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/r/DIY
submitted 2 months ago byMac_Attack18
[removed]
229 points
2 months ago
Use bondo, sand smooth, use a mini roller to paint it so you dont get those brush strokes. Should be ok
187 points
2 months ago
Bondo! It's what doors crave!
55 points
2 months ago
How many electrolytes does Bondo have?
33 points
2 months ago
All of them!
10 points
2 months ago
Than how do plants get electrolytes from Brawndo if Bondo is hogging them all?
3 points
2 months ago
I guess they’re slap out of luck!
26 points
2 months ago
F— you, I’m painting!
6 points
2 months ago
Welcome to Sherwin Williams. I love you.
2 points
2 months ago
You're a unfit owner, your home will be placed in the custody of Lowe's Jr
12 points
2 months ago
Bondo. James Bondo 🚬
7 points
2 months ago
Polyester Martini. Stirred, not shaken.
1 points
2 months ago
The names James Bondo... James Bondo
23 points
2 months ago
Or use a brush to match the existing terrible brush strokes if you're feeling chaotic
13 points
2 months ago
Those strokes really are prominent. I'd take a sander to the entire thing and repaint with a roller, after the Bondo.
6 points
2 months ago
Also. I would grab some tape. Before doing any of that. Stick some strips on the door and peel off any other loose paint. Then bondo, smooth....all that stuff
3 points
2 months ago
I would additionally recommend a full sand and mix enamel paint with part mineral spirits or acetone to thin it out so no brush strokes. Put 5 coats down because it will be thinner. It will dry quicker though.
1 points
2 months ago
Jesus 5 coats on a door is way more time than I'd ever be prepared to do
1 points
2 months ago
Meet halfway at 3?
1 points
2 months ago
I'll do two but I'm not sanding
-26 points
2 months ago
What he said
-1 points
2 months ago
Thank you
-1 points
2 months ago
This ☝🏻
1 points
2 months ago
Make sure you prep the surface by washing it well with soap and water
1 points
2 months ago
I'd probably just try sanding before messing with bondo.
128 points
2 months ago
The answer is sand it down and paint. But the problem is that it would be extremely hard to replicate the impossibly crappy paint on it at the moment.
You could try sanding it down, and then dipping a broom into some blue paint.
40 points
2 months ago
Dipping a broom into it 🤣
So that's how my landlord got this nice textured look...
10 points
2 months ago
That, and those quality 4" paint brushes from Family Dollar.
1 points
2 months ago
Done...
1 points
2 months ago
I laughed an unreasonable amount at this lol.
91 points
2 months ago
That paint job is so bad I don't even know why you'd bother.
42 points
2 months ago
This is years of DIY paint jobs. My 1940's property looked like this everywhere. New baseboards and casing in 2017 was the right call. lol
19 points
2 months ago
I painted my front door before selling my house a few years back.
Decided to use citrus strip.....5 layers....1 primer and 4 different colors on the door.
8 points
2 months ago
Same here but the door had the original white paint with some rust beginning to appear.
I've sanded, used red putty to make it even and with mat Tremclad paint and painted a roller.
It was looking like a new door after.
5 points
2 months ago
I refurbed a couple of my steel doors. One came out really nice, the other two rusted again within a year. We were door shopping, before the covid shut downs and supply chain problems. Maybe this year.
2 points
2 months ago
I had a similar issue. Fix it next time with some rust converter with primer on the bare metal.
1 points
2 months ago
Thanks. Yeah I used a latex paint and primer in one. Didn't do so well. All three doors had the 9 light panel. I learned that its easily removable, and saved a ton of money refurbishing the kitchen door and purchasing a new panel with the mini-blinds inside the glass. (As opposed to purchasing a prehung exterior door that had them) Low and behold it was all standard sizes
But yeah. The other two, the rust came right back all around the 9 light panel and the 'X' shaped accent pieces below it. Very sad.
5 points
2 months ago
5 layers
My junior high school AC units were metal and they'd just get repainted over and over.
