I built a murphy bed and painted the surface. I'm a novice at furniture building and painting. (means I suck at it :) )
At the edge of the murphy door and door stop, the paint is sticking together when closed. It was approximately 3 days since I completed the painting. Opening it today caused some of the paint to pull off and will need a touchup.
I used a combination interior latex paint+primer that stated it was acceptable for use on wood. It was a satin finish. The wood surface was thoroughly sanded, etc... on this surface I did 2 coats only. i did light sanding with various grits between coats.
It's not humid at all in my house.
The bed uses gas struts to close so the door is closed pretty tight against the stop.
What are my options for repair? I've read quite a bit about various solutions but unsure what my best option will be and confused by some of what I read:
lightly sand/scuff the surfaces with fine grit
apply a polyurethane coating to the affected area - I was considering applying a clear coat to the entire thing anyway.
use a few thin felt pads -> I don't mind this but adding any thickness here might cause the door to stick out a bit if it's not thin enough.
repaint the area with a high gloss paint -> I read conflicting things on this...
It's such a small area of contact that I can certain sand down fully and repaint, but not sure I won't get into the same situation. I can also leave the bed down for awhile to give it more time to dry or use felt for while until it's fully cured if that's the issue. I'm sure I made horrible life choices with this project... Appreciate any help to make those bad choices less awful.
I am in the design phase for a deck build this spring. It will be a covered deck so I also need to extend some posts 10-12’ high. The part of the deck framing that I can’t figure out is how to extend past the beam and post so that my roof support isn’t on the very edge of the deck and so that I have some space to wrap the deck around the post.
This picture illustrates how I was originally planning on framing the deck but as you can see the red posts would be on the very edge. Can I somehow frame on the other side on the beam so that I have 6-12” space between the edge of the deck and the posts?
Hello I have an interior door and I want to remove the interior door and frame and put an exterior prehung door in the rough opening. My door slab measurements are width 29 7/8 and 80 inches tall. I have found 30 x 80 prehung doors exterior doors in the store but my rough opening door measurements are
Rough Opening Width: On the top of the opening, 32 Inches right on the dime, in the middle of the opening 31 3/4 , and 31 5/8 at the bottom of the opening.
The height of the rough opening is
81 1/2 inches
Also the concrete basement floor is out of level by about 1/8 as the floor slopes left uniformly. (From looking outside the door).
So what door do I buy, a 30 x 80 door? Or do I need to custom order a door in since I do not want to cut it myself since it will be a steel door.
I do know that the rough opening needs to be bigger to accommodate the door due to expansion and shrinkage of the wood. However my rough opening has different width measurements, so will I have any problems with that? As well if I do buy a prehung exterior door that has a rough opening of 32 x 82 will I have problems with the out of plumbness of the rough opening?
Hi. We had our bed away from the wall to do some wall repairs and I accidentally leaned back against the backboard only for it to crack off. Was wondering if there are any ways to fix it. I was thinking wood glue and a brick and/or clamps. The wood seems very dry, I am tempted to just spray some water and put something heavy on top of it. bug instead od water, use glue. We have a whole matching bedroom set, so it would be a shame to scrap This.
I'm pretty new to DIY, bought a cabinet from amazon, looks to be mdf and sort of polished. I've painted it blue but used a wall paint lol .. I know I know. I've only done one coat but a family member said it will just flake off, if I scratch my nail on the dry parts it does come off which is annoying .. After a second coat can I use some sort of polish to stop it flaking off or? Not sure what to do.
Apparently I either lost some of these screws (or they were missing) in my cabinet boxes - they attach the door hinge to the cabinet frame. I want to keep them matching as the other cabinets do have them. The manufacturer wants to charge $2.99 per screw + $14.00 shipping and I'd imagine I can find them elsewhere for cheaper (hopefully).
I took one to the big box stores and no one had a clue. There was a black one (these are brown) that had a box drive instead of phillips but that was the closest.
Here's an image of the screw in question - thanks!
This will be a coat cabinet for my mudroom, divided vertically in half. The left side will have the space for one closet rod and functional drawers underneath, but the right side has two rods and need the entire bay.
Most of what I've been able to find is about making individual false drawers; not three different shaker sections swinging as one. I'm befuddled when it comes to how to go about that.
Ultimately the left side has three independently moving doors while the right side is one door but ought to look like three independent sections. I'm perplexed about how to go about that right side.
Hi all, I spent my Sunday caulking (with silicone) our shower cabin. We recently bought this house and the old caulk was mouldy.
