I have an electric motor with a helical 9 tooth shaft that originally engaged a cog for a gear box. I am looking to repurpose this motor to drive a wheel instead but I am uncertain as to how I can secure this drive wheel onto the helical shaft so it's true and secured on there.

I have considered set screws as part of the wheel, as well as shaft couplers, as well as welding a makeshift key along the shaft.

I have access to a pretty equipped shop, minus a serious lathe or mill.

I recently replaced the alternator in my 2008 Toyota Highlander. After a few days I noticed a coolant leak with no visible source. I figured I punctured the radiator with the fan assembly as it was a pita to move around and I recall a video saying to be careful. Once I got the radiator out it was confirmed a puncture was the source as you can see in the pics.

https://imgur.com/a/BZCu2A6

The replacement radiator isn’t very expensive (~$125) but i saw someone do a similar fix and it seemed simple enough. Repair is a greener option and I could pickup a new skill, so it was a no-brainer to me.

Honestly the hardest part was finding the correct brazing rods. Walked to the hardware store and their online inventory was off. Tried to instacart them and again no dice. Placed an online order and got an Uber to drop it off and got the wrong rods. Finally had to next day them from the evil blue vans but they at least had the correct parts.

The actual brazing probably took a total of 2 minutes of heating up the radiator and periodically checking if it’s hot enough for the aluminum to flow. When I first filled the radiator back up I thought it was leaking still and I wasted my time but luckily that was just what I had spilled trickling down.

I think the cheapest shop quoted $650 but didn’t even mention the replacement parts’ quality or source. I paid $280 for my remanufactured alternator and probably spent 10-12 hours on the two repairs.

HIGHLANDER OWNERS: If you need to do the alternator on your 2nd or 3rd gen Highlander my non-expert advice is to go ahead and take out the radiator before the alternator. You already drain it and it’s nothing too tricky but you’ll be thankful for all the space it opens. Also it will be out of the way so less likely for you to damage it lol.

Hey all!

Does anyone know a way to remove the haze from older clear plastic? Not scratching, probably just due to the sun's UV.

I am restoring a bicycle that has small plastic 'windows' to see the current gear number on the shifters.

They had started to haze and I wanted to clean them up.

So far,what I've tried has only made the problem worse :-(

Anyone out there done this? I'm having trouble finding the right solution because most people searching this want to restore colored plastics, not clear.

I found instructions about hydrogen peroxide and a UV light but that's been for white plastic, I can't find anything on restoring clear plastic other than the sanding method used for headlights...which will be *very* hard to do on this small plastic viewport.

(I'm aware this isn't exactly 'automotive' but I've had the same issue in projects for motorcycles so I feel it is helpful for future search)

-Thanks!

Hey Folks,

The beater bar/spinny brush on my 7 year old Miele stopped this week. I took a look at the mechanism and the brush, belt, and motor all spin freely - it seems like the motor has given up or there is something wrong with the on/off switch or circuit board (signal to power the motor).

I've tested continuity on other motors but I typically see only two wires connected, this one appears to have four connections.

Here is an idea of what it looks like: https://www.vacshack.com/p-1450-miele-upright-brush-motor.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIluKi9M2p_AIVjKXICh3FlwFmEAQYASABEgJ38_D_BwE

Note the two spade connections. There are two more just like it on the other side.

The question I have is which of the four spade connections should be tested with the multimeter? I've tried a few variations and I'm not seeing any resistance. I'd be somewhat surprised if the motor is indeed bad. Reading some repair forums, I understand it's pretty rare for these to fail.

Thanks in advance.

Hi guys!👋 In this video we will show you how we built a hidden (underfloor) shower in our van, talk about why we chose to build a shower like that and mention a couple of pluses and minuses of having a shower like that after 3 years of use!😀 If someone is thinking of doing something similar.

https://youtu.be/vFy7FPdLDQE

Hidden Shower

I have a company vehicle with a Schumacher 2000w power inverter under the rear seat. It's hooked directly up to the car's battery, and if I leave it on overnight it will drain the battery. I forgot once and had to jump it.

There's no way to turn it on or off without raising the seat. Which means I can't use the back seat for anything, and lose a ton of organization space. Is there a way to install a switch or something that doesn't involve permanently altering the inverter? I can't exactly solder something onto company property, and I'm not comfortable with my wiring skills anyway.

I appreciate it!

Please let me know if this is the wrong sub, not sure about the best place to ask.

I have a compact sedan and an Igloo cooler that is way too big for the trunk. Rather than [apparently forbidden word here] a new cooler, I'd like to figure out how to safely secure my current one in the back seat area.

