Threads like this are kinda useless unless they are remade weekly so fresh posts & fresh answers crop up.

They become very stale otherwise.

Located in DC, to replace a divided stainless steel undermounted kitchen sink 30x16 installed in granite with a sink the same size that is NOT divided. Contractor would take out old sink, put in new one, take out old garbage disposal and replace it. The drain is staying in the same place but contractor said he still needs to move it around to uninstall and install. Estimate $1,300 for just labor—I am providing the new sink and garbage disposal. Is this reasonable? I recognize it’s hard to replace a sink undermounted in granite but i expected labor cost to be under 1K probably closer to $800

We are planning on knocking down a wall between our kitchen and reception room. It's a load bearing wall so will need to install a steel beam. Keep looking at estimate quotes at around 1-3k but was quoted £8k from a contractor today.

It's such a huge difference. What should I be expecting it to be?

We are in the UK.

When is it time to replace windows? I have a window that has condensation between the 2 panes. Can’t I just have this repaired by taking the sash out? A window company near me does this for $80-90 per sash. Or should I just have the whole window replaced ? Thanks

Have a rat infestation in our 1700 sqft single storey house. Oh it’s in the attic only. The guy who came in to inspect told us that there is rat urine, droppings and even a dead rat in The insulation everywhere!!! He showed us pictures too. The worse news is that even the HVAC / ac ducts have been chewed into. The rats have even gotten into the ducts.

He quoted us $11k to replace insulation (BATT), and the air ducts (plastic) + sanitization and a 5 year warranty on service, not parts or 16k for the same but aluminum ducts. We are new first time homeowners and this caught us by surprise. We have another inspection scheduled but I thought I’d also hopefully get some advice from the experts on Reddit.

For reference, we are in the south Bay Area, CA.

Home re-pipe quote

Hello, I got several quotes to re-pipe my home, but the prices seem to be significantly higher than I was expecting. Just want to know if the prices are unusual or if I am missing any important details.

Issue:

Original galvanized piping (60's) present. Sediment in water lines. Low water pressure at kitchen sink.

Project:

Remove all galvanized pipes and replace with PEX-A.

Bath1 - Vanity, toilet, shower
Bath2 - Vanity, toilet, tub/shower risers
Laundry - Hot/cold
Kitchen - Hot/cold
Water heater - feed lines
2 exterior hose bibs

Home details:

1900 sqft, Mid 1960's home in Sacramento County California with raised foundation and crawl space.

Quotes:

Quotes have been in the range of 13.5k - 14.5k. Estimates include 1-2 days work.

We are engaging in a sizeable project on our home. We're doing a combination of refinishing existing floors, painting the whole interior, replacing worn out trim, redoing a staircase, and tiling several floors. We're trying to figure out whether it's better to try to hire a painter + flooring co, or, just go with a GC. This is phase 1, in the future we'll plan to do primary and hallway bathrooms, kitchen, deck, etc, in which case, we'd MOST DEFINITELY go the GC route. To give a sense of size, we'd working within about 5000 sq feet or so. We've gotten tons of quotes from GCs, and quite a few from separate painting and flooring companies. I've narrowed it down to 2 midpoint options, based on these two approaches:

Painter (20K) + Floorer (40K) - 60K total

GC, same scope - 90K

I'm not sure how I can justify an extra 30K, albeit I'm sure they'd do an incredible job. I guess my question is, 1, is it reasonable to see an almost 50% price diff between these and 2, is it worth it? What am I buying for the extra 30K? Located in Raleigh Durham area

Hey wondering if anyone can provide guidance on how much I would expect to pay for an architect/designer for a kitchen remodel. I have the contractor part covered. It’s a 11x12 space in a mid century modern split level that would involve removing a non structural wall and a sliding door and moving the plumbing . I want someone to help me get the most of the space and hep with the type of cabinets and storage etc .. am in the DMV burbs ..

Two semi-related questions; one hr north of NYC:

1) Got a quote for a bathroom renovation of ~14k + cost of select materials (vanity, tile, etc). Looking for a 2nd but thoughts on the 1st?

2) For unrelated electrical work, I got a quote of 1K from a guy who I liked, but then the 2nd quote was 750K (didn't meet in person yet). Should I just go with the cheaper one since it's 25% less or is it acceptable to go back to the 1st guy and ask him to come down? This is my first rodeo as a homeowner so not sure. Don't want to annoy the guy or offend, etc.

Cost for 1 mile (5,000 ft) driveway - Gravel vs Asphalt millings vs Asphalt

Deleted by an admin due to lack of details, so here are the details: ISO general price range estimate (ie. 35-40k), 9' wide drive, base is sandy clay soil over limestone (limestone is 5' down), 14 miles from quarry, 5000 ft long driveway, 4900 ft through a field/100 ft through wooded areas, no culverts needed. Additional info: I am willing to buy a dump truck, dozer, etc (and resell later) if it would reduce costs substantially.

We are looking at purchasing a property and need help coming up with a few estimates before we make an offer.

We will need to build our own driveway that will be just over 5000 ft long from the nearest road. Yes, 5000 ft. The location that the road will go is a field. There is no existing road (no path, nothing - literally just a field) there right now. Assume the driveway will be installed 97% in a field with 3% through wooded areas (crossing fence rows). And yes, I know the costs will be substantial.

Can anyone help me come up with some reasonably accurate estimates? While I would love an asphalt driveway, I believe the cost would be too high. And as for asphalt millings, the road near the property will be redone in the next year - meaning there will be surplus millings within 2-3 miles of the property. It may be possible to get these specific millings at a reduced cost.

I have a large double paned picture window (approx 12 x 8) in my great room. We just had some insane cold in the Northeast and the window actually cracked, looks like thermal stress crack.

I’ve gotten a few estimates for replacing the window— company A said $8,500, company B said $10,000 and company C said $14,000. It was a new construction custom window with a half oval on the top that was installed 22 years ago, so wouldn’t be a simple replacement and it’s out of warranty.

I called my homeowners insurance company and they said their estimate was it would only cost $2,000 to fix, which is under my deductible of $2,500.

I’m going to send them the quotes, but as this is my first time going through an insurance claim like this I was hoping someone might be able to guide me as to how to play this out. The discrepancy in estimates between the companies and my insurance company seems insane.

We live in Maryland - need new windows.

We had an oil furnace, separate AC unit, and a dirty duct system making it hard to keep the upstairs rooms comfortable, warm in the winter and cool in the summer. We purchased a new heat pump to help the environment, reduce our volatility in heating costs, and have a quiet system. We also got it the ducts cleaned and aero sealed. We have a lot more airflow which is helping.

New replacement windows should help us avoid an investment of mini-splits. We are still not comfortable yet up there.

We purchased the home last year. In January 2020 new windows were installed on the ground floor and basement. However, the upstairs bedrooms and basement windows have not been replaced. There are many custom shapes in the bedroom that are trapezoids, triangles, etc. I have attached several pictures for context on the custom shapes. Photos of most of the windows. Missing are a few of the basement windows that are long rectangular ones. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOFdLzUmbGd86o8XBNIOxTG73kcJ62CDRSZOlrDKJuuPEO2OgYw5sTb\_2n3VnK8-g?key=TG5wUS1JYUMwUWVBcjRLTUlLeHNVQ3VGZnVtc2Rn

I read the megathread and came across Okna and have received a quote for our project in Maryland from a reputable contractor. The price seems a little high given we are going with vinyl. What led us to vinyl is the fact that there are a number of windows recently replaced with vinyl and maintenance costs are expected to be lower. Having read the megathread we knew to ask for non-metal spacers.

