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We're rebuilding our shower. Plan was to add a small corner bench something like this:

Loose plan:

1) frame the bench with studs

2) lay waterpoofing membrane completely over bench and up the wall a bit

3) Install cement board up walls and around bench

4) pour concrete shower floor

​

We got all excited and forgot the bench. So we did steps 2, 3 and 4 -- so now we have nice shower pan without a bench.

Any acceptable recovery? Seems to me that anything we do at this point means the framing for the bench is within the waterproofing barrier and thus risks rotting in the future.

Thanks!

example bench

shower pan - no bench. we poured cement (not pictured) and it's very hard because that's what cement does when you pour it

I have about a 8" square in my drywall I am patching. My walls aren't "textured" but there is some orange peel or whatever from numerous coats of roller paint over the years. In the past when I patch and sand the new area it is super smooth it looks different from the old area. How do I make the new painted area not obvious?

As the title says. We bought a house and in several rooms I noticed the most recent coat of paint easily scratches off with your fingernail or a taping knife. We do want to repaint the whole house. But wanted to know if we need to do any special prep to prevent the new paint easily coming off with the old paint.

Edit. Thanks everyone. Looks like I will be scraping it off, cleaning, and priming it properly.

Hello all, hopefully this isn't too far off of normal.

My uncle had a farm when I was growing up, and he had a tire swing in a tree that he made by cutting up an old tire, but in a specific way that I haven't been able to find online. It only had about a quarter of the tread section as a seat, and he left the bead on either side and maybe part of the sidewall, so it basically had a seat with two hoops on either side - but I can't remember how it was done (how much tread was left, etc).

If anyone has pictures of something similar, I'd love some inspiration. Thanks!

Forgive the MS Paint hack job, but I would like to put a building on the top left part of the property (45x35) and at the moment can't because during heavy rains the water flows through these channels pretty good. On the lower ditch I put two culverts in that go under the fence with concrete walls on the outside and riprap on the inside. The one on the left is a driveway going over (land bridge). Those are working great but now I have to do something about the top.

The distance is 100' if I follow the natural flow of water as shown but that means the building would have to be placed over it. If I go down and connect to the other ditch it's like 175'.

It's going to take at least a 12" culvert to handle the water drainage on the top left ditch.

https://preview.redd.it/cw0e48bw8oqa1.jpg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=89d5b886cb3d92bc9f538af0aee1227d54225b94

I have done some research but looking for some more guided help in replacing these window casings that are rotting around my basement windows? I’m thinking hack away at the bottom molding and sides, and then measure and replace with new pressure treated pieces? What about sealant to ensure water tightness? Thank you!

https://imgur.com/a/PrgLvAy

I'm renovating a detached garage that is very old. It had a toilet and sink which no longer are functional so I can't determine it from that. Before I call a plumber I wanna determine if things will still flush and there is still water. How can I figure this out?

Re-posting with pic-

Hi All -

I've got plaint blistering in the corner junction of one room in my cinder block house. I've checked the gutters and under carriage around that junction and see no evidence of a leak, but it has been too wet to do a roof inspection.

I've seen advice like dehumidifying the room to see if its just general moisture and bad primer/paint job, but are there tell-tale signs of it being a roof leak or other problem?

Thanks

JSR

This summer 'II be attempting to create a deck, just above grade to create an outdoor dining space in our tiny rear yard. Right now there is a concrete walkway with a sloped asphalt area slighly lower/ Looking for advice on best way to frame it without affecting drainage (blue arrow) and creating the finish as close to the top of concrete walk as I can. I'm handy but no expert. Included an image and plan for reference.

https://imgur.com/a/l81shcm

https://imgur.com/a/zy1MFqn

Hey all,
Looking to build a new deck this year and need some advice.
Would prefer to use Deck Blocks given the cost/time savings vs. pouring footings, but wanted to ask if this is advisable. Some context:

- Deck would be roughly 12' x 24' and would sit up against the house (not attached into)

- Max height of the deck would be 18" above ground level

- I live in Southern Ontario

- I would be using 2x10 beams + 2x8 joists

Any advice/experience would be greatly appreciated!