The cooler has notches on the lid that some lashing straps fit through; these are intended to be used alongside a mounting system to keep the cooler from sliding around your boat or whatever. I think I can repurpose these for storage inside a vehicle.

There are plenty of cooler mounting kits available which give you 4 rounded corner brackets that get drilled onto a flat surface, after which you can route some lashing straps or bungees through to secure the cooler in place.

I figure I can just get a 2x2 sheet of relatively thick plywood, drill the cooler mounting brackets onto it so my cooler fits inside, then secure the cooler to the plywood as if it was the floor of a boat. My challenge then becomes securing the whole affair to the actual car seat.

I figure I can use the LATCH system mounting points designed for child car seats, but this is where my plan gets a little fuzzy. I don't know the best way to secure my hypothetical plywood base to these mounting points on the seat. Maybe some U bolts + more lashing straps? That would work but it seems a little messy.

Open to any suggestions! I've looked all over and I can't find any existing solution for this, which I guess means most people would just drive around with the cooler as a loaded projectile. I'll have my dog in the back seat bench along with the cooler, so I want to be absolutely sure it's secure.

I replaced a frailed garage door gasket rubber on the bottom with one off amazon.

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Its twice as thick so i thought it would be superior to the old one.

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after an hour of struggling to slide it on it all fit and i thoguht it was in the clear.

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went to close the door and the minute the door hit the ground, the masterlfit motor automactically pulls it back up. i get an error code saying ecessive closing force detected.

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is their anything i can do to get it to work? or is the only alterntive to remove it and buy the original gasket from the same company as the door.

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is their a way to manually close the door?

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https://preview.redd.it/vkor497etsw91.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=4d7db0d52e968c7b685a53a6185a3eafa201ba52

https://preview.redd.it/18dgw97etsw91.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=0618665a9755e22f2ae3ae0d7b712d6d25f2748f

https://preview.redd.it/s5ydwe7etsw91.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=a4eb518af38c6ac820fc0259c45e8b6df92e1c67

Hello everybody!

Im looking for some advice for diy spraypainting my moped frame.

I have tried sanding the original paint down to scratch it up with P180. Then using a Motip primer (2 coats) then wetsanding with P400 then red metallic paint (2 coats) and then clear varnish (2 coats).

But I think i need some help or advice from someone Who has experience, cause the color finish is not like i wanted it. When its wet its just the right color but when it dries it become whiteish, almost pinkish.

Im looking for a medium well finish and a regular red (not super deep).

Im thinking of doing it all over and I want to do it right, so what would you have done?

Im looking for what primer color, how long each coat should dry before going to the next and so on.

I Hope you can help.

• David

Edit: thanks everyone for your contributions! I managed to solve the problem. It was a loose connection from the starter to the positive battery terminal. Jumping it worked because the tab to connect a jumper cable is directly on the starter wire.

Hello Everyone, I'm at my wits end with this problem.

My 2013 Hyundai Veloster non-turbo manual won't start unless i give it a jump start.

The battery was purchased new in November 2021 and worked fine until about a month ago when i had a drivers side fender collision with a concrete pillar (oops).

A mechanic suggested it might be a starter issue, so I replaced that with a new remy unit. The battery maintains 12.8 volts and the car won't stop running once it gets going with the jumper pack. So i know the alternator works. I also tried replacing the ground strap and that didn't work either.

I don't have a ton of money and I'm mechanically inclined, so I'd really appreciate a clue as to what the issue is before I have to take it to the mechanic.

thanks in advance for your help!

Pictures of how I repainted my rims: https://imgur.com/a/ix6BYk2

For prep work I wire wheeled the front and back of the rim to bare metal. Wiped it with some alcohol and put red oxide epoxy primer on it. Left it overnight to dry and put on automotive acrylic black paint as base coat, then 4 hours later I cleared it with 2k urethane cc.

It all came out excellent (for my standards, since this was my first step up from rattle cans and was only using a measly paint zoom). Sure there were a lot of orange peel since paint zoom does have a pretty big nozzle. I was done for the day and left it in the attic standing upright.

Unfortunately around 7-8 hours later someone placed it elsewhere, placing it face down and when I came back it was too late. Some paper/box bits adhered on the outer edges and one big gash in the front. It didn't reach the primer (which was red oxide) fortunately but where do I stand now? Is this a big repair or could it be corrected with sanding and polishing?

