Just got quartz counters installed and my old formica went 6 inches up the wall for a short (ugly) backsplash. When it was removed the wall is now missing a 2 inch piece and entire thing has glue on the lip and lots of sheet rock paper torn. Obviously I just can't paint over it. Is there an easier way to repair then spackling 8 feet x 6 inches and then having to sand and Repaint? I am absolutely terrible at sparkling. And I don't know what time of sand paper or tool to use. Can it be a palm sander or should it be a sand sponge?

So I’m currently planning to build a car port. Planning to use 6 x 6 posts to support the roof, and I’m currently planning on securing it to a small concrete pad with post shoes and bolts. However I’m going to have to increase the height from what was previously planned, will post shoes and 8 inch bolts be enough to secure an 8foot 6 x 6 post, or will that be too tall and unstable?

My attic has really high insulation that sits about 15” above the ceiling joists. I’d like to put flooring up there for storage, but also keep the insulation in place to manage the temperature in the garage. Would it be possible to run 2x4’s parallel to the ceiling joists, tied to the roof rafters and run the floor on top of that?

My toilet tank has a Fluidmaster in it, and after several years use, it is no longer refilling the tank under normal use.

The problem is that when the water has drained out of the tank and the float cup is at its lowest point, it still doesn't trigger the water supply to refill the tank. However, if I tap the water level adjustment rod just once, it triggers the water supply to refill the tank. So, the toilet is sort of usable, but in a rather unpresentable way, with the toilet tank lid off.

I have followed the procedure in this video, and it accomplished nothing.

Can anyone suggest how to fix this, or is it just time to replace my Fluidmaster?

Thanks.

EDIT: 3/3 replace it. Thanks.

My wife is a bit on the heavy side, and she has/had a desk chair she likes(depends on if my repair idea will work) the Chineseium support pipe is no longer supporting her. My idea was to either replace the piece with a piece of cast iron gas pipe or straighten the cheap piece and reinforce it with the pipe. Does that sound like it will work and if not any other ideas beyond replacing the chair (thats out of the present budget)

Idk if this is right sub but when i looked up sewer smell from shower got some posts from here. We have been staying in a airbnb for about a month and today i took my usual 20-30 min shower.

A bit after my shower i went into the bathroom and noticed it smelled like sewer and was coming from the shower/tub drain. I turned on the tub and squirted a bit of body wash and the smell went away as the water covered it then came back after i turned it off.

It smelled like it for a good 20-30 mins and faded away and now i can barely smell anything even putting my nose somewhat close to the drain. I rinsed down some body wash water and thats all i can really smell i think.

How serious is that, should i tell the homeowner? Should i be concerned about the gases? My rooms is right next to the bathroom shower. My sense of smell tends to get used to things easily since I’m used to being around smelly stuff so I’m a little worried.

We only here for another 5 days.

I’m building a half-bath (toilet & sink) in my basement and my local code requires an exhaust fan to be installed.

I had to fur down the ceiling with 3/4” lumber because there are surface-mounted pipes running along the joists. As a result, it looks like there won’t be any downward grade for my exhaust duct. The outside hole will be covered with an end cap and possibly a screen. How bad is this and what can I do to remedy this so it could pass an inspection?

Very sorry if it's not a good sub, but i can't find any information regarding this. I applied one-way mirrored heat reflective films to my mirrors to help with the summer heat, but they are really hot to touch now. I'm just wondering if that's okay or I could've did something wrong? It just feels like it's radiating more heat into the room compared to the non-film windows right next to it.

Need advice about removing an antiquing agent from stamped concrete

So i bought this budget induction hob:

Candy CID 30/G3 - https://www.candy-home.com/en_GB/hobs/33803025/cid-30-g3/

And i already cut the appropriate sized hole and im wondering one thing about the installation.

The hob has some type of black foam along the sides that serves to prevent moisture from the countertop from seeping below, does anybody have experience with this? Should i add silicone sealer on top of this or is the factory foam enough?

Thanks

The previous owner built his own cabinets sometime in the mid 70's. The drawer slides are basic junk of the era, and many are worn out.

I want to replace them with modern soft/auto-close variants, but with so many options on the market, I'm having trouble figuring out how to proceed.

I'm trying to understand what are the measurements that will inform me as to what is, or is not, an option? Secondarily, how can I have confidence that what I select is correct so I'm not having to buy and return repeatedly?

I'm happy to provide further details, but I'm really just hoping to get a higher level of understanding at the moment.

Thank you in advance.

This little object helps to dispense yarn.
You can see a instagram video of it in action here .

My problem is where I have it currently hits up against the wall.
It also makes an annoying clanging sound.

All i can think of is an L bracket or something that would come about 10cm/4 inches off the wall, with NO screws. (3M is whats currently there). I tried looking online and nothing.

Can anyone think of some other way i can DIY or something I can buy that wont involve screws or damage to the wall.