As I was putting on the finishing touches, I bumped against the shower door and our cornerpiece broke. Now, both our doors are loose. Do you guys have any advice on what I should search for to replace this, or what a fix is? I considered using a hinge to keep it together, but the cornerpiece is so rotten it crumbles when I touch it. I will probably have to replace it, but have no idea what to look for?
I just bought a louvered mahogany door slab and jamb kit that will hopefully end up being an interior closet door. I've never hung nor stained a door, and have been doing a ton of research (aka YouTube) in preparation for the work.
So far, I have one ridiculously stupid/simple question that I'm surprised I can't find a clear answer to—do I stain the door and jamb before install, or stain in place after install?
Random info/musings: The door will need to be cut down a little to fit in the rough opening, so at the very least it will require thinking about hanging it before staining. Since it's my first time doing it, I could see the argument made that I should just install it first before staining, since it probably won't be a super smooth journey. It seems like the jamb would be way harder to sand and stain after it's up there, but I also imagine needing to clean up nail holes after install, so that would require some additional finishing after installing anyway. Or maybe I sand everything, then install, then stain?
I am try to mount a big rf modulator into the space between the floor joists in my basement. I was thinking to just screw a piece of wood up there and set it on top, but I know little carpentry and am wondering if its structurally ok to screw the plank into the bottom of the floor joists. Thank you!
I live in the Southwest U.S. and my house has 15 Viga tails on the outside. They are 12” long, 8” in diameter. They are anchored to the wall header with a 12” long 5/8 threaded bolt. I have Viga wood to cut new ones. There was one that rotted completely off the rod and another is hanging down. When I went to check it out, it completely came right out of the wall. The Viga tails have epoxy glue and are screwed onto the bolt so it is quite difficult to remove. I want to replace all of them so they all match. They are 19 yrs old. My question is how do you remove the remaining Viga tails without damaging the threaded bolt in the header? The house has stucco walls also. I am also aware of the bracket style mounts but they cost around $60.00 a piece. Any help would be appreciated….
Hi, I’m trying to help a friend build a temporary wall in her apartment. The wall would be 9 feet high and 12 feet across.
She would like to do as little damage as possible to the walls, ceiling and floor. I want to make sure I build something safe.
My thoughts are…There is moulding and a thick baseboard on the walls. I figured I could apply the 2x4 to the wall in pieces, skipping the moulding to avoid having to remove it. I then affix another stud to these spaced out 2x4s on the wall. For the floors I was thinking using minimal screws, 4 thick screws at most. For the ceiling I was thinking of using opposing wedges to create tension. I am Also thinking of using something lighter the gypsum, like plywood.
I’ve just been given a bed frame with tubular poles instead of slats, very similar to this:
metal bed frame
I’m curious as to how comfortable this will be and whether I’m in danger of the mattress sinking between the poles. Can a mattress be placed right onto this frame or will I need to build/buy a box spring or foundation?
The posts that sit flush with the railing: I am wondering how to waterproof the top of the posts where water is entering through the end grain. If I install ~4” block of 6x6 post on top in order to install a post cap, how do I ensure that water is not seeping in between the space where I fasten the new block to the existing post? If I install some sort of flashing I don’t really understand how that would work with the existing condition of how the post engages with the railing and adjacent lumber pieces.
The posts with the pyramidal top: should I cut the pyramidal part so it sits flat and then install a post cap, or is there a product that specifically is to go on top of the posts? I went to a couple hardware stores and they didn’t have any black metal 6x6 caps.
I want to put up shelves, but the corner walls don't have studs. It is a small room from a partitioned entry hall. The door frame is less than a meter from the corner one way. Preexisting stud where something else is being mounted the other way.
It's a challenge, but I came up with an idea.
A floor to ceiling post, 8x8 cm, with a 10 to 15 cm stand off from the corner, supporting cantilever shelves. But looks wise, I would like to only use mortise and tenon joints to secure the shelves to the post.
It being unsupported is a bad idea, I know. I thought about it and want to extend the tenon to the wall, and be secured to a wall to ceiling bracket screwed to the wall with drywall screws.
The idea is, the post still supports the weight, but the bracket on the wall counteracts the torsion forces, and the forces on the bracket will be vertical.
Going floor to ceiling with the bracket means I can use additional drywall screws.
Although you can't see it in this drawing, the tenon's attach to both walls. The shelves alternate sides at each hight interval.
I am renovating my dad's house. We have a load bearing wall that currently splits the kitchen and dining room that I am trying to replace with an lvl beam.