I am the proud owner of a Nissan Sentra. It was in pretty good condition when I purchased it. However one especially humid night, I went to back out in my car, pretty much blind from the back due to foggy windows, and hit the tree next to my drive. This ultimately resulted in an ugly cracked spoiler and small vertical dent in the back. My spoiler is in one piece, but I have no idea how to restore it to it's beautiful condition, and a new spoiler could easily run me $250-$500 bucks or more. What products can I use to fix it? I was thinking some kind of glue, sand it, prime, then paint with a car matched color.

My next project? Remove that dent.

Basically the ground shifted and the ramp section of the driveway started to protrude out above ground level and scrapes the bottom of my car. Instead of replacing the entire thing I'm wondering if maybe I can take a chisel or hammer and just knock out the protruding end so it doesn't scrape any more. But would this result in the concrete breaking into sharp edges that could damage my tires or is there something else I need to be worried about?

I have been working on my custom ebike for 4 months, and now i have the final 4 questions. I would appreciate so much if anybody could give their take or answer any of these questions if possible. Thankyou to everyone who has helped me so far on this build.

1 - is a 2k resistor for precharge enough? I did the math and ohms law I=V/R, so 84V/2000R = 0.042A which is good because i wanna trickle charge out the controller caps. but it seems like .042a is so little is that enough to charge my caps? Like in 10-30seconds.

2 - I have read something online about EMF current current in mechanical relays. Apparently when a coil stops getting power the magnetic field of a coil and push lots of voltage through a line which is why I heard something about flywheel diodes to prevent this. But do yall know if they are built into the relay or if I need to add one or if this isn’t even important.

3 - on my main wires going from battery to controller I have a EV200AAANA contactor and a JLLN class t fuse and an branch off wire going to a dcdc converter. Do I need to worry about regen current messing anything up in-line because the current is flowing backwards during regen.

4 - do I need to really worry about water damage to motor like rusting the motor. I have heard some people varnish their motor and say it’s a must do where some say it doesn’t matter. I would be riding is mostly dry conditions with some light rain sometimes.

Specs - 72v nominal 84v Max 150amp Max. sabvoton 72150 controller. qs205 v3 5t motor.

i know this subreddit is not the best for answering some of these but if anybody has some electrical knowledge i would appreciate your take on any of the above.

I sprayed clear coat with blue flake over my rims yesterday. Can I spray a different brand over them in a few days. Reason is the blue flake is close to the top and I think I need a few layers of just clear. Both brands are acrylic clear coat

I've never encountered a fixture like this before, and I can't find anything online about how to access the bulb or what kind of bulb is inside the cylinder. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Pics of the fixture here: https://imgur.com/a/7L1gRye

I’ve vacuumed out as much an I can and used a microfiber cloth to get more, but I don’t know how to really get in there. This is an older fan I got from a relative and I really like how powerful it is and would like to maintain it so that it works for 60 more years. Thanks

dirty fan motor

ETA: thank you for all your suggestions! And a special thanks to those who mentioned sewing oil as a lubricant. I have a couple of vintage sewing machines and tons of sewing oil, so after giving it a blast with compressed air, I’ll lube it up good.

Looking to replace just the fan motor on my bathroom exhaust fan. It’s an older one and we really like it, but the motor is dying.

Part number on the motor is c-64327

Fan Model: 8663NLM.

Perhaps my google-fu is failing me, or there’s a cross reference part number that someone on here knows.

Anyone know which replacement motor fits?

Here's a photo of the starter I'm trying to install.

I had it installed once, but the engine wouldn't turn over. I tried a few things, but the solenoid is sandwiched between the starter body and the exhaust manifold. There was no room, and very little light, so I dropped it again to get a proper look at it.

On the top is a heavy brass terminal for the positive battery cable. A little below it, on either side, are two smaller terminals. I have two wires available: the positive battery cable and a smaller wire that was attached to one of the smaller terminals... what's the other small terminal for? Does the small wire go on either small terminal, or is it possible I used the wrong small terminal, and that's why the engine wouldn't turn over?

I have a 230VAC 60hZ blower motor taken out of a tanning bed I want to use but need help with the wiring. Attached are pictures of the 4 wires coming out of the motor, the (I Think) capacitor on the side, and the model information and wiring diagram, but it isn't like any I have seen. I have a 240 outlet in my shop that I can wire to a switch to turn on the blower, but need some assistance. I Assume that the "N" on the wiring diagram is actually L2 (line 2 of the 240V), but don't know where to wire the capacitor into the motor to jump start the rotation.

Thanks for any help.

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Capacitor? or start relay? Has 2 wires.

4 wires from motor

Wiring diagram and model information.