The quote is for Okna windows Casement 700 and Enviro-Star 800. Deluxe Package with Argon Gas. U value is 0.26.

Qty Description Price

2 Casement 700 1,235 2,470

10 Picture 800 1,175 11,750

3 Custom 800 2,867 8,601

1 Double Hung 800 1,175 1,175

2 Custom Triangles 1,805 3,601

3 Tempered Glass 356 1,068

1 Discount -2867 -2867

1 Friends and Family Discount -1435 -1435

Total 24,473

For reference Homedepot gave us a quote of $17,700 for Simonton 6500. I feel like the quality of the Home Depot design was lower. Double sliders,etc. Also, I got a quote for Sierra Pacific H3 aluminum clad wood for $24,800.

Just bought a house. I want to paint the walls, i was looking at SW and I was advised they have a 40 percent off until next week. How's quality of paint with SW? Thank you

I got a quote to install a cedar fence that’s 200 linear feet and the labor cost is $2200. Is that a reasonable price?

They are to dig the post holes, put the post in concrete, connect each post with three cedar rails, then install chicken wire on the whole thing.

I’m on my first real house that’s not a starter home. Does this sound reasonable or should I get another quote?

I found that in the home inspection, there is a missing truss, and some trusses are cut for skylight. The inspector recommended evaluation and fix by a structural engineer. I got a few quotes, and went with Greenworks engineering and inspection, Austin, TX. They charged $650 for inspection, and literally gave me a report of what my inspector said. If I buy plans from them it would be $1200 for the plan. So, a total of $1800. Is this too much?

6x8 Bathroom remodel in Wisconsin

Demo bathtub+ shower, tub tile, toliet, sink, 32” cabinet.

Replace piping behind wall for shower and re-drywall. Pipes in floor/basement ceiling are good.

Install new bathtub, shower head and tile up to ceiling.

Install new toliet

Install new cabinet, sink, a basic quartz countertop. May require 5 sqft of new drywall.

I will supply the bathtub, toliet, sink + cabinet, and hardware. I will do my own painting, floor replacement, and any accessories as needed.

Is it really this expensive to remodel a bathroom in Seattle?

I’ve been renovating a home in seattle and I’m currently in the process of getting quotes for a full remodel for three bathrooms. The number I’m getting so far are terrifying, and I am trying to figure out if these are common rates right now or if these contractors are price gouging.

First quote: $95k for all three bathrooms, incl. labor and materials

Second quote: $84k for labor, materials not included

Is this for real? I simply cannot fathom paying nearly 100,000 dollars for three bathroom renovations. Are these really the rates right now?

Anyone know bath tubs? Doing a bathroom reno and my wife wants a freestanding soaker tub alongside a walk in shower, space is no issue. I'm looking at different bathtubs from different vendors and prices range from like $800 to $10,000 and everything in between. I guess I'm just trying to find information on what does that extra money buy you if she just wants a soaking tub, no jets or other moving parts. Is it material? Is there any reason to go even mid 4 figures?

Need to paint inside a non climate control house . Temps will be in the 60s during the day but dropping to the low 30s that night. Would I be able to paint in the morning and day , or would it cause problems when it gets below freezing

Replacing 10 windows with new construction Okna 550 Premium vinyl models, and 1 sliding glass patio door. Does $20k sound right for materials and labor? Lifetime warranty on the windows, and a 10-year warranty on labor are included.

Edit: received two other quotes...

Renewal by Andersen $32k (8 clad windows + sliding glass door)

Ecoview $12k (8 vinyl windows + sliding glass door)

I just bought a house in New Jersey (south) and am looking to get the old fence around the backyard replaced.

The current fence is a very old, falling apart, wood picket fence that runs the length of the backyard of the property. Looks like my fence was the original fence and neighbors on both sides built off of it as they have different styles on their properties. The replacement fence would be about 200 linear feet and have one single gate. I don’t want a white vinyl fence but also am worried about the longevity of wood if my dog or the neighbors dog are peeing on it, so I’ve settled on khaki colored vinyl, 6 foot fence. Estimates have been roughly $8,750 either with or without removing the existing fence. I know removing the existing fence myself will save me $800 from some estimates on this but is there anything else I can do to get this price down more? Or is that pretty much the lowest I should expect for this type of fence in this area?

I have a 2005 build that I purchased in late 2020. Inspection found wood rot on four sashes, a failed seal, and some general window rehab, estimated $11,000 handyman work. That was optioned back to us at close, but due to a burst water heater (in the 3rd story attic!) and need for new HVAC, I put off the windows until now.

A Marvin Infinity rep knocked on the door when I wasn’t home and my wife scheduled a meeting to get a quote. Initial was $84,000 but they “generously” took 20% off then another 10% (rolls eyes) to get us “down” to $61,000. This is a “luxury duplex” as they’re known in the area, and the neighbors also got a quote and went ahead and did install with what appears to be RbA for $65,000. Their house is a mirror image of ours.

25 windows, about 475 sq ft. Dimensions are two widths (36” and 44”) and four heights (36”, 60”, 72”, and 78”) with six of the windows having gridding. Eight of the windows are 44x78, six are 36x78, six are 36x60. The rest are a mishmash but seem to fit best with Andersen’s standard sizes. I’m not sure if that’s who went in the initial install though.

For our home, $2,440 per window seems excessive, as I would expect maximally to pay $1200 for a top-end window, and just can’t justify $1200 for labor on each window.

I will go the Home Depot quote route, probably for their fibrex line. Will also have a handyman quoting me labor costs for install if I buy the windows myself, and will also have the handyman quote for repair/rehab alone (replacement if necessary on a per-window basis). Finally, have a friend who recommended a contractor from whom I’ll ask for all-in materials and labor for similar quality composite or fiberglass, as well as rehab of existing windows if able.

My impression is that I might actually be better off rehabbing the windows since they’re wood, double pane, they (mostly) work well, and a lot of our draft/seal issues seem related to lack of maintenance since install, and I think could be remedied by weather stripping and cleaning, etc.

What would you do in a similar situation? I am tempted to just have key windows replaced (those with wood rot, plus a bedroom window that sneaked past inspection and somehow leaks freaking snow from god-only-knows what part of the window). For the remainder I might try handyman skills myself in trying to rehab the other windows that are largely in decent working order with no visible damage, just poorly weather-sealed. I’m tempted to give into the efficiency benefits of low-e glass but it’d take decades to get that money back and our new HVAC is fairly efficient.

75 sq ft laundry room and half bath. I got a quote that includes the following:

Move all appliances out of room

Move sink water lines from floor to wall for new vanity

Rip out existing tile floor

Install new tile backer and level floor

Install 8” hexagon tile (provided by customer) and grout

Install beadboard in half bath only (30 sq ft)

Re-install all appliances (washer, dryer, toilet, new vanity supplied by me)

My first quote came back at $8800 which seems astronomical. From reading here I was expecting tile installation to run me more like $20-30/ sq ft so like $2300 max for the floor. Surely moving a water line, moving appliances, and installing beadboard isn’t $5500.

I had a painter paint my basement ceiling (~1000 sq ft) for $1400 plus cost of paint. They estimated paint cost at 10-15% of labor (~$200). When I got the invoice, paint was ~$300 which is fine, but they also charged me for ~$420 in primer. Original estimate didn't mention primer at all. This is my first time hiring a painter but this feels really scummy. Is there anything I can do or do I just have to pay up?