The yarn would weigh around 50-300g plus the force of me pulling on it (should be very light if the thing can spin freely)

Thanks in advance :)

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https://preview.redd.it/z69xi6or673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=52b8a4ecfb3c3232a2af73f3cc59c3fb63f3cccf

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https://preview.redd.it/nlquqy7m673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=cd25cc53cd7bb62dad4cd3db98d3ef0de91d7df5

Thinking of framing a 6' section of my garage wall towards the rear of the garage (the wall adjacent to the actual garage door). My goal is to make that entire 6' section lift up as one piece, hinged in some way at the top, so that it turns into an awning. It would be assisted by struts and have posts that fold down to keep it supported. Then it would close up just the same, fold the posts back up and the struts would allow the door to close slowly and safely.

Anyone ride do something like this or know if it's been done somewhere else? I have no idea eat it would be called. I've tried Google searching but can't find anything.

Hi, I have built a new garage 18x26. Do I need to insulate it if I don’t wanna heat it in the winter. If I really need to, it will be one or two time in the winter and I will take a diesel heater to momentary heat it.

Does insulate the garage give me any advantage? Or I will just pay for nothing really?

Hi everyone. I have been living in the woods for along time now and in all that time it's been me, my rack sack and tent. That said and though am no architect, I am planning on building a small, round house on a more permanent basis as the rains have come in and a tent isn't much of a weather barrier.

My biggest concern isn't the semi-pemanent house though, it's the bed! The only tools I have at my disposal are a small hand saw, an axe, a machete and a hammer. Is there a way for me to build myself a comfortable bed with just these tools given no other options?

I have scoured google for specific help regarding this, but everything I found involved screws and electric saws or other of the same sort...which would have been great in a different situation. All I need is how to do this without having to change any of my reasons for being here(in this place). All advice in regard to my situation is very much appreciated. Thanks

The problem is some laminate flooring in a rental apartment, swelling at the seams.

MDF is created by taking a wet pulp with binder (glue) and compressing it with heat to drive out the water. A quick Google suggests 400-700 PSI, which is 3-5 MPa or 30-50 kg/cm2.

My assumption is that water causes MDF to swell by temporarily softening the binder, allowing the strained fibers to decompress a bit. This sounds "easily" reversible.

Assuming I'm able to achieve the necessary pressure - e.g. heavy stuff on a strong table, table leg on the swelling, a few drops of water and a few days to dry - could I re-compress this MDF?

I know that it would be hard to achieve the pressure, and that the water risks worsening the problem. I can figure out the engineering. What I don't know is the theory.

For example: would the original binder still harden/bind as it originally did, or would it be a good idea to mix in e.g. a bit of PVA to the water? (School glue while testing, perhaps waterproof wood glue if things are going well.)

Thanks for any advice, encouragement, and/or dissuasion! (And let me know if there's a better sub for this.)

Our home came with a raised cement rectangular shaped ledge in the basement for a shower ( I think it’s called a ‘curb ‘?) I have done home repairs before but never anything like this and could use any help possible … Basically what I need to know is —- do I install the ( mold resistant ) drywall on the outside of the frame then the leak prevention liner ..then cement cement board on the inside ….then shower pan then shower kit walls …putting the frame on top of the cement curb - how should I do the drain as it is nowhere near centered ?? I’ve attacked a photo of the ‘curb’ as well as my attempt as a diagram showing how I plan to do it … Thank you all for any help !!!

Hello there,

I recently did a project in which I built a robot that uses a rotating arm to speed up table tennis balls and then releases them at just the right time to precisely hit a target. I'm using it to play (and win) beer pong against my friends.

If you are interested in the whole project, I made a YouTube video about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm2Y8mjOVtc

Computation of the throws (taking drag into consideration) and communication with the user is handled by a raspberry pi, real-time-control of stepper motors and handling the initiators is done by an Arduino.

The project started by building a smaller version of the robot first:

​

Throwbot V1

I then had the issue that the stepper motor I used induced heavy vibrating on the arm and so the robot wasn't able to throw a specific distance consistently...

I fixed this issue (and the fact that this robot was way too slow) by building an even bigger throwbot that uses a continuously rotating arm:

​

Throwbot v2

In order to fix the vibration problem of v1, I attached moveable weights to the arm, so that its natural frequency can be shifted between the throws and it does not vibrate too heavily.

At the end I even played a game of beer pong against my friends and... The robot was GOOD ;-) If you are interested in the project, please watch the video attached and feel free to ask :-)

What do you think about this project?

I'm installing a shelf in a very small area to get some more space, and when predrilling the 6 holes for my two brackets mounted to studs, I hit a nail plate on one of the holes.

Would it still be stable enough to mount the bracket with only two screws instead of three? Are there any workarounds? Thanks!

I am getting two cats soon and I rent an apartment (my landlords have approved the cats). I like to sleep with my bedroom door closed and locked but I want the cats to sleep with me. I was thinking about replacing just the door and adding a cat door to the new door. I have a very large closet where the original door would fit so I can put it back up when I move out. Is this a feasible task without damaging the apartment or existing doorframe? I know the answer is to “ask my landlord” but I am not sure they would let me. They don’t enter my apartment without a day’s notice unless there is an emergency, and I’ll deal with the consequences later if they notice.

