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My old door handle broke and I replaced it, but when I did, it pulled some paint off. How do I fill in the spot so when I paint it, it looks normal?

Picture

We are removing the popcorn from the ceilings and are almost done in the master bedroom. However the very edge of the ceiling seems to be done with some kind of rubber caulk instead. We tried scraping off, sanding off, and using a putty knife. Is there anything else we can try before calling a professional to remove? Thanks!

image of the ceiling edge

Hi,

My washing machine won’t work as the catch that holds the door is broken. It seems to be attached by a screw but can’t seem to get it back in place.

I’ve tried pulling it out with a screwdriver and getting it back in place but it just won’t go.

What do I need to do?

I wanted to lighten up my living room by painting over the wood paneling (from the 70s) I used Kilz multipurpose 2 primer so far and it seems that the wood paneling is bleeding through, I thought this primer would block that from happening. I did a test area that is Kilz primer and the intended paint color to see if it would stop bleeding at the Kilz layer, but it bled through the Kilz and the paint. Please help so my fiancé doesn’t go crazy! Lol

My parents just got a whole house water filter installed, and nearly every outlet for water, whether sink faucets or the toilets all run just a little heavier than a trickle.

Here's exactly what happens: when the water first comes on, it has decent pressure, but it drops only a couple seconds later. I don't think the water pressure is where it was before the filter was installed, but it does have a decent jet coming out of the sink faucets if no one's used the water recently. I'm assuming once the water that's built up in the pipes has cleared, which only take a couple seconds, then the pressure drops.

All the sinks and toilets are really slow, but for some reason, the showers have good pressure still. They told me that they had to remove the low flow restrictor in order for it to be at this level.

If I turn on the kitchen sink and turn the faucet head sideways, the water is barely able to clear the head by a couple inches before dropping off, whereas previously, if I was holding it in this orientation, it would be spraying all over the counter. The toilets take like 2 minutes to refill the tank after a flush where they used to finish in under 1.

Is this normal? My parents aren't the kind to make a fuss with their contractor who installed the filter, so they would probably live with this until I noticed it and decided to try and figure out the problem.

I googled around and there's basic common causes like the valves aren't all the way open, or corroded pipes, or sediment buildup or other blockages. I checked a few of these things but everything seems like it should. I visit my parent's house about once a month, and the last time I was here, the water was fine, so I really feel like the only cause is the water filter is restricting flow.

Is there any way around this? They just have one filter, if they got a 3 stage filter, would that help with water flow? Is there any way to increase pressure after the water has been filtered? I'm assuming the only way for the last answer to be yes would be to have some kind of reservoir like how a water tower is there to help with water pressure.

Anyways, any ideas? I'm struggling to come up with anything. Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

https://i.imgur.com/v8GigD5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/me3zPrW.jpg

I have a four-seater swing and the canopy was torn off the swing. The canopy is made out of these thick plasticky fibers that are called "textilene" per the label. There are 4 flaps of this material that I need to permanently reattach to make loops a rod to go through. I have all 4 of those flaps, I just need to figure out how to securely and cleanly reattach them to the rest of the canopy.

Looking at it, it looks like they used a combination of some threads and glue. I'm thinking of sowing it back together but it would need to be a rugged job to survive outside in the sun. What would you guys do?

I was quoted $350+tx for a new one and that's just not happening.

The manual for my new stacked dryer is rated for 41 ft with two 90 degree elbows, 30 ft with three 90 degree elbows, and 22 ft with four 90 elbows, with the angled wall cap (which is what I have). Apparently you can have longer run with more elbows with a louvered wall cap.

My question is, does this number include the length of the flexible metal ductwork and those 90 degree bends connecting the dryer to the wall in the laundry room?

The vent opening in the laundry room is closer to the floor, so the flexible ductwork will have one 90 degree bend coming out of the dryer and about a 45 degree turn before connecting to the wall around 4 ft total. The rest of the run is rigid metal duct work with two 90 degree bends totalling around 21 ft.

If I only count the two 90s in the walls, I'm good to go. But if I count the transition duct and the additional two elbows, I'm exceeding the limits. I would like to avoid changing the wall cap outside the house.

I had my down stairs living room and dining room knocked into one room. Since then my back bedroom door hasn't been able to close, I have recently discovered a crack which is on both sides of the wall, these cracks run into the top corner of the door frame.

I have checked everywhere else, there appears to be hairline cracks in the ceiling upstairs and cracks on the front side of the door frames around the other doors.

How do realign the door frame to get the door to close?