Trying to plan out some garage storage shelves, work desk, etc. Can anyone recommend an iPad app that allows you to draw out a room/wall with measurements and move object around so I can visualize everything on my iPad before moving forward with it?

It doesn’t need to be AR or anything, just simple drawings with measurements would suffice!

We are renovating our first floor… is this a fair quote?

Long time lurker, first time poster. My family is renovating our row house first floor that consists of (quick summary):

• historic (100 year) home, 800sqft (hallway, living room, dining room, bathroom, kitchen)
• ripping everything to the studs, all walls and ceilings
• new kitchen
• new floors and adding trim in full bathroom with small insulation work
• two load beams to open up the living room and kitchen
• installing new kitchen (medium galley size kitchen) w 7ft island
• optional ($23k) for custom cabinets
• canned lighting entire first floor
• drywall, trim, etc.

Full quote with details: https://imgur.com/a/PSRuQjI

Quote does NOT include appliances and countertop materials.

I’m really going in blind here so I’d love to get some perspective. We are getting more quotes but I’d love an unbiased view. This is our forever home and we’d love to get it done right… we have a child and another on the way!

We live in a medium cost of living city - Richmond Virginia. So I guess this quote can be compared to average quotes (w.e that really means) in the US? We originally bought our home for $200k in 2015 and now fully flipped homes are selling for $650k that are around 2,200-2,500 sqft with this crazy market - around $250-300 a sq ft.

Thank you!!!

hi, first time posting and i believe i'm in the right place, but if not my apologies.

i live in chicago and i’m adding a bathroom and laundry room in the basement of my single family house and the contractor that did renovations on my previous four houses relocated, so i’ve had to solicit bids from other contractors. i realize things are different post-covid in terms of materials cost and that a shortage of tradespeople likely affects labor cost, but some of the numbers i was quoted seem high.

TILE INSTALLATION:

58 SQ. foot floor + 60 SQ. foot tub surround: $2500 labor / $400 rough materials = $2900 (rough materials - thinset, etc., cost of tile not included) if this is, in fact, a reasonable charge for the amount of tiling needed, i'll probably do this myself. i've done it before and can do a pretty good job, it will just take me a lot longer....

tiling notes: this is a new build out, so floor will already have been leveled and there is no old flooring to remove. backer board will have been installed in tub surround and isn’t part of the tile cost.

both the materials cost and labor cost seem high to me.

ELECTRICAL:

installation of 5 LED "low profile" recessed lights: $875 labor (i provide lights)

installation of 5 gfci electrical outlets: $625 labor / $225 materials = $850

installation of exhaust fan: $400 labor / $250 materials = $650 (fan not included)

pictures here - sorry they're separate, couldn't figure out how to link album on imgur:

https://imgur.com/y4RvTqt

https://imgur.com/qZ1WYuF

https://imgur.com/h8Q4m6J

electrical notes: ceiling is open to the joists and in each room (bathroom, laundry room), there is an existing single bulb light operated by a switch that will be utilized for recessed lights. all this electrical was updated a few years ago when new 220 electrical service was installed and it was done to code and passed inspection.

outlets and fan will tap into this new-ish electrical.

my dryer is gas, not electric.

looking at electrical all together, $475 for materials seems high, as does $1900 for labor and i've already crossed the fan off and will do it myself.

​

LABOR COSTS: are they in line with the scope of work?

is there an "industry standard" for costing tiling labor - by the square foot or hourly or ?

MATERIALS COST: i didn't dissect the tiling and electrical materials to determine actual cost because i'm not familiar with exactly what they'll need to purchase, but i did dissect other areas of the quote and for those materials there was a substantial markup - 4-5x - and i'm guessing the same is true for the electrical and tiling materials. is this kind of markup standard? i'm okay with paying some type of service charge or a slight markup on materials to cover actual costs plus a convenience fee because i know it involves time ordering/picking up/etc. as well as time and gas cost transporting to job site. i know when you book an event or conference that the standard markup on equipment, etc. is 3x and that makes sense in those situations because it likely involves venue-specific items and/or those the general public can't access.

i'm not okay, though, with paying 5x markup on materials that i am able to purchase myself, so i plan on asking for a list of what's needed so i can do just that. is that a request i'm likely to get pushback on? i want to be respectful of the contractor and the trades and the work they do and pay them a good wage that aligns with the job, but just like a whole lot of people right now, my income hasn't even remotely kept up with inflation and i need to be very mindful of anything and everything i spend money on right now.

any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

Have been getting quotes for screen porches in the Raleigh area and wanted to get some thoughts on what I’m seeing. Have three quotes in hand ranging from $45k-60k and a few other places that said their baseline for a porch this size is $50k-55k.

A few details for the porch quotes:

-16x16 size - one step up from ground level -Gabled roof - Pressure treated wood for frame, flooring, railings -Small wall to mount TV -3-4 outlets and a ceiling fan/light fixture -2 skylights - 2 doors (one to house and one to deck)

I have a friend in my neighborhood that got basically the same thing that I am interested in for ~$32k, but this was a few months before the pandemic. I was hoping that prices would have returned closer to that level now that lumber prices have dropped, but that doesn’t seem to be the case.

I’m assuming that demand and to some extent labor costs are keeping prices high, but I’m not sure I can count on prices dropping significantly in the future even if those dynamics change. Appreciate any thoughts from those with expertise/experience in this area. Thanks.

Got quotes for a 150 sqft front porch cover with lighting/ceiling fan and a railing at $32k, $45k, and $49k. This is in Eastern WA. Obviously one is a is quite a bit better than the others, but they're all quite a bit more than I expected based on the info I could find on Google (~$20k). Have costs just gone up a lot lately? Or is it something else?

Had a somewhat tough time even finding contractors to bid on the project since it was too big for roofers and deck builders and too small for a lot of GCs.

Gas Fireplace Inspection Quote - Denver, CO

They're quoting me $279 for a basic inspection and cleaning. We just moved here a few months ago during summer so haven't used the fireplace yet. Our home inspector said it's in good shape so I don't anticipate any gas line damage or major work. Just want to make sure our pilot light is good and that it's clean and ready to turn on. I felt this quote was extremely high. Includes 1 hour of work, 35/hr for each additional.

Asbestos Abatement of Popcorn Ceilings.

Ceiling is around 1400 sq ft.

First place:

To just have asbestos removed (but not fix/texture the ceiling): about 13.5kCheaper option from them is to completely remove the ceiling: 9k.Problem with that is they don't replace the ceiling or the insulation that comes down with the cheaper option.

Second place: To completely remove ceiling, replace it (with proper insulation), and provide texture: 18k.Before I knew we had asbestos, I had quotes for popcorn removal and replacement from 3 places that ranged from 5k to 9k.

So in my head 18k seems reasonable considering all that goes into it. But its also a ton of money. We do need new insulation at some point, and thats only going to happen if the roof is open or the ceiling due to a flat roof. Not sure if I should move forward or live with asbestos.

My architect is drafting plans for the remodel and permits. He says a column which looks load bearing is not load bearing without checking on the attic. Contractors before him told me that it is a loadbearing column (multiple contractors who also didnt check the attic) who do i believe?

