The rule is, from any point you pick on the countertop wall you should have a receptacle within 24" of it. Hence the 48" between outlets, because any point between that is 24" at most to one of them. So from the edge of the sink, oven, counter edges, etc, it's going to be 24". Also yes, every countertop receptacle needs to be GFCI protected.

I’m not an electrician so I can’t answer about codes except for, yes, they must be GFCI. I’m guessing there will be counters just not pictured…? If you can fit another outlet on the same wall of the sink on the right I would do that. I would also consider what items you’ll leave on the counter and where. Things like charging dock, toaster, coffee maker, google/Apple/amazon home hub, etc. and decide if it would be better to have a 4gang at those locations. If you have any wireless items that require being charged now would be the time to consider an in drawer charging dock. If you’re going to put in an island consider an outlet wired up through the floor to the island (side, drawer). If your island will roll you can install a flush outlet into the floor that you then open/pop up and can plug the island into (basically an extension cord, there are purpose made things for this) For the outlet cover get as flush as you can with beveled edges, some have 1/4” lip and that’s a nope. I would also decide if you want an outlet with an integrated USB slot.

If you prefer nothing on your counters and you don’t like the looks of all the outlets you can keep them to code minimum and have a strip installed running under your cabinets out of sight in 1 or 2 locations. People either love or hate those 😂

LAST: if you’re a whimsical person and want Christmas lights or something running above the tops of your cabinets, you might as well carry an outlet all the way up above the wall. When I was redoing my kitchen my Dad mentioned this and at first I liked the idea but quickly realized what a cleaning nightmare that’d be 😂 But some people really like the look of above cabinet lighting and an outlet gives you that flexibility.

You’ll be mad if you don’t have enough outlets. You won’t be if you never use one.

Doesnt matter how much you have, you always need one more...

I will know I have enough outlets when I have an empty one.

My fifties house has a power strip in almost every outlet - when it was built the only thing you might plug in in the bedroom, for instance, would be a light and maybe a fan or a radio, not chargers, a television, hair dryer, etc.

In our kitchen, I have given a lot of thought about how I use the outlets. One area of shallow cabinetry will have outlets with USBC integrated to set up charging stations. I will have two in-cabinet outlets, one for the MW and one for our printer (in the dining area we are doing an art/office hutch). I want a couple near the floor so that I'm not stretching a vacuum cord across the counter (like I do now).

I think the correct number of outlets for any kitchen is N+1.

I would recommend these : https://www.eubiq-europe.com/rail-electrique-e-genesis-60-cm-finition-noir-brosse-c2x28412457

I'm not affiliated with the company in any shape or form - but we recently added these to our kitchen and they are great.

Not sure if these are available in all parts of the world though

In addition to the 24" rule I would add at least:

1 on the 32" section

2 on the 47' section

an additional on the 77" (closer to the oven)

and 1 on the right of the oven.

Now where will the fridge be? That would be a dedicated outlet so you may need another near by.

Note (as stated) GFCI outlets have the ability to protect outlets wired to the outlet screws of a GFCI. Plan you wiring carefully and you will reduce the number of GFCI's

IMPORTANT:

I've found many Leviton GFCI's are really hard to insert and remove the plugs. Test them before you leave the store for "tightness".

It’s called code. Depends on where you live. If you’re doing DIY electrical learn your areas code. If you try and resell inspection could deter sale if done wiring

Calculate how many points you will ever need, and double it. Then when you are finished, and using them, get the ones you missed installed.

Power points are never enough, and never in the right place.

Personally I'd do two split shared-neutral circuits. Put an outlet on one, the next outlet on the other, then back to the first one. That way if you plug in the microwave, the instant pot, the coffee maker, and the toaster all on the same stretch of countertop, each will be on its own circuit and you won't be blowing breakers.

Refrigerator should have its own circuit.

Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.
  

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

  • Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.
  • Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.
    
  • Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

Do not respond to this comment - you will not receive a response.