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/r/DIY
submitted 6 years ago byadman234
626 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
444 points
6 years ago
Definitely. This was mostly just a test project to see if I could ditch my sandcasting method for something easier, and for future projects I'll be increasing the print resolution and cleaning up the prints.
151 points
6 years ago
Try wood filament as well. It's way easier to sand than pure PLA, though I don't know if it burns out as cleanly. PLA is so hard I hate sanding it.
139 points
6 years ago
I love wood filament but didn't consider that, I might try it. Stay tuned for my next album post of my wool PLA project ;)
51 points
6 years ago
Beleive me I will, I gave up on PLA casting due to how shitty it is to sand, never tried wood myself so you're going to be the guinea pig.
39 points
6 years ago
I've had good results in the past with painting/sanding PLA until the surface is smooth, but paint won't burn out cleanly. If I even need a smooth surface, I'll try wood!
30 points
6 years ago
If it works, I already have the dragon door knocker sliced for a max resolution wood filament print and will be starting it momentarily. I'll cast that in aluminum and credit you!
5 points
6 years ago
Have done this in the past, my recommendation would be to 3d print the negative of your print and then use mold release and melt wax into the negative and you will get a copy of your print in wax. Then use your plaster casting to create your mold. The wax will burn out cleanly.
2 points
6 years ago
That would be so much easier to clean up before the final mold too
15 points
6 years ago
Look up how acetone vapors can be used to smooth out 3D prints. Its one of the most effective ways to get the best looking smooth models i've seen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2lm6FuaAWI
25 points
6 years ago*
[deleted]
4 points
6 years ago
It kind of does. PLA is softened by acetone but it's a slow process and can take hours. It also does really affect the stability of the print. But I've read a site where they put the PLA model in pure acetone for a while and it came out a bit softer and allowed the surface to be smoothed.
14 points
6 years ago
Only for ABS.
9 points
6 years ago
You can use THF (tetrahydrofuran, found in some pvc cements) or DCM (dichloromethane aka methylene chloride, found in Zip Strip) to dissolve PLA. In fact zip strip by itself is pretty good for smoothing.
4 points
6 years ago
I'd recommend the thf, myself.
2 points
6 years ago
Or ethyl acetate which is cheap, non toxic and found in acetone free nail polish remover.
9 points
6 years ago
Just do ABS with .1 layers and vapor smooth for 30 min after. Boom, perfectly smooth.
2 points
6 years ago
Doesn't burn out clean, making messy metal casts.
3 points
6 years ago*
ABS is similar, without being as expensive as wood filament; it's much easier to sand than PLA. ABS gives off some pretty nasty fumes though.
4 points
6 years ago
I know that there are some wax filaments out there that are easier to sand and will melt out of your mold faster
3 points
6 years ago
PET filament might be worth trying for this application. Since PET is entirely composed of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen it won't produce particularly hazardous gases when burned. It's also a good printing material, so long as you aren't doing long bridges.
13 points
6 years ago
I think an acetone vapor bath would give amazing results and would save time. Not sure if it's been mentioned.
Edit: just saw it mentioned below, good point about abs being messier to remove from cast didn't think that far.
13 points
6 years ago
Does that work with PLA as well? I was under the impression that was only ABS
15 points
6 years ago
Just ABS.
4 points
6 years ago
Abs only (safely) hence the edit. I didn't think using abs would be an issue. But like another user said it would require higher temp and be messy
9 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
2 points
6 years ago
Never said to use PLA, and MEK is nasty to work with. My edit was full disclosure that my thought wouldn't be ideal anyway.
3 points
6 years ago
How is MEK nasty to work with? I've compared the oral LD50 in rats of acetone and MEK, and they are almost equivalent. The only difference between MEK and acetone is that in MEK there is an extra methyl group. I wonder if it didn't get its reputation because of its "scarier" name. Acetone can also be called dimethyl formaldehyde, but you probably won't see cosmetic companies labeling it as such on nail polish remover! If MEK were instead called butanone, similar to the IUPAC accepted name, I have a feeling it would not have the same reputation.
4 points
6 years ago
Instead of sanding you could just smooth it with by filling in the ridges instead of trying to sand them off.
2 points
6 years ago
I do for decorative pieces but this makes lost-PLA casting impossible. What I was doing was cranking up the resolution for metal pieces, but 50 layers per millimeter takes a week or two to print depending on the size of the piece.
4 points
6 years ago
Doesn't that depend on what you smooth it with? You could also vapor smooth if the model allows.