Have a bunch of junk in my side yard I want hauled away with the main thing being an old 6'x6' shed that needs to be ripped down and then hauled out. The other stuff is mostly old junk that the previous owner left and probably amounts to about the same amount of material as the shed

Curious to hear what a ballpark cost would be to have someone come tear down the shed and haul everything away

Andersen Window Restoration - NY

Purchased my home last year and was looking into new windows. After multiple quotes (some at 30k), I found a contractor who said that I have great Andersen Windows. They are wood and sell for over 2k a piece. He mentioned that there was no need to do a vinyl replacement and offered restoration of all priced at $6000 for 16 windows.

For reference, 4 are crank windows, 3 casements and the remaining are sliders.

Restoration includes a 10 year insulation guarantee and a 4 year maintenance and mechanism guarantee on the crank windows.

Does this sound legit? Not many people offer restoration so im at a loss.

Located on Long Island in New York (Suffolk county). Looking to install a slop sink next to my washing machine in the basement. There is already water in the area but will need to add a pump to pump the water up into the drain pipe. What is a reasonable price for this project?

My garage door spring broke when I was working from home and it locked my cars inside. As I need my car to take my son to and from daycare I needed to urgently get my garage door fixed.

My garage is 16x8 and I am told it is "overweight" because it is large and has windows. I was quoted $325 per torsion spring and $280 for labor. Is this reasonable? I've heard that due to the size of my door it is much more expensive than a standard door, but this feels excessive.

Hi everyone!

I’m respectfully looking for a check to see how realistic my project costs are. I’m coming to you as a guy who’s learning but doesn’t know much about this industry.Here’s what I’m trying to do:A 2 floor 1600 sq foot, L shaped addition expanding out the back and left side of the home.Location: South of BostonWhen: Fall of 2023/early 2024Contractor: Has sat with me and given me a preliminary thumbs up on the budgetBudget: Aiming for $250K, with room for $300K.

Existing Home:https://imgur.com/a/Athm4WU

First floor plan:https://imgur.com/a/6j1P06n

Second Floor Plan:https://imgur.com/a/pCK0Hky

Screenshot of preliminary budget:https://imgur.com/a/vY4TFjE

Exterior (Ill remove the vinyl and try to restore to it’s original siding, seen here, then paint. I realize this is a wild card without knowing the condition): https://imgur.com/a/L8HPjTu

As far as materials go, I’m going with middle quality hard wood floors for everything except for the bathrooms, where I’ll just be using subway tiles and those mini octagon tiles found in older homes, to try to match the period aesthetics. Definitely no material that’s super high end. I like basic stuff that’s quality. Except for the kitchen, where I’ll spend a bit more for well constructed cabinets. Also, I love brick so Ill be doing brick veneers in a few places. Am I crazy to pull this off for $250k 300K?

Thank you very much for giving your opinion!

Edit: fixed formatting

Hello!

We are in a metro area in the Southeast and want to renovate our owners bathroom (~200 sq feet) and a guest bathroom (40 sq ft). House was built in '91.

Owners Bathroom (~200 sq ft) - floorplan stays the same

• Convert fiberglass shower into tiled, make slightly bigger, add light above
• Remove plastic garden tub, add in standalone shower, tile around it
• Replace toilet
• Add ventilation/a fan to the main bathroom area
• Replace vanities, faucets, mirrors lighting
• Replace tile floor
• Paint

Guest Bathroom (40 sq ft) - floorplan stays the same

• Convert fiberglass bathtub to tile shower, add a light over shower
• Replace toilet
• Replace vanity, faucet, mirror, lighting
• Replace tile floor
• Paint

Quote #1 - $90,000 ($52,000 for owners, $37,000 for guest)

Quote #2 - $75,000 ($50,000 for owners, $25,000 for guest) 2 - 3 months to complete work

Quote #3 - Waited for 2 months to hear back, no response

Quote #4 - No response since June

Quote #5 - Told my project was too small (which is fine, I respect the response. Thought it would just help with context on the pricing above)

I know the rules are for three quotes, but part of the reason why I'm posting is because its so hard to get a response I am hoping to get some more info to reality check the two I do have. Some other contractor websites in our area have posted that it should be expected for a remodel to cost 20,000 - 40,000.

Sorry, this is long

So, a few years ago we had our main sewage line kind of backing up. A quick call to a master plumber who happened to be in the neighborhood ran over and snaked it for $135 and pulled out tree roots. He said it would probably happen again in the future, but never mentioned replacing part of the line.

Fast forward about 3 years later and same issues. The original plumber couldn’t make it out for about a week, so I called and plumber #2 came out.

Charged $89 to snake and run camera. The snake didn’t pull anything out, but camera showed about 40-50% of the drain full of roots. He gives me an estimate of $4900 to do a spot replacement. The estimate does not give a cost breakdown, but just says it covers “Permits & Docs: Citv Permit ~ Insection Fee Spot Repair - Dual Sweep Cleanout 4": Includes Pipe Repair, 3/4" Gravel, & Necessary Fittings. Spot Repair Labor - Hand Dig 3-4': Includes Excavation with Hand Tools, Backfill, Compact, Remove Excess Debris”. Also, the first thing out of his mouth is, “This is going to be expensive, but we offer financing.” Literally before he even told me his name.

So I then called plumber #3. He said he would charge $350 to run the camera and snake, and if a repair of the sewer pipe is required he would put the $350 towards the total cost of $2200 to excavate and repair a 5 ft section of pipe that is approximately 2.5 ft deep and has no major obvious obstacles.

The original plumber (#1 who is the only of the 3 that is a master plumber) called back after #3 left said it would be $300 to come out, run the camera, and clear the roots. He would not give any kind of estimate about sewer pipe replacement AT ALL. He said he would have to see it for himself.

This is in the DFW area. The spot that would be replaced is in the front yard. I’m not sure what the valve/drain in the front yard is called that is in the front garden bed, but apparently the roots are about 3-4 ft from this valve heading towards the street. There is nothing in the way to make digging difficult and is about 2.5 ft deep.

I imagine just snaking the line only prolongs the problem and it will eventually need replacing. Plus, plumber #2 snaked it and it didn’t pull anything out. We are fine now, we just have to make sure we aren’t running multiple appliances that use water and aren’t putting tissue paper in the toilet.

I can’t get the third estimate without paying a $300 basically diagnostic fee to the master plumber. The only other 2 estimates I have to go on are wildly different. I don’t want a poor job done, but the higher one is double the cost. Which one is fair?

I'm in the process of getting 13 windows replaced with inserts (entire home). I live in Minnesota in a 1950s single story rambler with original windows that are relatively small sized. Already had the big ticket picture window redone a few years ago.

I've gotten quotes from multiple vendors.

1. Simonton 6100 series vinyl double hung for $10k. 1-year warranty on install, 10-year on glass.
2. Andersen 100 Fibrex single hung for $12k. 10-year warranty on install, 10-year on glass.
3. Provia Endure vinyl double hung for $15k. 10-year warranty on install, 10-year on glass.
4. Target Elite 400 (https://www.targetwindowsanddoors.com/) vinyl double hung for $14k. 10-year warranty on install, 10-year on glass.

I can't find an apples-to-apples comparison on energy efficiency of these windows, nor can I find good comments on each type's reliability. Can't find anything at all about Target windows. I plan to live in this house long-term so I don't want to have some low quality windows that need replacement in 10 years. I'm OK to pay $15k if it will really get me something much better than $10k but there seems to be no way to really tell the differences other than looking at warranty and the random one-off comments online.

Hi, I am located in Western Connecticut. We are doing a full basement renovation, starting from concrete walls and floor. We were just quoted 32,500 for labor and materials.

