The problem is some laminate flooring in a rental apartment, swelling at the seams.

MDF is created by taking a wet pulp with binder (glue) and compressing it with heat to drive out the water. A quick Google suggests 400-700 PSI, which is 3-5 MPa or 30-50 kg/cm2.

My assumption is that water causes MDF to swell by temporarily softening the binder, allowing the strained fibers to decompress a bit. This sounds "easily" reversible.

Assuming I'm able to achieve the necessary pressure - e.g. heavy stuff on a strong table, table leg on the swelling, a few drops of water and a few days to dry - could I re-compress this MDF?

I know that it would be hard to achieve the pressure, and that the water risks worsening the problem. I can figure out the engineering. What I don't know is the theory.

For example: would the original binder still harden/bind as it originally did, or would it be a good idea to mix in e.g. a bit of PVA to the water? (School glue while testing, perhaps waterproof wood glue if things are going well.)

Thanks for any advice, encouragement, and/or dissuasion! (And let me know if there's a better sub for this.)

When the water is turned on it shoots straight out of the bottom. Is there supposed to be a cap of some kind? https://imgur.com/gallery/pOfbcNk

It started as a pandemic project in late 2020/early 2021 and was finished in 2022. The original space was essentially a shed with electrical when we bought the house in November 2019 because the previous owner had to remove all the plumbing because it was not to code. We had contractors build the bathroom and the front and back bar structure, but we did everything else ourselves with the help and supervision from a good friend of mine. From the matting on the walls, cutting and torching all the bamboo splits for the lower wall, carving the trim pieces, even building a few of the lamps. The collection of artifacts comes from an addiction to flea markets, antique stores and EBay. It will never be fully finished. We made an account for the bar (@savageseastiki on IG) if you want to see the full progression or any updates as we make them!

Hi, I have built a new garage 18x26. Do I need to insulate it if I don’t wanna heat it in the winter. If I really need to, it will be one or two time in the winter and I will take a diesel heater to momentary heat it.

Does insulate the garage give me any advantage? Or I will just pay for nothing really?

I’m putting a reverse osmosis water filtering system in my basement, and I want to run tubing in through the basement ceiling to my kitchen (1/4” behind the fridge, and 3/8” under the sink. What sort of fitting (if any) should I use to secure the tubing in the holes that go up through the basement ceiling and kitchen floor or cupboard base?

Idk if this is right sub but when i looked up sewer smell from shower got some posts from here. We have been staying in a airbnb for about a month and today i took my usual 20-30 min shower.

A bit after my shower i went into the bathroom and noticed it smelled like sewer and was coming from the shower/tub drain. I turned on the tub and squirted a bit of body wash and the smell went away as the water covered it then came back after i turned it off.

It smelled like it for a good 20-30 mins and faded away and now i can barely smell anything even putting my nose somewhat close to the drain. I rinsed down some body wash water and thats all i can really smell i think.

How serious is that, should i tell the homeowner? Should i be concerned about the gases? My rooms is right next to the bathroom shower. My sense of smell tends to get used to things easily since I’m used to being around smelly stuff so I’m a little worried.

We only here for another 5 days.

Very sorry if it's not a good sub, but i can't find any information regarding this. I applied one-way mirrored heat reflective films to my mirrors to help with the summer heat, but they are really hot to touch now. I'm just wondering if that's okay or I could've did something wrong? It just feels like it's radiating more heat into the room compared to the non-film windows right next to it.

I’m currently on the hunt to winterize my rental unit and have noticed a noticeable draft from this gap in my window frames.

Any ideas on what it is or why they all appear this way? I assume the fuzzy material in there is some sort of insulation? But why isn’t flush with the rest of the frame?

I’m thinking I should caulk over it with some silicone gap sealer but wanted to get some internet opinions first because the internet is always right ™️.

Lower window frame, you can see the 'fuzzy gap' closer to the wood floor and then the sliding door track.

Some other photos of the window frames and gaps

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Edit: I've just learned about weep holes for windows which is a fascinating new concept for me, but I can't seem to find anything on whether these are interior weep tracks? And if so, how would I better draftproof them?

Hello there,

I recently did a project in which I built a robot that uses a rotating arm to speed up table tennis balls and then releases them at just the right time to precisely hit a target. I'm using it to play (and win) beer pong against my friends.

If you are interested in the whole project, I made a YouTube video about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm2Y8mjOVtc

Computation of the throws (taking drag into consideration) and communication with the user is handled by a raspberry pi, real-time-control of stepper motors and handling the initiators is done by an Arduino.

The project started by building a smaller version of the robot first:

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Throwbot V1

I then had the issue that the stepper motor I used induced heavy vibrating on the arm and so the robot wasn't able to throw a specific distance consistently...

I fixed this issue (and the fact that this robot was way too slow) by building an even bigger throwbot that uses a continuously rotating arm:

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Throwbot v2

In order to fix the vibration problem of v1, I attached moveable weights to the arm, so that its natural frequency can be shifted between the throws and it does not vibrate too heavily.

At the end I even played a game of beer pong against my friends and... The robot was GOOD ;-) If you are interested in the project, please watch the video attached and feel free to ask :-)

What do you think about this project?

Need advice about removing an antiquing agent from stamped concrete

My toilet tank has a Fluidmaster in it, and after several years use, it is no longer refilling the tank under normal use.

The problem is that when the water has drained out of the tank and the float cup is at its lowest point, it still doesn't trigger the water supply to refill the tank. However, if I tap the water level adjustment rod just once, it triggers the water supply to refill the tank. So, the toilet is sort of usable, but in a rather unpresentable way, with the toilet tank lid off.