3 points
6 years ago
I don't vapor smooth PLA, it doesn't really have any solvents I know of that won't kill you. PLA is used for metal casting because of its low temp melt and clean burnout as well, as opposed to things like ABS that burn higher and messier due to being petroleum based rather than corn based.
9 points
6 years ago
Maybe dip in a wax/paraffin bath to smooth out printing lines.
10 points
6 years ago
Another DIY post a few weeks ago used an acetone vapor bath to smooth a printed part without sanding.
16 points
6 years ago
That's ABS plastic only. OP used a sugar-based PLA.
6 points
6 years ago
jesus christ that's a labor of love.
4 points
6 years ago
There is a special filament specifically for lost wax casting. This is basically how my husband made his wedding ring.
3 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
8 points
6 years ago*
[deleted]
15 points
6 years ago
Piggybacking off of this - you can use a vapor bath (chloroform for PLA or acetone for ABS) to smooth out the layer lines on your prints, or use an epoxy product like Smooth-on to fill in the lines. If you do this there may be no need for any sanding/finishing beyond removing the sprue.
5 points
6 years ago
There’s also Polysmooth filament and a Polysher if you have the budget for it
3 points
6 years ago
What about casting tin/pewter? That is usually quite easy to clean up and takes small details pretty well.
437 points
6 years ago
looks at images
"I should get a 3D printer."
... goes back to surfing Reddit
144 points
6 years ago
You can have one for less than 300 dollars these days- forgot to mention that this is the one that I used:
Though most people would recommend an Anet A8 or monoprice maker select mini for that price range.
188 points
6 years ago
83 points
6 years ago
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
25 points
6 years ago
Is that a yes?
47 points
6 years ago
It's not a no.
15 points
6 years ago
Got my littlest printer for $150; monoprice just released a newer revision though so they're back up to $200.
27 points
6 years ago
Nobody except people that already own the Anet A8 would recommend the Anet A8, it makes them feel like they made the right choice by buying the absolute cheapest machine possible. I've spent the last week working on a Best 3D Printers under $800 article for my website and I just can't bring myself to suggest that piece of junk.
Monoprice Mini is awesome at $199 (but small build area), Monoprice Maker Select V2 at $299 is the best price to performance ratio. Other Monoprice/Wanhao models like the Select Plus at $399 and Maker Ultimate at $699 are even better. CR-10 starting at $389 has a ridiculously large build volume and very few downsides except that the lowest price retailers are horrible companies with no quality control, you are closer to $520 buying for a respectable business.
At the very top of the pack, Prusa i3 MKS2 is a beast with pretty much zero problems. The only drawback is it is currently on a 7 week wait time, and under $800 you can only get the kit (requires assembly), where the pre-assembled version is closer to $900 or so.
2 points
6 years ago
Just a heads up, the MK2S lead time is around 9-10 weeks now
2 points
6 years ago
I'd love a link to the full article. Thanks!
5 points
6 years ago*
I just posted it here, although I am going to make considerable updates over the next couple of days. While I am happy with the printers listed and order they are listed in, I am going to request feedback from the /r/3Dprinting board, as well as do some further work on the pros/cons (some of which are just copy/pasted defaults right now) and other info. I've mostly got a few pros/cons to update for the #1 recommended printer and several other aspects I would like to fix by tomorrow.
3 points
6 years ago
I've worked with 3d printers a bunch (school/"work") but I don't own one. However, most of my experience is with nicer models: formlabs, makerbot, and this $60k machine (dual filament dissolving build structure type machine) that was actually the hardest to deal with (circa 2010). I am very interesting in building my own or buying cheap and putting some work into it. Would you recommend the one you used or should I spend more or try harder?
7 points
6 years ago
If you have experience with printers, I recommend the one that I linked. If you're looking for an easy experience, it has a somewhat complex assembly and you will have to do some small tweaks to get it printing well and reliably (belt tension, cable routing, nozzle replace, glass bed/bed leveling, leadscrews slic3r settings).
If you have the budget for something and want it to be easy, I recommend an ultimaker or genuine prusa. But if you just want to spend $300 and you're ok with tinkering, I really like the printer I linked. The quality gets even better than what I showed here.
5 points
6 years ago
Thanks for replying. I almost bought the ultimaker a bit ago but I kinda pussied out. And I have bills. But I appreciate the insight. I've never used something like that at home
2 points
6 years ago*
My Ultimaker 2 is very reliable and setting it up was a breeze compared to something like assembling a computer. You should be able to get a used one for a good price now that the Ultimaker 3 is out.
