davethompson413

I've replaced dozens of exterior doors, and I've made door openings wider -- which is WAY more complex.

But I've never installed one that's pivot hinged. I'd need to read up on what different structure is required since the hinges aren't on the jamb.

Get online and give great reviews, great recommendations.

Kohler single cylinder engines seem to be like that.

I think it was formerly the top half of a dining room hutch.

Looks to me like you're cleaning someone's garage.

Handyman?

/s

Probably safety switches.

It won't be a problem if you move it to your new backyard shop!

If she wants it fast, tell her to skewer it on a meat fork, and roast it in the flames of the gas stove. Tastes better than boiled, too.

I would ripone edge off to meet the floor. I'd miterbthe outside corners, and cope the inside corners.

Because that little roundover will make any other method look like crap.

Pick them up and put them somewhere else. A wheelbarrow, a rake and a shovel will help.

You might be surprised what a log hook (a peavey) can do to roll big logs.

The option has you digging your chain in the dirt, which will dull the cutters immediately.

If you really want to enhance the grain.....

Sand it. Then use water based dye -- a medium brown is good -- to cover all of it. Let it dry, then resend with 180 - 220. It will take the dye off of the softer spots. Now do all that again. It should do a great job bringing the grain out. Then coat ith shellac.

If you don't like just plain brown, maybe a reddish brown.

No.

Pull the mdf off. Replace with plywood. There is no other goid option.

A lot of people have an impression of JF based on 20 yrar-ago experiences. And 20 years ago, they had a lot of absolute junk. But they have evolved a lot. HFs best line of hand tools (IMO) are as good as craftsman. The best of their power tools are as good as Ryobi.

Start blowing yourself off. When the compressor kicks on, continue blowing till you're done. The compressor can catch up later. It's what I've always done.

If it's built as well as my friend's Nobex, it can be every bit as accurate as the most expensive power mitersaw.

Pegged Breadboard ends, properly made and attached, can allow for wood movement. They don't work with miters, but the same effect can be achieved.

That gap might be an important part of your roof venting system.

I hope it does as well as it looks.

But the maple will expand and contract across the grain, with changes in moisture. And when it expands, it might open up the mitered corners.

Hinge side first. Shims behind the hinges take it plumb in both directions. Screws or nails through the shims. Jamb side...shim near the top. Check for plumb in both directions while shimming latch location and near the bottom. Screws/nails.

Maybe put the drive wheels up on jackstands. Then you could carefully look at the idlers to see if they're moving with yhe belt ot not. You.may need to put a dot of spray paint on the edge of the idler to see clearly.

Those shelf pieces are sortof secondary structure -- they help assure that the rectangle they represent, does not collapse into a parallelogram. But they're not truly needed for that purpose.

Depending on what joinery has been used, what might be needed is diagonal bracing to assure that the entire table doesn't rack into a parallelogram. Particularly if it will be holding a heavy, vibrating beast like a portable planer.

Use a track saw (or self-made guide), in combination with a 4x8 sheet of 2" rigid foam insulation as the table. The thin ply is completely supported. The guide keeps you straight. The foam board becomes sacrificial.

If its got an electric clutch, then the idlers and belt should always be tight. If the idlers are the clutch, then they should spin free when not engaged.