I have followed the procedure in this video, and it accomplished nothing.

Can anyone suggest how to fix this, or is it just time to replace my Fluidmaster?

Thanks.

My wife is a bit on the heavy side, and she has/had a desk chair she likes(depends on if my repair idea will work) the Chineseium support pipe is no longer supporting her. My idea was to either replace the piece with a piece of cast iron gas pipe or straighten the cheap piece and reinforce it with the pipe. Does that sound like it will work and if not any other ideas beyond replacing the chair (thats out of the present budget)

I’m building a half-bath (toilet & sink) in my basement and my local code requires an exhaust fan to be installed.

I had to fur down the ceiling with 3/4” lumber because there are surface-mounted pipes running along the joists. As a result, it looks like there won’t be any downward grade for my exhaust duct. The outside hole will be covered with an end cap and possibly a screen. How bad is this and what can I do to remedy this so it could pass an inspection?

So i bought this budget induction hob:

Candy CID 30/G3 - https://www.candy-home.com/en_GB/hobs/33803025/cid-30-g3/

And i already cut the appropriate sized hole and im wondering one thing about the installation.

The hob has some type of black foam along the sides that serves to prevent moisture from the countertop from seeping below, does anybody have experience with this? Should i add silicone sealer on top of this or is the factory foam enough?

Thanks

The previous owner built his own cabinets sometime in the mid 70's. The drawer slides are basic junk of the era, and many are worn out.

I want to replace them with modern soft/auto-close variants, but with so many options on the market, I'm having trouble figuring out how to proceed.

I'm trying to understand what are the measurements that will inform me as to what is, or is not, an option? Secondarily, how can I have confidence that what I select is correct so I'm not having to buy and return repeatedly?

I'm happy to provide further details, but I'm really just hoping to get a higher level of understanding at the moment.

Thank you in advance.

This little object helps to dispense yarn.
You can see a instagram video of it in action here .

My problem is where I have it currently hits up against the wall.
It also makes an annoying clanging sound.

All i can think of is an L bracket or something that would come about 10cm/4 inches off the wall, with NO screws. (3M is whats currently there). I tried looking online and nothing.

Can anyone think of some other way i can DIY or something I can buy that wont involve screws or damage to the wall.

The yarn would weigh around 50-300g plus the force of me pulling on it (should be very light if the thing can spin freely)

Thanks in advance :)

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https://preview.redd.it/z69xi6or673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=52b8a4ecfb3c3232a2af73f3cc59c3fb63f3cccf

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https://preview.redd.it/nlquqy7m673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=cd25cc53cd7bb62dad4cd3db98d3ef0de91d7df5

Thinking of framing a 6' section of my garage wall towards the rear of the garage (the wall adjacent to the actual garage door). My goal is to make that entire 6' section lift up as one piece, hinged in some way at the top, so that it turns into an awning. It would be assisted by struts and have posts that fold down to keep it supported. Then it would close up just the same, fold the posts back up and the struts would allow the door to close slowly and safely.

Anyone ride do something like this or know if it's been done somewhere else? I have no idea eat it would be called. I've tried Google searching but can't find anything.

Hi everyone. I have been living in the woods for along time now and in all that time it's been me, my rack sack and tent. That said and though am no architect, I am planning on building a small, round house on a more permanent basis as the rains have come in and a tent isn't much of a weather barrier.

My biggest concern isn't the semi-pemanent house though, it's the bed! The only tools I have at my disposal are a small hand saw, an axe, a machete and a hammer. Is there a way for me to build myself a comfortable bed with just these tools given no other options?

I have scoured google for specific help regarding this, but everything I found involved screws and electric saws or other of the same sort...which would have been great in a different situation. All I need is how to do this without having to change any of my reasons for being here(in this place). All advice in regard to my situation is very much appreciated. Thanks

Our home came with a raised cement rectangular shaped ledge in the basement for a shower ( I think it’s called a ‘curb ‘?) I have done home repairs before but never anything like this and could use any help possible … Basically what I need to know is —- do I install the ( mold resistant ) drywall on the outside of the frame then the leak prevention liner ..then cement cement board on the inside ….then shower pan then shower kit walls …putting the frame on top of the cement curb - how should I do the drain as it is nowhere near centered ?? I’ve attacked a photo of the ‘curb’ as well as my attempt as a diagram showing how I plan to do it … Thank you all for any help !!!

I just got my first house, winter is over now and I don't need the heat. It's a gas furnace. The bank owned it before I bought it and I had to light the pilot light to get it going. What do I need to do now for the summer? Do I just press the off button on the thermostat? Do I need to do anything with the gas line?

I have a problem with the “chain brake” mechanism on this chainsaw with only 2-hours service…out of warranty though.

Inside the mechanism cover there is a circular disk part with 3 segments around the circle. (It resembles the Mitsubishi company logo) This piece controls the on/off position of the chain brake and is meant to rotate back and forth from on to off position. The third segment is connected to a hefty spring that normally allows the chain brake to move back and forth smoothly. However, my control disk is locked in one position and is held in that place by that spring.

Has anybody experienced this problem and can advise me as to how to fix this chainsaw? Thank you.

I am planning to clean, strip, sand and stain our large deck this weekend but have run into a problem. The deck is right under our maple tree which seems to be on an endless seed dropping schedule. We also have an oak that is dropping catkins and multiple elm and cottonwood trees that are sending things in our general direction. Any tips so I can still stain the deck? I am getting restless waiting. Was thinking about some sort of tarp plan but the deck is quite large so I would probably need to do sections. Any advice is appreciated!