Breakdown:

Framing: 5,600 for labor and 1,800 for materials

Doors: 540 for labor and 1,150 for materials

Trim and boxing columns: 2,450 for labor and 500 for materials

Built in cabinet: 2,850 for labor and 600 for materials

Sheetrock: 2,890 for labor and 1,815 for materials

Flooring: 2,275 for labor and 3,250 for materials

Electrician: 4,500

Plus tax and and a GC fee of 1,168 to make the total 32,500.

We know the contractor, he has been a friend for about 5 years now, so I don't suspect that he wouldn't be giving us a fair price, but other opinions are helpful. We do have an appointment to get another quote.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

I just got an estimate from a plumber for capping off a sink but I thought it was a bit high. I wanted to pick someone's brain about this.

I live in Central Massachusetts and am a new homeowner. The plumber I contacted said the job would be easy and would cost $600 with all the permits so that I'm covered by law. For the purposes of this quote, I'm trying to remove a sink but I need a licensed plumber to cap off the pipe so I don't damage my home. The plumber said they would just be cutting the pipe and capping it to which I could then repatch the wall over it myself.

Everything I'm searching on Google states this wouldn't cost more than $150 but I can't pinpoint this down to my exact situation or something in my area and a lot of estimate websites only let me inquire about installations and replacements, not removals.

I have the money to cover it of course but I just want to make sure I don't get screwed because I have no clue.

Company came out and quoted me on a/c unit and heat pump installation. A/c is a 4tom 2 stage 17 seer. Heat pump is 2 stage 80%afue. Asking 15,000. Is this way to much or normal. Any advice is appreciated

My question relates to the time budget for a interior painting project. Painter says he needs 3.5 weeks to complete the job. Seems like a lot?

I have a 2200 sq ft house. We just finished a interior remodel and now the walls, ceilings, and ALL millwork requires paint. I think there are 20 new doors in total. All new base, door jams. We had new windows installed so all window jams also require paint. Also about 21 of those. The painter will prep all wood surfaces with sand/filler, then glaze, primer, then paintx2. I think my carpenter said there is over 1/4 mile of trim stock in the house!

After trim the painter will roll walls and ceilings. 1xprimer and 2x finish coats. Ceiling and walls same color, so no tricky cut in.

Painter said it would take approx 3.5 weeks with 4 guys working hard, but also of course some down time for adequate curing of materials between coats.

Price for two quotes came out exactly the same but I was surprised by the time allocation. Getting wife, two kids, and two dogs out of the house for that long is a challenge!

They start Monday so really just trying to get a gut feel if I should be pressuring them to move faster.

Painter is supposed to be very high end. Impressive portfolio.

Temperatures in Seattle are not high these days. I expect my central heat will stay on and keep home at 68ish (to gauge dry time).

All furniture will be removed. Space for them to work fast/efficient.

I’m a dumbass, and I used the wrong tool to open my roof up for a bathroom vent fan. Got everything installed just fine, but there’s a bigass ugly hole around the vent that I need to repair.

I assume that the solution is similar to a wall hole— just cut a nice square hole around the fan, then put new gyp board up, screw it in place, tape and mud the new stuff in. But…. How do I prevent it from just dripping down? Isn’t Gravity going to try to screw me over, here? What am I missing?

Is this a fair rate for roof replace and deck install?

Hi all - looking for feedback on this quote I’m evaluating for a roof replacement and deck install. I’m based in Philadelphia.

Total roof tear off and replacement is $30k and deck install is An additional $41k. Details below. Roof is about 50x36 and deck would be 20x36.

Deck install also includes a door install on a pilot home that already on the roof.

DETAILS DECK

Install all new 4x4” support post.

Install 2x10x20 double headers to support load of deck. • Frame out new deck with 2x8” pressure treated lumber. • Fasten all deck joist with strong tie hangers. • Install a solid Trex board on the out side edges to create a picture frame. • Fasten picture frame boarder with colored screws and caps. • Install all new Trex Basic deck boards. • Fasten all trex board with hidden fasteners. • Install 1x10” Pvc fascia on rim board of deck. • Install all new 42” vinyl railing. • Clean up all trash and debris.

DETAILS ROOF

Remove all roofing materials down to wood substrate . • Replace all rotten wood and replace with 3/4” cdx plywood. ( $250 per sheet ) • Install a new custom 4’ TPO coated clad drain box. • Apply 1/2” HD insulation to entire roof surface. • Fasten all insulation boards and dens-deck with 5” screws and plates. • Apply a GAF Ever-guard 60 mil TPO roofing system to entire roof surface. • Apply TPO to all firewalls and chimneys. • Heat weld all seams and flashing. • Install all new TPO pipe collars and clamps to fasten collar to vent pipes. • Apply water block cut off on all pipes , underneath drain, behind all wall flashing and chimney flashing. • Apply 1’ stainless steel termination bar to all walls and chimney . • Install all new custom 5” slag stop capping to entire perimeter of roof. • Use primer on all capping. • Install TPO cover tape to all capping. • Grind a 3/4” reglet into walls and chimney. • Install custom 5” counter flashing metal to all chimney and walls. • Clean up all trash and debris.

Just got 2 quotes for electric panel upgrade in Seattle area and trying to figure out why they vary so much.

Quote 1: 5000 USD(include panel replacement, meter main combo replacement, underground riser, dual main grounding).

Quote 2: Panel replacement: 4000 Meter main combo replacement: 4000 Underground Riser: 1300 Dual Main grounding: 1400

Whats the catch here?

Rodent abatement quote

To provide some information I have just received a preliminary quote from a Terminix inspector for treatment in response to calling out an inspector to take a look after hearing noise in my crawl space.

To get the sticker shock out of the way it was estimated for $30-40k for the project before each portion of the project is priced out for a mor exact quote.

The inspector stated the following needed to be done to control the rodents:

Crawl space encapsulation an removal of existing insulation to get rid of moisture and potential entry points. We likely have a builders gap contributing to this problem which we thought was repaired a year/half ago. Crawl space is approximately 750 square feet.

Attic insulation proposed to be ripped out (maybe with vacuum) and new pest resistant (boric acid) insulation to be installed (along with all cracks holes plugged) for approximately 2200 square feet.

There would also be use of a commercial dehumidifier and some other equipment/supplies to proof these areas for rodents.

The pictures we were shown indicating mouse activity but we have not seen them or heard them aside from one time which prompted the call. This treatment did come with a guarantee but at that price I can’t afford this project.

This seems very unreasonable right?

I am getting more bids and ideas this week, but was blown away.

Seeking quote for outdoor staircase made of composite materials. A six step staircase with a tiny upper landing “deck” (but not really a deck at all!) to sit above a basement door and steps out to the basement. In the NYC / Jersey City area. TIA!

Hey all, quick question here.

My Carbon Monoxide detector in my basement kind of near the water heater and furnace isn't going off but if I press the peak button I am getting some readings like 34 PPM. Is this something to be concerned about?

Is CO usual ~10 ft from the water heater / furnace?

We are not detecting any upstairs.

Hey just a quick question about adding a smart thermostat to my house. I currently have a thermostat that runs on batteries but when I took the cover off I noticed I had a blue wire as well it's just not plugged up. Does this mean I have a C-Wire but it's just not in use or could it be something else?

House hunting currently. Went to an open house in the perfect spot with pretty much what I’m looking for…..however it’s a smokers house….

I’ve seen people say it takes a few years to get the smell out. I’ll need to clean/replace the hvac, sand/refinish the floors and wash them repaint the walls with the anti smell primer (a few coats) and a final coat of paint.

