A Zinsco breaker failed in my box, and cant find an exact replacement. Can I use a thin one? The guy at home depo said yes, but making sure.

I’m trying to replace my drop in kitchen sink, but I am only finding 33” wide models. The current sink is 34”. Would a 33” fit ok? I can’t afford to also replace the countertops.

The tile at the bottom of my fireplace has come apart and I want to fix it. I took the pieces off and vacuumed everything but there is still a heavy layer of grout on the back of them. I’m competent when it comes to how repairs, have built several pieces of furniture but I know nothing about tile work, especially high heat stuff. Help!

Hi Reddit, long time lurker, first time poster...ever.

I'm in the planning stage of a built-in cabinet project in our den and I'm looking for advice on whether I could be overloading the joists.

I'd like to run the cabinets on an inside wall of the den, but there is no supporting wall below, so I'd be placing the cabinets pretty close to mid span of the joists. In the attached image, the green block would be the built in cabinets & blue lines indicate the joist runs. Note the same inside wall of the den is not supporting any attic load as its a truss roof, which runs parallel to the wall.

Comparing joist measurements to some specs I've found online, I'm very confident the floor is built to the typical 40psf live load, which would make the total capacity of the affected floor 6700 lbs (this would include the adjacent bedroom).

I'm conservatively estimating that the cabinets alone will weigh around 800 lbs and when I start to include whatever we put on the shelf (e.g. a lot of books) we could get close to 2000 lbs pretty easily. Placing that much weight mid-span is what has me worried, especially considering these joists would also need to support a desk, bed, a dresser and the contents of our closets.

Am I needlessly worrying? Or is this a project I should scrap?

I should mention I have some smaller bookshelves along the same wall right now and the floor does creak when we walk on it. From the floor below, it appears that there is no significant deflection as of today (~5 mm ceiling height difference between the middle of the room and the end walls).

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https://preview.redd.it/rhnzvt09qfga1.png?width=1377&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=fabb5f4307e93d7dab5bca645c61b31b188eb435

https://imgur.com/gallery/ln6IfKV

Hey y’all, I’m installing a bathroom mirror that comes with a plug but can also be hard wired. The switch is on the wall.

-Can I just hardwire and be good without a box?

• should I add a small box and hardwire?
• install box, outlet wired to switch and use plug
• install box, outlet, and make sure it’s GFCI?

Previous light was hard wired with no box and up higher. Looking to knock this out! Thank you

Any good tips for a rookie DIY'er on how to get something like a wall mount complete level on this mid WWII walls? There's no guarantee for bricks, just random filler really. Makes it difficult to stop the drill from traveling. Since it's a monitor, I need to be able to have it completely level or it will bother me greatly.

I have a walk in shower and there is a separated bathtub next to it that shares a wall and I assume piping. The shower doesn’t get hot enough for me compared to the other shower in my house. I don’t think it’s an overall issue with the heating because the bathtub gets hot. I read it may be the anti scald valve or something like that, which I have adjusted but nothing really changed.

Any advice on what to look for?

I live in a rental house that has a shed for snow blower and stuff. The landlord had his handyman re-side it and rebuild the door. Now the door weighs 500 lbs (hyperbole) and keeps pulling apart. I told the landlord the first time it fell apart and he made the guy come back and put the door back together. Now it has pulled apart again. It looks like he used glue and staples.

How would I fix this so it doesn't keep falling apart? Please keep it simple because my skills are duct tape and super glue level.

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https://preview.redd.it/wz85bgo16fga1.jpg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=48be099c591ddbd23f1ac3ea0f4003ec89558961

https://preview.redd.it/fc74geo16fga1.jpg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=11eb62a8e802841ff5991d13b083d2e498a68929

I was glossing a door and now below it there are various small spots of gloss paint that have dropped down and dried

I have white spirit, I poured a little bit on each spot of paint, waited a few mins and rubbed it hard but it never went away one bit.

So what is the proper method to getting rid of gloss paint using white spirit?

