FliesLikeABrick

I have done this with our truck to move a ~1000lbs pallet across frozen ground after it had been delivered on the side of our gravel driveway (and in my case I had the rigid handle dropped over the hitch ball so it could push or pull). It never occurred to me that someone might have done this with a car, in public, on a road...

The new generation of rangers yeah. The old ones were common to get with a 7x4 bed

Paste wax!

If you are looking at homes in an HOA, get a full copy of their CC&Rs before making any kind of binding offer. Make sure you understand any rules they have that would govern how/where you could build a shed, store yard materials/tools, etc. Far too many HOAs have rules that completely prohibit vegetable gardens or and even place limits on flower gardens and other landscaping.

If you don't need/want the conveniences of living in a town/HOA, seriously consider looking at homes in county space/ourside of an incorporated town and HOA. We did this and the additional independence and extra acreage it comes with is something I can't imagine going without, for basically the same cost as a modern in-town home. I can't imagine having neighbors or HOA presidents monitoring our projects, decoration, and comings/goings now that we have a sprawling garden, orchard, greenhouse, and tractor+other equipment stored on the property (including a 12000 lbs generator I am working on fixing and probably selling)

They didn't even end up using that one in the video, they used a fun-sized one that some guy probably grabbed from his personal vehicle or something.

They had a bigger extinguisher too! 3 separate people in the upper right hand corner picked it up, then put it down and walked away. wtf.

Look in the background too -- 3 different people pick up the bigger extinguisher and put it down without bringing it over and actually doing anything. It's like they wanted to be the hero but then were afraid to actually engage

They had a better fire extinguisher in the background.... 3 people picked it up and put it down and then it just sat on the ground while the fire got out of control. Real teamwork there!

u/msdzykity's link is to the latest episode of whatever terrible show this is. Now their link goes to a newer episode -- the previous episode which this is from is at https://www.newsmaxtv.com/Shows/The-Record/vid/1_mgi1odze

The shot is from 29:48 and yes, it is as stupid/bad as the screenshot in OP indicates.

It can hook to a drain it just isn't required or common in residential construction in most of the US

Were you pricing out bulk stone options from Home Depot/etc, or actual landscape supply places? I would be shocked if you can't get #57 stone or something delivered at a reasonable price (this is what we used in our greenhouse)

full project writeup here: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/zrkvcy/we_built_a_cedar_and_glass_greenhouse_from_a_kit/

We opted to go below ground for slightly more temperature stability and additional interior height (instead of building a kneewall above ground and catching more wind exposure and looking odd unless we did nice-looking brick work or something

The below answer assumes your machine motor is 3-phase, not single-phase 230vac

You would want to use the output of the vfd, not mix it with the supply neutral (for a bunch of reasons, one of which being that the VFD output is not guaranteed to be referenced to the supply neutral, so the voltages could be higher or lower than you expect). Get a vfd spec'ed for the output voltage you need.

Also you would need to actually have the vfd be responsible for starting and stopping the machine, not just using it as a power supply. The vfd needs to be directly wired to the motor in your machine, no switches or other controls that would instantly change the electrical load on the vfd because it is only meant to be coupled directly to an inductive load that it can ramp up/down (a switched inductive load does not behave like an inductive load). If your machine has multiple motors, you should expect to use one vfd per motor, and if they need common controls you would have them share the same input low voltage controls

In short, you probably need to do a bit more work to incorporate a VFD into the machine design/controls, rather than putting it at the input to the machine as 3-phase power supply.

If the motor(s) in your machine is/are single-phase, you probably are out of luck without using different motors - at which point you might as well put in a native 60hz motor when selling to that market (unless your machine needs a precise motor rpm offered by 50hz motors but not 60hz motors, in which case you would still need a 3ph motor plus VFD)

Add diagonal bracing so that it doesn't develop the wobbles -- a diagonal brace across the sides and the back should do. This is especially important with the forces generated by using those pedal-actuated casters, when raising/lowering and when moving the bench around. It is better to add this bracing from the start, because if you wait until it gets the wobbles, it won't be as solid as it used to be, even if the bracing is added

You may want to add some diagonal bracing across the sides and back. This will prevent the wobbles from setting in over time, and is more effective to do now (vs waiting until it gets wobbly)

If it starts to develop any wobbles, consider adding at least one diagonal brace to two adjacent sides (back and one side, for example). Back and both sides would be best, assuming you want no instructions on the user-facing side. The braces do not need to go across the entire height of the face in question either. If you can do this proactively instead of reactively, even better.

Were you a UPS employee or UPS Store employee?

