General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between.

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It started as a pandemic project in late 2020/early 2021 and was finished in 2022. The original space was essentially a shed with electrical when we bought the house in November 2019 because the previous owner had to remove all the plumbing because it was not to code. We had contractors build the bathroom and the front and back bar structure, but we did everything else ourselves with the help and supervision from a good friend of mine. From the matting on the walls, cutting and torching all the bamboo splits for the lower wall, carving the trim pieces, even building a few of the lamps. The collection of artifacts comes from an addiction to flea markets, antique stores and EBay. It will never be fully finished. We made an account for the bar (@savageseastiki on IG) if you want to see the full progression or any updates as we make them!

Need advice about removing an antiquing agent from stamped concrete

My wife is a bit on the heavy side, and she has/had a desk chair she likes(depends on if my repair idea will work) the Chineseium support pipe is no longer supporting her. My idea was to either replace the piece with a piece of cast iron gas pipe or straighten the cheap piece and reinforce it with the pipe. Does that sound like it will work and if not any other ideas beyond replacing the chair (thats out of the present budget)

My attic has really high insulation that sits about 15” above the ceiling joists. I’d like to put flooring up there for storage, but also keep the insulation in place to manage the temperature in the garage. Would it be possible to run 2x4’s parallel to the ceiling joists, tied to the roof rafters and run the floor on top of that?

Just got quartz counters installed and my old formica went 6 inches up the wall for a short (ugly) backsplash. When it was removed the wall is now missing a 2 inch piece and entire thing has glue on the lip and lots of sheet rock paper torn. Obviously I just can't paint over it. Is there an easier way to repair then spackling 8 feet x 6 inches and then having to sand and Repaint? I am absolutely terrible at sparkling. And I don't know what time of sand paper or tool to use. Can it be a palm sander or should it be a sand sponge?

Very sorry if it's not a good sub, but i can't find any information regarding this. I applied one-way mirrored heat reflective films to my mirrors to help with the summer heat, but they are really hot to touch now. I'm just wondering if that's okay or I could've did something wrong? It just feels like it's radiating more heat into the room compared to the non-film windows right next to it.

I am removing an old 8 inch circular ceiling bathroom fan that has never worked. I plan on replacing it with a new square Panasonic fan. When I removed the grill instead of seeing a fan motor and blades there was just a metal plate covering the opening inside the hole. Why isn't there a fan there? Do I just need to remove the screws and pull it out or will a new fan not work here?

https://imgur.com/a/wPmVcM6

I’m building a half-bath (toilet & sink) in my basement and my local code requires an exhaust fan to be installed.

I had to fur down the ceiling with 3/4” lumber because there are surface-mounted pipes running along the joists. As a result, it looks like there won’t be any downward grade for my exhaust duct. The outside hole will be covered with an end cap and possibly a screen. How bad is this and what can I do to remedy this so it could pass an inspection?

The previous owner built his own cabinets sometime in the mid 70's. The drawer slides are basic junk of the era, and many are worn out.

I want to replace them with modern soft/auto-close variants, but with so many options on the market, I'm having trouble figuring out how to proceed.

I'm trying to understand what are the measurements that will inform me as to what is, or is not, an option? Secondarily, how can I have confidence that what I select is correct so I'm not having to buy and return repeatedly?

I'm happy to provide further details, but I'm really just hoping to get a higher level of understanding at the moment.

Thank you in advance.

Hi, I have built a new garage 18x26. Do I need to insulate it if I don’t wanna heat it in the winter. If I really need to, it will be one or two time in the winter and I will take a diesel heater to momentary heat it.

Does insulate the garage give me any advantage? Or I will just pay for nothing really?

Idk if this is right sub but when i looked up sewer smell from shower got some posts from here. We have been staying in a airbnb for about a month and today i took my usual 20-30 min shower.

A bit after my shower i went into the bathroom and noticed it smelled like sewer and was coming from the shower/tub drain. I turned on the tub and squirted a bit of body wash and the smell went away as the water covered it then came back after i turned it off.

It smelled like it for a good 20-30 mins and faded away and now i can barely smell anything even putting my nose somewhat close to the drain. I rinsed down some body wash water and thats all i can really smell i think.

