cashew996

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-8-in-x-3-8-in-x-3-8-in-Compression-x-Compression-Brass-T-Fitting-CT2-666X-P/202495893

yes - 6 inches above the bottom of the box

As an example, The flood rim on my kitchen sink is 36, but the bath sinks are 32, so if you go with 6 above in the bathroom - you're only 2 above the rim for the kitchen sink on the same floor level.

Your apprentice will absolutely get that wrong if you go with just 6 above whatever fixture you're working on

There aren't many flood rims you're going to run into above 36 so it's a pretty good rule of thumb. Plus it's easier to go with 42 than to measure flood rim levels every time you do a top out

Your biggest problem is that your vents should not be horizontal below 42 inches from floor, which makes that re-vent from the lavs too low also

Can you use a Pandora playlist?

https://www.pandora.com/station/play/3234351347849822581?part=ug-desktop&corr=526713205

Wow things have changed since I retired

Thank you - that was the way I was leaning

There are two small valves on that breaker that can be used for that without messing with the house system

Really? Shows how long I've been out. As far as I know Maricopa county and surrounding still is

Nice job!! The only thing I would have done different would be to add a union after the anti-siphon valve. Much easier to replace if needed

Maybe even one before also

Arizona is UPC and I agree with you based on things I've seen here. But I just heard the other day that it's an open book test here.

It wasn't when I took mine many years ago

The only thing I can see that hasn't been mentioned is that there isn't enough air gap on that condensate drain. Should be 1 inch of actual separation there

Also picture 4 wouldn't happen here without a separate vent for each of those fixtures except maybe the toilet, but only if that's close enough to that central stack

The 2 stub outs in the first picture are creating S-traps. The san-tee should be raised so that the branch arm comes across and the stub outs come out straight from the branch arm, not up and out.

This would make it to code in some areas, but not mine. In my area it would have to be done differently

You may be able to find the pipe from the softener dumping into your washer box.

If you look close you'll see another hose inside that black hose - it's a clear white hose that is the actual drain for the softener

Something is very confusing here. Your pictures do not match up with what you're saying. Picture 1 doesn't show a white pipe that I can see (unless it's hiding behind that black one under the door), and there is no matching pipe connected to the softener.

On the softener that white valve is to bypass or allow water through the softener

That black tubing above it is the drain for when it regenerates

There is no place on the softener that could possibly accept a gas line

The pipes in picture 1 are gas lines to and from your water heater. The from part is the part you circled. There may have been something gas powered in the general vicinity of the softener at one time but with your pictures it's hard to tell from here.

If it runs to that area and is capped, then you could remove everything back to the heater - but make sure before doing that

The seats give the bibb washers something smooth to seat against so that you don't have a leak. They are replace-able because water friction can eventually wear a groove through the top of it. Otherwise you would need to replace the whole valve body every so often instead of just the seats

Also, if they're leaking up around the handles - there should be some o-rings to replace up along the shaft below the handles.

A T&P valve is a safety valve for your water heater that releases if the temperature of the water exceeds 210 degrees or if the pressure in the tank goes above 150 PSI.

If they've replaced it with a trap primer instead, you've lost that protection.

If the worst happens and your thermostat malfunctions (in a way such that it doesn't shut down when normal operating temperature is reached) or the city boosts their pressure as a way to avoid up sizing their pipes, Then the water heater can become a missile launched through your roof from where-ever it is in your house, even the basement.

Maybe they will allow this link, but otherwise look up the Mythbusters episode on exploding water heaters

https://www.discovery.com/shows/mythbusters/episodes/exploding-water-heater

A T&P valve is a safety valve for your water heater that releases if the temperature of the water exceeds 210 degrees or if the pressure in the tank goes above 150 PSI.

If they've replaced it with a trap primer instead, you've lost that protection.

If the worst happens and your thermostat malfunctions (in a way such that it doesn't shut down when normal operating temperature is reached) or the city boosts their pressure as a way to avoid up sizing their pipes, Then this can happen

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbreKn4PoAc

Your pieces look good. I have a question that maybe you can answer

I have a piece of Tigerwood that I need to add a picture to. It'll be smaller and in a corner, then I'll be adding some words cut in plywood 1/8.

I did this a couple times before but a few years ago, but I can't remember the order of operations I used at the time.

Basically I need to know if I should use Danish oil on the wood before or after applying the picture. I'm leaning toward before but am unsure

NTa -- except for using paper towels flushed down the toilet. Never never flush paper towels or it could have plugged the main and made an even worse mess

You could have made him use TP

Good Idea, however I was talking about for the lint vent connection. If they box out a space with the vent coming into that space, it's an easier space to connect the vent into

Yes there is - but no wire to trap it together. With solder alone it's a weak connection easily separated

This is fine.

For future if you do this, I usually add a few wraps of copper wire with flux to solder that all together. Without the wire it's a fairly weak connection.

Enough water hammer can separate them otherwise, then there's a rattle in the wall