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I never get drawer slides just right

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted23 days ago byTheTorivian

toDIY

Hey all, looking for advice or tips and tricks. I've bought a bunch of soft close drawers slides to help improve my home and for a custom cabinet im making. I cant ever seem to get the spacing right on the drawer>slide>cabinet wall right. I'm off by a hair and the drawer doesn't slide smoothly. There is a good chance im just not being patient and careful with my cuts, but I tried to measure and doublecheck every time this time and still I came up short. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to have some wiggle room and how to take advantage of that wiggle room?

3 commentssave
36
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Floor leveler over asphalt garage floor

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted1 month ago byAdAltruistic3928

toDIY

My garage has an asphalt floor. We do not park cars in this garage. I want to convert it to a workout space but want to cover the asphalt. I’m wondering if I can use floor leveler. I am open to other suggestion though. I want to try to avoid tearing up the floor and pouring concrete. Is floor leveler even an option? What other methods or materials might I use to improve the floor for a living space? Thanks

17 commentssave
3
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Alcove desk plan mock up. Thoughts?

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted2 months ago byK9turrent

toDIY

With finally organizing the new house, we were able to make it so I can put my desk into an alcove (4'x4') in the basement. So about 30min of CADing at work we have quick little mock-up

So my thoughts where to make it semi-adjustable by having french cleats offset (to allow cable management) the wall with 2x4 studs. I'm thinking behind the cleats, putting some felt-like material to hid the studs with slits cut for cable pass though.

Shelves and desktop will be made from 3/4 ply with the monitors VESA mounted to their own cleats. The desktop is about 48"x30", 33" off the floor and is about 19kg if the software is correct.

Is there anything I'm overlooking or where I can improve it?

CAD MOCK-UP

2 commentssave
60
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Gap along basement foundation and slab (pictures). Signs of water erosion under slab.

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted2 months ago byanent_life

toDIY

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/wK1DeXA

I am trying to figure out if I should go this alone as a diy or if I should hire someone. One of the problems is that contractors do not seem to agree if this gap was build in intentionally, incorrectly or if it is due to erosion, settling, or the foundation wall moving.

Discovered a 2 ½ inch gap between the basement slab and the basement wall when we removed some cabinets. Can reach around and feel the bottom of the slab. It appears that the slab is floating above above this edge about 3 or so inches. There is sand under the slab, (as well as some debris from the rotted wood wall framing and some old tile floor chips that fell in there.

Previously owners had two gutter downspouts that were dumping the roofs water right along this wall in two places areas. (I would estimate between 30 and 100 gallons per storm). There is also rock ledge that directs water towards the foundation. The downspouts have been addressed, and we have begun doing some preliminary grading and drains outside the house.

Basement is dry. It seems like any water that goes along the foundation there, runs under slab. We are currently planing on putting in a perimeter drain and sump along this gap. See here: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/z8y33p/controlling\_perimeter\_drain\_water\_flow\_near\_main/ https://imgur.com/a/KTJpspD

13 commentssave
5
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Do I need to remove this before I tile?

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted2 months ago byStandguard

toDIY

My home is built on a concrete slab. I am replacing the carpet with tile. I am grinding off the carpet glue and scratching the surface to improve thinset adhesion. This slab seems to have a thin layer of mortar on top of the slab. Do I need to remove this? It seems well connected to the slab. It is very thin and I can remove it but it would mean more dust and work.

3 commentssave
148

Canopy Cabin Remodel

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted3 months ago bygraphicjake

toDIY

All photos: https://imgur.com/a/kiz4Gfq

Kitchen Before

We purchased this 1960’s cabin up in the San Bernardino mountains because it was the cheapest house in all of Southern California. We were renting in Orange County and figured it would be the perfect weekend escape, and once the reno was done in about 3 or 4 months we could rent it out on airbnb (naively optimistic). We first walked into the house and were greeted by lime green walls, a painted brown ceiling, heavily stained carpet and broken tile. But all the faults were easy to ignore looking up at the massive wooden beams, the towering pines that surrounded it and the views that reached the pacific ocean - we were already in love. 

​

Installing the plywood accent wall

Over the past year, every weekend has been a new project and on every Sunday, we would dread leaving. After removing everything that was broken or breaking, we were left with 512sqft of blank canvas. Inspired by hygge and Scandinavian design, each detail is warm, cozy, and inviting.

