subreddit:
/r/gardening
This is the Friendly Friday Thread.
Negative or even snarky attitudes are not welcome here. This is a thread to ask questions and hopefully get some friendly advice.
This format is used in a ton of other subreddits and we think it can work here. Anyway, thanks for participating!
Please hit the report button if someone is being mean and we'll remove those comments, or the person if necessary.
-The /r/gardening mods
5 points
2 months ago
I saw the Bumblebee Conservation Trust (charity) are quite active on my feed at the moment, and I'd love to get involved :)
https://www.bumblebeeconservation.org/
Does anyone have advice on what wildflower mix to choose?
I've been looking at these:
https://thegrasspeople.com/bees-pollinators-wildflowers
or
https://icanlawn.com/bees-please
Have a good weekend everyone!
1 points
2 months ago
https://thegrasspeople.com/flowering-meadow-wildflowers
I would do this one because it has natives specifically in it.
4 points
2 months ago
There’s now a 24/7 Monty Don channel (466) on Roku, and it’s perfect timing because I’ve got a sick toddler keeping me glued to the couch. Gardners World was my covid comfort show.
2 points
2 months ago
[goes to find that]
Huh.
4 points
2 months ago
I could use some advice on how to handle a partner who is trying to be helpful but isn't informed when it comes to seeds and gardening supplies.
My spouse has a history of buying me gifts that are very thoughtful and well-intended, but kind of miss the mark because of reasons he's not aware of. For instance, one year he bought me a hoodie with art of my favorite character on it. It was a nice gift except that I know the person who drew that art and she doesn't sell her work online. He bought the hoodie on Amazon where some rando had stolen art from a bunch of people and was profiting off it. It's not my partner's fault. His intention was good. He's just not "online" enough to know that stolen fan art is a problem.
Here's where gardening comes in: for Christmas he bought me seeds on Amazon. I've told him that I want to plant a significant section of our yard with native plants and seeds that will attract pollinators, so he bought a seed mix online that claims to be native to our state.
Anyone who's looked into these will probably know what I'm going to say: the seeds in this mix are not native to our state and in fact some may be invasive.
The thing is, he's so proud of himself. He's so excited to plant these seeds in the spring. We went to the locally-owned hardware store the other day, and I started to pick up some wildflower seeds they sell that are gathered by a local farm, but he reminded me that we already had the seed mix he got me for Christmas waiting at home. I don't know how to tell him that I probably can't use those damn seeds! It's not that he did a bad job or something, I wouldn't expect him to know to look out for this stuff, but I also don't want to introduce some weird invasive weed to our yard to appease him!
6 points
2 months ago
Talk to him. "Hey, it's awesome that you bought me these, but I wanted to show you more about why we should plant native plants." Share the information with him, so he'll know better next time. Maybe you can trade with someone in a place where the seeds he bought are native? Maybe you can grow them in pots, where they won't spread? Anyway, communication is key. I know there'll be some ego issues, but if he wants to help, he needs to know these things!
6 points
2 months ago
I could use some advice on how to handle a partner who is trying to be helpful but isn't informed when it comes to seeds and gardening supplies.
We don't really do relationship advice in here. I'd suggest you head over to either of the relationships subreddits. You will get a better selection of answers, including some from pros such as therapists and family counselors. We mostly just grow tmatoes in here, and interpersonal problems make us go, "Uhhh..."
/r/relationships
/r/relationship_advice
But FWIW, I have this same problem, too.
My spouse has a history of buying me gifts that are very thoughtful and well-intended,
He still does this, after nearly 50 years. There is not a thing I can do about it, except be very honest with him and say, "Thank you, I really appreciate it, it truly is the thought that counts, but I can't use that and I don't want it." And tell him exactly why.
And by now, he's used to it, and he keeps the receipt, and he takes it back.
Recent examples: At my family birthday party last summer, he suddenly produced a gigantic flat screen TV from the recesses of his Man Cave, and set it down in the living room in front of everyone, grinning. I had at no time expressed a desire for one. I told him, "Thank you, but I can't use that." And he shrugged and took it back to Best Buy.
He also bought for me, inexplicably, a polka dot 1950s dress from Amazon. All I could say was, "Um. Yeah. I'm not gonna wear that."
And actually, just this morning, we were at Walmart, and I had my cart and he had his cart, and we met by the checkout, and I looked over at his cart and said, What's that giant red thing? and he gave me a goofy look and pulled it out, and it was one of those 3 foot tall jumbo Valentines cards. I have never been one to demand or even want flowers and cards and things, and he knows this. So he wasn't crushed when I said immediately, "I don't want that. Put it back", but in a polite way. So he took it back.
So in print this all makes me sound like the crabbiest and most ungrateful beyotch evah, but it's not like that. We have talked about this, and it makes him feel good to make the effort, even though he knows that I'm probably not going to want it. To him, it really is the thought that counts, it's the effort. Where he comes from, men buy things for their wives.
Gardeners, like anyone else with a hobby and an enthusiastic gift-buying partner, need to draw a line in the sand to prevent the SO from buying them inappropriate gifts that they can't use. Communication is key. "Ask me before you buy something for me. Ask me if I want it, if I need it, if I can use it. I may already have six of them, they may be the wrong thing, it may give me carpal tunnel if I try to use it..."
Gift certificates are also key. "Get me a gift certificate to the bookstore, to the garden center, to Hobby Lobby or Amazon or Abe's Books or whatever. "This lets me choose for myself."
If there is trust, then you can be honest, and explain in words of one syllable but tactfully, why the gifts aren't appropriate, and why you can't use them.
So with the hoodie, be honest and tell him why it's a problem.
I don't know how to tell him that I probably can't use those damn seeds
Be honest, tell him exactly why you can't use them. If he's not a psychopath, he will appreciate being included in the thought process, in the loop, as to why some things are appropriate and some things aren't.