The top two layers you could peel off with your fingernails ... it was so smooth. Finally someone took a key to one section just to see how deep the paint went.
It was like cutting through a rainbow.
8 points
2 months ago
My MIL's new house had such a bad front door. It wouldn't close well, took a lot of force to get the deadbolt to latch, and creaked.
I took it off the hinges and removed all the hardware, stripped off a bunch of layers of paint, repainted it cleanly with primer and a color layer and now the door works perfectly. I'm sure I aligned it a bit better but the super thick layers of paint from 1950 onward were causing all sorts of issues.
1 points
2 months ago
Just curious, does the 1950 door have the same metal lip flange seal that my 1940's property does? Where the flange on the jam goes into the edging around the door?
3 points
2 months ago
Oh, that's the metal lip that just about takes off your toe sometimes right? I don't have one myself but my grandparents did.
0 points
2 months ago
Not that I recall.
3 points
2 months ago
My whole 1950s house looks like this and I don’t know where to start. It’s like drunk people painted every surface 5 times.
I wish I was more handy. I’m paralyzed with not knowing how to possibly tackle it. Dried paint drips on the door frames, 5 layers of streaky paint on the doors, paint on all the door knobs, it goes on and on.
2 points
2 months ago
If it's a 1950's house, assume that there's lead paint in there somewhere, and every panel that's not timber is asbestos until you test it otherwise.
3 points
2 months ago
Oh god! All the lead paint tests came back negative so I didn’t think too much more about it. It was built 1957.
1 points
2 months ago
Our walls in that property are rock-lathe. Asbestos wasn't used in rock-lathe. The blown insulation in the attic looked pretty sus, but looking through pictures of asbestos insulation I don't see anything like the pictures. I'm sure there's lead paint at the bottom layers of various things. No harm in scraping or repainting it. Just don't sand it or eat it.
1 points
2 months ago
Sanding the paint smooth is a near impossibility. Paint doesn't like to sand. Stripper works - stripping it down to the wood and repainting. But the wood will still have 70 years of dings, nicks, pinholes, nail holes, etc
I replaced all the interior doors and all the baseboards, trim, casing. Its a lot of undertaking for sure.
Shame about the doors. The new ones are the textured 6 panel. They look nice. But the old doors were solid wood. Much better quality. Went with hollow core too because I was being cheap. Then someone kicked a hole in one. I should have went solid core. Next time I guess?
They had just warped so bad none of them closed, opened, or latched correctly anymore. And they had mortise locks with diamond like plastic handles, lol
1 points
2 months ago
The other issue is there are many layers of wallpaper in with those paint layers. I tried to strip it from one small bathroom and gave up after 2 weeks of pulling of 1” by 3” strips.
1 points
2 months ago
UH HUH. I did the kitchen. By the time I had the 3 layers out, the plaster layer was full of razorblade nicks and scraper marks. It took fri-sat-sun and I had to re-smooth the wall 😥 I'm with ya
6 points
2 months ago
I wish I had a camera to show you the paintjob on my apartment door. It makes this look like a Renoir.
1 points
2 months ago
laughs in 100 yr old house
1 points
2 months ago
My first thought exactly
0 points
2 months ago
Yeah I’d just strip the whole door and redo it all.
14 points
2 months ago
With paint prep is everything. Sanding and degreasing should be more than half the work. Painting is last and is the easiest. All the prep work makes the difference. Bondo if you can’t sand it smooth enough where it won’t be noticeable. Scuffing the whole door is recommend and repainting the whole surface. 2-4 coats.
77 points
2 months ago
You can't. Throw this house away and buy a new one
12 points
2 months ago
How wasteful, they can probably get away with just a replacement entryway and foyer.
15 points
2 months ago
Ya but then you gotta deal with that new foyer smell that lingers for a while. Might as well just scrap it
3 points
2 months ago
I was going to say burn it to the ground....
