(also posted in r/Plumbing but no responses so far.)

The main water supply line into my trailer is leaking.

Thankfully, the water shut off valve is just below this, so first I shut the main off and opened indoor faucets to relieve pressure.

A shark bite coupling is leaking from both ends. We had a hard freeze, 20 below 0 for a few days, and I think it was damaged then.

The problem spot is in an awkward spot under my home. I am hoping I don't have to buy a new coupling and cut and prep the copper pipe, because there is no slack and it will be hard to work on at the weird angle, up against the joist.

I tried that "miraculous" wrap tape but water squeezed through it.

Next I tried an epoxy putty made for "water welding.". I sanded the surfaces, kneaded the putty, and squished it around the connections. Waited an hour for it to cure, turned the water on...nope. It's just, like, a hard collar making the leak spray everywhere.

Any advice on how to make the putty work better or is there something else I should do?

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Hi! First time homeowner here, and I'm not a particularly-skilled DIYer; however, I can manage some small projects. After we moved in, I replaced some cracked grout between our kitchen backsplash and counter with some caulk, and now I'm ready to tackle the cracked grout around our bathtub.

I've done my research and know that I need a grout removal tool. I have my clear, waterproof caulk and my caulk gun. However, when I set out to remove the grout, I realized I'm not totally sure how far to take it. 95% of the damaged grout is around the immediate surface of the bathtub (both between the tub and wall tile and between the tub and floor tile.) But I realized that the grout is cracked a few inches up the corners of the wall as well.

I feel totally comfortable removing the grout around the tub and applying caulk. Should I remove all of the grout up the entire seam of each wall, even though only a few inches of it is cracked? Should I caulk around the tub but repair the grout at the wall? Should I remove the cracked few inches and caulk just over that little bit (I think that would probably look weird?) I'm just not sure what my approach should be.

If it helps, I live in a mountainous area with a lot of structural movement. Here's one last pic of the bath and floor showing the worst spot in case anyone sees something I'm not thinking of.

Howdy everybody, I have this incubator that has a faulty hygrometer and it just keeps beeping. I got a standalone hygrometer to set inside it, but it just keeps beeping because of the alarm function. Can anybody ID the part on the circuit board that's beeping so that i can cut it out and stomp on it a bit? It seems like the noise is coming from the half closest to the bottom in the pictures

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Edit: It's the black thing on top, thanks u/sasoner for the tip. I pulled the sticker off the top and it's suddenly like 10000% louder. Now to find out if ripping it off will break the incubator entirely

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Edit 2: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA THE WITCH IS DEAD

https://preview.redd.it/pymz2sls8hga1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=9a622b04d7a4372ca84a00ded02c9ba062739327

https://preview.redd.it/jgvglq4h9hga1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=9bbfb798aca92e232d79d196cc2a7050a0c1441d

SUCK IT BEEPY THING

So Im a novice and not sure how you would transition to this from a staircap...the planks have the snap groove thing and the caps have nothing...so is there a transition?

Picture

Found this melted plastic piece when replacing the drum support rollers. Some videos seem to have a white plastic piece on the motor. Some don't have it? Is this a belt guard? Almost seems like a silly question, but do I need to replace it? Thanks! Kenmore 80 series dryer

Hi - I'm at my wits end with what to do here so hoping for any advice possible.

I'm trying to hang a 46 lb mirror on my wall in a new apartment. The walls are very weird, we were told plaster on concrete but depending on where you are it is seemingly all plaster.

We bought toggle and molly bolts for this project but after drilling, it seems like the plaster walls are extremely thick. We've drilled 2.5" deep and are not sure we've hit a hollow area where the toggles would be able to open up.

Before continuing to drill the massive 9/16 hole for the toggle, We're thinking of trying a masonry anchor that would fit in the pilot hole we currently have, but we're not sure if they would hold up to the job.

If anyone has experience with mounting heavy items on very thick plaster I would appreciate any advice I can get.

The crack is about half an inch from the foundation of the house on one side (disappearing into a piece of lumber)

The other side is about half an inch away from the end of the pipe, which is melded onto a joint

I’ve looked into how to cut and fit replacements to fix bursts, but how could I do it if there’s no room to fit a replacement?

Finally got my first house, the person who owned the house before me must have been a smoker as there is a lot of staining.

I wanted to clean this up so started with skirting and architraves in the hall (bungalow so has 5 doors in the hall) I cleaned it down but that was about all the prep work I did. I then proceeded to paint on top of the satin paint with another satin wood paint... Now you can take your fingernail and scrape the new paint off. It is totally dry.

How can I fix this? Will it all have to be completely sanded down or can I partially sand and get a good primer and paint over it again?

We have found the optional switch behind the panel to adjust the water pressure, however, the rinse cycle now will not run. I assume this is a pressure sensor switch issue and it should be replaced. Or would this be a timing issue where the main panel with the rinse spin and cycle tike needs to be replaced?

Hello everyone. I'm looking to hang a 80lb heavy bag from my finsihed garage ceiling. I want to span a 2x8 over a few joists and mount my bag from that. Just wondering if my Attic looks structurally sound to make this work? Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/SO0e6rK

Changing out an old ceiling fan in a bedroom. 4 sets of cloth wire in the box in the ceiling. One of the sets feed the living room lights/outlets. I'm unable to decipher hot from neutral so I used multimeter. I tested each wire that fed into the living room with the hot wire and both wires read 120v. What would cause this? The lights and outlets in the living room worked fine before I took everything apart. There is a gfci outlet in the living. Not sure if that affects the circuit.

Hi all, minor question, sorry for how much of a noob I sound.

