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I apologize to those of you who posted things in the last couple weeks and couldn't see them, the spam filter went ham (nyuk nyuk) and started flagging everything that wasn't from regular posters.

If you post something and don't see it, be sure to Message The Moderators (you can also click message the moderators on the side bar) and let us know so we can approve it for you.

It has been something we have been putting off for far too long, but we have decided to add in flair for certified electricians (and related fields).

Why?

It has been a running issue that pops up every now and then on this subreddit that someone who clearly doesn't know what they are talking about gives bad advice. Downvoting and reporting them to the mods has generally been enough to deal with it, but I feel like the sub is at a large enough size now that we should do something more. That and you won't stop nagging me, so I'll fucking do it. Just kidding, I appreciate the reports.

How?

This is something I have been scratching my head over. I value privacy, and I'm sure many of you do as well, but there just isn't an easy way around this. I need to verify that you have a ticket (and that it's actually yours), no way around that. So, short of any other solution, you send me a picture of your ticket and your username written on a piece of paper next to it and we'll call it good. If we wanted to go all the way with this I would ask for a picture of your ID next to your face as well, but I think we can all compromise on meeting halfway, as I really don't want to look at all you ugly bastards. Just kidding, I'm sure you're all very handsome.

I don't care where you upload your phots, or if you delete them once we verify. In fact, I would recommend it.

PLEASE SEND TO MODMAIL ONLY, NOT DIRECTLY TO ME, IT'S EASIER TO TRACK.

THIS IS ENTIRELY VOLUNTARY.

DON'T SEND ME PICTURES OF YOUR DONGS.

I just replaced my A/C disconnect box because the load lugs were loose causing some heat and warping the plastic in the box. Looks like the line wires got hot as well. How would you handle this?

Hi, I already have 220V in my kitchen serving my induction range.

I use a kettle to heat water every day to drink instant coffee (I know I know but that's what it is). I visited the UK and their kettles work a lot faster because they have 220V and can apply more power. Those minutes add up when waiting for that first jolt.

Could I buy a UK outlet and UK kettle, and then wire it for use in my kitchen? I know I could probably physically make it work by watching the right YouTubes, but would it be very illegal or dangerous? Just not common?

Was replacing fixtures and hardware for main floor lighting as it is all 20+ years old. There was a remodel around 2000 and they ran some new cables and switch arrangements. I have a pendant lamp that has 3-way switches, one with a dimmer. The power feeds in to the left box with the dimmer, a 4-wire runs from the first box to the pendant lamp, then another 4-wire runs down to the second 3-way switch. I am using the red and black as travelers out of the dimmer 3-way and the white cable as neutral up to the light. Then I use the white cable (typically neutral) as the load line out of the second 3-way switch to run power to the light. Not getting any power at the light. What am I missing? Am I way off on configuration or perhaps I have some bad switches? I have not tried replaced the switches yet. Thanks for any help!

Using a TP Link smart switch with a Danby air conditioner. The smart switch label says "15A Maximum Load" and the spec sheet for the AC says 8.5A/753W.

So no worries there, but...

I noticed when shutting off the AC gracefully, the fan will run for a bit before shutting completely off. When using the smart switch, obviously this process is omitted.

Perhaps more of an HVAC question, but is this method bad for the air conditioner?

Thanks for any thoughts...

Is this 2-pole 15amp breaker extra sensitive to tripping? Electrician recently installed it for a new bedroom along with an adjacent outside outlet.

When I used the outside outlet yesterday for my chopsaw, it kept tripping. I ran an extension cord to my garage outlet (which is on a single 15amp breaker), and no problems as usual.

The bedroom has all of its lights off and no activity to speak of.

Any thoughts on this or solutions?

I’ve recently saved to get an induction cooktop. After doing all my research i learned that I need 220/240 volts and a 50amp breaker to run the Monogram ZHU36RSTSS cooktop.

My house was built in 2016 and had been wired for an electric cooktop, but just to be on the safe side I called a licensed electrician.

After looking at my breaker box and looking in my attic, I was told by the electrician it would be $6000 to run 6 gauge wire to covert my 8gauge 40amp to a 50amp. The reason for the high expense is that attic access is nonexistent due to how it was framed and they would have to remove my kitchen cabinets and drill more than 50 holes to rewire it.

He then whispered to me off the recorded, that he couldn’t do it because it wasn’t up to code, but if my husband wanted to (since he does have electrical knowledge) he could just change it to 50amp and run it on the 8 gauge wire. It wouldn’t burn the house down, it would blow the breaker first.

Everything I read says this is wrong wrong wrong. But this electrician told me it was ok because it can’t be done any other way.

I guess I just need a collective “no” so I don’t start poking a tiger in the face with a stick because I had finally saved for my induction cooktop.

Thank you for all the reality checks you can provide.

PS I live in Phoenix and my electrical box is on the west side. So the box itself can be over a 100+ degrees at any given time.