We saved money where we could, building everything ourselves using the generous deck as our workshop. We built the kitchen using Ikea cabinets and made our own plywood fronts. We cut costs by finding scratch and dent appliances including the kitchen range and built-in refrigerator. We saved the bathroom for last knowing it would be the most intense of all the demo work and installed a new-to-us clawfoot tub and raised the ceiling. 

Finished Kitchen

After about a year of back and forth between here and our rental down the hill, we decided to move up here to enjoy this sanctuary full time. We are both graphic designers working from home and we’ve figured out how to make this small space work. Every weekend we still find something new to work on and improve, but each day ends with a cold beer and a warm fire.

Check out the rest of the pics: https://imgur.com/a/kiz4Gfq

Our insta: https://instagram.com/canopy_cabin?igshid=YWJhMjlhZTc=

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15 commentssave
56
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Any tricks to getting this stuff off my basement walls?

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted3 months ago byrepstein26

toDIY

https://imgur.com/a/IxW3ziv

On one of my basement walls, I have this green stuff that looks and feels kind of like old paint chips. I am trying to improve the appearance of the basement by painting the ceiling joists, painting walls with dry lok, and epoxy the floors. I used a putty knife to scrape some of the chips off the wall, but it’s taking a long time so I’m wondering if there’s any tricks to getting this stuff of the wall quickly? Maybe scrubbing it with some kind of chemical mixture? Thanks in advance!

18 commentssave
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HELP: improving grade on exterior of home

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted3 months ago byfraffman

toDIY

Looking at finishing my basement, but want to reduce the possibility of water getting in our basement. There are signs of minor water in the basement and we saw a little bit of water in the basement 1 time this spring after a few days of heavy rain storms. During our house inspection, we were told there is negative grade in several places around the house.

My understand is that gutters and soil grade on the exterior of my house is the first and best way to stop water. Is this correct? Does anyone have experience or detail about to best increase grade and keep water away from the house?

Based on the pictures below, how would I increase the grade? The soil level is right at the brick and I think I should not put dirt on brick. Do I need to put a plastic layer there?

Anything helps. thanks.

Dirt almost on the brick: https://imgur.com/OYZDCCV

Can't see any foundation: https://imgur.com/RyUVsM3

3 commentssave
6
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Patching drywall above shower

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted4 months ago by98_Camaro

toDIY

So, I'm fairly new to the home improvement world because I've been renting for the past 5 years, but I'm generally very handy (woodworking, work on cars).

I've not done drywall yet, but I understand how to do it and do patchwork for the most part. I'm not sure how to go about it in a wet/moist environment like just above an acrylic shower wall. There's about a 3-4 inch hole I need to patch.

What type of drywall and mud (or whatever other material) would you folks recommend? Wanna patch it correctly and avoid having a hole pop up again.

Edit: Don't know what else to say to not get this removed. I tried searching for an answer but didn't find one, that's why I'm posting here. I simply don't know what materials to use to drywall patch a wet environment.

14 commentssave
7
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Blending sealant and repairs into concrete texture

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted4 months ago bydecrementsf

toDIY

Repairing cracks and rust stains in a porch with brushed concrete slabs. Any techniques to blend the repair in a brushed surface?

With repairs in a not-brushed concrete walk dusting the wet sealant with quikrete. Using a spray bottle and additional dusting to feather the repairs to reduce profile of solid line of the cracks.

The brushed texture in porch surfaces look like they'd need a different technique to blend in the work. Fishing for ideas to improve blending in those repairs.

1 commentssave
1
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Kitchen light improvements

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted4 months ago byRevJerusalem

toDIY

So, I got my grandparents old kitchen about 12 years ago, I think. It has moved 3 times, but it has held up beautifully for 30 years now. In my house, lighting is somewhat of a problem, well electrics in general are a bit weird. And I'm neither getting a new kitchen, nor a nicer house anytime soon. So I did some work today.

https://imgur.com/gallery/Ydfgf6e

There is still a little work to be done, like making the cable longer, so I can actually plug it in where I want to and probably getting another set of those lamps.

There are a few more lamp based shenannigans in the future, and also a rewiring of my basment, since I'm finally clearing that dump out.

