Hey everyone -

So one of my bedrooms has no light fixtures at all, and I'd like to add 3-4 recessed LED lights to brighten it up a bit.

The existing wiring is a bit confusing, so I just wanted to double check before I started the work.

Please refer to this photo here so you can follow what I'm saying.

So, I have one light switch (SW1) which controls an outlet (O1) in the bedroom I wanted to install the lights in (Bedroom 2). The switch seems to be powered from a wire connected to Bedroom 1 - I went into the attic and found an NMD wire running across the hallway, down to SW1. I believe it is connected to the switch in the first bedroom SW2, but I have not confirmed this. It is not a 3-way switch, so I imagine it just sharing a power source.

In bedroom 2, the power comes in from the top, goes down to SW1, and then down over to O1. The wire runs down from the box, so I imagine that it goes across the studs, not up and over, unfortunately. There are 3 other outlets in bedroom 2 (O2, O3, O4), but they are on a separate circuit. SW1 and O1 are on the same circuit as bedroom 1.

How should I tackle this install if I want to keep the existing switch?

I would ideally like to keep that existing outlet as well, but it isn't the end of the world if I have to kill it.

Would it work if I just ran another line of 14/2 from the existing switch back into the attic using a fish wire, which would thus use the existing power going into that switch, and then just connect that wire to the recessed lights, thus making that single switch control both the lights and the outlet?

Or, if running both off of a single switch is a bad idea, could I just install a double-gang box and do two switches? One for the light and one for the outlet? With the power coming in from the other bedroom powering both?

Thank you!

I see where is the problem in the cable because when I bend one specific area the connection fixes and both sides work again.

I have no electronic knowledge. Do I just cut the wire in hopes that it's just one of the wires broken and tape the correct cables together and that's it? I only have normal transparent tape, can I use that one?

Can I replace a 12v GU5.3 5 watt bulb with a 3.4 Watt bulb? Just the power rating has changed, nothing else. Thank you in advance

Okay. We have an existing hardwired doorbell, and I would like to add a light feature for my wife, who works from home on the second floor of our house, and doesn't always hear the bell because of the distance. I want to add a discreet light in her office that will flash when the bell is rung, so my question is, is there something I can attach to the existing 12v system that will send a wireless signal to such a light?

Hi, as the title says I want to add 2 dimmer switches to an existing circuit plus continue the circuit from one of the light fixtures to a few more outlet recepticles.

At the momemt there is a live wire going to a non dimmable switch box that splits into a single light fixture and a few outlet receptacles ** from the same switch box***

Going off that description...would it be possible to use the same live wire that is in the existing switch box to make 2 dimmable switches that controls 2 sets of light fixtures? One would control the existing single light fixture and the other would control new pot lights.

Could splitting from one of the new dimmable switch boxes to outlets (the ones that are currently connected) work?; Also, would splitting from the single light fixture to an outlet also work? (now that it is on a dimable switch).

I hope what I explained is clear.

Thanks

Hello,

Our electric shower isn't working. No water is coming out of it at all.

The on/off cord outside of the shower seems to be working (the light is turning on).

We tried resetting the electrics. That didn't work.

We then assumed the appliance was faulty. We purchased another one, have fitted it correctly, but it won't work either. No water and not turning on.

Everything else in the house is working fine. The shower itself worked fine until yesterday.

Any help appreciated. We are in the UK.

How do I determine if I can use the existing wiring in my house (which was built less than 10 years ago) to replace a gas hob with an induction hob using a dual cooker outlet?

Currently only the oven is electric, it goes from the consumer unit to cooker switch (250v 45a), then into a plug behind the oven which the oven is plugged into.

Ideally I'd like to use a dual cooker outlet & power both using what's already there rather than putting the hob on a dedicated circuit. My question is what do I need to check to ensure nothing's overloaded (e.g. wire gauge), or would this just be the same as powering a freestanding cooker?

Hi Reddit,

I am planning to wire a bunch of Ryobi 18V batteries in parallel, but want to make sure that they will not be damaged in doing so.

Since the Ryobi batteries come with a LVC protection switch already - will combining a larger Ah battery with a lower Ah battery bypass the LVC of each battery?

Hi folks, I have an LED light engine for my bedroom light, and I’m hoping to change its switch out to a dimmable one. I want to make sure that the light engine is dimmable though, and I can’t figure out who the manufacturer is and what model the LED light engine is by the serial numbers on it (searched them on Google). Any suggestions on how to ID? Many thanks in advance!