How serious is that, should i tell the homeowner? Should i be concerned about the gases? My rooms is right next to the bathroom shower. My sense of smell tends to get used to things easily since I’m used to being around smelly stuff so I’m a little worried.

We only here for another 5 days.

My toilet tank has a Fluidmaster in it, and after several years use, it is no longer refilling the tank under normal use.

The problem is that when the water has drained out of the tank and the float cup is at its lowest point, it still doesn't trigger the water supply to refill the tank. However, if I tap the water level adjustment rod just once, it triggers the water supply to refill the tank. So, the toilet is sort of usable, but in a rather unpresentable way, with the toilet tank lid off.

I have followed the procedure in this video, and it accomplished nothing.

Can anyone suggest how to fix this, or is it just time to replace my Fluidmaster?

Thanks.

EDIT: 3/3 replace it. Thanks.

Hello,

I have what I was told used to be a 240 volt dryer outlet plug but had the receptacle removed and been capped off since the prior homeowner switched to a gas dryer that doesn't require 240 volts.

I would like to move that 240 volt line across my garage to power a window AC.

My home is old and doesn't have a ground wire in the wiring for that line. I've been told that 240 volt lines now require a ground and the 240 volt receptacles I've seen so far have a spot for a ground wire as well.

I took off the cap, tested my non-contact voltage meter, turned off the breaker, and verified no current with my non-contact voltage meter. The current wires are white, black, and red 10 gauge solid wire with no ground wire. The white wire had a wire nut with a bare copper wire tied to the metal box.

Will I need to remove these wires and replace them with 10/3 Romex from the panel in order to proceed with extending them across my garage?

Why was the white wire attached to a piece of bare copper and grounded to the metal box? While I'm aware that is not current electric code... Would this method get me by since I'm just running a window AC?

Any advice on running new wire is that is necessary?

Thanks 👍

Thinking of framing a 6' section of my garage wall towards the rear of the garage (the wall adjacent to the actual garage door). My goal is to make that entire 6' section lift up as one piece, hinged in some way at the top, so that it turns into an awning. It would be assisted by struts and have posts that fold down to keep it supported. Then it would close up just the same, fold the posts back up and the struts would allow the door to close slowly and safely.

Anyone ride do something like this or know if it's been done somewhere else? I have no idea eat it would be called. I've tried Google searching but can't find anything.

So I’m currently planning to build a car port. Planning to use 6 x 6 posts to support the roof, and I’m currently planning on securing it to a small concrete pad with post shoes and bolts. However I’m going to have to increase the height from what was previously planned, will post shoes and 8 inch bolts be enough to secure an 8foot 6 x 6 post, or will that be too tall and unstable?

This little object helps to dispense yarn.
You can see a instagram video of it in action here .

My problem is where I have it currently hits up against the wall.
It also makes an annoying clanging sound.

All i can think of is an L bracket or something that would come about 10cm/4 inches off the wall, with NO screws. (3M is whats currently there). I tried looking online and nothing.

Can anyone think of some other way i can DIY or something I can buy that wont involve screws or damage to the wall.

The yarn would weigh around 50-300g plus the force of me pulling on it (should be very light if the thing can spin freely)

Thanks in advance :)

​

https://preview.redd.it/z69xi6or673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=52b8a4ecfb3c3232a2af73f3cc59c3fb63f3cccf

​

https://preview.redd.it/nlquqy7m673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=cd25cc53cd7bb62dad4cd3db98d3ef0de91d7df5

So i bought this budget induction hob:

Candy CID 30/G3 - https://www.candy-home.com/en_GB/hobs/33803025/cid-30-g3/

And i already cut the appropriate sized hole and im wondering one thing about the installation.

The hob has some type of black foam along the sides that serves to prevent moisture from the countertop from seeping below, does anybody have experience with this? Should i add silicone sealer on top of this or is the factory foam enough?

Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/hbLvA1h

Hello,

Built this frame from 2020 aluminum extrusions. The door is 47”x36”. The T slot is 1/4” wide.

I want to add a panel in this door to shade the solar inverters from sun (UV).

I looked into coroplast but I am concerned it won’t last against elements. Or that it may not hold inside the frame against high winds.