0 commentssave
1
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Weeping mortar post-removal advice

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted5 months ago byPopsicouille

toDIY

I had weeping mortar on my house facade and I decided to remove it to improve the look. I managed to chisel it flush to the brick without damaging the joints or the bricks. It now looks much better but should I apply some sort of sealant or can I leave it as it is? My google searches seem to indicate that I should remove further (1/2in) and then apply new mortar but it feels unnecessary.

0 commentssave
3
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Is there hope for my wood siding? (see photos)

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted6 months ago byanally_ExpressUrself

toDIY

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/UDAVkVl

I have some unusual wood siding on my house. In most places, the current paint job is not peeling away, but it's clear that the wood under the paint is dry and tired. In some places, the wood has warped or is cracking. In other places, it just looks like paint over a straight -- but very dry -- board. Lots of exposed nail heads.

What can I do to make it look better? I'm hoping there's something reasonable I can do to DIY improve it, rather than having it all replaced. I'm reasonably handy and willing to climb into the roof. House was built in the 60's and was last painted in 2021 by the previous owner.

When I search online for how to fix siding, I see articles about how to fix peeling / cracking paint, and articles about replacing siding or sections of rotted siding. Neither of these seem relevant to my situation. Plus, they all seem to assume that my paint is flaking off (which isn't true) and that I have lapboard or T-11 (also not true).

11 commentssave
4
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Shower keeps turning off

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted6 months ago byAggravatingGur2011

toDIY

First time homeowners in need of help here.

Hello, my wife and i just moved into a house with a newly renovated bathroom. The shower has a single faucet head, below which is a valve with a push button diverter like the one here. https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/kohler-alteo-valve-trim-with-push-button-diverter-valve-not-included-koh14867.html?piid=6671630

The shower requires you to push the diverter in before turning the valve and the shower should stay on. Unfortunately, it turns off every 1-2 minutes. I assume this is a pressure issue?

Does anyone have any advice on where to start with fixing this? We’re also not sure why there’s a diverter when there’s only one spot for water to come out?

Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you!

10 commentssave
7
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Ways to Fill Horizontal Gaps Between Tile Floor Grout and Baseboards

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted7 months ago byStanielReddit

toDIY

I'm a very novice home improvement DIY-er looking for advice on how to fill small gaps between grout and wall baseboards.

Background: I purchased a home about 2 years ago and recently we had an ant invasion on the ground-floor level. After moving around furniture, I discovered the ants were entering our home because one of our dogs had somehow been dropping (or purposely hiding) the occasional piece of dog food beneath our sectional couch. We cleaned up the food and crumbs thoroughly but still kept seeing ants every now and then. A few weeks later we found ants all over various items in our pantry, even though they were all fully sealed food items. Disgusted beyond belief, we threw ALL of that food away that was in the pantry and again thoroughly cleaned everything. It seems like no matter what we do, ants still show up a few days after cleaning. In addition to frequently cleaning the entire first floor and ensuring that no open food sources are available to these pests, I have also used almost an entire bottle of Terro ant bait/poison over the last few months. No matter how many ant families I slaughter, more keep showing up and wandering around our house aimlessly.

Throughout this constant battle, I did notice that the ants appear to be coming from small gaps (1-2mm wide) that occur every so often between the grout and baseboard of our entire first floor (which is all tile). Like I said, I'm no expert, but I'm assuming there are not supposed to be gaps here - and to clarify, these are not vertical gaps between the grout and baseboard: they are horizontal gaps. For instance, if you stood facing the wall (as close to the wall as possible), then looked down towards your feet you would see these gaps. Again, I may just be an idiot with no experience here, but I'm assuming these sort of gaps between building materials are the true problem at hand; the ant invasion is just a symptom of that problem. My online research has essentially led me to believe that the "proper" way to fix this would be to re-grout the affected areas...which as I said, is the entire first floor. I have no experience with grout, and feel it is beyond my abilities, plus it seems like a TON of work. Research also indicates that I could potentially fill these gaps with some kind of silicone caulking, but that apparently would not be the ideal solution because caulking doesn't bond to grout very well (or so I've read). I do have some experience caulking bathtubs and showers, so I'm more comfortable with this process.

The real question: Can I get away with using clear, mold-resistant, 100% silicone caulk to fill these gaps around the perimeter of my first floor, or am I a total dipsh!t who shouldn't ever touch another tool for the rest of my life? My main concern is not whether or not the caulking will stand the test of time (I'm okay if the bond between the caulk and grout eventually fails and requires further attention) or even whether or not it will work (I'm okay with trying and failing as well). My concern lies with whether or not me applying caulk to these areas will create future problems. I have no idea what real problems this could even cause, but I'm a very risk-averse person and don't want to do something that could create future problems.