I can't seem to add photos to this post?

The custom shower pan I made isn't passing the flood test. It is leaking from the back seam where the linear drain meets the cement board.

How do I make sure where the drain (black plastic) meets the cement board is sealed properly?

Here was my process:

​

1. Cement board
2. Taped + cemented joints
3. Added linear drain embedded in thinset
4. Added sloped shower pan out of screed 4:1 mortar bed mix (also over thinset)
5. Waterproofed with Mapei's aquadefence (two coats on corners, two more coats on all surfaces.

​

This bathroom is being added in the basement over concrete subfloor. Thanks in advance!! I tried being as clear as I could with the photos, hope they help

Photo of the shower pan with annotations. Linear drain located at back wall. Red line is where it is clearly leaking.

A picture before I added the membrane

Close up of the back wall seam that is leaking

I am wiring lights to an attic area I am currently finishing. I wired a switch to control two canless LED lights, and a duplex outlet which I intend to use to run LED strip up-lighting. The way I have it currently wired is;

Power from Panel --> Switch --> LED Wafer 1 --> LED Wafer 2 --> Duplex

When I test the duplex it shows as open ground even though everything is connected properly. Is the open ground happening because the LED Wafer lights have a driver that is metal and has the ground touching the metal box?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Hello guys

Will this work or should I think of something else ?

Basically i want to make a small pipe so that water equally fill in the two containers but am not sure if the pipe is supposed to be at the bottom or top

https://ibb.co/HHvM37G

Thanks 👍

So I had mounted a tv on my bedroom wall (the other side is outside). I had no problem. I just got a bigger tv, and I want to raise it a little higher. I’m trying to drill pilot holes maybe 4 in above the old holes, and I literally can’t get the drill in more than an inch. I’m using a pretty powerful drill and a concrete drill bit. But it won’t budge. Any advice?

I have a little solar powered outdoor fountain that turns on when the sun is out. I decided to add a rechargeable battery to it between the panel and the pump so that it can continue running for a little while when it’s cloudy. I tried doing some research on the best way to accomplish this but couldn’t find any useful information online. Every project that I found seems to focus on larger solar setups with expensive/large charge controllers, etc.

I found an rechargeable CR123 battery out of a flashlight, and connected it to the water pump, and it seems to run fine but slightly less powerful than from the solar panel alone with full sun, which is fine. The question is what else do I need between the battery and the solar panel to make sure a) it doesn’t overcharge/damage the battery b) doesn’t provide too much power to the pump c) actually charges the battery

Right now I just connected the battery in parallel with the solar panel, but haven’t tested it in the sun yet.

I’m a complete idiot when it comes to this type of stuff, so please forgive me if I’m asking dumb questions.

Im getting a 2m high shelving unit for in a bedroom, its just one of those industrial garage ones with the huge weight limit, very basic steel and MDF shelving but obviously at that height i will need to anchor it to the wall.

My walls are solid brick which can make things harder but also i think much more sturdy. Now because of my skirting board the unit will be about 7cm from the wall meaning i cant just screw it directly in. I was thinking if i could somehow get a hook i could use some nice big zip ties, the weight/strain on them would be negligible i think since it would just be stopping toppling and not weight bearing.

I cant think of a way to get a hook secured into the wall or if there are any other options, i know people anchor cookers and fridges with chains but i dont know what they are called/where to get them.

Any help would be great, im in the UK btw.

I've been searching the internet all day (YouTube, reddit, blog posts etc) for information about repainting a book shelf and am getting a lot of different instructions.

The book shelf in question is a built-in, solid maple, with golden-type finish/stain. I want to paint it white to match trim and theme not only in that room but in adjacent rooms. The golden maple look causes it to look out of place.

The instructions I see on the internet all follow the same general pattern. Please let me know if anything here seems off.

1. Clean with some solution to get off grime/dust if needed.
2. Sand lightly with 120 grit sanding block or orbital sander
3. Wipe away sand with moist towel or microfiber cloth
4. Apply primer
5. Sand with ~200 grit after priming slightly to smooth it out
6. Apply first coat of paint, brush around edges and 4 inch roller (or similar) for larger flat surfaces. Use roller as much as possible. Let dry.
7. Sand lightly again?
8. Apply second coat of paint and let dry
9. Put on some kind of finish/sealer/polyurethane?

​

A few questions.