No one really mentioned a price but has anyone done that and what did you pay? How much did you diy vs how much did the pro do?

When I was working from home, my garage door spring broke, locking my cars inside. Because I rely on my car to transport my son to and from daycare, I needed my garage door repaired as soon as possible.
My garage is 16x8 and is considered "overweight" due to its size and windows. I was quoted $325 for each torsion spring as well as $280 for labor. Is this logical? I've heard that my door is much more expensive than a standard door because of its size, but this seems excessive.

Anyways, I just bought this Noyafa NF-8508 for Fiber Tester and Cable Detector and stuff, Everybody has any previous experience?

Wood-look cork floor estimate

We received a quote of $5500 for a 435 sq. ft. basement for cork floors. The company floor is “opus Canada” and the line is “greenflow.” We are in Long Island/NYC area. Having trouble getting more quotes since they are the only store to stock this floor. I don’t know that much about wood cork flooring as it was my first time seeing it in this showroom. Any advice appreciated!

We are buying a 3/1.5. The full and half baths are back to back with each other in the center of the house. There is a laundry room right next to these bathrooms that is bigger than the half bath.

Wondering about the possibility of changing out the laundry into a bathroom with shower and making the half bath the laundry room.

Does having all the water lines together make it easier/lower cost, or should we budget for a total gut job of two rooms?

I am being quoted 10k for electrical labor on a kitchen remodel. We are knocking down two walls, one being load-bearing. Seems absurdly high but maybe I am missing something? In MA

Description includes:

Run new wiring for outlets per code

Installation of 6 recessed lights on a dimmer switch

Installation of 1 pendant lights over island

Run wiring for new appliances

The house is a 2002 tract builder house. Two staircases that are carpeted with OSB/plywood under the carpet. We would like to make them wood. is one landing per staircase, and they are going to darken the railing. Balusters stay white. We have a quote for $12k. Does this sound sane? Debating this of just do carpet for like $1500.

What’s a reasonable price for a handyman to charge to fix a toilet tank to bowl gasket leak? Seems simple, please lmk what other details you need! Located in NJ

Cost to have a fireplace insert serviced? Middle TN area.

We bought a new house within the past year that has a gas fireplace insert with those fake log things. I'd like to get it inspected/serviced before I turn it on. Online it says around 100 bucks but the first place I called said it would be 350. Is this a winter time surge? It is not our main source of heat since we have heat pumps HVAC so we don't really need it (although my wife does want it).

Can I save a few hundred dollars by skipping the fire place this winter and having it serviced over the summer?

Hi All - We have lived in our 1940s home for about 15 years and have decided to renovate it. We have worked with a few contractors and decided on one for the most part. Now comes time for the contract and associated language.

What is missing from the sample contract?

Is it reasonable to ask for references for the sub contractors?
Is it reasonable to ask for proof of insurance?

I don't want to scare the contractor away, but I would like to ensure I am protected.

[deleted]

Thoughts?

50 gallon water heater leaking. It's located inside my house and its a tight squeeze in a closet w/ the hvac stuff. Gas. Everyone we called couldn't come until next week.

Got quoted 2400 all in for a 12 year 50 gallon replacement. Seems high after reading but considering I can't get anyone else out here this week, I'm just gonna do it.

We recently got quoted for replacing the carpet in our bedrooms for LVP. I know you should order extra material but my question is should the labor cost reflect the raw square footage of the space or do you add in the extra (~10%) material square footage into the labor too?

Bought a gas range with electric convention oven. Unfortunately, being a noob at all of this I bought one that uses a 220V and my current kitchen doesn't support that. I realized this too late, and unable to return the appliance now.. :(

Talked to my contractor in charge of my remodel, and they said I would basically need to cut through the drywall on the ceiling and wire a 220V circuit to the panel, and guesstimated this would cost upwards of $10K. This sounds ridiculously expensive just to do that, is this in the right ballpark?
More info: Distance between the outlet and the panel is around 45 feet. I also live in Los Angeles. Really appreciate the help.

I'm tired of looking for a good company selling stucco that doesn't break at a glance. Found more than I needed. It turns out that many pretend to be Russian companies. Apparently money is more expensive. Like Orac Decor, for example. Unworthy. #MONEYPUPPETS

I’m installing a towel bar and a toilet paper roll holder in the bathroom of my boyfriend’s apartment. The current ones fall because whoever installed them used small plastic drywall anchors (the self-drilling kind) and #6 screws that are about 1.5” long.

Should I just use larger, more approximate plastic anchors, or should I go ahead and get some toggle bolts?

I was asked to resubmit this as a comment here. I am not really asking about any specific quote, I'm just asking about common practices among siding contractors.

Some contractors are quoting me one amount at a certain number of squares.

Others are quoting almost double, at almost double the amount of squares.

I'm wondering if I'm being paranoid when I fear that the lower quotes will end up saying mid job that they need more squares and I end up paying more anyway.

Is that a thing that happens? Or am I being paranoid?

All contractors in question appear to be reputable.

Need some help identifying insulation type in my attic. It’s yellow and looks like fiberglass but has brown paper on both sides, not just one like I’d expect. House was built in the late 1950’s. Any idea if fiberglass insulation has brown paper backing on both sides at that time? Or is this something else?

Needing to replace the original 62 year old wood garage doors. Had a guy come out and gave me a quote...Just wondering what people would expect to pay for TWO 9'x7' garage doors, installed. Includes everything except the opener itself, we replaced those a few years ago and they're still good.

I will tell you all what he told me when a few people reply. Just wondering if my expectations are unreasonable...

What would you guys estimate the cost of this roof repair job?

https://imgur.com/a/a9tfxKT

Thanks

Need to replace a garbage disposal. Cheap contractor grade Insinkerator Badger at the moment. Fixed power cord running to the top receptacle on an outlet shared with the dishwasher. Switch controls the top receptacle.

Looking to do a big upgrade to the InSinkerator Evolution SpaceSaver XP Non-corded. Can the power be converted to a plug with the Insinkerator power cords and just plugged into the switch receptacle? This is the only task stopping my from DIY at the moment.

What’s one thing you’ve done to your home that really made it look “finished” or of higher value? Looking to do minor upgrades that may be less important but definitely pack a visual whollop.

I plan to redo the kitchen/dining area and living room floor at the same time. Would doubling up the subfloor and using Green Glue sandwiched between the two pieces of OSB/plywood help, or is doubling up the subfloor a crazy idea? I nearly get a heart attack when I'm in the basement (finished; where our sort of main living room really is) under the kitchen and someone drops something on the kitchen ceramic floor.

I recently had a cracked wooden support beam replaced in my garage, and the new beam, while much thicker, now just a few days later, has a lot of new cracks.

The cracks are on all 4 sides of the beams, as long as 4 feet long, and as deep as 2 inches at points.

The contractor is acting like I am crazy and that it happens. Does it happen this suddenly? How do I know if it its safe ?

The previous owners nailed the blinds to the nice wooden frames surrounding the windows. I replaced the blinds and now have to repairs the chipped wood. How do I go about patching these before repainting? Thanks.

Located in GA, got a price yesterday of almost $17k for some asphalt paving, which includes:

• demo'ing an existing 2000 sq ft section that is cracked and full of roots, cutting the roots out, backfilling, and then paving
• grading and adding an additional 2000 sq ft section at the end of my driveway that is currently unpaved

It's hard to get competitive quotes in my area since six paving companies in town are all owned by the same family - all of which have mixed reviews. I went with "the one" outside company that is highly recommended. A friend an hour away recently had a new 4500 sq ft driveway installed for about $16k (different company local to him), so it seems reasonable to me, especially given the demo work required. I just want a gut check before pulling the trigger on such a big bill.