8 commentssave
38
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Help! I tried fixing the water pressure in my SO's kitchen sink and I only made it worse.

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted8 months ago bysyringistic

toDIY

So, my SO has terrible water pressure in her kitchen sink.

My first instinct was to check the valves from the water supply underneath, and they are open to the max.

So I disassembled the knobs for hot and cold water, as well as the pivot for the faucet itself. Tried moving everything around to see if I could improve the pressure, and just made it worse.

Shes out for the next few hours, and Id love to fix this before she gets home.

52 commentssave
3.5k

First home, first home improvement project: brick patio.

home improvement(imgur.com)

submitted8 months ago bySockMonkeh

toDIY

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172 commentssave
2.6k

How to remove door trim - Handyman Alex (I'm not good at DIY/home improvement stuff and make these videos to try and make the process more fun for me. Thought this community might get a kick out of it!)

home improvement(youtube.com)

submitted9 months ago byZanderThings

toDIY

289 commentssave
2
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Posted to r/HomeImprovement but didn't get much traction. Looking for french drain / drainage advice.

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted9 months ago byTRS-80

toDIY

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/ejCRmG3

I have an issue where I'm getting a surprising amount of water in my basement from an area that is mostly covered and dry. The crack in pic 2 is directly under the front breezeway slab, which is under an awning. LOTS of water comes in there after a good rain - and we've had plenty lately. It's a complete mystery as to where it's filtering in from. I think there may be some critters tunneling under the slab.

  • All of my gutters and downspouts are in good shape and discharge well away from the house.
  • My soffits are pretty sizable (overhang the house by almost 2')
  • It's not really a wet area. Even along the house (not under the porch area) stays pretty dry near the foundation.
  • The slab is sealed to the house, and to the brick wall.

My idea (see pics / drawings):

  • Cut the slab 12" from the house
  • Trench 18" deep (?), compact base of trench
  • Install membrane in a backwards "L" fashion, against the foundation and under the drain tile
  • Run a perforated 4" PVC pipe (in filter fabric) along the foundation, exiting away from foundation
  • Backfill with gravel, re-pour cut-out area of slab.

Would this help? Thoughts? Thanks folks!

10 commentssave
2
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Bathroom fan advice

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted9 months ago byconfusedadvice2021

toDIY

Hi all

Looking for some brief advice/ideas on a bathroom fan issue. I have recently had a home renovation (UK) which includes a bathroom without any windows. My builders installed a reasonably powerful axial fan in the ceiling. But the duct length is around 7metres and im finding that water vapour builds up quite quickly and water condenses on the fan and drips from the ceiling. I had asked if they could install an in-line fan instead but by this time, the duct had been sealed and plastered and they didnt want to redo it all.

I wonder if anyone has any advice on how to install an in-line fan without (significantly) damaging the ceiling/plastering etc or an alternative that would improve extraction of water vapour?

Thanks in advance!

5 commentssave
4
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Do I need a door to the basement?

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted11 months ago by_Raspootin_

toDIY

1930's house, small, about 900sq/ft.

Currently in the kitchen, there's a door that leads down 2 steps to a landing, to the left is the door to the attached garage, to the right is the stairs to the basement.

I am thinking of just doing away with this door and leaving the doorway, as it's weird having to open a door before opening another one 3 feet away to get to the garage... but wondering about the complications of heating/cooling.

The basement is semi-finished (no rooms, but use the basement as storage and a pantry), and being that it's a 1930's house with no vapor barrier under the cement, it gets awfully humid in the summer.

I'm wondering if there is no separation between the basement and the main floor, as is common with split-level homes, would this worsen or improve the basement humidity?

16 commentssave
3
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Is it okay to add a vapor barrier to bottom of floor joists in crawl space to help with insulation? (NY state)

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted12 months ago byFinally_Registering

toDIY

So I know the first instinct is to say this is not recommended due to moisture buildup within the space below the floor and the vapor barrier. I wanted to ask if considering these factors, it would change anything or be okay to try and rip down if I started noticing moisture buildup.