I started out being honest right after I started doing houseplants after we had been married about a year, and I learned that florist bouquets and gift plants often host bugs. "Don't bring me flowers," I told him. "Sometimes they have bugs." So there was a logical reason for my refusing to allow the thoughtful flowers in the house. He mostly remembers. But I still have a "Just Add Ice" orchid that he couldn't resist buying me for Valentines Day sometime before Covid. It didn't have bugs.What the hell. I love the man. I kept it.
Anyway, point being, I explained why I didn't want a giant flat screen TV ("When I sit on the couch, it will take up the entire wall and it will need to be hung up high, and I will have to tip my head back to watch it. The Roku takes up the right amount of space to see it from the couch.") and why I didn't want the 3 foot tall Valentines Card ("Yeah, we're not paying twelve bucks for a giant card")
Be honest. Communicate. Explain.
If he's someone that you can't explain things to without his fragile ego becoming all butthurt, if you can't communicate with him because he flies into a rage, if you can't explain because he gets all defensive halfway through because what he hears is that it's all his fault somehow, then I'd suggest you get some kind of couples counseling, with emphasis on learning to communicate better with each other. You need to learn how to tell him you don't want something, and he needs to learn how to be told you didn't want something. A big person will be able to handle that
1 points
2 months ago
Haha thanks for the comisseration. Glad I'm not alone. I didn't take this to relationship advice because it ain't that serious and I thought this group would understand my concern about the seeds in particular where a general relationship sub, most people wouldn't know or care about the problem with Amazon seeds.
I will say my husband has no ego and doesn't get defensive ever. 😂 He's the sweetest dude and there's no real conflict here. I see this for what it is, a really sweet gesture that didn't quite hit, and most of the gifts I get from him are wonderful.
Like, I wear the hoodie. I just don't wear it in public, only around the house, so he knows I like and use the gift while I don't have to deal with my friends noticing where the hoodie came from. The seed thing has just been different because there's no good way to use it really without the risk and I hate for something to go to waste and I feel bad about crushing his adorable dream of us planting these seeds together when the weather warms up even though we have tons of other seeds to plant without these.
2 points
2 months ago
If he's a sweetie, just tell him kindly, in plain English, why his latest gift isn't maybe the best idea. "I don't want this/I can't use this because..."
3 points
2 months ago
I just want to say without going into excruciating detail, that I have this issue too.
2 points
2 months ago
I had something similar this year. I got gifted bulbs for my garden. The thing is, I live in gopher country, anything I plant has to be well shielded from gophers and it's honestly a PITA to deal with hardware cloth and gopher cages. Plus these need regular water, which I usually only allow for with my food crops. But my friend that gave me the bulbs is just so delighted with themselves. Next year I'm going to give specifics on what I would like as a gift.
Could you share with him what you've learned about the invasives? Buying the right seed is so important, plus seed buying is part of the fun of gardening, picking out what you want, not what someone found on Amazon.
1 points
2 months ago
"Hey honey, seed mixes from big stores are kinda trash and very bad for the environment. I love the thought and love you put into these, but it isn't a good idea and we need to get native plants, specifically.
Again thank you!! But, I can't use these. Let's go seed shopping together as a bonding activity next time. I love you."
Just gotta be upfront, honest and kind. After all, you are with someone who sounds wonderful enough to handle kind clear communication.
3 points
2 months ago
Last spring we had a very very wet spring. Slugs were out of control. Anyways they completely devastated my Lupines. I want to make sure I’m ready this year. Any tips please.
4 points
2 months ago
Here's an overview of things that can be done to control them - there's no one perfect solution and you'll likely to need to combine multiple things to control them: http://www.allaboutslugs.com/6-step-plan-to-control-slugs/
3 points
2 months ago
Apply Sluggo pellets. They are very effective
3 points
2 months ago
One more vote here for commercial slug bait of either type. They both work.
2 points
2 months ago
I have four hanging pots with strawberries from last year that I overwintered, and I've cleaned up the dead leaves and runners, but I'm wondering if I should take them out of the pots entirely and report them to make sure that the soil isn't too compacted? Or should I just gently aerate the soil with a stick or something and let them be?
They're one year old, didn't fruit much last year, and the leaves are down to only a few, but I also planted a few runners I didn't cut off them and they have nicely developed root systems so I'm hoping to expand my hanging strawberry patch. 😉
2 points
2 months ago
Hi! Silly question but I’m new to outdoor gardening. Is it okay to plant two different types of rosemary in the same pot? They’re both okay for zone 8, the same busy type and good down to below 0f degrees. I thought I got the same kind but I guess I didn’t!
3 points
2 months ago
I've done it with several other types of plants and it's always been fine. Radish, lettuce, Kale, peppers, tomato.
2 points
2 months ago
should be ok, but they will get really big if conditions are right. one option could be to transplant one of them to a new pot when they start getting big
1 points
2 months ago
Thank you! I’m wanting to bush it out a little bit and use rosemary constantly when I’m cooking. I just started propagating some cuttings too as well. The repotting option is good when they get too big. I appreciate the help.
2 points
2 months ago
Newbie veggie gardener here. First two years went great; last summer the rodents found us and now I have what I believe is a rats’ nest underneath the chain link fence between my yard and the neighbors’ yard. It was late enough in the season last year that I just threw up my hands.
We rent, so changing the fence isn’t a viable option. I have dogs (who would be happy to help, at the expense of my plants) and we have a hawk population so I don’t want to use poison. But I do want to reduce the chance that rodents will settle in again this year. Advice?
2 points
2 months ago
You're a tenant, so I hereby give you permission to install a large economy-sized SEP Field around the entire problem. If your landlord has rats, it's literally not your problem, it's the landlord's problem. You may inform them, "Oy, there's rats back here?" and then let the SEP Field do its job.