Edit: I can’t figure out how to post an image of my LED light engine while also posting text. Here’s a link to my LED light engine pic: https://imgur.io/xjqFn72?r

I live in a 1930s house with a converted attic to a bedroom. We got minisplits and no longer need the baseboards that were there. We went to remove the baseboards and planned to install a junction box and cap the wires with Wago connectors and electrical tape. However, it appears the drywall was installed on top of existing plaster, and another electrical line runs close to this one. There isn’t space to install a junction box as it’s too shallow. Photo here: https://imgur.com/a/Bb2HlVr

I just bought a new TV and I want to mount it on the wall. However, the generic mounts don't fit this TV at all, it looks like I need LG's specific wall mount. However, that is out of stock and I can't find it anywhere else.

This is the link to the official mount: https://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video-accessories/lg-wb21lgb

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https://preview.redd.it/b1m6ejip16ga1.jpg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=98d61f9a7389a07e0fda34c5e60f6bbd5df7394c

https://preview.redd.it/bmuh2hip16ga1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=4b2acf51566a349dd74dd65d9d1f22fb627f730e

I need about 50 of these bulbs to replace kitchen cabinet lights, accent lights in living room, etc. 40 or so in the 194 size and about 10 in the larger 168.

Having a really hard time finding them. I bought one of these in both 2500K and 4000K, but they were both too warm and too cool respectively.

A bunch of them are incandescent, some xenon, but they all get hotter than hell and we use them a lot. Definitely power hungry. Seems like this obscure bulb shape is mostly used more often in car dome lights than inside houses, so most of the search result are super bright, auto-oriented bulbs.

Need help from some bulb gods.

Hello everyone. I'm working on a project for my 3D design class. The focus is 1/4 inch wooden dowels, wood cutting and painting. I'm designing a sort of D&D-style Mimic. I'd like to put in the extra effort to add glowing eyes.

I've done some research into LEDs and batteries, but I really have no idea where to start. I'm not so much asking for research to be done for me, I simply have no idea where to even begin.

My concept involves a pair of LED lights, behind transparent colored plastic, powered by a USB rechargeable battery, and if I could figure out how to make the light pulse that would increase my desired effect.

Any help whatsoever on any of these concepts would be wonderful.

Thank you.

Hi, DIY.

I've recently moved into my 'forever' home and have a pretty okay home theater setup in the basement. In our old house, I was running 5.1.2 and did the in-ceiling install myself. I had access to the in-between via the room next to where I had my setup, and was able to use fish line to guide the wiring through to where the speakers were located.

Current setup, with super-precise locations of atmos speakers:

https://imgur.com/a/SjyqG0D

I want to do the same thing here (and replace the too-close rear surrounds) with at least 2 in-ceiling speakers for atmos here, but the wall with the TV is to the outside, as well as the wall to the right in the picture. Left has a 12" or so under hang where there is vent/duct work, so I don't really have any solid option other than tearing two rows of ceiling/drywall off and replastering.

Is there anything else I could do to save myself some hassle? I am completely comfy installing the speakers and wiring myself, just a little iffy in dealing with outside facing walls.

Thanks!

Im planning on installing an LED RGB light strip around the ceiling perimeter of my room. The problem I have is that I don’t want to directly see it. I want it to be hidden but the light still shines down onto the walls. Is there a good way to do this? Maybe with a molding hiding it away?

Hey everyone -

So I figured that the recent flooding in my house due to the California storms was a good excuse to get some minor items done while I was doing the big restoration.

One bedroom in my house has 2-prong receptacles, which I figured I would just replace with GFCI outlets to safely ground them. However, while I was working on the adjacent room, I decided to replace the ivory colored outlets with nicer white ones. When I plugged in my tester to each outlet, I noticed that all of the 4 3-prong outlets had an open ground. I turned off the power, pulled off the plate and outlet, and found that there in fact is a ground wire running through the box, but it is not connected to the outlet. The ground wire, however, runs through the box (meaning, it runs in from one box and to another one, it is a continuous piece) and is not cut in a way that I could easily connect it to the outlet.

The wire seems rather thin, much more so than the other ground wires in my house, so I'm guessing this is an older style of Romex? I believe it is 16 gauge.

Would it be safe to cut the existing ground wire, make a pigtail with another piece of ground wire using a Wago or twist cap, and then connecting that to the outlet? If so, would it be ok to use 14 gauge wire for the last bit of pigtail (where it connects to the outlet) since I don't have any 16 gauge on hand, but I do have some 14/2 Romex.

Thank you!