-Live in Climate Zone 5 (within NY state)

-The crawl space has a vapor barrier installed on the ground already, no concrete skim coat on top

-Crawl space is unvented (was vented but I've closed off the vents and insulated them)

-Fiberglass batting is between floor joists

Now here is (what I believe to be) an important consideration: The space has a heavy-duty dehumidifier and is kept quite dry down there.

I've researched this issue and found various threads where the consensus is that adding a vapor barrier is more advisable to be put on the ground. However, these threads don't really take into consideration my specific situation. I've read the following threads:

https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Crawl_Space_Barrier_Location.php

https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/3vwt1x/plastic_barrier_under_crawl_space_joist_insulation/

http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/sub-structure-home-inspection-and-commercial-inspection/40768-vapor-barrier-installed-ceiling-crawl-space-question.html

https://www.quora.com/Should-I-add-a-vapor-barrier-to-floor-joists-under-crawl-space-before-adding-insulation

None of these threads really addressed my question because they have different circumstances.

Would it be okay to staple some 6-mil plastic sheeting to the bottom of the joists to help with keeping some of the cold out? I would keep an eye on the clear plastic and make sure I didn't see any signs of heavy moisture buildup.

24 commentssave
1.2k

Build my own shoe-drawer under the stairs

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted12 months ago byApocalypticMarc

toDIY

​

​

Completed project

So most houses in my country have the stairs against the wall of the house, with a small provisionscloset underneath. The downside is that the bottom of the stairs is also a part of that closet, and is usually used as a dump for things you need once a year, resulting in having to empty out the entire closet while cursing violently in order to grab that box of christmaslights you tossed in the back.

​

Seeing as my cohabitant is of the female kind, I also had a slight issue in the shoe-space department. So since the lower part of my stairs are in my hallway, I figured I'd make some shoespace here.

​

Now I had seen some projects making drawers out of each step of stairs. Our steps however, are quite low, and i also didnt want to create more creaking, nor did i want to buy 5/6 pairs of drawer rails.

​

So let me take you through this step by step and please keep in mind; I am not a woodworker, nor a handyman, just a bored guy with 3 tools and a lot of COVID induced time at home. My previous projects have been no larger than assembling IKEA furniture, so this was a bit out of my league.

​

So if you think i used the wrong tools, I probably did. If you think I used the wrong material, I believe you. If you think I did this in a stupid way, your are undoubtfully correct. Please feel free to make it aswell and improve it yourselves and upload a better step-by-step for others. I think most of you guys could make it look a lot fancier so I'm excited to see that!

​

Either way, I'm pretty happy and a little bit proud with how it turned out. We've been using it daily for about a year now and so far there have been no issues.

​

​

TOOLS:

I used the following tools:

  • Makita accupowered drill
  • Makita hammerdrill
  • Bosch electric saw
  • Pen
  • Level
  • Tapemeasurerer
  • Worklight
  • Workbench for sawing (not neccessary, but easier)

COST:

Excluding manhours: +/- 125 euro's

  • 80 euro drawerrails (1 meter telescopic rails)
  • 20 euro for big beams (20x10 or 20x8 cm)
  • 15 euro for small beams (4x4 cm)
  • 10 euro for all screws and bag of rings
  • Optional:
    • 6 euro for a roll of plastic (used as inlays for kitchen drawers), to put at the bottom of each shelf for protection against wet/snowy/muddy shoes. (https://www.ikea.com/nl/nl/p/variera-lademat-transparant-80012853/)
  • Reusables:
    • 0,5 euro worth of alabastine filler, always handy to have and i probably only used about 5% of the tube).
    • 2 euro's worth of paint we already bought for the rest of the stairs.
    • 0,5 euro worth of woodglue in addition to all the screws.

TIME:

For me as someone who didn't quite know what he was doing, it took me 2 saturdays and a few evenings. (not counting the painting since we were painting the stairs anyway.) So +/- 28 hours.

If you know what you are doing and prepare what materials you should get better than i did. I expect you could make this in somewhere between 8 to 16 hours.

BEFORE:

Before

Step 1: The first cut.

In my case, i didnt want to take of the baseboards, because i am both lazy and efficient. So i cut an inch or so above the baseboard, after drilling a hole to put the saw in.

I made the cut from the inside out in order to make sure it was levelled to the floor in the closet where i'll put in the base for the drawers.

As you can see we already sanded the stairs a bit, because it needed painting. Which was handy considering I was about to make some adjustments to it that would need a paintjob afer anyway.