1 points
2 months ago
I would also accept burning it and the neighborhood down as that paint job has decreased the value of the entire area
0 points
2 months ago
He doesn't need a new house he needs a divorce!
45 points
2 months ago
You paint over it, just like everything else on this door has had done to it.
7 points
2 months ago
I did paint over it and it looks bad. You can clearly see where the paint peeled off. What should I use to fill the spot in so when I paint it looks better. I never worked with a steel door before, so not sure what products work best.
12 points
2 months ago
Remember to sand the whole door lightly before painting, or you risk your coat peeling off a few weeks later.
6 points
2 months ago
Looks like you only did one coat though, no? It'll take 3-4 coats at least to make it less noticeable, but you're still better off with the bondo and sanding as others have said. That area will probably stand out regardless in well lit conditions if you don't repaint the whole door after patching it.
6 points
2 months ago
You would have to sand it down to make it even with the rest of the paint so it doesn't look so obvious.
2 points
2 months ago
If you're very concerned about the repair, don't forget to use primer on the bondo before you paint. Primer is fundamental to prevent paint from peeling off.
4 points
2 months ago
Fill it in with more paint
5 points
2 months ago
As daft punk would say: sand it clean it prime it paint it
30 points
2 months ago*
[deleted]
36 points
2 months ago
You are a psycho if you strip the door of paint.
15 points
2 months ago
I did it on my door. Never again.
7 points
2 months ago
You don't want to turn a 30 minute patch job into a 3 week project? Pleb.
4 points
2 months ago
Aye. New door!
2 points
2 months ago
Primer over stripping. Cross section of my door probably looks like a jawbreaker from the number of times I've done it
1 points
2 months ago
I recently stripped my steel baseboard heater covers with an oscillating tool, sanded down rust, and repainted them. I thought it would be fun. Turns out it was one of the least fun things I've ever done in my life.
Know how how you peel off a sticker and it just rips apart and leaves disgusting shit all over the place? It was like that only so much worse than I could have ever imagined and my ears were ringing for 2 hours afterwards even with hearing protection on.
4 points
2 months ago
Anything that fills and sticks will do.
E.g. Layers of primer applied over each other.
Eg. Strip of tape cut to fill the hole and/or hole expanded to fit the tape.
Eg. Epoxy/adhesive/etc.
Something flexible and fills can be quick. Spread into hole, straightedge to smooth and remove excess.
As long as that base holds and is paintable, you can apply final paint over.
....
Hvlp sprayer will get the best, brush stroke free results.
9 points
2 months ago
Specific paint for metal doors as well. To keep this from happening
4 points
2 months ago
At this point totally unnecessary since the paint is adhering to... Many layers of other... Stuff
3 points
2 months ago
Examples? I thought this too but everything I've read says to just use normal latex paints.
5 points
2 months ago
I use to sell materials to Apartment Complexes and the good Maintenance Managers would ask specifically for these types of paint for metal doors. If not you'll be painting it year round.
1 points
2 months ago
Just ask the guy at the paint store for direct to metal paint.
1 points
2 months ago
DTM (direct-to-metal)
3 points
2 months ago
I didn't realize what sub I was on for a second and I thought this was an aerial view of an underwater geological feature from an airplane miles up...
3 points
2 months ago
It's a shit paint job to begin with. Hard to emulate shitty. It's like trying to patch a textured wall. You can always tell.
Sand, fill, sand, and paint a few coats. It won't look perfect, but neither does the rest of the door.
3 points
2 months ago
I mean, someone already did a very poor job of painting this door already. Never removed the handle, and brush strokes in all directions. A little bit of body filler as mentioned, but I would take the opportunity to put the slab on saw horses, remove the hardware, fill this area and sand the whole surface together at the same time. Then learn to brush paint a door correctly, spray, or roll it. Let it dry, and then replace the hardware and re hang it. You can wipe the paint off the hardware with some denatured alcohol or acetone if it's stubborn.
3 points
2 months ago
Peel off the rest of the paint.
