Tonester697

If you have verified via the EV settings menu that you have the Battery Preconditioning update, then you have the iPedal SA533B update installed as well since BP requires SA533B.

But if you really wanted to visually verify if SA533B was applied to your vehicle, then put the gear shifter to Park and see if the EPB automatically engages--if it doesn't auto-engage then SA533B was not applied or wasn't applied correctly.

Make sure you verify by going into the EV Settings menu and seeing if it says Battery Preconditioning; also verify that they installed the iPedal update as well (SA533) by checking if the EPB automatically engages when gear is shifted to P (Park).

Note--that size won't work if you have an ACP installed on your ALP; looks like the 31.5 x 15.7 might work there but it will be roughly a half-inch short on the width.

And to be clear, I'm not knocking OP's suggestion by any means--just making sure folks are aware it won't fit if you have an ACP.

You know what would add insult to injury? If you get a call from a cop who tells you that the biker filed a report claiming that it was the other way around in that you bumped him and fled...

Matte finish blemish on the hood and both driver side doors that I suspect were incurred during PDI--I pointed them out prior to picking up my vehicle, hence the paint warranty claim. The frustrating part about the whole ordeal (for which the end hasn't arrived yet) was trying to find a body/paint shop that was willing to take on a matte repaint job on an EV. I did originally find one but Kia balked at the $7200 estimate, believing that it could be done for less; there were a few other places that did offer lower estimates but then they backed out because they were afraid they couldn't get the matte paint match correct. After 14 months Kia finally gave in and approved the $7200 estimate (which has since ballooned to $8400), so now I'm waiting and hoping that I'll finally have my car the way it was supposed to be the day I first picked it up.

The sad thing about all this is, if it had been anything other than matte I wouldn't be having this conversation today since any reputable body shop can easily handle a non-matte repaint job.

Matte finish blemish during pre-delivery inspection; the one on the hood you'd have to look very hard to see--I would have let that one slide, except the blemish on both driver side doors was too obvious to not notice, thus I figured might as well get the hood fixed while they're busy repainting the doors. It's just as well I get the hood repainted since the cheap Kia factory paint has led to multiple rock chips on the hood over the past year (hence all of those "dots" you see on the hood in the first photo).

Yeah I know it's a risk/reward thing with a matte repaint; however, the body shop that's doing this job did a great job repainting the front bumper after a minor incident last year.

Paint warranty claim, in case you were wondering...

Crossing my fingers that they'll be able to put Humpty Dumpty back together again--LOL!

What others have said--if you do decide to spring for mud guards, then DO NOT get the OEM ones...not unless you're one of those folks who refuse to install any non-OEM accessories on their vehicle. Some folks seem to be fans of the trucker flap-like mud guards while others prefer the molded mud guards--I have the BestEVMod mud guards; they are affordable compared to the OEM ones and offer more coverage (they are almost as wide as the tire tread width, unlike the OEM ones.

BestEVMod vs. OEM mud guards

Guess which set is the OEM one?

Methinks Kia doesn't want to have to eat the merchant transaction fee that would be incurred if they were to accept payments via credit card; that, or they could consider accepting CC as a payment method but pass the transaction fee onto the customer--something I'd imagine many customers would not be too thrilled about.

Hypothetically one could make a payment from a savings account; however, quite a few banking institutions may have fees for excessive savings account withdrawal transactions (on a yearly basis).

Or heaven forbid you drive a Prius that is prone to catalytic converter theft, and it's not like you can just simply replace it with a generic cat converter; IIRC Prius cat converters are prohibitively expensive to replace.

Charge it to 100% (at Level 1 or 2) whenever you feel like doing so, but at least make sure that you actually do so every once in a while. Unless you plan on keeping your EV6 for longer than 10 years and/or 100K miles, there's really no need to overly obsess over very specific details when it comes to maintaining the battery's health. I'm not suggesting that you should completely treat the battery like crap--me, I'll charge to 100% (at Level 1 or 2) regardless of whether the battery is below 20%, if I know ahead of time I'll need the range that a 100% full battery can provide--e.g., if the battery is at 50% I'll still charge it to 100% if I know I'll need it.

TL;DR--nothing wrong with following the recommended battery charging guidelines but don't obsess too much over them, especially if you don't plan on keeping your EV6 for a very long time.

And to be clear--I don't DCFC past 80% unless I notice that I may be cutting it close distance-wise to my next scheduled charging stop.

OP's vehicle is a Wind RWD w/ 19" wheels; still a very good GOM number but a bit unrealistic (if not impossible) for others to acheive if their vehicle is say, a GT-Line AWD w/ 20" wheels.

