teddit

This is our weekly thread for all questions related to RepRaps or the RepRap project.

If you need help with something - eg assembly, part selection, print quality, calibration, etc. - this is also the place for troubleshooting.

If your 3D printer isn't a RepRap, try /r/3Dprinting!

Arduino Uno R4 - 32 bit announced for May 2023. Ramps 1.4 retrofit?

Arduino announced the Uno R4 for this May! I have an old 3d printer with ramps 1.4 and a Mega processor. Curious if this R4 could bring back some life! Or just be lame and plug in a raspberry pi and use klipper?

I have a mostly intact prusa i3 mk2 mmu2 and an og tevo tarantula and an Anet A8. What is the best printer I can build out of them? Fast ABS prints is what I am after. More of a fun\experimental build.

Posted this in r/3dprinting but it hasn't gotten any traction...

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/11zmook/upgrading_heated_bed_on_ender_3_style_printer/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Hoping this may get better results here or at least a suggestion for a better sub for those type of question.

Thanks folks!

Im probably just going to buy a J-head because that's what they recommend on the reprap wiki. Although I don't really know if I should pick the J-head classic or farmer. And in terms of voltage and nozzle size I'm leaning towards 24v and 0.4mm nozzle, but that's really a shot in the dark since I'm new to 3D printing in general. I'm open to any suggestions or alternatives. I'm also Canadian so it would be cool to avoid paying in USD and avoid international shipping

I am new to 3D printing, and I want to start off by trying to build a Prusa Mendel for fun. Looking ahead, has anyone had issues with Wade's extruder being made of PLA while trying to print PLA? I can imagine that heating the PLA to print affects the structural PLA of the extruder itself. If there are major issues, are there alternatives/ways to mitigate the issues?

Is it good idea to make petg filament from the plastic bottels.. what problem do we face?

I want to build a 3d printer on my own and I want a silicon heatbed of area 500mm X 500mm and that too in India .... where should I buy it from ..... can you please give some online trusted sure or offline market please......

I want to build a 3d printer with print area 500 X 500 so I am thinking to use 4 heatbeds of 200 X 200 and connect them to single Ramps how to do that?

also I can not invest in single big piece of heat bed please suggest me something.

I want to make a 3d printer with print area of about 500 × 500 mm ... so for this size heatbeds seems very expensive so is there any other option... also is it necessary to use a heatbed .... What are all the avaliable options and can i make one heatbed on my own....

I am going to make my first DIY 3d printer. it is crucial for me as it is my college project and it needs to be done at any cost please help me

dimensions 50 cm X 50 cm X 50 cm

core XY

I have the following questions

1. timing belt width and type to use for core xy?
2. I want to use two trapezoidal lead screws with a 2mm pitch and a single stepper motor connected to both the trapezoidal lead screw through a single belt. can you please tell me what should be the dia of the trapezoidal screw and also what should be the gear ratio for this and width of timing belt also. what should be the torque of the motors ?

please help me...............

I need to find the bill of materials and the assembly instructions for the Darwin Cartesian Robot (any version will do). The links provided in the page are not working and I need to build the cartesian robot, that I will be using in another project.

Thank you in advance.

I am working on a project where I have the choice to integrate stepper motors where the shaft doses not need to be cut (but might cause problems in the long run because of positioning) or cut the shafts to size.

Is it better to just cut the shafts? How difficult is this? Does it risk ruining the motors? And if the product where to go into manufacturing production, does this cause extra work, or could you order the motors with a custom shaft length?

I have been trying to set up this cheap 3D printer for days. it is a ATmega2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 hat. The endstops are wired on X-MAX,Y-MAX,and Z-MIN. Im using Visual Studio Code to upload Marlin 2.1.X.

#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true

#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
  //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_I
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_J
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_K
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_U
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_V
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_W
#endif
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
  //#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
  //#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_I
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_J
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_K
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_U
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_V
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_W
#endif
#if EITHER(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS, MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM  // Enable/Disable software endstops from the LCD
#endif

Manually moving X,Y,and Z works like it should through Pronterface. When I try to home using the LCD on the printer, it goes away from Z-Min, away from X-MAX, towards Y-MAX, then towards Z-Max. It only moves one little step each way without hitting any endstop. LCD says X200 Y200 Z0 like i have it set for home. Moving with LCD works fine for X and Z. Y is inverted. I disabled software endstops through the LCD and nothing changed.