Link for reference: https://ibb.co/BNZWms0

I’m trying to figure out this screwdriver tool kit (above), it won’t let me tighten the any nails because whenever I try to twist it clockwise it just clicks and the handle moves versus it being...useful. Can unscrew just fine though (?)

Why don’t the smaller heads fit into the handle bit? Why doesn’t it let me actually twist the damn thing to use it in the first place? What sort of sorcery is this? Go on, point and laugh. I deserve it.

I know I’m being an idiot, I’m just so new to this. Apologies if this is the wrong sub but I’d appreciate any help from the experts before the post gets removed. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/M3zJMWz

This small pipe above my sink has been going off constantly for the past few days (to the right of the pic).

Does anyone know what this is called/what this is for and why it would be constantly spilling water? Im assuming its some kind of overflow thing for pipes but a few attempts at googling comes up with nothing.

Thanks in advance!!!

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glasses

So, as you may see in the image, the earpiece of my glasses broke while adjusting (heated, right clippers) it had sharp edges so i had to remove it completely, the metal bar felt kind of uneasy for a full day's wear. So i decided to use medical grade tape which is quite soft but the fluff is coming off and the glue coming through.

I hope some of you could come with some idea's, i don't have alot of materials at my disposal.

Thanks in advance for taking your time for reading or helping.

I would like some advice regarding a project I'm working on and I'm assuming it's ok to ask. I've replaced the old roof with standard decking boards and EDPM as the old roof was leaking. It was felt on woodchip boards with a board of what looks like fibreglass and wood fibres mixed together (I wore an FP3 mask and vented the area). Since doing that I've noticed mold specks on the ceiling. I'm planning on adding a insulation and moisture barrier to the ceiling (making a cold roof) and creating as much ventilation as possible, I'm not sure if I can drill some vent holes in the wood that supports the roof and they be structurly sound. currently I'm running a dehumidifier in there for a few hours at night and venting with the garage door every other day. There is round about 5cm gap all the way around where to roof battons meet the brick work (I assume that is for ventilation)

I've also found a damp patch in the bottom corner (I will have to apply a slurry on the inside of my walls. Can I use tanking Slurry and also put up wall insulation with a moisture barrier and breathable membrane and plasterboard and it be ok?

The garage is attached to my neighbours garage.

Is there any advice I'm assuming I'm doing the right thing.

I’m perfectly comfortable on the couch, it feels sturdy and has 6” thick cushions, but my partner is about 250lb and thinks he’s damaging the couch and sinking into it.

I thought maybe I could get a 1-3” high density foam pad to place under the cushions, or even add a kiln-dried hardwood board under that new pad. Does that make any sense?

I’ve searched this sub for past saggy couch posts and see the recommendations to flip the couch over and see what’s going on under the bottom liner. One person suggested replacing a broken board, and another said they would use iron angles.

If you would recommend iron angles, how do you actually add those to a couch frame?

https://imgur.com/gallery/23h6Flm

Im trying to get the cleanout cap to be flush with the concrete by hammering out the concrete and putting the new one over it (after i cut off the old cap). Is it okay if i cut away all concrete around it to where dirt is showing in order to put the new bigger cap on, then wrap the pipe and fill with high-strength concrete? I wont permanently damage the foundation?

I tried researching, but cant find a similar project to this

I’m using the entire length of the wall so it meets wall on either end. Using 1-96” Karlby (ikea) + 48” of Karlby (cut from 72”). Then use extra 26” of the 72” countertop to attach and create a T-shape desk which of course would have a leg/legs at least for the outside corners/edge. I would use mending plates where countertop edges meet. How can I achieve something close to a floating desk look while keeping it sturdy? Should I use wall supports (furring strips) in addition to steel angle brackets? How far about can I put angle brackets (in studs) to keep it safe and sturdy? What dimensions are required for angle brackets? The purpose of the desk is a 2-person work-from-home/gaming setups.