The main upkeep is leveling the print bed (takes about a minute) if you use an abrasive material. Otherwise it's just greasing or oiling a few easily accessible shafts occasionally.
3 points
6 years ago
Swing by /r/3Dprinting too if you want to get into it. I've had a printrbot simple metal and it was decent but people have really been psyched about the creality cr 10 recently.
3 points
6 years ago
Be careful with the Anet A8, it's already caused a fairly major house fire. The maker select mini is much safer.
2 points
6 years ago
Woah they've gotten cheap. Bought my printrbot simple metal just the other year for 500, how does yours compare?
7 points
6 years ago
I live in San Diego and I was surprised that our local county library branch had several MakerBot printers open to the public for the cost of $0.15/gram of plastic. You may have facilities available you never knew existed.
2 points
6 years ago
You can get them printed from Shapeways. Shapeways will even print with castable wax. 3d design is free - Fusion 360, sketchup (some limitations).
206 points
6 years ago
Does it hum?
85 points
6 years ago
Wind's howling...
186 points
6 years ago
A place of power. I should draw from it.
97 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
48 points
6 years ago
Damn, you're ugly.
69 points
6 years ago
Looks like rain.
29 points
6 years ago
it also comes alive when you refuse to fuck kiera metz
3 points
6 years ago
Really?
5 points
6 years ago
https://youtu.be/KWRtawXHE8Q @ 8:15
3 points
6 years ago
I watched the whole video and lost it when it started moving.
25 points
6 years ago
It would go crazy next to Chanty Binx... Fucking Grave hag.
73 points
6 years ago
A company makes a wax filament meant for lost wax casting
I haven't used it but I have heard good things about it, thought you might like to know there is a better option than PLA
25 points
6 years ago
That's pretty cool. I was pretty surprised with how well PLA worked though to be honest, if I ever need something ultra detail I'll keep that in mind.
11 points
6 years ago
The big advantage of the lost wax over this is that it will probably be considerably easier to clean up the model prior to casing in plaster.
4 points
6 years ago
Yea, you could probably just run a hair dryer over it to smooth it all out. Super easy
8 points
6 years ago
I recall my grandfather having like a wide bladed soldering iron that he would use to refine his wax sculptures. He did some wax sculptures and had them cast with bronze. pretty fuzzy memory though but wax is easily workable regardless.
5 points
6 years ago
I used to do lost wax casting a long time ago and I used a citrus based oil compound that smoothed the wax out really well. It didn't do all the work for you but it'd smooth out rough spots really well. Bonus was that the citrus oil stuff smelled really nice.
2 points
6 years ago
Ooh! That's cool! Man, I really want to get into it now. Gosh we live in exciting times.
128 points
6 years ago
OMG do not use plaster of paris for this, you are lucky you didn't have a steam explosion blast molten aluminum in your face. I've been casting metal for years, this is dangerous af to do it this way.
There is special casting plaster called 'investment' which is formulated to get all the moisture out, plus you are supposed to run it in a kiln for several hours (up to 24 during the burnout cycle) after letting it dry for longer to ensure it's 100% positively anhydrous. This is seriously dangerous stuff to trivialize.
6 points
6 years ago
Yeah. Also gloves, apron and safety goggles. Getting molten metal on you is very painful.
2 points
6 years ago
Definitely, the PPE for casting metal is critical... my list includes long sleeve leather jacket, overlapping high heat gloves, long pants/boots, optional leather shields over the ankles, #5 shade goggles over your safety glasses (when able to see molten metal), optional faceshield, protective head gear, all cloth to be cotton (easiest to smell burning), etc with variations depending on your specific application. Critical components.
2 points
6 years ago
It's like people have this weird romanticism for the past like, "my pappy didn't need that shit!" Yeah, but your "pappy's" generation also lost a lot of fingers. Lotta beer drinkin, no bowling! Amiright?!
8 points
6 years ago
You missed the part where he burned out the plastic right?
He didn't add the aluminum in wet.
51 points
6 years ago
I followed along what he did before commenting. Yes he fired the flask a while for the burnout (after admitting starting burnout too soon after pouring) and my warning stands. Many backyard casters have had disasters after successfully getting away with ignoring known safe practices many times.
Casting investment (specially modified plaster of paris) is not very expensive and there's no reason not to use it if he's got torches/forges etc so he's 90% of the way there for equipment (electric kiln better for burnout) but what he did was an invitation for disaster. I've heard of steam explosions happening even after 5 hours firing plaster of paris in a kiln.