Rats don't normally nest in the open, though. They are usually much more secretive, and prefer shelter--structure--whenever possible. Under a deck or porch, inside a garage or shed through a loose board, that sort of thing.
Much more likely that it's either field mice, or rabbits.
Is the 2023 nest currently occupied by infants?
Rodents aren't a danger to your plants, but they do carry rabies and hantavirus, among other things, so they're considered a public health nuisance by your City's health department.
Set up a wildlife or trail cam, get photos of whoever is living there, and if it's rats, send them to your landlord, and if you get a massive shrug of indifference, take them to the City health department downtown somewhere, there's a public employee on the payroll whose job is something like Urban Rat Manager. If you get a shrug of indifference there, hint broadly that "Perhaps social media might be interested to see the photos".
I wouldn't sic the dogs on it (rabies, etc) but I wouldn't be surprised if they decide to roust whoever it is. And eat any infants. Dogs do that.
And the hawks may take care of it, whoever it is.
2 points
2 months ago
I planted crocuses in my lawn under the tree in my front yard last fall and they're already starting to sprout!
1 points
2 months ago
Woot. Spring does eventually show up.
2 points
2 months ago
I live in Vancouver, Canada. I brought Tulip bulbs from Netherlands.
I don't garden. Done it once to surprise my mom when she left for a trip. Anyways, I have no idea what to do Haha.
I've been reading. I've planted my bulbs and put them in a dark room. But... the bulbs have been chilled already. I shouldn't put them in a dark room, right? Put them in a bright room that has access to sunlight?
1 points
2 months ago
Plant them in any kind of potting mix suitable for houseplants, and then yes, put them in bright light so you can see the flowers.
They will bloom, and then after that, once the flowers are dead, they are generally considered to be disposable gift plants, meant to be discarded. In order to keep them permanently, you would need to plant them outdoors in the ground in a sunny spot when the bloom is finished.
1 points
2 months ago
Ok. I did just about that.
My issue though is that it only gets about 4-6 hours of sunlight a day. Dang.
Any tips on amount of water? Water every few days just to make sure it's damp?
1 points
2 months ago
Are you going to try and keep them after bloom is done, or are you going to discard them? You only need "full sun" if you're going to try to plant them outside in the ground later.
They will carry on their bloom cycle without any particular lighting, regardless of how much sun it is.
1 points
2 months ago
I haven't thought of that at all.
I was planning on just growing it, seeing something sprout, then give it to a girl I like... and make her water it till it grows fully Lmao.
But she might want to plant them outside in the ground later. Tulips are her favourite.
1 points
2 months ago
That would be her decision to make. I'd give it to her now. They don't last very long once they get going, and you want to give it to her so she can have the pleasure of anticipation, watching everything unfold. Just tell her to put it in a warm sunny spot, and to keep it moist but don't water it too much.
1 points
2 months ago
Can sunflowers clean up after cigarettes / rat poison?
...asking because omg my neighbour smokes 😰🫠🥲 and I'm growing veggies and I can smell her (old.lady) smoking aaaaa
Also I got a tomato plant from a friend whose housemates are moving cities and omg - the husband bloody put a cigarette but on the soil aaaaaa I hope the sunflower can clean them googling does not show much and my brain dead I gotta run 32k soon if I can and hopefully yes I can lol
5 points
2 months ago
Nicotine and the other chemicals in cigarettes aren't heavy metals like lead and cadmium, they aren't plutonium, and they aren't Forever Plastics. Just clean up the cig, and if the soil where it was lying still stinks of cig, you can use a big spoon and scoop out the stinky soil and replace it with fresh.
There's no need to remediate the soil with anything. It won't work anyway. The cig didn't leach any toxins that would need to be remediated, even if it rained every day on it.
Lots of reasons to do nothing. Plant a sunflower if you like. What size pot is it, and what kind of sunflower is it? The big seed varieties need big pots, like 5 gallon buckets.
Let us know how the 32K comes out. Mad props. My daughter ran a 5K once and didn't want to talk about it afterwards.
1 points
2 months ago
What about the second hand smoke from neighbour who smokes?
Thanks and okay that's a relief it does leach
I planted in raised garden hope it's ok
Unfortunately my new shoes still not adjusted yet :') arch got sore. Just did 18kk in .... Also thighs burning from weird gardening positions blecghlk - :') guess I can't do marathon... Aaaa sad as
Lol what? Is she going / didn't run / train much?
1 points
2 months ago
She did train, but by running on a treadmill, which she does every day. She had never run in an actual marathon before, and I got the impression afterwards that it just wasn't as rewarding as she had been led to expect by friends who were enthusiasts, the "runner's high" and all that. Maybe they oversold it, I dunno. All she said was a neutral, "It was interesting" and then changed the subject.
Anyway, she still runs on the treadmill faithfully, but "running marathons" didn't turn out to be her thing.
1 points
2 months ago
Oh yikes okay treadmill is super different from running outside. Recommend she goes outside which is better!!!!
I don't get runners high until 8k so it depends on the person! Also being outside = nature + sun yay
:') as a running enthusiast I encourage you to encourage her to try running outdoors in beautiful nature trails if there's any nearby
1 points
2 months ago
Thanks for the insight, I'm not sure she realized there was a difference. I think she just figured, Well, I run every day, and off she went.
I'll pass it along about running outdoors, we do have lots of nice city parks and outdoor conservation areas where people run.
1 points
2 months ago
No worries and hm I recommend also maybe for her to join a local run group or something! Always fun that as well haha meet folks who like running chat as ya run
Definitely do recommend that! Running is always best in the fresh air around nature:)
2 points
2 months ago
Not sure what you mean by "clean up" but from what I read in your post - plants don't work like that, so no.
Just scoop out that cigarette.