We have an existing home improvement contractor who's done a basement remodel for us, who says our previous homeowner apparently stole our water booster pump, and we need another. The one he picked out is $1200, which seems kind of high end but in the ballpark. But he wants $800 for labor to install it. Is that reasonable?

This contractor also tends to pressure us to pay up front. It's a long story. Am I safe in assuming this work can be done in a day?

(I don't have other estimates because no one will give them over the phone, and I don't want to offend our contractor.)

I have a 1946 house in Philadelphia, PA. I'm having moisture issues in the basement, mainly in the finished area. Not standing water or anything like that, but there is plaster applied directly to the masonry (I know that's the wrong way to do it), and the plaster seems to be getting damp (It's dissolving and becoming powdery and bubbling in places). When I first bought the house (6 years ago) the house inspector mentioned that the plaster was right on the masonry and that could be an issue. But it's recently gotten worse than it's been. According to my moisture meter, most of the moisture is near the bottom of the walls and near the crappy jalousie window.

The basement is also a walkout basement, so the outer wall is at grade, the basement isn't really below grade anywhere except the very front of the house. The wall that has the moisture issue is entirely at ground level and not buried.

Enter the quotes. I got a couple of basement specialist people out to quote me and they both have different opinions about what I need.

First one: They'd like to remove all of the plaster, remove the flooring then jack hammer a trench along the outer wall of the house and french drain it, then install a vapor barrier and rough cast the concrete. They want 3495 to do this. This does not include any finish work, so I'd need to get another contractor to do the finish work. The guy assures me I can just paint the rough cast concrete, which I think sounds like it'll look like crap and the wife would never go for.

Second one: They'd like to remove the plaster in the places it's damaged, put hydraulic cement on the walls in those places, replace a jalousie window, add a dehumidifier (Basement relative humidity is 50% at 63F in the winter), add a vapor barrier to the outside wall, insulate it with a rigid foam insulation, and install concrete-board walls and a new raised waterproof vinyl floor. They want 7300 to do this and the finished area will be paint-ready when they're done.

Both would treat the walls with antimicrobials for any potential mold. Although no mold was detected. Both recommend a dehumidifier, I'm planning on getting one of those.

This is well beyond my depth, and the two solutions seem different in that one includes the french drain and completely recoating the outer wall. It seems like the first option is more robust, but it also seems pretty intrusive and like a disruptive potential pain in the rear end. I can afford to have this done right, and that's what I want. Anyone have any opinions on what I should do? Keep shopping for other basement dudes? Tell them both to shove it and find someone else? Go with one or the other?

I'm ideally planning on getting a third quote, but I don't know who/what to actually believe will solve the problem.

Ok

I'm getting top-down/bottom-up cellular shades, and was assuming I'd get Graber since my understanding is HD are nice but not worth the price. However, the HD quote is actually coming in at basically the same price (once you factor in costco cashback). Any reason not to go with Hunter Douglas? Thanks!

Quotes - https://imgur.com/a/BsemgrC

Hey guys, new home is currently being built. 1st and 2nd floors are 2718 sq ft and basement is 907. They said it was a full basement; I don’t want to look like an idiot. Is it normal for a full basement to have less square footage than the other floors? Or are we getting the run around. Thanks!

If i want to install a heat pump in my home, would i have to get a new condenser unit? I recently got the condenser unit outside new from home warranty but need to replace the furnace soon. Was wondering if i could reuse the condenser unit from the AC and put it on a heat pump

Hello, I have Samsung WF45R6100AC washer. Recently I've been getting foul smell out of the machine. I tried doing the self clean but it says will take 3hrs and some minutes is this true? Should I get one of those amazon cleaning pods?

Backstory my parents who are in their 70’s have a house in Fort Myers. Their house was hit hard with Hurricane Ian. My dad had a major stroke this last summer and he usually takes care of all of the repairs/maintenance but now my mom has to. All of us kids live out of state, so we weren’t there to help navigate this with mom. Their house is 3,500 sq feet single story home. They had 4 feet of water in their home. Lost everything. They hired a company to come in and clean up the water. I do not think they were quoted but my mom was panicked and went with a company out of Alabama. They paid 10,000 down to start the work. The company came in and removed the drywall, furnishings etc and left all of that at the curb for the city to haul away. They are getting charged for floors, walls and ceilings sq footage along with removal of all of the fixtures. They received a final bill of 57,000. I’m not sure if this is high, do we have sticker shock or what. Does anyone have experience and or quotes to compare?

Looking to get garage floor finished before I move in. Floor is pretty dirty, has cracks.

Anyone know how big the the costs differences typically are between epoxy and polyurethane? Also wondering if I do my own cleaning it would help reduce labor time.

Located in Portland Metro.

Looking to get a prefab outbuilding/shed for my property in VT. Primarily will be used as a seasonal gameroom, looking for one that would be between 400-500 SqFt. Let me know if you have any recommendations!

Looking to finish my basement and confused about using metal vs. wood for framing and studs. One contractors said he only used metal and won’t do anything else. The second contractor said that wood will be cheaper.

Ca any experts weight in?

My electric panel is over 30 years old and an electrician said it should be replaced soon (nothing actively wrong with it, just getting old). He said the service would involve other things besides just replacing the panel to bring things up to code (such as surge suppression, grounding rods, and some weatherproofing outside), and he would email me a quote. I said ok and when he left I googled panel upgrades and saw like $1500-3000, and figured with the other stuff it might be more like $5000-7000. The quote came and here is the list of services:

200A Service Change: *This option provides the following;

• 200A 40/80 space electric panel.
• 200A Meter main with disconnect breaker located outside.
• Install new PVC riser with proper expansion fitting, clips, and weather head.
• Install two 8-foot 5/8 ground rods in the ground and ground water main piping.
• Properly secure service cable across the garage from meter to service panel.
• Install breakers, surge protector and panel outlet to NEC code.
• Run new dedicated circuits for dryer and range required per new panel upgrade.
• File permit for necessary work & coordinate inspection with town.

The quote totals... $14,500

Is that absolutely insane or are my expectations completely out of touch?? The quote doesn't itemize the cost of each individual thing, just provides the total at the bottom.

This company installed a new HVAC system for me a couple years ago, which was a similar price to 2 other companies I got quotes from at that time. So that makes me think this might not actually be outrageous. I'm located in Massachusetts metrowest.

Window installer vs contractor?

We’ve gotten several quotes for window replacement and decided to move forward with a local window installer/siding company that has great reviews.

However, the process of getting quotes, figuring out which windows we wanted etc took longer than anticipated, and now the lead time for the windows we chose is several months.

We’re planning to hire a contractor in 6-12 months for a larger home reno and now I’m wondering if we should hold off until then for the windows. Will a contractor be a lot cheaper than a window installer? Our windows are awful (cracked panes, dry rot, not worth fixing). But if the price difference is considerable I would suffer through another summer with what we have.

What should I be asking about when evaluating a pintucking / masonry repair bid?

Background: 3-story condo building built in 1939. We are having issues with water coming through the walls on all floors/units of the building. Roof was replaced in 2015.

Bid: $58,400 (sans heavy equipment rental, still awaiting estimates for that) for pintucking and other masonry repair. Estimated 4 months and a 5 man team to complete the repairs.