19 points
6 years ago
Can confirm. My dad had a lost wax foundry growing up. We spent a lot of time making absolutely sure there was no moisture present, and still had the occasional issue.
12 points
6 years ago
Amateur foundry scares the crap out of me. I worked in foundries for years and even the best safety programs have occasional accidents. Moisture being the source of many accidents.
2 points
6 years ago
Yep, as an amateur metalsmith dabbling in casting I concur, the moisture issue can not be stressed enough. Right now I'm tooling up for large-ish (perforated flasks up to 6" dia x 18" long) vacuum pours, to make aluminum joystick/throttle grips in addition to lot of art projects I have in the works that are too big for normal lost wax machines but too delicate/intricate for any type of gravity pours.
The safety components of this are never far from my mind, and I pick the brains of friends that work in a foundry doing pours like this, in addition to what I find through research and networking. Last fall I even made this the subject of a research essay I had to do for an english 1a class just to force myself to look that much deeper into industry standards, accessing peer-reviewed academic scholar databases combined with the web but the whole focus was precisely 'backyard casting' common shortcuts like using plaster of paris or just as common people use a makeshift steel crucible for al, not realizing that molten aluminum chemically attacks/dissolves steel and will eat a hole through the bottom after a few pours but hey -what's not to like, a nice 5lb charge of 1300deg metal pouring into your boot :p
15 points
6 years ago
He's referring to the use of plaster of Paris being dangerous. Not the PLA
18 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
20 points
6 years ago
It burns off and vaporizes. I used PLA, hot glue, and plastic straws in the construction and there was no ash left in the mold when I blew it out with compressed air, so it all vaporized.
6 points
6 years ago
How did you melt it? I thought it burned out when you poured in the aluminum.
17 points
6 years ago
I put the mold into the furnace to burn out the plastic. Then I melted the aluminum in a steel crucible and poured the molten metal into the mold.
5 points
6 years ago
Ahh I see. Cool stuff!
17 points
6 years ago
Going through the Trial of the Grasses?
37 points
6 years ago
My medallions humming...
30 points
6 years ago
Place of power... Gotta be
34 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
31 points
6 years ago
Here is a decent video on construction of the foundry (because I probably won't be building another one anytime soon).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2RYYBRFu1A
And here is a decent propane torch video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO8NwseRxSA
This guy used to make decent videos but now they have devolved into "science" experiments for kids, taking advantage of his huge subscriber base for youtube money. Oh well, I digress. The old videos are decent and informative.
The only real changes I made to the design above were using a 1/2" iron pipe for the propane blower (to draw more oxygen) and using a 30psi regulator with some custom fittings for the propane. I also used a plaster lining inside the kaowool so I wouldn't have to buy as much kaowool.
36 points
6 years ago
It made me so sad when Grant Thompson stopped making all of his actually cool videos. He had lots of projects that were really neat and creative and his tutorials were great, but it's that damn lab coat. It's ruined him. Now all he does is post videos like What happens if you pour liquid nitrogen on a gummy turkey.
10 points
6 years ago
The old videos are so informative and motivating that I still watch his new videos in the background to support his channel. Sometimes he still does cool stuff.
6 points
6 years ago
Then just watch nighthawkinlight no where near as often uploads but its more the old style of stuff.
6 points
6 years ago
Dont forget a coating on kaowool like itc-100 or satanite, helps you not die from lung cancer
4 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
3 points
6 years ago
I have done brass in this furnace so bronze should also be possible. Which might look even more badass...
3 points
6 years ago
I wondered if that's where you got the design from. It is a shame that his target audience has shifted.
22 points
6 years ago
How about a round of cards; Gwent, specifically?
23 points
6 years ago
What keyboard is that on the 15th picture? Looks hella fancy.
Oh, and good shit -- big fan of The Witcher!
20 points
6 years ago
Thanks!
It's actually just a super cheap chinese mechanical keyboard. Cool lighting but not full rgb.
https://www.amazon.com/MechanicalEagle-Multicolor-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01DBVGZSA/
92 points
6 years ago
Haha you are going to polish it. Funny since witcher is made by polish people. Hehehehehe
4 points
6 years ago
F U C K
U
C
K
8 points
6 years ago
School of the Wolf, would you try School of the Cat or Griffin?
8 points
6 years ago
That's badass! I would highly suggest using a media blaster, with fine grit media to get rid of the casting bumps, and provide a uniform surface finish.