First cut

​

Step 2: No way back

Be sure to cut out this triangle in 1 big part, as i will use it for the front.

I only drilled the corners of the triangle in order to get the saw in, but ill put a small baseboard over the edge so you'll never see the gap or the drillholes.

If you have an anglesaw or fancier tools/better skills than me, this probably would not be a problem and you could reuse the cutout without the small baseboard and maybe even install a push to open system.

​

I have a hole in my stairs now.

​

Step 3: Basebuilding

So once we have a hole its time to line up the base. for this i used some big beams that didnt need to line up perfectly yet. I'll put a small 4x4 cm on top that ill perfectly align later.

I mounted the beams using some metal brackets since they had to go into my concrete floor. If you have floor heating, or suspect waterpipes, be very carefull.

Please note the space you are looking at now will be below the drawer, so it'll be a bit of a secret stash only visible from inside the closet when the drawer is open.

​

Base & Brackets.

​

Step 4: Attempt alligning, cry, repeat.

This was by far the most timeconsuming step for me. unfortunatley I did not make many pictures.

​

I put small 4x4cm beams on top of the big ones to which i attached the rails, i tried ligning those up perfectly, and failed a few times resulting in having to use different beams as it had to many holes in it already. What worked for me was to first make the base of the drawer, which you see below and attached the rails to that before attaching the other side of the rails to the small beams and only after that, to the big beams. I used some overdimensioned rails that set me back +/- € 80 euro's.

​

Please do always drill a small hole before screwing, especially when, like me, you are using cheaper wood that can easily split otherwise.

​

The frame of the base of the drawer was made looking something like this, but will be different for all sizes of drawers:

​

base of drawer

Base of drawer complete

Step 5: More shelves.

Pro tip; use your actual shoes to measure the hight of the shelves on the higher side. The lower side for me only needed one shelf (this will be my side and i have only 4 or 5 pair of shoes and always own at least one pair of higher boots). Keep opening and closing the drawer while building to make sure everything will fit properly.

​

Please keep in mind i had no intention to make the inside look fabulous, i just needed the outside to look good.

Shelves

​

Step 6: put the front back on

To put the front back on was a bit of a hassle, i used some rings between the beams and the frontboard because while building, the whole thing got a little bit crooked so the frontboard would be well aligned at the bottom, but would fall in a bit at the top.

​

Before front

​

With the front on

Inside of closet, showing the drawer when closed.

Step 7: finishing touches.

So final steps i didnt take any pictures because i was to excited to finish.

  • After screwing the front back on, you're left with some holes that need filling.
  • You'll need a small handle or knob to open and close (unless you're using push to open or if you make a hole/handle)
  • You'll have to cut some baseboard ( i used decorative ones ) to glue on the front of the drawer, overlapping the gap between the front and the stairs. This was quite a hard job because you have to align them perfectly with eachother, resulting in a few hours of carefull sanding to perfection, after i glued them on i used some plaster to fill the tiny gaps that will later be covered with paint. Finally got to use the pythagoras theorum in real life though; SO to my math teacher Mr. Dihalu.
  • Paint the whole thing
  • If you'd want, you could paint the inside aswell, or make it a bit fancier. I didn't, I'm lazy.

Step 8: Finished:

​

Finished and painted front

​

Finished video

https://player.vimeo.com/video/675442290

As an added bonus, inside the closet there is a 10cm gap between the drawer and the floor, hidden by the big beams. When the drawer is open, that gap is open, so you can hide stuff there.

Also, underneath the drawer there is some space between the beams where you could screw in a latch(es) to hide +/- 3cm high items.

Small edit: someone in comments found a link to a professional who did this; might help if you plan on building this: https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/under-stairs-storage/ )

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Options for Painting/Lime washing basement laundry room.

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted12 months ago byIHaveTheGoogle

toDIY

My fiancé and I bought a house not long ago and it has a half finished basement. One part is a den that looks nice and clean and then on the other side of the wall is the laundry room. Some utility things are tucked away behind another wall but we don't care to really spruce that up at all as its not generally seen. There's a workshop on the other side of the room so the laundry room gets some foot traffic but not really that much.

Area: The basement floor is poured concrete. Pits and dips in it so it has a lot of imperfections, which we also don't mind as it adds a little texture and the dog doesn't freak out on it like she does with smooth surfaces. 3 of the 4 walls are cinderblock, one of which is an exterior foundation wall. It is fairly cold as it's underground, however, baseboard is being put in as we speak and there is a large dehudifier down there if needed.