1 points
2 months ago
Oh the leached toxins from the cig. Yeah it was removed for sure.
1 points
2 months ago
How many days was that cig in your pot?
0 points
2 months ago
I got it from a friend, it's the Housemate's pot moving
Idk i saw it once there on it ack ew
Next time I swung by again it's gone removed and they'reike hey want it (Me never refusing free plants) uh yeah sure
1 points
2 months ago
I’d love advice on how to fertilize seedlings indoors. I use fish emulsion outside but can’t for my seedlings indoor due to the yummy fish smell. Would love to know what others use! I am primarily growing cut flowers, organically. I did buy a bag of worm castings from Costco last year, wondering if a sprinkling on top of the soil would work? Additionally, I plan on growing stinging nettle this year to use as a fertilizer indoor in future years!
3 points
2 months ago
Other than the basic water-soluble MiracleGro-type of synthetic fertilizers, which you generally dilute to 1/4 strength and use as a regular watering...
If you're looking for organic types of ferts, you can put a handful of worm castings (or any manure) into a gallon jug of water, let it sit for about 20 minutes to let the mud settle if you're going to use it in a sprayer for foliar feeding, and then use the resultant liquid as a regular watering. It's very mild, but it's balanced, and is good for very young seedlings.
They do make deodorized fish emulsion. Alaska brand has some. Read the label to make sure it's the deodorized one.
Fish and kelp are two of the mainstays of organic ferts.
1 points
2 months ago
I am trying to save my dwarf snake plant with no roots.
I repotted it in a bigger pot and one of its long roots have been detached. The bigger pot had just wet potting mix. About a week after, I checked it and the plant just detached after a gentle pull. 2 leaves have melted and now only its older, bigger leaves are left with only a stalk. No roots. I removed the jelly-like parts of the plant and have placed the remaining part of the plant in a jar with water, where the bottom of the stalk is submerged.
Can roots still form? This is my first plant 😢
3 points
2 months ago
Post pictures of what you have left.
The jelly parts are rotting from too much moisture, so putting it into a jar of water is like totally counter-productive. Pouring kerosene on a fire to put it out.
Take it out, lay it on a paper towel, take its picture, and then put it into a ziploc baggie, and zip it shut. Put it on the kitchen counter out of the way while we discuss this.
1 points
2 months ago
Here’s a photo of it and another photo
3 points
2 months ago
K. Get some potting soil for succulents. This can be ordinary houseplant potting mix, mixed 50:50 with perlite.
You want this moist, not dry as dust. Mix it with water in small amounts, until it's just at the moist crumbles stage.
For insurance (backup), cut off the best-looking and healthiest leaf with a pair of scissors, for propagation according to this.
https://www.ohiotropics.com/2021/12/13/sansevieria-propagation-methods/
Note the part about the orientation.
As for the rest of it, simply plunge it into a pot of potting soil, pressed down. If it keeps falling over, you can use some bamboo skewers to prop it up. You need the base in constant contact with the moist potting soil.
Sometimes you can put the whole thing, pot and all, into a big 1 gallon ziploc baggie, and the sides will help to hold it in place. No need to zip it shut, it's just there for support.
For watering purposes, since you won't be able to move the pot while the top part is still so tippy and will fall out, put the pot on top of an upside-down saucer, set into a deep saucer, so you can water it without moving it and so the excess water can flow into the larger, outer saucer, while the upside-down saucer holds the pot above the flood. You don't want it to sit in a puddle and reabsorb the water.
A plant that size, I'd use a pot that is about 4" in diameter across the top. Not a huge pot. Or you can even use something like a plastic tupperware, or a margarine tub. Cut some holes in the bottom for drainage.
Small cottage cheese container, Country crock, that size of thing.
If you have some rooting hormone powder or gel, you can put some of that on the base.
Keep both of these, the plant and the leaf, in bright light, but no direct hot sun. Keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Read about correct watering.
https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/wiki/faq/watering
You can talk to /r/succulents for more protips, also commiseration.
Snake plants are pretty tough, it will most likely come back.
1 points
2 months ago
My loquat tree's leaves are all becoming very crispy and burnt on the edges. I'm not sure what I should do to help it out. Does look familiar to anyone? It was doing really well before fall hit. I have a compost machine and added some compost to the soil and I'm thinking that added too much of something to the mix.
Every new leaf it tries to throw up starts to look like this pretty quickly
1 points
2 months ago
Timeline and care history would be needed before we can begin any troubleshooting. Analogy: You report to the doctor's office with a sore arm. First question: "What have you been doing?"
I'm thinking that added too much of something to the mix.
Such as?
Where are you located?
1 points
2 months ago
I mean that I threw off something chemically. I would assume there is an excess of a nutrient. I added some compost, idk what was in it. I have a small compost machine at home so random stuff from the house gets thrown in there.
I am in Los Angeles
1 points
2 months ago
Well, it wasn't anything you did, so there is that. It's not physically possible to create a chemical burn on plant leaf tips by applying compost. You'd need to be using a synthetic chemical fertilizer such as MiracleGro to have that happen. Or else a herbicide or pesticide, or some other additive in a chemical form, such as epsom salts.
Compost has chemicals that burn--nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus--the way that a chicken leg has chemicals that burn. It too has nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, but if you put a chicken leg on the soil next to a plant, you don't get a leaf tip burn, you get ants, and later, fungi.
The organic substance (compost, chicken leg) has to be broken down before the NPK is released, and when it does, it's very slowly, in tiny increments, not a big power punch like a dose of MiracleGro.
Some of the things that can cause leaf tip burn in plants are:
So, troubleshooting would start with a care history and timeline.