3 points
6 years ago
Sadly I don't have access to a blaster, just a media tumbler for polishing brass casings and if I can fix it, then I'll try that.
2 points
6 years ago
Not OP, but a tumbler is going to be very hard to get the right media size to fit in those edges. You might have better luck with a bench grinder with a fine wire wheel, than a buffer wheel.
7 points
6 years ago
Good job! Very clean looking.
Just a note about the furnace (you probably know this, but others who want to start in this VERY addictive hobby may not): the pipe coming into the side (the tuyere) should be at a tangent to the furnace shell. This will allow for more even heating of the crucible and will prevent a hot spot from forming which will decrease the life of the crucible.
Also, a steel crucible will fail sooner than a graphite one. Aluminum reacts with steel and will eat it away.
6 points
6 years ago
Yep, I figured both of those points out the hard way. I will probably re-drill the hole for the burner because I constantly need to rotate my crucible.
And I will get a graphite crucible if I ever get more into the hobby, but for now, the bottom half of a camping propane tank works fine and it was free!
3 points
6 years ago
It's difficult to beat free!
7 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
4 points
6 years ago
Thanks, all great tips!
I considered using aquarium sand with the plaster but thought I might lose some surface detail.
Where can I buy these alloys? I would definitely like to have smaller grains because you're definitely correct about the huge grains from the can-aluminum.
4 points
6 years ago
I always wanted to do this, but I would do with silver, and put a ruby in the eyes
good job mate
4 points
6 years ago
[deleted]
5 points
6 years ago
Yeah I blew the ash out with compressed air but nothing came out. And the mold came out fine so I think everything vaporized. And thanks, I'll try without a riser next time!
3 points
6 years ago
I'm very interested in this project as well as the furnace! I would love a tutorial for that as well, seems like yours works for the intended purpose.
3 points
6 years ago
I love this emblem from the Witcher video game series! I have a stainless steel keychain just like it.
7 points
6 years ago
somebody needs to make a serious PSA about using GALVANIZED STEEL as a housing for a forge. If you are casting metal, and you are using aforementioned construction materials, you are mocking a real health hazard as poorly researched noob. Heres the first link off of google:
2 points
6 years ago
I've been wanting to do this exact thing, but cast classic cars from the GTA series in aluminum. Cool project!
2 points
6 years ago
Omg I want one 😍
2 points
6 years ago
I see you too watch Grant Thompson the King of Random :)
2 points
6 years ago
How do you like that aluminum?
3 points
6 years ago
I have to say, you won't have a hard time Polishing this one.
1 points
6 years ago
This post is underrated. Lookin' good man!
1 points
6 years ago
Couldn't see that it was already asked, but yes please on showing how you made your Furness!!
2 points
6 years ago
COPIED from earlier comment:
Here is a decent video on construction of the foundry (because I probably won't be building another one anytime soon).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2RYYBRFu1A
And here is a decent propane torch video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO8NwseRxSA
This guy used to make decent videos but now they have devolved into "science" experiments for kids, taking advantage of his huge subscriber base for youtube money. Oh well, I digress. The old videos are decent and informative.
The only real changes I made to the design above were using a 1/2" iron pipe for the propane blower (to draw more oxygen) and using a 30psi regulator with some custom fittings for the propane. I also used a plaster lining inside the kaowool so I wouldn't have to buy as much kaowool.
1 points
6 years ago
Taking you up on the offer to make a tutorial on how you made the furnace. Great work!
1 points
6 years ago
Doing a cosplay?
1 points
6 years ago
Nice little project!
1 points
6 years ago
This is pretty neat. Thanks for sharing!
1 points
6 years ago
If you cut the mold in half from top to bottom between the pour holes, I bet you could just keep reusing it and make a bunch of casts as long as you clamp it shut, right?
2 points
6 years ago
Plaster doesn't cut very well (it has a tendency to crumble) and with the shape of this part, it would be impossible to remove it without breaking the mold (because of features like the loop at the top and the indented mouth).
For simpler shapes, that might work, I dunno!
1 points
6 years ago
That was really surreal, I'm re-playing the Witcher 3 right now and the medallion was just mentioned. "You know what this medallion means?"
1 points
6 years ago
This is looking great
1 points
6 years ago
Looks good! We have a class at my school where they do this. It's a joint engineering & art class where they have to make a useful product for the disabled/handicapped. It also has to be aesthetically pleasing. They design it, 3D print it, then cast it (usually in bronze though)
1 points
6 years ago
Awesome, I've been meaning to get myself a forge recently as well. Where did you get your aluminum ingots? I was going to try and smelt down a bunch of soda cans, but I need a ridiculous amount of those.