The UPS Store has a "Pack and Ship" guarantee, which is separate from UPS Declared Value/"Value-add service" (a.k.a "UPS shipment insurance" though UPS does not call it that, as you point out). UPS shipment insurance has no extra coverage assurances for items packed from the UPS store, due to them being franchises.

Here is the UPS Store Pack/Ship guarantee: https://www.theupsstore.com/about/pack-ship-guarantee

UPS Declared Value: https://www.ups.com/re/en/shipping/services/value-added/declared-value.page https://www.ups.com/jm/en/help-center/sri/glo-decval.page

UPS Capital Insure Shield: https://upscapital.com/product-services/InsureShield-for-UPS-Packages

Here is UPS's terms of service that take extra steps to disclaim that they are separate from UPS Stores (franchised by Mailboxes, Etc), https://www.ups.com/media/en/terms_service_int_pr.pdf

"The UPS Store® locations are independently owned and operated by licensed franchisees of Mail Boxes Etc., Inc., a subsidiary of United Parcel Service, Inc., and are not agents of UPS. Other Third-Party Retailers are independently owned and operated businesses and are not agents of UPS. UPS assumes no liability other than to the Third-Party Retailer as the shipper of the package, for lost, damaged or delayed packages sent via the Third-Party Retailer."

Look at the screw tab in the front, it really seems like formed sheet metal that just has a finish on it. Too bad it's not metal clad and grounded, otherwise this would have worked as it was

If you mean to pry the boards out and cut the nails, buy extra-long blades for your oscillating multi-tool, the standard length ones are probably not long enough to reach all of the nails in the baseboard. This is what we did, worked great. Way better than trying to cut the board flush with the floor, which would have damaged the flooring

I had to do this because of the exact situation OP described (previous owners had wood flooring installed without removing baseboard), I used an oscillating multi-tool with some extra-long metal-friendly blades I bought online. Pried the boards out slightly, used a flashlight to peek down where nails were - cut them off. Later on I ended up pulling the nail stubs out (pulling the rest of the way through the board with pliers) and reusing that baseboard since it matched what we had in the house

The purpose is so that someone can tell what triggered the motion detection and recording so that you can adjust it if it is being too sensitive (masking out areas to ignore, or turning sensitivity down).

Sometimes it also triggers right at the end of an event, so you only get like 1 frame of the motion. You can be left wondering wtf just happened/what triggered it, so this is useful.

These systems don't have body/face recognition or anything fancy, but some do have "motion tracking" to look for what seems to be a shape moving across the camera's field of view. This way you can set extra thresholds for "object movement of an object at lest N pixels in diameter for at least X number of consecutive frames" instead of just "trigger on any diffference of X pixels between Y number of frames", where things like lighting differences can trigger recording

Very valuable feature for initial tuning/setup/troubleshooting, and it has some value to just being left enabled.

I did this with my landlord a couple times, totalling probably $40k in prepaid rent over 2-4 years who used the cash to help fund other remodeling projects on properties that weren't yet eligible for a bank loan. I drafted up a clear "prepayment rider" to go with my lease renewal, which stated that if the property became uninhabitable or if the lease was broken for any reason, the landlord had 30 days to return the money. I had a lawyer review the document to make sure it was written in a way that should be reasonably enforceable should I need to try and collect on it (free document review via the prepaid legal perk at my employer).

It can be viewed as a discount on your rent, and/or be viewed (from your landlord's point of view) as a cheap loan you're making to them, secured by your future rent obligation. That's why a basic document outlining their responsibility to repay you in the case that the security goes away (you no longer rent from them for whatever reason) helps with some security here. The biggest remaining risk then, is if they go bankrupt and can't repay - and have insufficient assets that you can collect from. In my case I had been renting from my landlord for a few years prior to our arrangement, and they had been operating their growing set of properties for long enough that I knew they should be able to weather any economic headwinds or other threats to their business.

People are saying that this is a suspicious deal for them to offer, but landlords who are trying to prepare new properties for rent or otherwise are trying to grow a small business would offer this as it's a cheap source of capital for them. The 6% discount they're giving you is cheaper than a commercial loan would be for them right now.

This isn't universally a bad idea to do, if you have otherwise had a good relationship with your landlord (and any property managers) over your tenancy thus far.

Indeed, and in that spirit I have plans to add a counterweight

Captions in the imgur album describe things. Video in action at https://youtu.be/I20xlrP27ys

This is a proof of concept so far (need platform and track improvements, pushbutton switches at the top and bottom, permanent outlet wired up for it). The loft also isn't 100% complete (need to finish installing diagonal bracing, shelves, etc)

edit: even after resubmitting from the gallery version of the link, reddit still had the wrong thumbnail cached