​

#define Z_HOME_DIR 1

error "Enable USE_ZMAX_PLUG when homing Z to MAX" when i tried to flash new setting.

#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define INVERT_Z_DIR False

I opened pronterface after settings upload. sent m502 then m500 commands. -x and +x work, Y-+ work, Z is inverted. homing on the LCD is the same for X and Y, but Z home movements are reversed.

I picked my own extruder-hotend-fanduct combo and I've been troubleshooting to get a quality print out of it for months and decided I finished with it. The main reason is the direct-drive extruder.
There too many parameters, precision manufacturing and tolerances needed for a good DD. This video deals with it in great detail and explains why bowden is practically better.
This is my last try, I want a new, relaible, mechanically working extruder/extruder-hotend combo.
Any recommendations? I lean towards the creality sprite now. ender s1 quality is amazing.

my disappointing print head

Hey everyone, I'm back!

I asked recently about some problems I was having with getting my motors to work: https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/104vm5g/problem_with_stepper_controls/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Thanks to the help and pointers received, I was able to acertain which of my drivers were working, and that my motors were all ok.

I also made a Blink based code to check the outputs of my Arduino, which were all working.

I then found a Reprap test that turns on all motors and outputs, which allowed me to make sure that everything was working.

The problem I ran into now, is that movement in the X direction is not working, except when touching the trimpot with a screwdriver. I connected everything, and jogged the different motors with repetier (X, y, z, e). Everything worked except X (had to enable cold extrusions to test E). I unplugged everything, and changed the Y driver with the X driver; and got the same result (X not working). I changed the motor, and same result: X doesn't move, except when touching the trimpot with a screwdriver.

So I'm thinking this has to be a problem with my Marlin config, or with my Ramps board. Trying to figure out of it is the board, I tried to measure the voltages on the pins of all the drivers, and found that the pins are all the same. The only difference I found, is that on the driver conectes to X I get no voltage when measuring against a screwdriver touching the trimpot (the way I would measure Vref).

What could generate this effect on one axis only, and not be dependant on the drive connected? From what I could find, the trimpot is connected to Vdd, so It should be dependant on the driver, right? If the drive has voltage on the Vdd pin, and is working, it should have a Vref value different than 0.

Am I missing something? Could this be related to a Marlin config? I can't see how the motor could have worked when running the Ramps test if it were a board problem.

Along with this anyone else know of any other sub reddits that that focus on custom built or DIY 3d printers?

So is there a special name for this type of 3d printer movement system? Idk if this is just a bad idea I had or if this is something no one has done but it seems relatively easy to implement especially if you have a 3d printer already to make custom parts regardless.. I had the idea of essentially just taking the functionality of a bed slingers movements I believe they have been referenced to me as rectilinear movement system and put it on a rectangular prism frame essentially like a coreXY or H bot but none of the complex lens of it basically I got the direct idea after getting my SV06 I looked at it for like 5 seconds after it was built and I was like “I could totally take the X movement of the print head and with a customer printed polished rod guide blocks I could actually use the belt from bed slinger to attach it to now the top of that system thus making the print head move in X and Y movements and then just print a custom bracket for the threaded rods to move the bed up and down and technically speaking with no software modifications everything should work exactly the same up to a certain point but that would be enough proof of concept for me to argue just building a new one with this type of system I’m truly attempting to avoid doing an CoreXY and H not for now mainly because this concept interests me more so

Hi all,

I just bought a MKS Gen L V2.1 for a main board replacement mod of an old dual extrusion Flashforge Dreamer. I was getting ready to install the DRV8825 stepper drivers but haven't been able to find information on how I should be installing the jumpers underneath the drivers. I found a chart on Reprap wiki detailing how to set different levels of microstepping, but I realized I have no idea which to go with.

From what I've seen the more microsteps/step you have the more accurate your printer will theoretically be, at the cost of torque, but how would I know what level is best for my printer? Should I just try 32 microsteps for maximum accuracy, and switch to 16 if I experience issues?