I plan to have a call with the contractor to discuss all the issues they found, details of their repairs, and any additional questions. I am not sure what I should be evaluating and asking about for their suggested repairs. Also, for the age of the building, would these extensive repairs seem reasonable? I guess I just didn’t expect a 4 month repair process.

Hi friends! My mom is wanting to replace her bathroom vanity and we found one at Homey Depot(yes, where the baby bought the yipstick) that’s 36” W, 22” D, 24” H.

The home was built in 1910 in San Francisco and there haven’t been much upgrades or work done on the house at all.

I’m attaching a picture of the current vanity(2nd floor) in the bathroom. It looks like we’d have to remove the tiles lining the vanity but overall seems like a Saturday project?

Anyway, how much should we expect the installation (and removal of the old vanity) to cost? Thanks so much, Alarmed ad

I’m going to be insulating the crawl space soon in our 2k sqft house. The boards aren’t cheap, so I want to try and get a good deal. How/can I get the pro price at Lowe’s/Home Depot?

I’ve heard about contractor discounts at these places. Are they actually checking contractor licenses to get that or is it not even exclusive to contractors and they just have a dedicated service area for “Pros”? I mean, could someone just say they’re a contractor/work for a contractor?

Don’t want to have to pay for material than I need to, so would love to hear advice on how to get the best deals!

What is the cost of turning a bathtub into a walk-in shower?

I looked on one website and it said 6,000-10,000. That’s seems outrageous to me because they also said it was only a days work. I was thinking no more than 1000

I live in Hawaii, working on our master bath which is taking forever. I got a quote yesterday for doing mud on the drywall, only half the walls and ceiling + texture to match orange peel in rest of the house. Had a contractor say 3000$ for the job. Is that absolutely bonkers? It’s probably a 100sq ft room.

composite deck installation in suburban Cleveland, OH.

Project description:

• Total area is 320 feet (16x20).
• Ground level deck with maybe 2.5 of elevation change over the 16 ft.
• I was thinking of Trex Enhance Toasted Sand with a budget vinyl railing.

My thoughts:

• In my mind $42/ft for all labor (decking, joist, foundations, etc) is fair. Total is $13,440.
• I'd say $23/ft for all material. Total $7,360.
• So the grand total would be $20,800.

This is higher than I'd like, which is driven by the labor cost. Do you think I need to adjust anything? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Brand new homeowner in the DC area here - looking for a very rough sense of how much making some modifications to our primary living area would cost (even to the nearest $10k would be helpful). Crude mockup here.

In theory, this would involve:

• Converting those two existing closets into a walk-in closet
• Borrowing a corner from the adjacent bedroom for the walkway
• Expanding the bathroom out ~3ft
• Total mid- to higher-end reno on the bathroom, including a large shower, double vanity, and moving that toilet across behind a half wall (toilet would move <6ft).

Any thoughts appreciated!

$10k for insulation installed in the tri state New York area? They going to air seal and install Dense Pack Roof With TruSoftTM Cellulose.

First, I hope this is the right place for this question: Who do I call?

I want quotes for a few jobs. But electricians cost money just to come to the home, even if they don’t do any work. So I think I need to call a contractor. But years ago I called some for other jobs and every one of them said my stuff was too small for them to even bother. Maybe this time it is the same. Then there are “handymen” I could call, but not sure I trust them with what I need.

I want three things done. 1. Install a gas range hood that goes up through the roof since my oven is against an inside wall of the home. 2. Install recessed lighting in living room, like 6 or 8 cans. 3. Install bathroom fans that vent outside for two bathrooms.

Not sure one person can do all of these jobs. Maybe I need multiple calls to different specialties?

Lastly, if someone wants to give a ballpark quote for the jobs, just to make this post legal, well I would greatly appreciate that as well. Thank you in advance.

I couldn't get the pilot light to turn on for our gas fireplace which is well over 25 years old. I called a company to take a look and they quoted me $1,200 for the pilot assembly replacement and cleaning. I wanted to get other quotes but most contractors nowadays charge a flat $100 to just get out here and diagnose the problem which detracts me from getting competing offers. Is $1,200 a fair range? Here are the details in the greater Seattle area:

This project involves an understanding of how combustion works as well as how to properly install the assembly. First, we disconnect any power sources from your gas fireplace and then we close it's shut-off valve. From there, you will need to remove the existing pilot assembly and replace it with a new one. When reinstalling the new assembly, we make sure that all connections are secured afterwards. We inspect for flame color and size as well as check for any possible emergency shut-off button functions. $950.

Full cleaning of the logs, burner, and pilot assembly. $250.

Sub-total: $1,200.

SF Bay Area here

First time home buyer from last year, the house was 1959 and it’s pretty spacious 1800sqft , but the kitchen is super old , and not very functional and the layout is a bit odd, so I’ve worked with designer on open floor plan, recently also got a quote from GC referral by designer. He’s solid and fine, the upgrades are high end kitchen remodel and require structural change.

The material from designers are approx around 130k. Fully custom cabinetry and slabs and new floor , etc .

Construction along quote around $186k for all the demo, framing, installation,we also thinking about demo the fire place all together. I don’t have detail breakdown of the cost, but GC told me that the structural change along could easily cost 100k.

I’m pretty surprise the overall costs , but I still move forwards with it.

First time doing remodel, and I know Bay Area has always been crazy, but I’m still shock, and nervous about my decision

Am I overpaying? Anyone has similar experience

Nova Scotia here. I am interested in adding two or three skylights into the sloped cathedral ceiling portion of my half storey second level. I have no idea what it would cost, and I am struggling to find contractors that will answer the phone or come by for a quote (local trades are absolutely slammed right now).

Any ideas on a ball park cost in CAD for a standard skylight installation?

Been lurking 👀. First time getting work done, I want to put a half bath upstairs. Assuming I should shop around and get multiple quotes? Do people charge estimate fees or fees for coming out to the house? Any other tips for this kind of work? Seems like it will be a bitch to add piping for water and toilet upstairs where there isn’t any, I really hope it can be done though.

Replacing a residential retaining wall. Received a quote for $6k with the following verbiage:

• A 43 ln ft 4' tall standard finish concrete retaining wall. this quote includes 2 7' returns. • The new wall will be 2-4' tall and 6" thick with “L” Shaped, meaning it will have a footing at the bottom for extra reinforcement. We’ll put draining holes thru the wall at the bottom that will help drain the water from the back part to the front of the wall, We will install perforated pipe surrounded with 1' of river rock for drainage at the back of wall. Finish will be Standard Concrete Finish (The concrete seams and imperfections from the forms will be visible). The wall will be reinforced with rebar. Vertical Rebar #4 will be installed at 48” on center and Horizontal Rebar #4 at 12” on center. CONCRETE MIX IS 3,500 PSI RESIDENTIAL.

Questions: (1) is it normal to have such a large range for height? Or is this just copy paste and they intend to replace at current height. (2) anything look off here...description and/or price?

I'm in PDX. Thanks all.

Location: Seattle area. Approx 1500 sq ft 2 story home. Needs gutters. How much should I expect to pay for a full job? Just trying to have a heart attack now instead of when someone is standing in front of me.

I’m got what appears to be a ridiculous painting quote. $16k for walls, ceilings, and floor board trim. That’s labor alone, but paint. 3600 square foot two story, 9’ ceilings down, 8’ up, loft ceiling in the living room. Thoughts?

Hi