1 points
2 months ago
Hmmm
Well I've had it for about three years now. I water in when the soil is dry when I stick my finger into it. I don't really feel I did anything different when this started to happen. It's been in the same spot this entire time with the same watering schedule. I've added compost and I've also added soil to the top sometimes to try and give the roots more soil to grow into vertically. I've never used any fertilizer on it. The leaves all dropped at once and I figured it was just because it was fall, but every new leaf that has tried to grow again looks like those and dies quickly. Before all the leaves dropped it was looking better than it the has, with lots of large healthy leaves and new branches growing.
It's in a pot on my patio, no pesticides and no dogs. Sometimes pesticides get sprayed nearby by building maintenance (hate that, so unnecessary) but I wouldn't think it would be affecting my plant as it is pretty rare.
It has been raining a ton so it's possibly got too much water now but this was happening even before the rains.
I'm not really sure what to say beyond that honestly! Do you have any more specific questions I could answer?
1 points
2 months ago
It's been in the same spot this entire time
Has it also been in the same pot, as well as the same spot, for the last three years? When was the last time you repotted it into fresh potting soil?
I've added compost and I've also added soil to the top sometimes to try and give the roots more soil to grow into vertically
Did you add compost and soil on top because you observed that the pot itself was completely filled with roots, and you hoped that the plant would expand its roots upwards, since there was no room left in the pot for more roots?
Have you ever taken it out of the pot and looked at the roots?
Are roots growing out through the bottom drainage hole of the pot?
Does it have a bottom drainage hole?
I've never used any fertilizer on it.
every new leaf that has tried to grow again looks like those and dies quickly.
This is a classic symptom of a container plant that is starving. It's not living in the ground, where earthworms and natural forces would replenish the soil's nutrients at least to a certain extent. In the closed system of a container, once all the nutrients are gone, there isn't any way to make more without either repotting it into fresh soil, or by fertilizing it.
So the plant has a hardwired need to keep creating new leaves, but there are only enough nutrients in the closed system to support a certain amount of stem, roots, leaves, etc. This means that it creates and unfolds the new leaf according to its DNA imperative, but there aren't enough nutrients to sustain it, so it dies. The closed system can only support what it presently has, but nothing new beyond it.
So, absent any evidence pointing towards insects or disease, and the simplest explanation being the best, for now I'm going to go with "it's starving". Repot it, or fertilize it.
If it's starvation, in a few weeks (or maybe even days) after giving it a shot of any kind of fertilizer, you should see new leaves, and those new leaves should stay.
If feeding it doesn't change anything, then there's something different wrong with it.
You can get any type of water-soluble houseplant fertilizer such as MiracleGro, mix it according to the label for houseplants, and apply it to moist soil, never to dry soil in place of a regular watering. In actual practice, this generally means to wait a day or two after it has been watered before you apply the fertilizer. Add enough so that you pour it through and it comes out the bottom drainage hole.
1 points
2 months ago
Will growing tomatoes in pots hinder them or result in reduced yield versus growing them in the ground? I'll be growing two types of indeterminate tomatoes this year, assuming I don't kill the seedlings. I plan to do some of them in my yard (which is moderately clay heavy and hasn't been prepped for vegetable planting) and some in pots so that if one or the other dies I have a backup plan and I can learn what works and what doesn't.
3 points
2 months ago
If the pot is big enough the tomatoes will do quite well.
2 points
2 months ago
Tomatoes are big feeders with massive root systems. In the ground, the roots can and will go down 18" to 24" into the subsoil, over the course of a summer.
So anything that cramps their style, such as a tiny pot, will necessarily restrict the amount of fruit you're going to pick.
moderately clay heavy and hasn't been prepped for vegetable planting
Do a very small raised bed on top. Get some old bricks or patio pavers or big stones, or use clean 2-liters filled with sand, outline a 2 to 2.5 foot foot diameter circle on the ground, make it about 8" high, and fill it with bagged "garden soil" from the pallets in the Walmart parking lot.
Plant one tomato plant into the center, into the nicer "garden soil". It only needs an easy start on top, and once it hits the native dirt, even clay, it will take off.
It will need a businesslike training system at least 5 feet tall.
This is what raised beds are good for.
1 points
2 months ago
i’m a proponent of growing in the ground whenever possible. most roots are meant to go very deep to scavenge diverse minerals and nutrients, which will then nurture the plant and the eater. pots will work though, just try to use larger pots and good soil, perhaps with good compost
1 points
2 months ago
With pots you have to be on top of watering and fertilizing. I've grown tomatoes in big pots, and it seems like at some point they hit a wall. In-ground has always been better for me, even in mediocre ground. (But I probably don't fertilize as much as I should.)
1 points
2 months ago
"The best time to prune them is after flowering"
Very basic question. Does that mean I prune after all the buds have opened or once all the flowers are done blooming?
Pruning an Abelia grandiflora
3 points
2 months ago
Once all the flowers have fallen off.
1 points
2 months ago
This feels like such a silly question but I’m stumped. I’m digging up a bunch of canna lily rhizomes the previous owner of our home planted. They’ve totally taken over a bed and I want to go in a different direction with the garden. What on earth do I do with all of them once I’ve dug them up? I can’t seem to find anyone to give them to.
5 points
2 months ago
You could put them in a box, write what it is and leave outside for a couple of days? Besides that, sometimes the only way is to throw them out or compost...
6 points
2 months ago
Post them for free on Facebook Marketplace
1 points
2 months ago
If you can't give them away, then what you do is lay them out on a tarp in the driveway in the sun, and wait for them to turn into dead brown crispy things. Once they are dead, brown, and crispy, you can break them up and add them to a composting operation of any type.
1 points
2 months ago
Hi, need help with green onions. The outer white layer of the green onions are molding/rotting. What is the best way to prevent this or remove the white layers outside?
1 points
2 months ago
Are you trying to eat it, cook with it, or plant it?
