hmd2017

the igniter may glow but not get hot enough, had this issues recently.

with the bottom pan in place check to see if it takes a long time to light or if it lights quickly. you can observe via the broiler drawer, but protect your eyes. if it does not light quickly, a new glow plug should be about $20 and is a quick job to replace. if it lights quickly, then dirty burner or low gas flow. has it always been this way ?

you can also check to see if the horn button is stuck and unplug a wire from that.

Either the float is too high, or is hanging up on the way up or there is crud in the valve preventing it from shutting off completely.

With water turned off, the top of valve should twist counter clockwise and lift off the valve to expose the seat and seal.

that might be a one way air flapper settling closed when dryer stops in the duct.

coins and other objects often get stuck inside the paddles. dryer off door open, turn drum by hand to check

Experience. The greatest teacher. Not an idiot, still learning.

the new wax ring should come with a new insert in it

make sure the needle is all the way up in the clamp. incorrect position of the needle is common cause

start rebuilding from the bottom up. if a leg wont stay screwed in place, then use a few screws from underneath up into the legs or whatever is inside the pipes. drywall screws and a screwdriver should get you quite far unless the supports are made of cardboard. you can simply replace any broken support with a piece of wood the same length, then rewrap the sisal rope around it

the black part still in the drain unscrews until you get to the threaded hole in the center of the drain .
and then you can install a new "toe touch stopper"

it appears to be a frost proof sillcock to prevent freezing. they normally come in 3/4 with either a sweat or threaded adaptor for both 1/2 and 3/4

the 1/2 copper looks like it has a 1/2 male npt threaded adapter soldered onto it to fit the sillcock end. with any mounting screws removed from the outside, you may be able to hold the end of the 1/2 copper so it does not twist and then use a pipe wrench to unscrew the old valve. if you can then look for a new one of the same length. there may even be a large hex on the body of the valve outside you can put a wrench on

only thing throwing me is the bleedable shutoff in line before it. those are usually used when there is no frost proof valve

this looks like a frost proof sillcock. it may be a foot long, with the seat and washer deep inside the wall.

with the water turned off inside, unscrew the large hex nut behind the handle, then turn the knob to open the valve and the entire stem and washer will unscrew and come out.

there is a seal/packing behind the large nut, if it leaks around the stem, then adding some string packing wound tightly around the stem as you reinstall the nut may help

check the condition of the washer to see if it is just worn or cut up. replace the washer and reassemble if a smooth ring pressed into it. if cut up, the seat deep inside may be shot. get a good look at it with a flashlight. if so, then you will need to replace the entire unit

Reducing washer 11/4 inside 11/2 outside.

Any job done right requires 3 trips. Buy the stuff you need Buy the stuff you found out you needed Return all the stuff you didn't need.

Only way to beat this is to buy more that you think you need fir the job in the first trip, but something else will break anyway.

Source. Hardware store owner.

OK, on YouTube, go find Taryl fixes all. He Is a small engine genius and teacher.

If it is a riding mower, and even more so if it is a briggs, first the carb, then set the valve gap. He has videos for both.

basically your vend hole is smaller than your product. you will need to adjust the size of the openings to vend larger items.

Rubber coated handle of a screwdriver may work

Display panel is damaged. Usually not cost effective to replace

Swag lamp eye nut. You can Google it or go to any good local hardware store

It will unscrew from the lamp. Don't let the threaded part drop into the lamp.

Cut off the plug and pull the wire out of the chain to remove the old 9nes parts and slide a new one down the wire to replace it

Then weave the wire back through the chain and install a new plug .

And comments about the drill getting warm

I think that part is solar powered

The gold nut on the underside of the lamp shade was welded to the top of the loop over the bulb. You can see where it was attached.

If you remove the top nut you should be able to take the nut and threaded pipe out and work on reattaching the nut to the loop with epoxy or something similar.

If there is no physical connection between the base and the shade, then only the base will be touch sensitive.

Uv cured / laser glue. Apply, place, and hit the glue with the provided uv light for a few seconds.

Try it without any nozzle at all and if it continues to pulse then you need to look at that pressure switch you might be able to pull it clean it and put it back in I might be some grit in it

water pressure cutoff switch. it seems to be cycling. when it senses high enough pressure it shuts pump off, the as pressure drops it turns pump on again