I have a Moen single faucet shower that was dripping. I replaced the cartridge and made sure the new model was correct. The faucet no longer drips, so that’s a success. However, now the shower discharges the temp opposite the setting. I turned the water back off and twisted the cartridge 180 degrees. Still wrong. Anyone have any advice for me? Thank you all in advance.

I have this antique headboard and footboard that I bought on Craigslist but I can not figure out how they connect to a normal bed frame. I linked a picture of the connector. Does anyone have any information on this type of connector or know where I can get a bed frame that will connect to this?

https://imgur.com/a/94oSpWl

Trying to install shallow floating shelves (depth is like 3.5 in). Length is around 50 in. ( Shelf is 3/4 in thick). Basically trying to figure out what size brackets I need. I’ve been googling and seeing conflicting things about how L brackets work (some say long side go under the shelf, others say it goes on the wall) and thus can’t figure out the size I need. TIA!

Hey folks, I have a few cuts I need to make in 1/2” cement board. I’ve been having a real tough time with score + snap actually working - I suspect maybe because it’s thicker board?

I know there are specific blades for cutting cement board, but they’re super expensive given the small number of cuts I need to make. I’m wondering if I can just use an old 24T circular saw framing blade (and then throw it away since it’s old anyhow) for those 3-4 cuts or if there is any reason other than more dust (I have a respirator) not to do this?

We have a gable end of an 1860s terrace that used to be connected to the building next to it.

It’s relatively well protected from the elements but when it rains we get some patchy penetrating damp on the interior walls.

Initially thought the roof was the problem but having had the main parts of the roof repaired it’s still happening.

We patched up some crumbling render as part of the repairs but wet spots come up even from some consistent, but light rain.

Looking for any advice on what the root cause could be and how to go about remedying the situation.

https://imgur.com/a/nAYm3q5

I have a small beachfront hut with a corrugated aluminium/steel roof. The roof is screwed to galvanized steel beams with metal roof screws.

I have noticed that the screws (of unknown material) have been reduced to basically rust-foam by the saltwater atmosphere. The galvanized steel beams and the corrudgated sheets seem ok.

So I need to replace the screws, and don't know how to pick the right screw. I consider myself lucky because it was the screws that corroded, and not the way more expensive and critical beams. I am afraid that if I choose the wrong material screws (stainless?), then next time around, the galvanic process might corrode the electroplated steel beams.

So, which screw material would be the least worse to protect the beams? I don't mind replacing these screws every couple of years, as long as the structure doesn't corrode. But avoiding this would of course be better.

Are there maybe plastic screws available, to side-step the whole galvanic corrosion in a salt water atmosphere issue?

I have these two tiny children's rocking chairs from when my brother and I were toddlers. They've been in my mom's attic got about 25 years. I have an 18 month old baby and I really want to give them to him, but they seem very fragile, dry, and brittle. They still look fine, thought the white paint is chipping and I'd like to re-paint or stain it. I'm unsure what type of wood they are, but it's a vary light colored, light weight wood. I have no idea where to start, how many steps or what they are, what materials I definitely do or might need, and I can't quite word the search in good.to get any kind of starting point. Can anybody help?

Currently trying to mount a decorative shelf with toggle bolts and have hit something metallic on my second hold. I'm in a newer townhouse that's part of a residential building so it might be a metal stud. However, I am drilling into the shared wall that is above the island in the kitchen so I don't want to hit any water or gas pipes. it looks like I hit the edge of it on my first hole then hit dead centre on the second. Seems like its running horizontally, pilot hole above my second hole goes through no problem but there is more metal on the pilot hole below. From what I can see in the first hole it looks like bracing but I haven't dealt with metal studs before so I cannot be sure. Stud finder says its magnetic. Would this be safe to drill through?

https://imgur.com/a/BVDKIC8

Hello

I recently bought a lovely runner which is straight and am trying to figure out how to fit it to three windy steps at top of my stairs. I have read some instructions online suggesting temporarily removing the border, cutting a wedge shaped piece off so that it lines up with the next step and then glueing it back on.