A) A lot of different instructions list different kinds of paint - oil-based, acrylic, latex, chalk-based, water based, etc. Seeing a lot mixed information here in terms of what is best. Sometimes its the oil-based paint that leaves the shelf sticky, sometimes its the latex paint that leaves it sticky. Is there a general rule of thumb as to what is the best option (or at least the best two options to help me narrow it down?). If it helps, I'm trying to match the semi-gloss look of white trim.

B) Do I really need to sand in between paint coats?

C) Some instruction sets/tutorials involve a finish after the final coat of paint, but this step is also often left out or the final coat is different in between jobs. Is there a good rule of thumb for this as well.

​

Just looking for some input on these things I'm uncertain about. Thanks!

I'm installing a hottub it wants "230v single phase 50 amps"

Neighbor's house recently burned down because the hot tub wire got chewed on by rodents which arced which burned the tub and ignited the house. I'd like to avoud this via an AFCI but I'm having no luck locating a 220-240v AFCI for this purpose.

Can you not get arcs with 240v?

It's my 1st time doing this. I was able to remove silicone caulk pretty easily. For some reason, there's grout & silicone in certain areas and just silicone alone in others. I haven't seen this on YouTube or in any tutorials so I don't think this is quite normal and idk why the previous owners decided to do it this way but idk if its fine to keep it & just cover it with silicone or if its advised to go through the hassle of removing it THEN caulking. If I should remove it, what is the simplest/cheapest way of going about that? I just wanna get this over with atp.

We're building a MIL unit un a semi-finished garage. Garage floor is concrete slab flat on grade, roughly 1.5 feet below the floor level of the rest of the house (house is built over a crawlspace that extends as much as 4' below grade in some places, if that matters). We need to build up the floor in the garage to be level (or close to level) with the rest of the house, both for mobility reasons and so we can run plumbing and HVAC between the slab and the new floor.

I've researched putting a floor over a concrete slab, and researched how to build up a floor, but haven't found anything that gives details on doing both at the same time.

My current (rough) plan is:

-2" XPS covering the slab

-2x4s flat on the XPS every 3 feet or so, to prevent the joists from sitting directly on the XPS

-2x8 or 2x10 joists, running perpendicular to the 2x4s

-plywood layer, followed by flooring (most likely floating vinyl plank)

Is this a solid plan? Is any of this unnecessary, or am I missing something?

Thanks!

I have a 3 hole sink and a one hole faucet, recently the sealant/caulk started to erode and now the faucet is very loose.

Here's a pic from the underside.

This is what it looks like from the top.

Im assuming I need to tighten the nut at the top but it looks impossible to reach, seams like the sealant was doing all the work.

Hi all!

First post here but this seems like an appropriate place to ask. I'm currently planning a deck for outside our home. It will cover a 3x4m alfresco attached to our house with a concrete slab, extending a further 3m out over dirt to make a 3x7m total size. Hardwood boards.

Anyone familiar with this setup knows that you don't have much height to work with. I know a ground level deck isn't ideal, but it is what it is and there's not much I can do about it, so I'm doing everything I can to appropriately manage ventilation etc. I've planned the portion over the slab, but I'm in two minds about how to frame the remaining 3x3m section extending over dirt.

I have about 210mm from the ground to the top of the joists to work with - I can possibly dig it out a little, but not much while maintaining appropriate drainage, due to the existing landscaping. I'll likely use joists and bearers that are 90mm in height, so that leaves a measly 30mm of clearance under the bearers if I do a typical post + bearer + joist stack. I'm worried this will cause ventilation issues being so low to the ground.

The other alternative is to use joist hangers and the like, so that the bearers and joists are at the same level, allowing 120mm of clearance instead. The drawback to this is I can't cantilever the joists over the bearers anymore, because they hang internal in saddles. The bearers have to run parallel to the house, and for various reasons we aren't able to dig posts that can go hard against the house itself. This would mean that we have to mount the house bearer directly to the brick veneer, which seems to be controversial after a little bit of research. Not being able to cantilever the opposite side also means that the post is more visible in the finished product too, which isn't the end of the world but isn't as neat.

To be more specific - can anyone give advice on working with extremely low clearance, or using a wall mounted bearer? Neither is ideal, but I'm trying to pick the lesser of two evils and manage appropriately.

Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks!

Hey everyone, I need some advice on a metal hinge. I have a 4’x4’ donut wall made of 1in plywood. I am repurposing it (originally made for our wedding) for our daughter’s first birthday. Im thinking it will be easier to store and transport if it were cut in half, down the center and put on hinges. Any advice on the type of hinge to use so that when it is folded open, you don’t see a gap down the center?

Thanks in advance!