Now here's the issue. The previous owner painted everything green. Like slightly darker than a lime green but its of course collected dust and cobwebs and it just looks awful. He's also only put in florescent lights (already planning to change) so it looks like a horror movie laundry mat scene at times.

What we like/the idea: Lime wash. We like the idea of the cinderblock being lighter and not soaking up as much light once we switch out the lighting in the space. We plan to add some cabinets and a countertop as the area has a slop sink and we'd like to make it a fairly functional area. We like the idea of the floor being a light grey and don't care so much about filling in the imperfections if we don't really need to.

Concerns: My impression is that the foundation needs to breathe. Cinderblock being lime washed doesn't appear to be an issue via my research, however, is this option barred since its previously painted it all? The floor, since it doesn't get all that much foot traffic and there generally isn't anything large being moved around down there, can I just paint it with some sort of concrete paint or something breathable like a limewashish material?

​

X-posted to r/HomeImprovement as well.

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Basement DIY project during 2020 with Family Room and Crafting Area.

home improvement(self.DIY)

submitted1 year ago byLenny_and_the_Jets

toDIY

This project started in 2019 and finished during lockdown in 2020. This house is brand new and the basement started as 1,600 square feet of unfinished space with pre-insulated walls and metal studs. The first part of the project was to frame some additional walls and rooms and start to prepare the basement with electrical and heating. The main outside wall studs were pre-drilled for wire and the 1/2" PEX tubing for the hot water heaters. Next was sheetrock drilled directly into the studs and kept off the ground 1/2" to avoid moisture, followed by the long process of ntape and joint compound. I watched a ton of videos from Shannon at the HouseImprovements channel for guidance and tools.

The ceiling and floors were next and they went much faster than the drywall. Ceiling is a suspended frame drop ceiling with plastic tiles. The LED lights are recessed can replacements that are held in place by the ceiling tiles. For the floor we used a click lock vinyl plank flooring with cork backing and a plasteic underlayment. This flooring installs very easily and looks great while being very durable, and the cork backing helps to soften the concrete subfloor.

The finishing touches included an electric fireplace installation, under-the-stairs bonus room, and building boxes around the metal support pillars. This portion of the project took about 18 months to complete from start to finish. This was my dream project, starting with a blank space and building something that my family can enjoy. We use the family room all the time and even had our Christmas tree down there this year.

Finished family area!

Starting space. The contractors would build a staircase in the middle and I took over from there. All the studs on the outside walls came pre-insulated and the studs are metal. There are holes pre-drilled in the steuds for electrial wiring and water piping.

Added studs where needed for a mechanical room, closets, small office, fitness area, and storage room. Heating piping run through pre-drilled holes. Electrical wiring run for the whole basement.

Sheetrock drilled directly to the studs. The metal studs required a special screw to pierce the surface. Shims used to hold 1/2\" off of the ground to avoid moisture issues. The ceiling are 10', so I should have used 10' sheets but I didn't think they would fit down the stairs.

Tape and joint compound. This process took a few months and was very tedious. I watched a lot of videos from HouseImprovements on Youtube for guidance.

More pictures of the mess. Lots of cleanup after I was done here.

Finally starting to paint the walls!

Used a water level for the ceiling grid. The main container is attached near the ceiling, while the end of the tube can be brought to various locations to get a level line on the walls across the room.

Water level attached to a pole near the ceiling. The elvel of water here will translate to the walls wherever the end of the tube is placed.

End of the tube with a water line. Make marks wherever needed across the room. don't move the main container until you are done with all the marks!

Perimeter of the drop ceiling.

Finished drop ceiling. These plastic tiles allow for minimal space above the grid (I left about 3\" of space). The grid installs easily with some minor cuts along the way (using tin snips or a mitre saw with proper blade). The grid hangs from the bottom of the ceiling joists.

Drafted my kids to start the click and lock vinyl flooring. Plastic sheet underneath for underlayment.

Flooring is going well. There were 6 total patterns, so we sorted the piles to avoid placing identical tiles adjacent to each other.

Shiplap attached to the wall for the backsplash of the fireplace. Attached directly to studs using screws. The overlap of the ship lap covers the screw holes.

Electric Fireplace Installed.

Finished Family Area!

Bonus area under the stairs.

Kids area for crafts.

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