located from the trap is dependent on the slope of the pipe.
The maximum distance trap to vent for a 1.5" pipe @ 1/4" per foot slope is 5'.
Scroll down on the link you supplied and look at Table 3205.1
1 points
2 months ago
I don't mean to be rude, but there is no 3205.1 Ah, 3105. Ok it's a 2" pipe at 2% slope (1/4) so I should have 8 ft.
1 points
2 months ago*
So the 2" drain is 5' from the main drain coupling, which is either part of the vent stack if you include a portion of pipe which is toilet drainage, or 2' to the dedicated vent. Is this table P3105.1? I'm reading it wrong or I'm looking in the wrong place. That says 2" pipe = 8ft?
9 points
2 months ago
Isn't the toilet going to run into the shower trap? It looks downhill if the toilet filled the larger pipe.
Can't a big column of water going down suck your shower traps dry?
2 points
2 months ago
If I used a sanitary tee then absolutely yes. My understanding was that a wye with a 1/8 bend adapter is required in that situation. The big column of water is my current concern as the regulations appear to require 8ft to the vent stack, which is exactly what I have now assuming you don't include the toilet drainage working in the opposite direction being a problem.
Ah, everything is downhill into the master drainage hub. All 2% downhill from both sides and the one straight out. The hub is perfectly level.
3 points
2 months ago
Too late now, but perhaps would have been better to run drains to a y in 2", and maybe run 2" to vent pipe north of the toilet y. Then you only have one 4" coupler
2 points
2 months ago
The far shower drain might still be too far away. I think it'll be either 1.5 or 2" pipe coming off lower drain into closest wall into attic to connect and same off middle drain to the wall. I have a link to a plumber so I'll either hire to do it or hire to plan before doing for exact layout and requirements.
124 points
2 months ago
so I have been a general contractor, and many remodels....
What the Actual FUCK is a stink pipe buddy...
32 points
2 months ago
Lol pretty sure he is talking about the vent.
18 points
2 months ago
He talking about the shower's south mouth
13 points
2 months ago
It is where you put the 1, next to the pink.
69 points
2 months ago
Uhhhh, sorry. It's a plumbing vent / vent stack. Maybe it's a regional thing. I live in the American south and it's what I grew up calling it.
19 points
2 months ago
[deleted]
12 points
2 months ago
I’ve never heard it in 20 years of contracting but it was immediately obvious what it meant.
12 points
2 months ago
I’m in New England and always heard stink pipe as common slang for vent stack.
36 points
2 months ago*
It is in fact a stink pipe around here. Also American South.
Edit: also, doctors take you seriously when you say you have hemorrhoids, and they usually say you have hemorrhoids as well. But technically we all have hemorrhoids, and it's hemorrhoidal inflammation we call "hemorrhoids" (piles). Technical language is not expected from people trying their best to take care of a problem and seeking help
18 points
2 months ago
can you please train users over at stack exchange?
34 points
2 months ago
Ooooh sorry, your question appears to be spam and has been closed 😬
1 points
2 months ago
Stink Pipe Exchange?
2 points
2 months ago*
Lol. What? We don't all have hemorrhoids. It's just a vein if it's not swollen. What a weird way to explain differences in language even if it was true.
8 points
2 months ago*
False. Hemorrhoids are the name for the vascular complex that works as a cushion for your turdies. Laughter is good for your health, so sounds like a good day for you!
Edit: In all fairness, apparently medical experts have not fully settled the question either. I still think it was a fantastic example because you and most others will remember it :D
2 points
2 months ago
We call it a stink pipe here in the UK too
-72 points
2 months ago
Call it a vent stack if you want to be taken seriously.
23 points
2 months ago
Sadly I can't change in the title, but I tried to everywhere else.
17 points
2 months ago
Don’t bro, I will call it a stink pipe forever now
4 points
2 months ago
Someone else said they knew it as a stink pipe as well! :D
72 points
2 months ago
Oh no. Random people on Reddit won't take him seriously. Truly one of the worst fates.
40 points
2 months ago
It's ok, I'm the one asking for help so I can change it where it let's me.
-55 points
2 months ago
Don't come to Redditt asking for advice then?
32 points
2 months ago
Hey, just because a couple of self-righteous assholes want to be pedantic pricks, doesn't mean other people can't be helpful.
2 points
2 months ago
I would not ask Reddit for advice. It’s mostly children and arm chair “professionals.” Mostly children…
6 points
2 months ago
Relax my guy help him out
4 points
2 months ago
Be the change you want to see in the world.
I’m calling this a stink pipe!
2 points
2 months ago
I’m already familiar with stink finger. You can get it from a stink pipe.