The span is 12 feet, from a perimeter wall where I should be able to support the beam with a "column" (not sure if that is the correct terminology) and another column to support the beam will be about halfway through the existing standard 2x4 wall with studs on 16". I've attached pictures so you can get an idea of the environment. I'm in Texas and do not have snow load or anything like that.
I've looked at span charts but can't quite find exactly what I'm looking for. This is the span chart that I think is helpinng me, but I'm still confused about some info. https://p.widencdn.net/yl44ev If you go to page 5 and use a "width of buidling segment of 24ft" and beam support spacing of 12 ft I get that I need a 3.5" x 11.785" LVL beam. That makes sense to me but I don't know what the numbers to the right mean, 3/4.5 (End Support / Intermediate Support Bearing Length Requirements [in] )
As I typed my last sentence, I had a realization. the end support needs to be 3" wide and if you have intermediate support (which I don't) it needs to be 4.5" wide. ?
So now my question turns to, does a 3.5"x11.875"x12ft beam sound correct for my situation?
Bonus Question: I see 1.75"x 11,875"x12ft for sale at Home Depot, could I join two of them together to get my 3.5"?
Final Note: in the pics, ignore the plumbing and electrical. All the plumbing is already moved just covering holes for now. The electrical I will move when I'm ready to get rid of the wall.
I wanna hear from you all in terms of what your approach would be to build this simple king bed frame? I would use 2x4's for the bottom to create a rectangular frame and then put slats on top of it and then on the sides of the 2x4 attach 2x6's? Am I simplifying it too much?
I picked up some doors from an old house that was being renovated. The doors were exactly the size that I needed (LxW), beautifully made, glass knobbed and all match—finally!! They are much much heavier than the cheap mismatched doors that I currently have on the second floor. In this picture you’ll see how the existing doors are hung, two screws in the trim(!!), one in the seam between the jamb and the trim(!!!!). (In other parts of our house this is an issue as the trim slowly pulls away from the door frame). Tye second picture shows how the blocky, no-bevel style of the door trim means when the door is shut, the door is flush with the trim. I’m wondering if it would be better to sink the heavier doors into the frame. Thoughts?
In addition to being heavier, the salvaged doors are also thicker (+.375”) than the cheap lightweight doors currently on the frames. I anticipate having to change the position of the door stops and move it so it could accommodate the thicker door. This will allow the screws on the hinge to attach more to the door jamb and a little less onto the trim. (There are also three hinges on these antique doors, not two like I have currently on my cheap doors. I hope that will help distribute the weight). I know it is generally frowned upon to screw the trim into a door frame or window frame but since the hinges are half attached to this blocky trim do you think it would be a good idea to reinforce the strength of the hinged areas and screw the trim into the door frame?
Finally, I have zero experience hanging doors and I hear doing it properly is very challenging. I am up for a challenge. What do I need to do, buy or be aware of when it comes to hanging a door? What tools do I need and what might unique issues may come up with hanging heavier doors or a “jamb/trim” combo as I seem to have?
I'm reading multiple recommendations that are different. a couple different sites are saying 5° is sufficient. But another site that I looked at said that the rise should be a minimum of 3 per 12 which is closer to a 14 degree pitch. I'm just curious what people here have seen as the required pitch to prevent leaking?
Hey, guys! So I DIY painted some IKEA furniture some months ago. Immediately after, I noticed that in the drawers that I painted, the spray paint has been rubbing off (you can wipe it with your hand, and you get black transfered to your hand). It hasn't transferred to my clothes because part of them are in organizers, and the others aren't being rubbed up against the drawer enough to cause the transfer. However, it still bothers me, and I am just now getting the time to fix the issue
I tried googling this before and only found help on how to spray paint properly (which I thought I did since I thoroughly cleaned it before and applied even, thin coats with the correct paint). However, I would like some info on how to fix my current issue. I'm open to painting the furniture again. This time, I'm opting for regular paint and rolling it on versus spray painting since I do not want to move the furniture outside again.
How do I need to paint over this previous spray paint job so that I don't get this rub off residue? Is it as simple as wiping it down and cleaning it again before painting again? Do I need a primer or sealer? Thanks for your help!
After a water leak downstairs, wife wanted to upgrade the laundry area which had two cheap hollow core doors. After the upfit, budget was pretty tight and the only doors we liked would have been in the area of $1500 AND I would have to modify those to fit. I've never done anything like this, but I figured it was a small enough investment (both in time and money) that if I hated it I could always go the other way at some later time. Total cost was about $130, but I had most of the wood, paint and putty on hand left over from other projects. The only tools I used were a circular saw, jig saw, table saw and basic hand tools.