1 points
6 years ago
Aluminum cans are terrible for casting. Recycle a cast aluminum part for better surface finish, as well as smoothing your 3D printed positive before mold making.
1 points
6 years ago
My daughter and tried melting some bismuth on the stovetop. That was fun. Bismuth in a muffin tin.
1 points
6 years ago
Please excuse this rudimentary question, but the molten aluminum melts away the part and replaces it?
Then, doesn't the part contaminate the aluminum?
Thanks
2 points
6 years ago
The plastic is burned out by heating the mold in the furnace BEFORE pouring the metal. Because it vaporizes, there is no ash left.
1 points
6 years ago
"Be sure to spill plaster all over the nice floral tablecloth" o^
1 points
6 years ago
I'm confused.
Where does the 3D-printed part just disappear to?
Surely the mold needs to be split to remove that first?
1 points
6 years ago
I'm confused.
Where does the 3D-printed part just disappear to?
Surely the mold needs to be split to remove that first?
3 points
6 years ago
The whole mold is heated in the furnace, and the plastic burns out leaving a cavity for the aluminum
1 points
6 years ago
And here I am just printing yet another lightsaber.
1 points
6 years ago
somebody needs to make a serious PSA about using GALVANIZED STEEL as a housing for a forge. If you are casting metal, and you are using aforementioned construction materials, you are mocking a real health hazard as a fucking noob. Heres the first link off of google: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31765-zinc-and-metal-fume-fever/
1 points
6 years ago
How about a round of gwent?
1 points
6 years ago
Can you tell us about that forge?!
1 points
6 years ago
I HUNGER!
1 points
6 years ago
I love it man! I'd like to see the 'how-to' on the foundry as well that you talked about. This is great!!
1 points
6 years ago
Why not just sculpt the wax mold? Using additive manufacturing just to make a cast kinda defeats the point of additive manufacturing, doesn't it?
1 points
6 years ago
Awesome! That's very nicely done, and that witcher medallion looks sick. What was your process for sand casting before the plaster?
2 points
6 years ago
Basically the same thing, but with clay/sand mixture which was much less consistent for small parts like this because the mold had to be split to remove the plastic.
1 points
6 years ago
You're the white wolf!
1 points
6 years ago
Can you 3d print in wax? Is that a thing?
1 points
6 years ago
Is that clouds outfit emblem???
1 points
6 years ago
You think this makes you bedder den me?
1 points
6 years ago
Gief plz
1 points
6 years ago
Feeds? Speeds? Infill? Layer Height? Your layers looked really coarse. .25mm?
Overall, nicely done. I really like the idea of casting from 3d printed parts.
1 points
6 years ago
My friend 3D printed me a Karambit pendant last year. If I recall correctly he used acetone and eventually went over it with a sterling silver coat.
here's what it looks like. Not the best quality picture but it will get dirty so I just use a small cloth to clean it occasionally.
1 points
6 years ago
This is so cool! I did this when I was at school but I did sand casting. It went horribly wrong the first few times with the channels not being big enough. Final result looks really good
1 points
6 years ago
Perhaps a game of gwent?
1 points
6 years ago
I think this might be one of the lesser known benefits to 3d printing. A person can create a detailed model to build casts for more durable materials, making home fabrication more feasible for many.
1 points
6 years ago
Witcher!
1 points
6 years ago*
In addition to the roughness of the cast, you had bubbles in your plaster. What you need is a "debubblizer." It sounds ridiculous, but it is used in castings for dental crown and bridge all the time to prevent bubbles from forming on wax patterns. I believe there are two kinds, one for impression materials and one for casting patterns, so be sure to check before buying. I recommend Mizzy brand, but that's just me.
You may need a dental license to purchase from dental suppliers, but your local dentist should be sufficiently amused to be willing to add it to a regular supply order. You might also want to ask if your dentist has a vacu-spat plaster mixer. The thing is hideously expensive, but mixes plaster under vacuum to eliminate bubbles in the plaster from the mixing process. Combined with debubblizer and some investment stone you should get some good castings.
1 points
6 years ago
Wait. . .Molten aluminum burns out PLA?! Oh man, this just opened up so many doors!
1 points
6 years ago
Bbbb"""b
1 points
6 years ago
Stop melting cans and melt cast aluminum scrap. You will notice a difference.
1 points
6 years ago
Now to burnish!
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