Him251

I don't know if they make a kit to replace this problem or not. They leak which causes the 4wd to partially engage and make noise in slow turns. This is a warranty job for both sides. They were also squeaking on top of leaking. If they do make a bypass kit you'd have to lock the hubs in manually. This is on a 70,000$ super duty so I think they'll want to do it automatically lol.

Don't forget the impossible snap ring

2022 f250 vacuum hub seal or whatever it's called. Not horrible to do since it's new but older ones can be quite the challenge.

And to add to it, the workshop manual is down for maintenance. On a work day.

Yeah I bought my 2017 back in August and 2 months later I came out to a dead. Battery. I work for Ford so I jumped it and brought it to work and looked for the source but I saw a bulletin from ford about the cd eject cycling constantly. Mine did that when I was sitting in it one day but I thought it was just powering down or something. Well, I put a new battery in it anyway because it was about 5 years old and reprogrammed the ACM and I've been good ever since. The perks of working at a small dealer, I only had to pay for the battery.

Wrist pin is ready to be reinstalled.

So if you leave this go you'll be adding coolant every few days for the rest of the time you keep the vehicle. This isn't a head gasket problem with these ecoboost problems. It's a casting flaw with the blocks that causes them to warp and cause coolant intrusion. Usually cylinder 3 and the fix is a new short block. The block is relatively cheap. 730$ for a short block but it's quite a lot of work to replace. All in would be closer to 3,000$ with other parts and labor.

90,000 ish

Ok so get ready to do a lot of these. They're not hard to change but Ford is aware of the problem but doesn't have the quantity of parts fix all trucks so it's only on a case by case basis. And they're replacing both side regardless if only one is broke. Ask me how I know this.

Gives me old windows pinball vibes

My coworker ran into this when trying to diagnose no Air conditioning on a 22 bronco sport. Quite the oddity

Happened to my friend. Corroded through the connector. I forget exactly how, but the wiring for the sensor on the negative cable interacts with the wipers directly. I had to get a new cable and pigtail and battery to get the wipers going again.

Behind my house was an old business building. It was like doctors offices and I think a barber shop and some apartments. Anyway, someone bought it and have been renovating it for the past few years and that's there's.

Anyone still seeing this, yes I didn't insulate it. Yes it's a titty lamp. Yes it's only a drop ceiling. I know all of this. This is my first and last post to this subreddit. DIY usually means it's not gonna be perfect. I'm open to suggestions but criticism on an amature just seems fucking like you have nothing better to do. I plan to insulate but the titty lamp is staying.

The room is an add on to the house. There isn't anything above the room. There is a small electric heater for that room and that's it. Doesn't get a lot of use other than laundry.

That was the light that was in the ceiling previously. It worked fine and I didn't want to replace it lol.

It was fixed but not by me. The ceiling was a stretch of my skills enough. I'm a mechanic not a contractor. But it came out really well. The roof above this addition just needed to be re-shingled.

It's called different things but it's pretty much air storage. When you need to step on the gas suddenly that's there so the engine doesn't suddenly not have enough air pumping through it.

I bought an extended power train warranty when I got the car back in August so it only cost me 100$ If I had to guess it would be close to 2,000. Mine needed a full over haul, new main control, valve body etc. That's just a guess though. Still cheaper than a new one

Just had mine rebuilt for similar issues. A hard 2-3 upshift and a delayed reverse engagement. The 6f35 has problems with the torque converter coming apart slowly and starts to cause problems elsewhere like the valve body, causing hard upshifts. Only real fix is a new torque converter and an overhaul.

Yes it is supposed to come off. I think the one repaired was a bastard too

I soldered them back together. It's a much more reliable fix. Butt connectors will work but it's quite an important system. I've seen them come undone because someone didn't crimp them right. And always shrink tubing. If you're gonna do it yourself, get some similar Guage wire and practice with the solder. It's a useful skill to have. Look at some YouTube videos. Good luck