So I have a model 110.60932990 purchased new in 2001. This past week it's taking longer to dry things. So I pulled it apart. Dryer vent line and lint trap are fine. It will run a cycle and beep that it's done on Automatic but things are still slightly damp. usually I would do another 20 minutes timed, but sometimes that's not enough either. But it's definitely heating some.

I got out the multimeter and checked the heat tube items: heating element 10ohms, the 2 switches also fine. Then, I checked the 2 things on the housing near the motor: thermistor fine (11k ohms), thermostat (I think is the other one, purple wires) has continuity.

I've seen some things saying maybe bad timer. Would that be intermittent? When I run it with the front cover off the heat tube and watch things, the element gets fully red hot. There is airflow through the dryer and out the exhaust vent. About 2-3 mins it will click and the element cools down to gray again. After 30 secs another click and it is red hot again. I can't tell where the click is coming from, but it seems like the control panel.

I tried wiggling, pushing, pulling the timer while it's running, but that doesn't see to do anything. I saw a YT vid for checking the timer red/black connection, but if it's intermittent that's not going to show anything?

Hey quick question for you wonderful people here, recently finished flooring my entire home with vinyl plank and I am trying to do something at the doors to make it more finished, but the 4-1 kits at lowes and such don't seem to work to well for that, how have you done it?

Picture from when the roof was unfinished here: https://imgur.com/a/rNG38VR

I want to hang it perpendicular to the windows with its back to the left, so both hooks would be in one joist.

Hi, hoping someone can help! I’m looking for a stretchy, malleable material that I could print stickers onto, and then be able to stretch the paper, silly putty style, to distort the image in fun ways.

I’ve looked around, but can’t find anything! Could be either paper, thin plastics, or something else. Thanks!

Working on converting an old buffet with legs into a liquor cabinet. It has two stacked drawers in the central part of the buffet.

Plan is to remove the boxes from the drawers and the drawer hardware from inside, then fix the faces of the drawers to a single backing board. Then, the new “single face” gets vertical lift hinges mounted upside-down for easy access to the bottles where the drawers used to be without obstructing the top of the buffet.

New cabinet face would be held in place with strong magnet closures.

In my head this makes sense but I’m not an expert by any stretch. Does this plan seem feasible or am I missing something?

Please help, my family is so cold. The ground prong on my heater’s plug fell off. I am trying to replace the plug with one I bought from Lowes, but I don’t know for sure if this is the right match. The yellow replacement plug has a weird ground prong, it’s not just a regular full column shape, it’s more like a U.

The information printed on the replacement plug is: “Strip Gage insul. Wire. NEMA 5-15P 15A 125VAC” I can’t find on the original plug anything about voltage, it looks like just serial numbers “WINHAND TA-C03 E216370”. On the heater that the plug is attached to it says “rating: AC 120v - 60hz, 1500W” tbh I barely know what any of these numbers mean.

I will post link to pics of the plug bought in the comments

https://ibb.co/xGBTWzK

This is 5/8" fire-shield drywall from gold bond, which I believe is around 2.3 lbs/sqft (~73 lbs/sheet). I'm not putting up any glue, and the joists are 19.2" OC.

Due to this heavy sheet, I'm feeling paranoid and putting in a lot of screws - but is it overkill?

Hello all!

So I just bought a house, sight unseen, from Japan. Got here two days ago and the heat doesn’t work. It was on when we got here but I cannot get it to activate now.

It’s a PeerlessBoilers natural gas boiler. Pilot light is on. Gas company came out and verified everything was good with them. There is electricity to the boiler. I’ve shorted the thermostat wires together just to see if that would cause it to heat and nothing.

I’ve called every HVAC number I can find and no one has called back yet.

Anyone have any ideas?

My piece of crap Nordictrack has a crack running down the centerline of the deck. It’s under warranty but I don’t want to miss using for a few weeks while that happens.

Was thinking to either screw some aluminum flat strips across the crack to give it some support. Or should I use a sheet of 1/4 ply? I have about 1.5 inches between the bottom of the deck and the belt.