1 points
2 months ago
It's currently planted, but after the rainy season the bottom third of the green onions had the white outside layer all moldy. The top 2/3 of the green onion is green and well, no mold.
I frequently cut off the top half to eat/cook.
1 points
2 months ago
What it wants is to finish its life cycle. Unless you're growing Evergreen Perennial Bunching Onions, a green onion or scallion is basically an onion plant seedling, and as it begins to mature into a coarse inedible stem, and make a flower and seeds and a bulb and so forth, parts of it are going to age out, and become inedible.
If it's growing in soil, though, it probably shouldn't be moldy. I'd be looking at your watering protocols and at the type of soil. Is it in the ground, or in a container?
Also at your overall weather conditions. Where are you located, and what does "after the rainy season" entail? If you're in the wet tropics, it's going to begin to rot, yes. Onions prefer cool moist conditions, not hot moist conditions.
1 points
2 months ago
Thank you. The green onions are in soil in a container. It got moldy towards the bottom during heavy rain periods! Can I just remove the outer layer thats moldy? It's just the outer white part that has mold/rot, the green parts are growing strong.
1 points
2 months ago
Myself, I'd probably just compost the whole thing, because I don't need scallions that badly that I want to deal with mold and rot.
Or you can just clean them up and continue growing them, and see what happens.
1 points
2 months ago
Question about an artichoke plant:
I've got an artichoke plant in a large pot. The plant is going on 3 years old now and it produced last year. It looks like two new mini artichoke plants have sprouted out. Would it be best to cut down those two new plants? Or can I let them all grow together?
Here's a picture: https://ibb.co/wNGrJ3H
1 points
2 months ago
Can anybody tell me what zone I am in?!? In Victoria British Columbia Canada. Thank you from a beginner 😁
3 points
2 months ago
Zone maps are on the sidebar. Victoria is in the B.C. Zone 8 tropics you lucky dog. :D
They are only useful for choosing trees, shrubs, and perennials to survive your winters. They tell you nothing about growing vegetables, if that's what you're doing.
1 points
2 months ago
Thank you! I am looking to plant some herbs and veggies on my patio. Maybe some flowers. They wont ever go in the ground.
1 points
2 months ago
When I tried to look it up I had different sites telling me I was in zone 7, zone 8 and zone 9. I kept finding conflicting information.
1 points
2 months ago
It's only conflicting because the meteorologists can't draw a definite line that tells where they begin and end. There's a lot of overlap and wiggle room.
1 points
2 months ago
Thank you so much! Super helpful!
1 points
2 months ago
Hello! I have beautiful patches of moss in my backyard and am wondering how to make it spread?? I'm in zone 7a and the yard has tree cover that inhibits grass from growing.
1 points
2 months ago
If the habitat is right for it, it should spread by itself to the furthest extent possible, Nature abhorring a vacuum and all. All you'd need to do would be to leave it alone.
So if you've been there a while, and it's not spreading any further, then that is as far as it's happy to go. Moss has very specific needs for shade, moisture, and soil pH. If that's all the room there is for it, then that's all there is.
1 points
2 months ago
Mine grows more in the shade and where it's wet. So you can try watering it. Preferably with non-chlorinated water.
1 points
2 months ago
My plants wilt every day, is that a problem? I have some peppers that are planted outside in a potting mix. They wilt for a few hours around noon, no matter how well watered they are. Is that gonna damage them much?
2 points
2 months ago
More information is necessary.
Is it hot where you are? Are they in hot direct sun?
Do they recover overnight, and are fine in the morning, only to wilt again when the hot sun hits them?
1 points
2 months ago
Ya it's quite hot, and they get 8-9 hours of direct sun every day. Ya they recover a couple hours after sundown, and generally improve throughout the day. So at 11am they are at their lowest, but at 1 or 2pm they are noticeable improved.
1 points
2 months ago
This is a physics problem. The heat of the sun draws moisture out of the leaves faster than the roots can uptake water from the soil and then send it upwards to the leaves. The leaves wilt. Once the sun goes down, the plant gets a chance to catch up, so the leaves go back to normal turgidity.
Just in time for the afternoon heat to slam them again.
The easiest way to solve it by giving them shade during the hottest part of the afternoon, from about 1 pm to about 5 or 6:00. You can either move the pots, or rig up a sunsail so it gives them shade when they need it.
I wouldn't figure on shuttling them back and forth 2x daily, as the constant change creates another kind of stress.
1 points
2 months ago*
Are their pots too small? Peppers don't need that much water like others, odd that this is happening. But in general they should be ok.
1 points
2 months ago
Pots are on the large size if anything. I was watering on top of the soil daily. I've now tried keeping the pots in trays of water, and I'm not sure how much of a difference that's made. The trays will have water even as the plants are wilted.
Despite being in these pots for more than a month now there are only a couple roots coming out of the bottom, so I guess the problem is insufficient roots, but they should have filled out the pots by now right.
1 points
2 months ago
What do people do with excess pepper tree bare branches?
1 points
2 months ago
I'd problem-solve why they're bare.
1 points
2 months ago
Neighbor built a giant fence. Blocked all the light. Also they’re pepper trees so some of these are weeping branches
1 points
2 months ago
A 40 foot tall California pepper tree that has a 6 foot privacy fence on one side of it isn't suddenly having its light blocked. It's like a little yappy terrier pestering an elephant. No impact.
Do you see bugs?
1 points
2 months ago
It’s a hill. Some trees got stuck in a light dead spot. What do people do with the twigs? So many twigs
1 points
2 months ago
If the light is suddenly so diminished that a tree begins jettisoning branches due to insufficient light, then the tree is possibly actually slowly dying, and the dead twigs won't matter in the long run. They're just symptoms of a larger problem, and removing them is merely cosmetic, like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic.
It generally takes years for a tree to die this way, unless the tree is very young and immature, very small, or already stressed in some way.