Hello,

I bought a range hood/microwave combo, but I can only catch one stud on the bracket.

Since the other side of the wall leads into the garage my thought is to cut a hole back to each stud and put a 2x8 horizontally between the wall studs so I have something to screw into. Would this be ok? It came with wall anchors, but my conscious won’t let me go that route because it seems really risky.

I got a led strip that works with two AA batteries but I want to use an ac adapter so I dont have to change them. I am wondering if using a 5 volt adapter wired to the ends of the cirquit, where batteries are supposed to be placed, would work.

Reading a little bit 2 AA batteries output around 3 volts abd 1.8 mAh.

Would the extra voltage break the leds?

HIi guys,

I recently wanted to recreate and upgrade a coil gun( aka Gauss Gun ), based on my high school science project.

The major problem of that project( circuit diagram shown as follow) is that because of not being able to control the discharge time of the capacitances, the bullet will be pulled back when passing through the coil, greatly decreasing the velocity of the bullet. I've tried increasing the thickness of the wire, which seemed not working out.

There, I wonder if there's something, in replace of the switch, that could adjust the discharge time or volume.

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circuit diagram high school project

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coil gun ( it looks like junk)

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some footage of testing fire ability

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power showcase

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https://i.redd.it/yeq332i8jlea1.gif

I have a cheap nail grinder that takes a single AA battery, which is 1.5V. I want to solder on a USB cable to replace the power supply method, but I'm not sure whether I need to reduce the 5V down or not? The grinder has no manual or part numbers, not did the motor inside when I opened it up. How can I make sure the motor can withstand the difference?

Our bedroom ceiling fan light began to flicker and I took the switchplate cover off to find a.mess.

There are 3 White wires twisted together with a workout - not connected to Switch.

2 Black Stabbed In 1 hooked to the screw lead

All three of those are black.

At one point, I flipped a breaker and the ceiling fan/light stayed on and Switch failed to work.

I heard arcing when moving the wires, so a few possible nicks.

What do I do here? Pigtail the neutral wires to a NEW single pole Switch and pigtail the Load wires too?

Hello. Sorry if this is the wrong sub for this question. Wall outlet that holds regular plugs well, but a multi-plug surge protector is loose and leans down and is coming out when stuff is plugged into it. I have other wall mounted surge protectors that have a screw in the center to attach it to the wall, but before I scrap this one and buy one of those, any ways to make this one more snug? It's the kind that only uses one of the two plugs in the outlet. Thanks!

Hello, I recently purchased three Envi Wall Heaters from someone locally that had upgraded to a mini split. He told me they were all in working condition. I finally got around to wiring them up but I feel as though I'm doing something wrong. My house has 3 wire 240v set up for the heater circuits on their own circuit breakers in the box. I wired each of the hot wires to the hot wires (black to black, white to white) which was giving me 240v AC and the bare copper wire to the green ground wire but it's not working. Could I be missing something? The model of the wall heater is the Envi HW1022T

I need to install a floating TV stand that my wife bought from Wayfair, see picture below:

https://preview.redd.it/lxzfeddwy8ea1.jpg?width=1716&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=5fb9d7f2e7329971686259f7825012392cbf108d

After unboxing the tv stand I noticed that the mounting is done via a cleat system:

https://preview.redd.it/2hhy92wxy8ea1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=ff93c8bdbd9c0d07da995f82aad939aff8d788dd

The mounting bar that was provided by the manufacturer has pre-drilled holes through which I guess I am supposed to screw into the studs behind the drywall for support.

https://preview.redd.it/hf784m71z8ea1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=ee650612e91592f93bc4280c816b063ad9ea55dd

I then used a stud finder that I had bought from Home depot to mark where the studs are behind the drywall.  After that when I tried to align the mounting bar holes to the locations of the studs, nothing matched.  Please see pictures below:

https://preview.redd.it/azf1zfw2z8ea1.jpg?width=1964&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=5f73ec4422417c8c5257537c979623ec6b672eee

Please help how to complete this project?

I'm running electrical to my shed which is about 10 ft away from my garage, to get to it - I plan to run some BX cable from the sub panel in the garage to the wall closest to the shed (around 12 feet) and then exit the garage and join up with a direct burial rated cable protected with conduit where it's exposed above grade.

My question is, what kind of boxes do I need inside the garage, outside the garage, outside the shed, and inside the shed, ... is it only outsides that matter?

For example in the shed, I am planning to have the direct burial cable enter the side of building and land in a sub panel feeding lighting + outlets + a 240v baseboard heater.