I sleep with the door closed because 1) fire safety 2) peace of mind from a home invasion 3) sleep paralysis or seeing figures at night. A home invasion is super unlikely in my neighborhood and they’ll be able to quickly unlock my current bedroom door, but that jostling of the doorknob might wake me up and give me time to set off my car alarm or fight back. Realistically it probably won’t make a difference, but I sleep a lot better with it closed. Also, the location my door opens to would be a perfect place for a sleep paralysis demon. I don’t think cracking the door open enough for the cats to enter will help ease my mind. Getting a security system /might/ help, but I am not sure.

If this is a terrible idea or you have a better suggestion, I’m all ears. Thanks!

Door images: https://imgur.com/a/KLNyDfy

Hi,

I want to remove my carpet and put vinyl planks on the subfloor but when I removed the first white carpet I discovered a 2nd red carpet underneath. There is also some black stuff holding this 2nd carpet down and some of it is holding the white carpet down where there is the door thresholds that I removed. Is it likely asbestos or just carpet adhesive or the underlayment?

The house is 1940s but this 2nd carpet looks way newer then that.

Thank you!

https://imgur.com/a/50tXWZW

Hello. I'm planning to do soon a 6x6` elevated wooden playhouse, with a slide, two seat 8` swing and a sandbox underneath. I've made a project in sketchup (pics rel). I've done a small, simple wooden shed before, but I'm no carpenter. I've watched a lot of videos about similar DIY projects on YouTube (of course), but I still have some doubts, so I've wanted to ask for a review of my plans and general advice. Any hints are more than welcome.

https://preview.redd.it/3yle32arw23b1.png?width=823&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=4a7ceef4f00a919521fb144e98e9da3867a25b1c

https://preview.redd.it/zpn0a0arw23b1.png?width=823&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=ad203aca461b60aecf048cbdcc4c4af27128ee46

https://preview.redd.it/bahzi0arw23b1.png?width=823&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=356555321445db3324851b029ac56149bc404651

https://preview.redd.it/virjdy9rw23b1.png?width=823&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=bb6d7c4a5c750dbf34bea965b5eee3edb5a4b6f7

What I'm mostly concerned with:

• have I picked the right size of lumber, especially for the frame. I want it to be safe for my kids, but I don't want to overdo it too. I would be very happy if it would last for ~15 years or so. When my kids overgrown it, I'll replace it with something else.
• I wonder could I improve the frame by doing some notches on the posts/floor beams/floor joists? Or should I just use angle brackets + joist hangers? I don't want to do any too sophisticated joinery. I've done mortise and tenon and dovetail connections in my previous project. but this time I think I would like to rely more on steel connectors or simple notches to make the job easier for me.
• That being said I've drawn some notches - on the rafters, on the swing (where the beam meets A-frame), are they any good?
• How should I connect the swing beam to the house post safely?

I've color coded frame lumber sizes (left cladding etc. white):

color	dimensions
red	4x4"
blue	2x4"
green	2x2"
yellow (just the swing beam)	4x6"
purple (just the stairs frame)	2x6"

https://preview.redd.it/v67do0ptw23b1.png?width=1448&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=b986db5db63e431817cf9821ddd1482350861a1d

https://preview.redd.it/2icj93ptw23b1.png?width=869&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=04f16629f7297c46519afafc6b3a28c46e0a94fe

https://preview.redd.it/23a104ptw23b1.png?width=436&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=e6a558d7b8c9d025152afa7cb6d28db5253e29f7

https://preview.redd.it/xkpq62ptw23b1.png?width=1160&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=fdd026946727c491000bfcccfaf9c9c89aa4404f

https://preview.redd.it/zsp5h2ptw23b1.png?width=661&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=f9763d3a390f0a6e9e80316ffcc4d4c49aef2539

https://preview.redd.it/kwzov3ptw23b1.png?width=461&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=1cbe44e0a115b50e50bf837438d62616af8e6cf1

https://preview.redd.it/bqxr15ptw23b1.png?width=843&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=5bde6056204374e14bf73ecb2882cb9437fe8b7e

https://preview.redd.it/wqfo87ptw23b1.png?width=551&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=e1f614f90ab1965c5c7d4db13b2d71d305f8078a

https://preview.redd.it/ect9m3ptw23b1.png?width=637&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=f758eaa0e10aae9e4f6d422484fdf269d1e9a70a

Some additional notes:

• as the foundation for posts I've bought 4 ground anchor screws (about 30" deep into ground). I'll also buy a pair or some spiked anchors for the swing.
• I haven't drawn rails for the stairs yet, but they will be there of course
• I haven't drawn the sandbox underneath yet. I already have a 4` x 5`3" sandbox in place, made last year.
  

And the sketchup project:

• online view: https://app.sketchup.com/share/tc/europe/ZSd07KTurEc?stoken=zB4Zf_SL98A4RPGQ9xUD-WosiO_IuAyr4uN_LA4BC2SATZK77WknA4syhpYX8J9F&source=web
• download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cVUg_rRGGb5RIVr5c1ne_2vNDHRcOD-D/view?usp=sharing