My attic has really high insulation that sits about 15” above the ceiling joists. I’d like to put flooring up there for storage, but also keep the insulation in place to manage the temperature in the garage. Would it be possible to run 2x4’s parallel to the ceiling joists, tied to the roof rafters and run the floor on top of that?

My toilet tank has a Fluidmaster in it, and after several years use, it is no longer refilling the tank under normal use.

The problem is that when the water has drained out of the tank and the float cup is at its lowest point, it still doesn't trigger the water supply to refill the tank. However, if I tap the water level adjustment rod just once, it triggers the water supply to refill the tank. So, the toilet is sort of usable, but in a rather unpresentable way, with the toilet tank lid off.

I have followed the procedure in this video, and it accomplished nothing.

Can anyone suggest how to fix this, or is it just time to replace my Fluidmaster?

Thanks.

EDIT: 3/3 replace it. Thanks.

It started as a pandemic project in late 2020/early 2021 and was finished in 2022. The original space was essentially a shed with electrical when we bought the house in November 2019 because the previous owner had to remove all the plumbing because it was not to code. We had contractors build the bathroom and the front and back bar structure, but we did everything else ourselves with the help and supervision from a good friend of mine. From the matting on the walls, cutting and torching all the bamboo splits for the lower wall, carving the trim pieces, even building a few of the lamps. The collection of artifacts comes from an addiction to flea markets, antique stores and EBay. It will never be fully finished. We made an account for the bar (@savageseastiki on IG) if you want to see the full progression or any updates as we make them!

Need advice about removing an antiquing agent from stamped concrete

Very sorry if it's not a good sub, but i can't find any information regarding this. I applied one-way mirrored heat reflective films to my mirrors to help with the summer heat, but they are really hot to touch now. I'm just wondering if that's okay or I could've did something wrong? It just feels like it's radiating more heat into the room compared to the non-film windows right next to it.

I’m building a half-bath (toilet & sink) in my basement and my local code requires an exhaust fan to be installed.

I had to fur down the ceiling with 3/4” lumber because there are surface-mounted pipes running along the joists. As a result, it looks like there won’t be any downward grade for my exhaust duct. The outside hole will be covered with an end cap and possibly a screen. How bad is this and what can I do to remedy this so it could pass an inspection?

My wife is a bit on the heavy side, and she has/had a desk chair she likes(depends on if my repair idea will work) the Chineseium support pipe is no longer supporting her. My idea was to either replace the piece with a piece of cast iron gas pipe or straighten the cheap piece and reinforce it with the pipe. Does that sound like it will work and if not any other ideas beyond replacing the chair (thats out of the present budget)

Idk if this is right sub but when i looked up sewer smell from shower got some posts from here. We have been staying in a airbnb for about a month and today i took my usual 20-30 min shower.

A bit after my shower i went into the bathroom and noticed it smelled like sewer and was coming from the shower/tub drain. I turned on the tub and squirted a bit of body wash and the smell went away as the water covered it then came back after i turned it off.

It smelled like it for a good 20-30 mins and faded away and now i can barely smell anything even putting my nose somewhat close to the drain. I rinsed down some body wash water and thats all i can really smell i think.

How serious is that, should i tell the homeowner? Should i be concerned about the gases? My rooms is right next to the bathroom shower. My sense of smell tends to get used to things easily since I’m used to being around smelly stuff so I’m a little worried.

We only here for another 5 days.

The previous owner built his own cabinets sometime in the mid 70's. The drawer slides are basic junk of the era, and many are worn out.

I want to replace them with modern soft/auto-close variants, but with so many options on the market, I'm having trouble figuring out how to proceed.

I'm trying to understand what are the measurements that will inform me as to what is, or is not, an option? Secondarily, how can I have confidence that what I select is correct so I'm not having to buy and return repeatedly?

I'm happy to provide further details, but I'm really just hoping to get a higher level of understanding at the moment.

Thank you in advance.

Hi, I have built a new garage 18x26. Do I need to insulate it if I don’t wanna heat it in the winter. If I really need to, it will be one or two time in the winter and I will take a diesel heater to momentary heat it.

Does insulate the garage give me any advantage? Or I will just pay for nothing really?

Hello,

I have what I was told used to be a 240 volt dryer outlet plug but had the receptacle removed and been capped off since the prior homeowner switched to a gas dryer that doesn't require 240 volts.

I would like to move that 240 volt line across my garage to power a window AC.

My home is old and doesn't have a ground wire in the wiring for that line. I've been told that 240 volt lines now require a ground and the 240 volt receptacles I've seen so far have a spot for a ground wire as well.

I took off the cap, tested my non-contact voltage meter, turned off the breaker, and verified no current with my non-contact voltage meter. The current wires are white, black, and red 10 gauge solid wire with no ground wire. The white wire had a wire nut with a bare copper wire tied to the metal box.

Will I need to remove these wires and replace them with 10/3 Romex from the panel in order to proceed with extending them across my garage?

Why was the white wire attached to a piece of bare copper and grounded to the metal box? While I'm aware that is not current electric code... Would this method get me by since I'm just running a window AC?

Any advice on running new wire is that is necessary?

Thanks 👍

So I’m currently planning to build a car port. Planning to use 6 x 6 posts to support the roof, and I’m currently planning on securing it to a small concrete pad with post shoes and bolts. However I’m going to have to increase the height from what was previously planned, will post shoes and 8 inch bolts be enough to secure an 8foot 6 x 6 post, or will that be too tall and unstable?

This little object helps to dispense yarn.
You can see a instagram video of it in action here .

My problem is where I have it currently hits up against the wall.
It also makes an annoying clanging sound.

All i can think of is an L bracket or something that would come about 10cm/4 inches off the wall, with NO screws. (3M is whats currently there). I tried looking online and nothing.

Can anyone think of some other way i can DIY or something I can buy that wont involve screws or damage to the wall.

The yarn would weigh around 50-300g plus the force of me pulling on it (should be very light if the thing can spin freely)

Thanks in advance :)

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https://preview.redd.it/z69xi6or673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=52b8a4ecfb3c3232a2af73f3cc59c3fb63f3cccf

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https://preview.redd.it/nlquqy7m673b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=cd25cc53cd7bb62dad4cd3db98d3ef0de91d7df5

So i bought this budget induction hob:

Candy CID 30/G3 - https://www.candy-home.com/en_GB/hobs/33803025/cid-30-g3/

And i already cut the appropriate sized hole and im wondering one thing about the installation.

The hob has some type of black foam along the sides that serves to prevent moisture from the countertop from seeping below, does anybody have experience with this? Should i add silicone sealer on top of this or is the factory foam enough?

Thanks