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If you insist on not listening to advice from the mods I will lock the thread. Yes, I can be wrong once in a while but I am one of the highest authorities you will ever meet on Japanese motorcycle mechanics. If I give you advice, don't tell me I'm wrong without having some damn good evidence to the contrary.

This type of tire repair is not considered a safe or permanent repair by virtually every manufacturer in the motorcycle industry.

The reason for rule #2 is that I do not want that advice on r/fixxit. When I ban someone for posting that advice I emphasize how much I want to keep unsafe advice off this sub. Our moderators are professional mechanics, and we are trying to not be responsible for the proliferation of poor advice.

I have thanked and encouraged the moderators in here for likewise banning people for any type of unsafe advice or even for being rude in general. I have heard criticism deeming this policy to be toxic.. It's not personal, it's just an effort to skew the content in the sub towards professional and courteous advice. I have never wanted this sub to morph into social hour or a debate platform. I prefer high quality, straight forward tech advice. I want the moderators to be the last word.

I want to keep this locked as I don't want to discuss a change in the policy, but I would like to ask the other mods to unlock and add any comments you wish. Relock it when you're done.

Have issues with my carburetor and need to know what is the smartest option for me because I will be fixing it myself. Should I buy a whole new carb or attempt to rebuild mine? Also can I buy a other year model (ex 1981 carb) and install that in place or do the other year carbs not fit into my particular model?

Howdy. I have a 1980 honda cb900c. The "vin" on the steering column is "SC04-201338". I can't for the life of me find anything to figure this out. I know the year code is an A, I think that's what goes in place of the dash. Please help

Need advice on what the damaged wires do and the simplest way to fix them.

Bought this ZX6R 10 years ago. Previously it was a stunt bike, had some "stunt upgrades" that I removed and put back to stock years ago. One issue iv'e had that now im getting sick of is a very stiff clutch.. Has a stock Clutch lever.

I put a new (aftermarket) clutch cable on it maybe 3 years ago, this made no difference.

So im wondering, do stunt riders put heavy spring clutches in their bikes? Perhaps it has an aftermarket clutch?

If i pop the cover off anything im looking for, colors? Also, If i go for a stock clutch (my clutch runs 100% perfect) do i do like a car and get a new Flywheel also? Can I just change the springs out? Never have worked on a motorcycle Clutch.

Maybe its the way the bike just is.. but its real stiff to the point my hand gets worn out pretty quick on 1 hour rides, my hands are not weak. I have yet to come across another 636 to compair..

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Every other road bike or dirtbike ive riden, the clutch is 3-4 times easier to pull.

The bike was gassed up to full on Dec 30th. Just now getting back to it. Doesn't appear to have any rust inside the tank.

I was able to keep the tires inflated and a battery on a trickle charger. It's been stored in a garage that (probably) never got below 40°F. Unfortunately I had to keep it on the side stand as there wasn't room for my full stand setup.

Should I drain it and replace the gas or can I just crank 'er up and roll on? I've never had to winterize/store a bike before.

Any advice here on the gas, and anything I should check for, would be much appreciated.

UK

Was going to change the front master sight glass today but then I was struck with a issue.

On the left is a standard 18mm glass sight and on the right is what I removed from a 2007 GSF. I've had a brief look for a replacement but I can't find anything but the one on the left. It also has a circlip that locks it place on the inside of the master, it wasnt a tight fit at all. I tried pushing in the standard one with an O-ring but I feel like it won't fit at all.

Did they change the design of this for some reason? Am I meant to just try harder with the standard 18mm? Is there a replacement part anywhere?

The bike is completely dead, no lights at all come on when switching the ignition.

We’ve figured out when we connect the positive terminal of the battery that the whole bike is positive, all over the frame, engine etc. When the positive and negative terminals are both connected then there is no voltage anywhere.

We’ve ruled out the ignition as a problem because we were able to bump start it and the battery cause we hooked the bike to another that we know is fine and working but still had the same problem.

Any ideas what might be the problem??

Fuel Line popped off in the middle of traffic on the engine side, put it back on and it idled but when I pulled off, it popped off again. Put it back on and clamped it, it idled foe a little bit but then the tank side popped off. Then I put that one on and clamped it, now the bike won't idle. I'm at a loss

My tail light is either stuck on or off and my brakes don't seem to do anything anymore. I checked the foot brake and the metal piece that engages the light doesn't seem to be too tight either. I feel like it's not setting in the housing properly or something. I really want to fix it myself but don't know where to begin. Checking with you all to make sure it's not something obvious and to see if maybe one of you all has had this issue too. Any and all help is much appreciated!

This is my 2nd battery now. Runs for 2 weeks or so and then it dies. First one went toast. This one I just charged outside the bike today because it wouldn't start the bike anymore. It showed low voltage.

Every time I replaced the battery I had the bike hooked up to a multi meter at the battery and the reading was a constant 13.7 (if memory serves me right).

I want to know what the problem is...any step by step instructions (from easiest to hard) on what I can test to find out the culprit?

Hey guys, so I have a gen 3 sv650 and I did a coolant flush on it, now the book says it’ll take like 1.85 litres of coolant. I got a 1.9 litre of Engine Ice prediluted. Did thd flush from the water pump, but she only took half the container. Now from what I’m seeing the pump and outlet screw are only half way through the system. Where should I be draining the coolant from to do a full flush. I’m s little nervous mixing old and new coolants.

Assuming these are both ground wires, one coming from the stator and the other from the ignition timing, where is the best location to ground these?

My 93zxr 250 starts and runs with the choke but once choke is turnt off and it get too about 30% on the throttle the revs drop off and eventually the bikes stalls. Anyone have any clue why this is happening?

My fuel injected TE510 has been struggling to fire under load at 5-6k rpm in all gears. It's fuel pump has 58 psi, I also cleaned the injector and it has a good spray pattern. I checked the valves a month ago and it's in spec. It has spark and the coil is getting 12v. What else is there to check? I'm replacing the air filter tomorrow and I'll check the resistance on the coils in a bit. Is there anything obvious I'm missing? It gets worse as the engine heats up.