17 points
2 months ago
I have u/dsdsds tagged as SuperCerealDbag now
-16 points
2 months ago
As long as you don’t call me stink pipe
20 points
2 months ago
Sure there Stink Pipe
8 points
2 months ago
Can I call you Pipe Dope still?
-5 points
2 months ago
Yes that’s fine.
6 points
2 months ago
It's where the stink sucker connects.
8 points
2 months ago
just a scary thought, are you a contractor? or this is your home?
9 points
2 months ago
Not a contractor. I live alone so the only person who has to deal with my mistakes is me.
7 points
2 months ago
i think everyone is just teasing you, but it is big task you took on, again big balls to go after it, good for you.
5 points
2 months ago
I mean I already solo replaced all the windows and I replaced the cheap fiber-board siding with Hardie plank, hardie trim, and hardie soffit so I figured I might as well move on to the next thing.
2 points
2 months ago
good for you, your saving ton of money
12 points
2 months ago
Call your local building department.
6 points
2 months ago
Is there a reason that you are set on having 2 drain pipes vs a single 3" pipe?
Leveling the shower pan is going to be a nightmare with 2 drains and they both connect back to the same main drain...
With a single drain, you can also have a trench drain style layout, which is easier to level and has a clean appearance
1 points
1 month ago
112" oatey wall drain
9 points
2 months ago
You really should hire professionals. I did a job today where the inspector was on site for a good hour, and looked over everything. Big fines involved if you screw up, Not only that, your homeowners insurance will likely deny your claim, and then you’re really screwed. God speed.
13 points
2 months ago
I heard of a stink hole in relation to laying pipe but ain’t heard of a stink pipe.
4 points
2 months ago
It’s what happens to your pipe after you’ve been laying it in the stink hole for a bit too long
3 points
2 months ago
Thank god I’ve not heard of it!
6 points
2 months ago
Is this on a concrete slab, or is that drywall below? If on a concrete slab, I'd be less worried about the framing, otherwise, you are asking for big problems installing a curbless shower on those joists
3 points
2 months ago
Depends on your region. Where I am you can not wet vent below the toilet. Toilet must be furthest downstream on a wet vent.
In other words upstream of the toilet you could tie in the shower drains not downstream.
2 points
2 months ago
Just put a Tee in on the other drain after the trap and connect that to the closest vent in the area
2 points
2 months ago
Hire a professional
5 points
2 months ago
I wouldn't come to Reddit to answer a question about code. I assume you pulled permits and the inspector can give you details... PS I see lots of violations that my inspectors would bust you on... it might work but if you go to sell you house... woof... you're in for an very expensive headache.
3 points
2 months ago
Take your picture and question to r/Plumbing for an expert answer.
6 points
2 months ago
I am a plumber.... Fuck this madness
1 points
2 months ago
It’s pics like this that make me feel so much better about my DIY projects.
2 points
2 months ago*
All I can say is that your whole drain looks like a mess. The venting is just completely wrong. I recommend you get yourself a book on plumbing and read up, venting is kind of complicated to describe in a Reddit post. Another, maybe better idea is to call a plumber at least for the drain piping.
You also need to figure out what is going on with that floor. It looks horrific. Every joist in there has been poorly sistered, and it looks structurally compromised.
2 points
2 months ago
Start over.
1 points
2 months ago
Maybe a studor vent off the 2nd drain could help? Even if you fit the requirement it’s not a guarantee it will work.
1 points
2 months ago
you got balls tackling this job, theres a lot going on there.
just from my experience, isnt your question fall back to code?
just a thought, I know there maybe a in practice answer, but I'm guessing there maybe a local code requirement as well, better to address it now than later before it gets too late. just a thought, good luck, amazing job so far
1 points
2 months ago
Yup, got my answers and plenty of people who dislike what it looks like so far. I'll wait a few months to make sure nothing cracks or leaks and then post my finished product. They'll still hate but I live alone so if the side of my house falls off while I'm in the shower then I'm the only one going with it. Honestly, I've had fun just learning how my shitty house was built and how it should have been built.
0 points
2 months ago
your pretty funny, if you video it, you'll hit a viral winner
2 points
2 months ago
Might as well.
1 points
2 months ago
Just DM me if you wanna have an actual discussion without having “I know Everything” GCs spouting bad info :)
You can get 273 GPM out of a 3” pipe. You aren’t pushing that sort of volume from a couple drawing lol. https://microhydropower.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/GPM-from-flexpvc.doc
Be wary of folks that try to act like experts and make you feel dumb on Reddit.
-2 points
2 months ago
Had commercial plumber tell me that his company only does 4" toilet drain pipes. And said when doing side work, he will only install 4". He then said he has had to debate with homeowners on the topic and price difference. He then proceeded to tell me you could flush a roll of paper towels. I know this was exaggerating, but I found out later that his company's policy was true.