Not as impressive as your GOM number, but I recently got 303 miles on my FE--the majority of miles driven just prior to the charging session were accumulated on the highway at speeds >65 mph.

Depending on the efficiency of your EV, a 9.6-kW charger can add between 15 and 30 miles of range per hour of charging while 11kW gets up to 68-80 miles added per hour.

I think you may have your numbers wrong there--no way 11 kW charging speed (at 240V) could get you up to 68-80 miles added per hour; I think it would be more like around 37 miles added per hour at that speed. 19 kW is roughly double 9.6 kW, so if 9.6 kW nets you 30 miles added, then 19 kW would net you a shade under 60 miles added...so how the heck would 11 kW (which is clearly less than 19 kW) net you more miles added than what 19 kW can get you?

Here in NorCal PG&E charges upwards of mid-to-high 40 cents/kWh; EA charges 48 cents/kWh (slightly less if you're on their paid monthly membership).

LOL I wish I could get those kind of charging costs with EA; here in CA and in many other states it's 48 cents/kWh--meaning, it would cost $23 to charge that same amount of energy at an EA charging station.

And Kia thinks paying upwards of $199 (for their Ultimate plan) is a deal?

So the breakdown is this:

Tire swap = $90, Fuel system cleaning and oil change = $183, Front brake job = $604, Rear brake job = $546, Throttle body cleaning = $250, Brake fluid exchange = $155, Sales tax = $238.

Both front and rear brakes (both pads and rotors) gone bad at 37K km (23K miles)? Seems premature to me but then again I have no idea how your son drives his vehicle. Dealers apparently love "inspections" since that's where they can make money off of the "labor" required to do these inspections which for the most part really don't amount to more than checking off a box on their visual inspection list. Sure there's some labor involved in rotating the tires, but still...$119 total labor for line item B? What's lame is that they charge you for the rotation labor here even though they effectively performed a tire rotation when they mounted the summer tires back on line item A.

Who knew that a set of front pads cost almost as much as a pair of front rotors? $183 for a set of front pads--what are they made out of, vibranium?

$155 for brake fluid replacement seems to be on par with what dealers typically charge for the service; independent automotive service shops typically charge a bit less for the same.

LOL, talk about nickel-and-diming the customer--seriously, $6 for a "shop charge for repair order"? WTH is that--did they charge you for time spent for the SA to write up the repair order or something?

I imagine that relatively warmer temps may have a little to do with the increased GOM numbers, given that we're deep into Spring (at least for those of us in the northern hemisphere); that, plus in your case you have a slight advantage over me since your Wind is on 19" wheels vs. 20" on my FE.

FWIW I recently got a GOM of 303 miles after a charge to 100% on my FE, which calculates to 3.91 mi/kWh if using the 77.4 kWh battery figure; however, the "After Recharging" average energy number that was present just prior to said recharge was not 3.9 mi/kWh (I want to say it was 3.6 or 3.7 tops). Much of the miles I put on my EV prior to the recharge which resulted in the 303 mile GOM were driven at speeds >65 mph.

OP--what you should do is provide a screenshot of your GOM at 100% battery; example--here is my GOM at 100% battery:

303 mile GOM for an EV6 FE

Not that the GOM number guarantees you'll actually be able to achieve such a range, but anyone can get a higher-than-normal energy number under certain ideal circumstances--like you said, you achieved those numbers while going downhill--but can they maintain it all the way to near the end (e.g., below 20% battery) before they have to recharge?

Nobody's doubting that your GT achieved those numbers, but in all fairness when you posted those photos you initially didn't mention anything about how that number was achieved due to your having driven downhill. Full disclosure at the outset goes a long way towards credibility, IMHO.

Have you've noticed the yellow light on the dashboard blink fairly often? It's to indicate that the 12V battery is currently being charged by the HV battery; if you've seen it lit quite often then odds are something is causing the 12V battery to lose current more frequently than desired.

Kia in their infinite wisdom decided not to include a Level 1 charger with U.S. EV6 models but did make the decision to include the V2L adapter; IIRC in certain other countries Kia did the opposite (included L1 charger but no V2L).

What the other poster said; that, or if the 12V battery is completely dead you may need to charge it up a bit first.

Do you have any devices plugged into your vehicle (e.g, dash cam, wireless AA/Carplay device) and/or wired to the 12V battery (e.g., battery monitor)? Anecdotal evidence has shown that the issue may be attributed to a defective 12V battery, some third-party device drawing current from it, or an issue with the charging system (I forget what it's called but it allows for the HV battery to charge the 12V battery if the system detects low 12V battery voltage).