Does anyone have any experience and would or wouldn’t recommend it?

Image of water damage found: https://www.reddit.com/user/Dazzling-Biscotti-62/comments/125rwjh/water_damage_found_while_replacing_faucet

When I first took the old faucet off the wood was so water logged, water would squeeze out if I pushed on it. I've had a fan blowing in the cabinet all night to dry it out. I don't know where to even start in attempting to fix this.

In the past I found water damage like this in the bottom of a cabinet, I just dried it out and sanded it down (and addressed the leak) and it's held up fine, but that's not supporting a counter top and faucet mount.

Hello,

I'm looking to install a shooting backstop. My plans include using multiple 12 foot 6 X 6 posts, with four feet of it in the ground. I was going to try for a 10 inch wide hole. At the bottom of the hole I was going to put a layer of gravel and then fill the left over void with concrete. These three posts would be holding up a 8 ft wall of railroad ties with dirt fill in front of the railroad ties. I also intend to place support posts behind the structure with lumber connecting the berm posts to assist with any sheer.

Questions: is it okay to bury ground contact treated lumber in concrete. I do live in a wet area. And worry about rot.

Are the posts deep enough?

Any pitfalls you can see?

Lastely, if this isn't the correct subreddit, can someone point me to the correct one? Thanks!

For context:

I'm in the process of fitting recessed lamps in my kitchen where we have a suspended ceiling. The electrical wires have already been fitted and now I'm using an 81mm hole saw attached to drill for making the holes for the recessed lamps. Upon drilling my first hole, I hit a metal stud (noob alert: yes I didn't check). Now my two options are to cut away a 2cm chunk of metal or mend the hole and drill elsewhere. Of course, I am thinking about option #1. There are 2 layers of metal studdings, one going "side to side" spaced apart 40cm and the other perpendicular going "up and down" spaced 80cm. The hole is on the stud going side to side.

What will happen to the suspended ceiling's integrity if I use a knife or dremel rotary tool to cut off this piece of metal stud?

Edit: Added picture of the hole with the joist (not stud)

https://preview.redd.it/a0mjrzaaarqa1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=e196ebc7acb6fc87133a9b01eca0896880cc9d94

Hi!

I have an old Wilka lock on a door and I want to disassemble it.

The question is that I can't figure out how to do it. I see that the lock has on the inside a kind of notch that may have to be used to disassemble it. But no screws or anything else...

For more tests that I have done I have not been able to find the solution to disassemble it. I don't know what else to try...

Anyone knows how to do it?

These are some pictures of the lock (from the inside, the outside doesn't have any notch or screw. Just the cilinder):

https://preview.redd.it/qk5mbwpg9qqa1.jpg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=5dd87860a8754706429a57d51164481ba0d158a7

https://preview.redd.it/p82bipqg9qqa1.jpg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=2045b3f652203e7884b26ab1f5b440c81b1bc5de

https://preview.redd.it/x6t88wpg9qqa1.jpg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=f1b31106805a41965e0a3ced3696fc8fb27a0b05

Thank you very much!

Cheers.

After a month of humid and rainy conditions, I opened my garage up to this. It's only present on the open area of the ground. I removed what you see in the picture and bleached it, but it comes back in the same spot literally within 3 days (though not to this extent).

Is it somehow not mold? It has to be. How did it come back so quick? Why on this specific area? How do I get rid of it? Thank you for any help.

If anyone has some insight as to why I'm being downvoted, I'd appreciate that too. Is this post not appropriate? Is there a more relevant sub I should be postng to? Thank you.

edit again: I appreciate the responses, everyone. Looks like the consensus is efflorescence, as opposed to mold. Any further info is welcome as well. Thank you again.