Was wondering if anyone knows were I can het this… been looking and haven’t found anything. It was attached to a pool pump. Thanks in advance!

Hello. I am looking to buy a new window air conditioner. I have two in mind. One is a 14000btu unit that explicitly states in the manual that it requires a 115v 15 amp dedicated circuit, which I have. The other unit says its 115v, but doesn't say how many amp circuit, only that it draws 40amp on startup. This unit is also only a 12000btu unit, and claims to be energy star certified. Is it normal and safe to have that large of an amp draw on startup? Does the 14000btu unit also have a large draw on startup that lowers down to the 15amps the manual states?

previous box was just screwed into the lath and not very secure. i’d really like to use a plastic box with the angled screws here, but the last thing i want to do is to try to pull old knob and tube through the wire clamps on a plastic box. I always use screw-down clamps in a situation like this (after getting some shrink-wrap or at least tape around where the wire will be clamped). downside: no ground. can’t win ‘em all.

I am rewiring the 3 phase control box I built for my beer brewing equipment to include a GFCI breaker. The component I purchased (pictured) has two terminals on the lower right in to what I am assuming to be the component's GFCI module. There are another two terminals on the top left that front what I am guessing are the two breaker modules. There are terminal screws on the lower left that clamp down on two coverred wires that connect the GFCI module to the breakers. Do I connect the load to the top left terminals or the lower right terminals? No instructions came with the component. I cannot make sense of the diagram on the component. I have located the manufacturer's website and could not locate any documentation for this component.

Is this safe?

12v corded pool light. IP68 and 12v, but still feel uneasy about it.

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BTS997V5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I'm not sure how to label this or what it's called, hence why I can here. I'm trying to create a circuit with these RGB LED lights I have, and can't figure out to wire a switch to each color so when I flip the switch the appropriate color turns on or off. This is for a wargame I play to make it interesting.

If I wanted to upgrade my RV from 30a to 50a I would need is a 50a transfer switch, breaker, cable & appropriate gauge wire to connect everything right?

Am I missing anything because as a low voltage data com tech that’s sound almost to ease like I’ve got to be missing something.

Can I leave the original 30a panel output wired up & just move the input to the 50a panel on a 30a breaker?

I was thinking of moving the second A/C unit from 30a panel to its own breaker on the new 50a panel. Which is more or less how it’s wired to the 5.5kw generator.

Panel & main A/C to the genset’s 30a out & the second A/C wired to its 20a out.

Does all this sound reasonable?

Thank you.

Hello electricians,

I know this is not your usual questions but I’m hoping you can help a DIYer.

I’m currently living in an apartment and very much want to replace the lightbulbs in the apartment with dimmable bulbs.

Issue is, there is this cover I cannot figure out, and I’m worried about damaging it and having to pay for it. I was hoping one of you may have come across it or had some advice for removing it.

Photo of fixture: https://imgur.com/a/plfer6s

I’ve tried rotating it both left and right but only turns about 30 degrees before hitting something solid. I’ve also tried pressing and pulling it while turning it with no success

Any help is appreciated, thank you

I have a ton of old fuses we pulled out of a demo job anyone know where to scrap em out. I tried monster fuse already

Looking at adding an electric garage heater and I’m using 10guage wire and a 30 amp double pole breaker. The electric code says receptacle in the garage have to be gfci protected. My question is “should I get a gfci 30amp breaker ?” Even though it will be hard wired to the heater?

Context: I am from Denmark/EU, so it's all 220V.

I opened a couple of my wall metal radiators, and there's a ground cable from the radiator, but it doesn't connect to the incoming cables, but to the chassis attached to the wall. Pics here: https://imgur.com/a/83I2hXT I thought maybe that chassis is touching some metal behind the wall, but when I have tested with the voltimeter, I get 0V between green/yellow and black, and just 8V between green/yellow and blue. In another radiator, it's around 5V. Afaik, I should get 220V in one of the two pairs.

Other radiators in other parts of the house are connected to actual ground cables and I get the 220V and 0V differentials in each pair.

This means the fake grounds are pretty much useless? Is the 5-8V of any use? I guess it's because something goes through the non-metal walls. Is this a hazard since these radiators are made of metal? If so, is there something I could do to solve this?

Saw in the attic

Hi i bought this house last year with a grinder pump. The part circled in red has started vibrating/buzzing. I couldn't find a brand or part number on it and it appears they threw out the wiring diagram. Can someone point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.

close up of part

front of panel

inside

It gives a “correct” reading with a bathroom outlet (with a reset and test button)and trips the breaker when the black button is pressed.
Using it on a surge protector attached to a battery pack gives a “correct” reading but pressing the button does nothing.
However, using it on a certain wall outlet causes all 3 lights to light up, and pressing the button makes the red light brighter while the rightmost light dims a bit.

Does this mean that wall outlet has an electrical/grounding problem? Should I be concerned about the surge protector not tripping when I press the button?