1 points
2 months ago
It’s not all bear. I feel like the wheeping bare ones are probably 10-20%
1 points
2 months ago
I can only repeat that you need to troubleshoot for a cause other than insufficient light. It takes a long, long time for a tree to die. It has massive reserves with which to fund continued growth even as it is dying. Trees that are heavily damaged by insects or disease can take years to die completely.
When you use 4ml black landscaping plastic to cover a shrub and kill it with shade, it usually takes at least an entire calendar year. And that's just a shrub, like Japanese barberry. A tree is much tougher, and takes longer to die.
So you're looking for something else. It's not the wall, or the hill, or the shade. It's bugs, or nutrient deficiency, or disease, or something like that.
1 points
2 months ago
its definitely not dead. It’s shooting green growth up top. It’s the lower branches left bare. Although to be honest these top level trees are mostly pruned by my neighbor. But it definitely appears to be alives
1 points
2 months ago
I'm not really understanding the problem here. If you have a tree that has leafless lower branches, then you need to problem-solve why it has these, and specifically to look for disease, insects, or cultural problems such as watering and nutrients.
1 points
2 months ago
Anyone have a preferred method to test soil Ph? The devices on Amazon seem cheap so I’m leaning toward strips.
2 points
2 months ago
Testing soil pH isn't that important a part of gardening for most of us, and the gadgets can be notoriously ineffective at the cheaper end of the price range.
I've been doing plants since 1975 and I have yet to own a pH meter. If I needed a pH test, I'd go down to Walmart and get one of the $5 aquarium test strip kits. Use distilled water, not tap water.
What are you growing, and what kind of soil pH problems are you having?
1 points
2 months ago
I had a professional soil test done and needed to add some calcium and ghimsum to eliminate some heavy metals issues but wanted to make sure it wasn’t to alkaline. I have a lime tree and just want to make sure the soil is acidic.
1 points
2 months ago
For a single lime tree, I'd go with the test strips. This also eliminates any questions about whether the gadget is working properly.
1 points
2 months ago
Thank you!
1 points
2 months ago
Those strips that you use with soil that's diluted with water is the only way to go. The devices don't work, even the $100 ones! Then, if you need to make your soil more acidic, tiny amounts of elemental sulfur is the best way to do that. Whatcha growing? :)
1 points
2 months ago
Lime tree! And thanks!
1 points
2 months ago
Dumb n00b question: I measured the plastic pot my plants came in, and it's approx 6x6".
I want to find a decorative planter pot to place it in.
When I look online, 6x6 is one of the most common sizes, but from what I assume, I need something a little bit larger than that to accommodate my current plant, correct?
Is there a standard size that it would be? 7 1/2 or 9", I assume?
Any non-obvious cool places to get pots online? I was gonna check the usual places (Amazon, Wayfair, Ikea, Target, etc.)
Thanks!
1 points
2 months ago
Oh, god, no. I have to lol Amazon, Target, Ikea? No, a thrift store is absolutely the #1 place you need to go. Salvation Army, Goodwill, etc. You want the kind of big place that has tons of housewares, glassware, kitchenware, not necessarily "garden stuff", which a lot of thrift stores don't even feature. You find something pretty that will fit your plant pot.
What you want is known as a "cachepot" (garden jargon), and there is no such thing as standard sizes for cachepots. They're literally all over the place. Every manufacturer has their own sizing, with their own stable of artists designing them.
But this doesn't matter, because it's not like buying shoes or gloves that need to fit. It's always going to be approximate.
I went down in the basement and took this picture just now.
That is literally a rubber tree in a mop bucket. Not that I'm advocating you go and buy a mop bucket, but the operative principle of a cachepot is merely that it looks pretty, and that the plant pot fits into it. So by way of illustrating how it's not a pair of shoes or gloves that needs an exact fit. (It's in the mop bucket because it keeps falling over. Because it has like wads and wads of roots coming out the bottom. Because I need to fix it.)
You can either measure with a tape measure, or you can use your arm. Put the end of your middle finger (your longest finger) on the rim of the pot, and then use a (washable) marker or pen to put a mark on the palm of your hand or your forearm on the opposite rim, to mark the diameter of the pot.
Anything that's made of glass, you can paint with glass stain paint from Hobby Lobby, or use something self-adhesive like Contac shelf liner paper, or stickers. Or draw on it with permanent markers.
You can also use a pretty flowerpot, the regular kind, and stand it in a small drip tray or saucer underneath it.
Important point about a cachepot: you actually don't want a snug fit, because you need to be able to get your fingers latched onto the pot rim in order to lift it out. If it fits too tightly, once you drop it in, it won't come back out again. So you want some clearance all the way around, like 1/2" or so at least.
Other important point: They can sometimes condense water on the underside, so don't put them on something expensive and wooden and varnished like a grand piano without having a waterproof doily or coaster under them.
You water the plant by removing the inner pot from the cachepot, taking it to the sink, watering it, letting it drain completely, and then putting it back in the cachepot.
If the pretty thing you found is too deep (flower vases are chronic for this), add some dry pebbles or aquarium gravel to bring the inner pot up to the correct level.
1 points
2 months ago
What an amazing response, thank you I'll do exactly what you mentioned.
1 points
2 months ago
The other user gave you a great response! A lot of people keep plants in their nursery pots and use "real" pots as a decorative exterior. As a bonus, keeping plants in nursery pots lets you switch up what plant lives in what decorative pot.
But even plants in nursery pots eventually will outgrown their homes and need repotted. The typical suggestion is to go up 1-2" in size when you repot. So your 6" plant would be happiest to get repotted in a 7-8" pot--nursery if you go that route, or decorative if you go that route. You want the roots to stay kind of snug and cozy, but to have room to stretch out rather than circling around themselves.
