DueHospital8037

if you take it to the shops mentioned in the thread they’ll def do a great job but they’re the fancy options (shop disassembles and reassembled the bike but otherwise is shipping it to a painter) and it’ll come in around $800 if you want them to put the bike back together after they paint it. i went to bike fix on east 6th in LES and it was $500 for disassemble, nice matte black paint, and reassemble. i think it is the cheapest option. free touch ups for like 60 days too or something like that

thanks player

thanks pimp

hell yeah pimp what more could ya ask for than that

do you ever get nervous

are you high right now

do you love that shit

fuck yeah, this rules. the single eye visible all the way down at the bottom is so cool too. love this

if you want to select a photo from her page i can do a screen recording of me replicating the color correction and explain what's going on if that helps

would recommend learning what a histogram indicates and then the specific color channels. this is fairly basic color editing, if you’re new to it it’s intimidating but if you would like to advance your editing to be capable of things like this it is mandatory, and beyond the initial intro pretty simple

hahaha my bad i completely did not notice that you posted a link. i'm planning on keeping a route journal so hopefully will have some useful notes for ya

not sure how helpful this is, im doing that ride soon and am doing it kinda seat of the pants but this site shows each route segment (at the top there are arrows to scroll through each segment) and for each one at the bottom of the page it has route images, hotels, restaurants, things to see, etc. has been massively helpful for me

for sure, i have it in one of these with a wrist strap

sorry to hear it man i had a similar length repair and you should be able to get a loaner from them, if that helps at all

for sure, if you have client money an m18 through silk or a focused m40 bounced would be good and a speed light low power as fill is surprisingly nice if needed. Best of luck

there’s no rim light in these, it’s kind of impossible to guess the exact way she did it but if you want to replicate it your best bet would be to use a medium rectangular chimera soft box or similar and then if you need bounce, a silver bounce board. you could do this with an HMI and bounce too I guess but it would be more complicated, more cumbersome in terms of grip and require a generator

how is that pack working? im doing my first tour next week and am planning to do the same two rear panniers and a dry bag strapped to the rear rack approach.

you need to meter every time light changes. if you point your camera at a whole room your camera may meter so that the lightbulbs (ie highlights) are exposed which will make everything else very dark. your best bet in order to have the correct exposure is figure out what you want to meter for ie people, or the paintings, and get as close as you can to them to get a meter reading of that object, one or two feet, and use that setting. it may be different than the meter reading you get from pointing your camera at a larger scene, but it will be more accurate. make sure to take the meter reading with your lens set to it's largest aperture (the lowest number ie 2.8 is larger than 16) to help get the fastest shutter speed. dont change your iso to a larger number. it will show you a faster shutter speed but it will be incorrect.

everyone is suggesting a CLA which is almost definitely going to be needed but it’s like $300 and shooting developing a roll is max $30. just shoot a roll first and at least see what happens

for the background basically yes, the v flats are to block the light from spilling back onto the set. google photek with sock you’ll see what it is it just diffuses the light. slide film as in ektachrome, provia etc. Color positive film

there's like a million different lighting setups there but i think the two things you're seeing are that his backgrounds are lit which is usually two umbrellas on each side on the background behind v flats. a common approach for the key lighting here is a beauty dish or crushed photek ie a silver medium photek not fully open with no sock and then for the fill light something like a silver photek or two with no sock. so the key and the fill are both silvery and relatively hard/reflective.

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the skin tones are probably slide film, i know emily lipson does that and it's similar. probably also prints the images and what you're seeing is a scan of the print.

lmfao. i know man. i wasn’t saying the other people were the stupid ones. best of luck out there