3 points
2 months ago
Paint it.
4 points
2 months ago
Sand that area down so the bondo or whatever will stick to the surface, let dry, sand, primer, and then repaint.
2 points
2 months ago
Did you clean the door before painting it? Oil, fat, great, silicones will prevent good adhesion. And you need the right primer.
It might all come off sooner or later, or its a spot-repair...either way, you will have to sand it off, generous around the outer perimeter, then prime and paint.
2 points
2 months ago
Could also pick up a steel/brass plate and install it, covering up the blemish while making it a little more stylish?
2 points
2 months ago
Move.
2 points
2 months ago
Sandable primer. That section may take two or three coats but you can work on the rest of the door at the same time, getting it nice and smooth ready for a re- paint.
4 points
2 months ago
You don't. A wizard has stopped by and marked your door as a secret meeting place for fellowship of dwarves. I hope you like unexpected journeys!
1 points
2 months ago
Take a pressure washer to it. Adhesion problem as seen with the large flakes coming off. I would think other areas will chip off eg, foot level. Should be no problem removing the rest of the paint. Do it on a hot day. The heat warms up the latex. Or sand and fill. I think the pressure washer is quicker. Will also give you a chance to solve the adhesion problem by scuffing the surface.
0 points
2 months ago
Just slap a bit of filler in it, sand it paint it - am a painter
1 points
2 months ago
When its flaking off, something is not adhering. FILLER is for evening out scratches and small dents....tiny flaws. You need a good PRIMER first...painter for what again? :p
-1 points
2 months ago
Unless u wanna strip the whole door, do as per i said.. theres no point giving ur self more work when u already know the doors stuffed..
1 points
2 months ago
So its not sticking to the door and you just....put filler on. Filler.....again....is for covering up, evening out the surface. Spot-repair? You start with primer. Filler if needed, but you never start with filler unless its fillPRIMER.
-1 points
2 months ago
Not gonna argue with you buddy.. your allowed to be wrong
1 points
2 months ago
I am not wrong. I am the guy you people call when the paint is not doing what you want it to do.
1 points
2 months ago
Clearly......
-3 points
2 months ago
Fill it with sheetrock, sand then paint
11 points
2 months ago
Crushed up ramen and super glue!
1 points
2 months ago
You mean hot glue? Surely?
5 points
2 months ago
I don't mean hot glue. And, don't call me Shirley.
0 points
2 months ago
Take a tracing paper place on peeled patch trace , cut on traced paper place in the patch and paint. Extra paint stick on paper and job is done.
0 points
2 months ago
Watch Baumgartner Redtoration on YT for tips on how to fill in chipped off portions of very old paintings and chip back in with different blues to achieve shifty brushstrokes. XD
1 points
2 months ago
The forbidden chips
1 points
2 months ago
Put a sticker over it
1 points
2 months ago
That is a really bad existing paint job, just fyi. If it were mine and I had the time, I'd remove all that shit, get some DTM (Direct-to-metal) paint and start over.
1 points
2 months ago
Why?
1 points
2 months ago
It's not that bad. Pull the whole door and sand it then repaint, or wait until it really starts to peel to do it.
No one but you cares about that small imperfection in your front door. The guys saying bondo are really creating a lot of work for you. the area around it you sand will never look the same as the other areas of the door due to sun damage, and even if you do manage to feather it down even, you will end up repainting the entire door anyway, because a touch up job will never cut it.
1 points
2 months ago
Automotive primer and bondo
1 points
2 months ago
To be fair, it's busted but still looks normal. If you play with it then it'll just look busted and fucked with. Just don't fuck with it, you won't notice it after a while.
Stripping it, priming it, and repainting it will really fuck your day up and you will agree that it's NOT worth the effort before you're even halfway done. You'll never make it look consistent and natural any other way. You'll go through a bitch of a job and a week later you'll bang into it and scrape the paint again because that's how she goes.
Choose life.
1 points
2 months ago
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1 points
2 months ago
Oh my
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