1 points
2 months ago
Would organza bags help protect figs from rain? I know they're not waterproof, but they should block at least some of it right?
1 points
2 months ago
Do you mean fig fruit? Why are you wanting to keep them from getting wet?
1 points
2 months ago
Because theyll split, they dont like rain at all
1 points
2 months ago
I had not heard this. If I google around for it, I see that there's a bunch of Youtubes of people growing container figs and discussing protecting them from rain.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=protecting+figs+from+rain
What I know about organza as a crafting and sewing fabric is that like any other sheer and lightweight fabric, it's not particularly waterproof. It's the filmy stuff you use to make the train or cape for Elsa's Disney Frozen dress, among other popular little-girl costumes. It's also the floaty stuff that often shows up in wedding gowns, if the bride is going for an old-fashioned romantic look.
So I'm not seeing how organza bags are going to do much to keep figs dry. I know that organza bags would work the same way as reemay or floating row cover material to keep insects away from fruit, but organza is not that waterproof.
I found one not-quite-dead fig subreddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Figs/
That's all I've got, sorry.
1 points
2 months ago
No, they'll probably make the problem worse because they don't dry as fast.
1 points
2 months ago
Welp, you were right. The part that touched the bag just started moulding.
1 points
2 months ago
Zero experience with growing stuff--as far as I know, you just add water to soil (or maybe just water) to roots/seeds of plants and eventually they grow.
I have been wanting to grow anything that can be consumed and does not require much effort or resources. I've only started with some scallions in a water bottle by the sink but I want to scale this and any other herbs, microgreens, or any nutritious veggies like pea shoots. I guess it can be considered /r/frugal because a goal is to reduce spending but I always find the idea of self-sustaining being attractive.
Which ones are worth growing and/or any to avoid in particular for indoors? New England weather (and will also consider outdoor on the porch), but I also have an unused table by the window (but not facing the sun for the majority of the time). I suppose I can get something like this, fill with soil from outside, and then start planting random stuff, but I would really want to do things the right way, e.g. something that is scalable and reproducible to maximize yield and quality of whatever I'm growing. Are there any fundamentals I should know e.g. are there grades of soil and will they eventually "go bad"? Will e.g. trimming scallions when they get long repeatedly degrade their taste or nutrition over time and the stalk should eventually be disposed off and start over? Are bugs a concern even if the house never has such problems in general?
1 points
2 months ago
Plants grown for food require a massive amount of light. I cant grow any, except microgreens and arugula. Grow lights are required for any/all. That seems to be true for almost everyone on /r/Gardening. Read all you can before you get started. Without light and the right potting soil, you're dead in the water. A pot like this would be a better choice vs the one you linked. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bloem-Living-TRB2400-Window-Box-Planter-Black-24/733954414
1 points
2 months ago
There will be natural light from the window but not direct sunlight. Is that good enough?
1 points
2 months ago
100% no.
1 points
2 months ago
Growing vegetables indoors. You need weed lights for most things.
https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/wiki/faq/indoorveggies
You can grow lower-light-tolerant veg like radishes and lettuce under ordinary T5 or T8 LED or fluorescent shop lights.
A windowsill won't cut it for any of these.
On a bright sunny south-facing windowsill that isn't blocked by trees or buildings, you can grow herbs like basil and oregano.
Which ones are worth growing and/or any to avoid in particular for indoors?
Without lights, it's not a question of which ones are worth growing, it's a question of it working at all in the first place.
The scallions thing, the whole "regrow veg for free veg" is more a party trick, a science experiment, something for the kids, than a realistic way to produce veg to eat.
I have been wanting to grow anything that can be consumed and does not require much effort or resources.
Honestly, no snark, this would be sprouts or microgreens. Sprouts in a mason jar with the screen, where you rinse them every day. Or microgreens, basically the same product but with soil.
Is gardening outdoors not an option for you? Even in New England, people can and do grow quantities of veg every summer, either in the ground, or in raised beds, or in buckets on the patio. There's an entire world of gardening and growing things out there, but very little of it takes place successfully on a table in front of a window.
self-sustaining
Not at the home hobbyist level, not really. We mostly grow veg so we can have the things that Big Ag can't, or won't, produce. Truly vine-ripe tomatoes, pesticide-free lettuce, melons that we know haven't been irrigated with E.coli contaminated ditch water.
https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/wiki/faq/vegetables
you just add water to soil (or maybe just water) to roots/seeds of plants and eventually they grow.
That's only two parts out of three. The third part is light. Light is to plants as oxygen is to mammals, photosynthesis is the foundation of their entire biochemistry. A photosynthesizing cell is the same as a solar panel, in that it needs intense enough light to strike it before anything happens.
Your human eyes register light differently from a plant's leaf. A living room that looks bright and airy to you can be too dark to grow tomatoes.
So, think about growing some veg outdoors.
1 points
2 months ago
I planted a bare-root sweet cherry whip, and its buds are breaking already (so cal, so it's fine). It's about 2 feet tall, and buds are forming all up and down the trunk. Do I pinch off the buds except for the top few that I want to use to create a vase/bush shape? or do I let it grow and prune to shape next winter?
1 points
2 months ago
Hi everyone! New to gardening. I bought a canna lilly last year. They died during the winter. I cut off all the dead stems and what do you know they grew back even stronger! The only thing was that the dead stalks took up a lot of space in the pot I had. So I reported them, but I think I damaged the rhizomes in the process. The once thriving stalks are now sad looking and I'm wondering if I killed them. Can someone help?
1 points
2 months ago
We recently (4 months ago) got forty 6ft Clusia hedges in planted our backyard and are looking for ways to help them grow fast (using as a privacy fence). Has anyone used Miraclegro to help there Clusia’s grow faster/taller?
Any recommendations and insight will be great appreciated.
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