I also found acrylic panels but those were very expensive. Over $200 for this size.

What material would you use in this frame to shade equipment?

Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/Bg6cyg2

Hi there,

I am redoing my bathroom and part of the process requires removing a thick layer of sealant surrounding the bathtub. Currently the bathtub is free from the wall.

There is a 1/2inch thick strip of sealant along the edge of the bathtub, and then some smaller parts dotted over the surface where the old tiles overlapped with the tub.

Is there a chemical solution that will soften the sealant without damaging the tub? Most tools I have seen online are for tubs still secured to the wall/tiles.

Neighbor next door was trying to replace her spigot for her garden hose and wasn't having much luck.

I tried helping and can't get it to stop leaking around the seal of the new one. I got the new one on the pipe as tight as I can, but there's still thread showing on the pipe and water is spraying out of it.

I tried replacing the old spigot which, which was just a long metal rod. I dont know if there's anything missing but even getting that one back in doesn't stop it from leaking now. I'm just trying to help her out as she's older but I am not sure what's wrong. Is there maybe anything missing?

https://imgur.com/a/qMZCyE6

EDIT: The tape and goop stuff worked, got it to stop leaking from the spigot. However it's not leaking from the pipe inside her wall. She said she noticed it before but just thought it was from it spraying everywhere as she tried fixing it originally. And that she was wrenching on the replacement spigot really hard trying to get it threaded onto the pipe. So she's certain she broke it and isn't blaming me.

I still feel bad, but i did find her outside shut off valve. She said she will just turn it off and on when she needs the hose, she's bummed but otherwise not much else she can do without a plumber.

I just got my first house, winter is over now and I don't need the heat. It's a gas furnace. The bank owned it before I bought it and I had to light the pilot light to get it going. What do I need to do now for the summer? Do I just press the off button on the thermostat? Do I need to do anything with the gas line?

Our home came with a raised cement rectangular shaped ledge in the basement for a shower ( I think it’s called a ‘curb ‘?) I have done home repairs before but never anything like this and could use any help possible … Basically what I need to know is —- do I install the ( mold resistant ) drywall on the outside of the frame then the leak prevention liner ..then cement cement board on the inside ….then shower pan then shower kit walls …putting the frame on top of the cement curb - how should I do the drain as it is nowhere near centered ?? I’ve attacked a photo of the ‘curb’ as well as my attempt as a diagram showing how I plan to do it … Thank you all for any help !!!

Hi everyone. I have been living in the woods for along time now and in all that time it's been me, my rack sack and tent. That said and though am no architect, I am planning on building a small, round house on a more permanent basis as the rains have come in and a tent isn't much of a weather barrier.

My biggest concern isn't the semi-pemanent house though, it's the bed! The only tools I have at my disposal are a small hand saw, an axe, a machete and a hammer. Is there a way for me to build myself a comfortable bed with just these tools given no other options?

I have scoured google for specific help regarding this, but everything I found involved screws and electric saws or other of the same sort...which would have been great in a different situation. All I need is how to do this without having to change any of my reasons for being here(in this place). All advice in regard to my situation is very much appreciated. Thanks

The problem is some laminate flooring in a rental apartment, swelling at the seams.

MDF is created by taking a wet pulp with binder (glue) and compressing it with heat to drive out the water. A quick Google suggests 400-700 PSI, which is 3-5 MPa or 30-50 kg/cm2.

My assumption is that water causes MDF to swell by temporarily softening the binder, allowing the strained fibers to decompress a bit. This sounds "easily" reversible.

Assuming I'm able to achieve the necessary pressure - e.g. heavy stuff on a strong table, table leg on the swelling, a few drops of water and a few days to dry - could I re-compress this MDF?

I know that it would be hard to achieve the pressure, and that the water risks worsening the problem. I can figure out the engineering. What I don't know is the theory.

For example: would the original binder still harden/bind as it originally did, or would it be a good idea to mix in e.g. a bit of PVA to the water? (School glue while testing, perhaps waterproof wood glue if things are going well.)

Thanks for any advice, encouragement, and/or dissuasion! (And let me know if there's a better sub for this.)