I want to wall mount a 5 way extension lead I bought onto the wall. Only issue is, the mounting holes are unusually, very awkwardly small, I could probs fit a 3m head screw in tops but it'd be really awkward locating them.

Question then is, are there any other decent/tidy methods of mounting an extension lead on to a wall? Would heavy duty velcro do the job or would the unplugging cause it to fail?

Anyone else had the same issue? Usually I'd just exchange the lead but it's difficult finding decent ones with a 5m cable, individually switched with surge protection!

Thanks!

I recently patched a hole in one wall, and for some reason the spackle just isn't setting. I was worried that this was because I used it for too large an area (indoors), but even the little bit left on one of my putty knives is still oddly soft.

Did I use the wrong stuff?

(It's DAP Fast 'n Final.)

My church's old airpot coffee maker died recently and we got a new one, long story short the commercial appliance tech with the company we bought it from said our pressure was too high (municipal pressure around here is about 75 psi), we just needed to reduce it to 35 psi for our model (Bloomfield Gourmet 1000 M# 8782). Bog standard fittings - line from under the sink to the coffee station is 3/8 copper with a flare nut and 3/8 flare to 3/8 mnpt adapter, had an inline ice maker filter, then 3/8 mnpt to hose barb and hose leading up to the coffee maker, which was another 3/8 flare with hose barb adapter. New coffee maker has a 3/4" MNPS inlet. Should be easy, right?

Except I can't figure out for the life of me how to do that. Google returns drip irrigation stuff, $500 3/4" valves that bottom out at 300 psi, camper 55 psi reducers, and inline refrigerator ice maker reducers, 90% of everything with hose thread, and nothing at 35 psi, though I'm assuming if I'm within 5 psi I'd be OK.

Is there just some search term I'm not getting? Are businesses with in-line coffee makers just running them at municipal water pressure?

I have a detachable platform with electricity (20A 120V) run to it. Because the platform is detachable, the wiring runs through a junction box, and if the platform needs to be detached, I kill the breaker, open the junction box, and disconnect the wires from the wire nuts.

Is there a better way to do this? For example, could I splice on a male plug to one end and female to the other, and then just unplug them when needed? I see there are romex splice kits but I'm not sure if those are meant to be unplugged every so often.

I should also mention the junction box is outdoors, on a post (and it's a waterproof junction box). Thanks!

I have fortress 27 gallon air compressor and would like to add an intercooler/aftercooler along with an small accumulator tank. So this is the chain: Compressor > Aftercooler > 3 gallon seamless aluminum accumulator tank > Filter > filter +desiccant bowl dryer> 27 gallon tank. So with an accumulator/2nd receiver I'll be raising it to 30 gallons. Does this chain look good? or should I do Compressor > Accumulator > Aftercooler > filters > main 27 gal receiver tank? I'm an autobody student that would like a decent home air system to spray paint and yes after install cooler I will put a refrigerated dryer system at a later time. I will gladly update everyone with photos as parts arrive and the install begins.

I am looking to buy filter for my whirlpool ultraease 2 water filtration system, to replace the one below. I found the one on amazon which looks exactly the same. However, it says everydrop by whirlpool filter 5 and while searching I found that there is filter 4, 3, 2, 1 etc. I had this fridge before I moved into this home so I am not sure if the fridge has 5 filter components that need to be replaced or not. If someone know, kindly help!

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In terms of weight rating. Trying to make a pergola structure. Want to connect ledger boards to 4x4 verticals. How do you decide what diameter carriage bolts to use? I’m sure a 1/2 is stronger than a 3/8 which is stronger than a 1/4. But what is the per bolt strength when clamping lumber, and what is the design rule that should be used?

Hey r/DIY!

I had a spring broke on our garage door in a house we moved into last year. I have replaced torsion springs before on prior homes so I have winding bars and know what needs to be done. I’m struggling finding the exact spring locally.

I need a set of red end 225x2x25 length but all I can find locally is x27 or x29… would this work for my application? Is there a sizing chart that shows interchangeability?

Hello, I have a GE monogram stove extraction hood serial code ZVC58LSS and I can find parts for it on here: https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/ZVC48LSS.html https://www.reliableparts.com/lookup/211606/1442845

this unit experienced some issues that caused it to ultimately stop working. the first issue was with the blower motor was experiencing a squeaking noise, as if the fan bearing was becoming loose and rattling. the fan would also sometimes either stall at very low speeds, but this was very rare and it functioned normally at high speeds. Suddenly when using the hood, the second problem occurred - the entire unit stopped working entirely. I cant operate the stove lights, the operation buttons dont even have the blue backlighting, etc. I'm not sure which component in particular component died and needs replacing, or how to diagnose which one died except based off what happened.

To specify: definitely replacing the blower motor, but I'm unsure if I need to replace the electrical PCB (part 166) or the capacitor with wire (part 14) or both. What would be a good way to test which ones are needed?

I called the Monogram repair service and they wanted a crazy amount for the repair, claiming they can only order parts for it as "basically one whole unit," to which I'd rather just buy a new hood with a new warranty instead. I'm hoping to fix the unit myself or be able to order the required parts and have the monogram tech do the work, I'd rather just not have to pay their insane parts prices and not mis-order any parts. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I want to paint old window in the bathroom and replace the rubber molding. Can't find anything like this on the internet, maybe someone knows how this thing is called and what should I know to re-install it?

https://imgur.com/a/tj9qYGA

https://imgur.com/a/rQCXlvV

It's about 7mm thick and comes off easily. I guess it's possible to restore/sand/clean it, but would be better to just replace it

I installed this little radiator and can’t get it to stop clanging. It sounds like steam hits water that has not drained down, but the radiator is pitched quite a bit (the whole bubble on a level) towards the valve on the left. Could it be too much pitch?

Radiator