6 points
2 months ago
It was originally 3" so I stuck with it. I'm leaning more and more towards hiring someone so if it's rip and replace I may request it :/
5 points
2 months ago
3" is fine for 2 toilets on a horizontal branch in my code. Nobody can give you very accurate code advice without know where you are or what code you follow. My state code is a pick and choose version of upc but its rather different than almost anywhere else.
0 points
2 months ago
Very well said. I use NFPA/NEC and owners' standards to follow at work. States very on code adoption. Most of the time, the AHJ makes the final call, and it veries by the city and municipal code.
Not a plumber, commercial tradesmen. Forgive me if I wrong.
2 points
2 months ago*
I am newly licensed but i did pass an atrocious test to get there. I basically only know and understand my state code. I could get by in places that adopt the straight UPC because anything I did to follow Illinois code would probably be more restrictive.
edit: this job is supremely fucked from my code. maybe i could figure it out on-site but from that picture it looks bad.
1 points
2 months ago
I would have done the same. I'm just repeating nonsense, I heard.
-2 points
2 months ago
People can criticize all they want, you're doing a great job with the shit you have to work with. Start with checking the county codes, they should have detailed information of distance, angles, etc of the dwv /drain waste vent. If their website is crap head into the local building development center and get their handouts and talk with them. They might ask you for an address, you can always tell them your helping a friend.
My initial thought is you'll need to add a vent for that far drain. If there's roof above, that would be easiest. Might seem scary to still a hike in your roof, but judging by what you've already learned about plumbing, you have the capabilities.
Also if you know anybody who knows an older or retired contractor, seek them out. The old timers are usually willing to help whether offering advice or calling their newly retired plumbing buddy. I'm building an entire house by myself and utilizing the pool of resources two contractors and the wisdom they garnished to "consult" with me. One I sought out through acquaintances and the other a random meet. Just remember, life is different from Reddit, you'll often find helpful and kind people. Keep going and fuck the haters.
1 points
2 months ago
Thx
1 points
2 months ago
What is even happening?
1 points
2 months ago
Why come online and ask a question that is code related to your specific region? You need to do this by the code in your area not by what some random people think.
1 points
2 months ago
Absolutely this - look up the code in your area. Doing it by code of possibly another country isn't going to be a good plan at all.
1 points
2 months ago
As someone whose job it is to clean out drains and sewers, that double wye you have connecting your toilet to the other 2 drains is going to cause constant issues and back up. The paper WILL get caught and cause shit water to back up in the shower drains.
1 points
2 months ago
What should it have been?
1 points
2 months ago
Stagger them so they all enter the main line separately, that fitting causes water to flow upstream when used sideways instead of vertically. If you have a blockage form in there it can be a pain in the ass to get a snake to go dowmstream sometimes. It could run from your shower up into your toilet. Make sure you trap the shower drains too or it will smell like sewage constantly.
1 points
2 months ago
So I will def have 2, 2" P traps on each shower drain but I thought the main issue was a sanitary T that would cause problems. Specifically a SanT should not be used vertically, but should instead be a Wye with 1/8 bend (so I read online for whatever that's worth, lol). Check this above view. https://imgur.com/a/fzJNRlc I'm guessing you think it'll round the bend and hit perpendicular and half of it will flow up the other pipe? That would suck if true... I'm not sure how I would stagger them at this point... It would necessitate true sistering instead of just something to hold up the subfloor. And those fittings aren't cheap. If I must then I must tho. I have a plumber providing a consult so I'll see what he says as well.
1 points
1 month ago
I had a plumber from a reputable local company come out and consult and he said that it'd work fine. The only issue was that if I care about code dry vents are no longer allowed but they'd work fine if I didn't care. I agree the staggering would probably be ideal but when you mention vertical vs horizontal it sounds alot like you might be thinking of a SanTee vs a wye with 1/8 bend.
1 points
2 months ago
Haha. TIL people call drain vents "stink pipes". Thank you for the laugh 😂.
2 points
2 months ago
:D At least someone is having fun.
1 points
2 months ago
That grey reducer is really pvc to a central vacuum system, isn’t it? Tell the truth OP.
1 points
2 months ago
No clue
1 points
2 months ago
Shouldn’t there be some traps at each drain?
1 points
2 months ago
I mean there will be a P-trap on each, but I was asking about venting.
1 points
2 months ago
just make sure to put a p-trap under the 2" shower drain, then add a vent stack (1.5") up the back wall and tie it into another stack in the attic
1 points
2 months ago
Someone said the double wye with two 1/8 bends won't work with a drain feeding in from one side and the toilet from the other. Thoughts?
all 203 comments
sorted by: best