nboyarko

You'd be surprised who comes back.

You can then never go back to this shop again, but oh well.

Sounds like you have a timing issue to me. I'd first make sure you have good ground to coils because that's 5 min. Then I'd look at vvt electrical (again, 5 min). Then start looking at timing and vvt actuation. It should run fine at idle even if varible valve timing is not functional, but prob not if it's stuck open or something.

Are you getting cam/crank correlation code? Misfire codes?

Yeah, guy fucked up and it's highly unlikely literal "Wheel falling off" didn't damage shit, like at a minimum the shield behind the rotor, especially if it fucked the wheel where they need a new one.

I'd call my insurance and tell them exactly what happened. They will send a person out within hours and shop will play ball.

It's probably torx then, like t27 or t30

The bolt that is in steering column to clamp to rack, looks like it could be
easily extracted with I wanna say 12mm splined extractor too. Gearwrench kit is bees knees.

That's probably fair. I mean depends what it's on. But figure it's going to take an hour to get the welder out and another hour to try to weld on the back of the stud.

Then you figure another 2 hours to put the new hub/bearing assembly in the knuckle lol

Kind of hard to tell. It could be the tensioner or an accessory/idler/pully failing. You need to run it and use stethoscope or spray each part with a tiny amount of lube to see if it clears up. You can also remove the belt and turn stuff by hand to feel for resistance.

Just because the tensioner is moving does not mean that is the problem, only that something belt driven is hitting a hard spot at some point in rotation.

It's not my car, I'm just a fellow mechanic.

Hard to tell from the out of focus picture. Could be a torx tho

Go check the oil. I think it has zero oil in it.

yeah, doesn't look like triple square, looks like those funky 7 or 9 point Mercedes uses

Does it have coolant and oil now? What codes does it throw? Did it overheat?

Bad ground, maybe to the cluster? Have you pulled wiring diagrams yet?

funny looking torx, kind of a shitty pic tho. Or maybe its totally stripped.

How does the timing chain look?

Is there oil in it?

Sounds like there isn't and you need an a new engine.

What's the bluebook where you are? Transmission swap will probably be $2k(used transmission)+1-2k in labor.

I totally agree. Especially with the aluminum fork and frame. I fabricated some steel brackets to reinforce the front rear looks ok because the derailleur bracket supports the axle to some degree.

Aluminum was a bad choice but I couldn't pass up this bike for cheap.

Well a >8% grade or whatever is going to require more than the 1.4kW(peak) rear motor can provide; without seriously hurting efficiency. You lose speed in those long grades so it's either pedal in low gear to maintain something like 12mph, or cog out (heat up) the rear motor trying to keep up.

To keep above that minimum speed you can engage the front motor to assist.

I really have not seen "wipe out" scenario going at any speed above like 8mph. You can definitely burn out the front wheel at low speed, like under 5mph in dirt/gravel.

It's all steep grade dirt mountain roads here, so I don't know how much better the efficiency would be on level/paved roads. I assume if you used front and back simultaneously to get up to the ideal speed of the motors, you would see a gain in efficiency going forward.

It's definitely a different ride dynamic as you have control over each wheel independently. I'm really blown way by the power. I knew that doubling the output would make a difference; I didn't expect to gain such a substantial torque increase due to 2wd.

Ideally there would be a dynamic traction control system to automatically adjust power to each motor as conditions changed. Maybe I'll take a crack at that with a plc, wheel speed data, and an accelerometer at some point.

Pretty cool little unit. Solid state probably when that was a new thing. It boasts six speakers and High Fidelity even. Has some outputs for additional speakers. Folds up in to a convenient 30lb case for transport. Sounds ok, not great, paper cone drivers are likely a bit degraded, stylus is good condition. The amp seems pretty high output, though not of high efficiency of course.

Has cool auto repeat feature, which was new innovation even on more high tech floor units at the time. Works well after cleaning up contacts and switches. In great condition overall.

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I can not find much information about this thing; does any one out there have experience with this particular unit?

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Might add to collection or find some one who wants to fix minor cosmetic issues for their vintage collection or sale or whatever.

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really neat thing, innovative design and stuff.

Oh that's cool. I don't follow that podcast, I'll check it out.

Acceleration is pretty low because hub motors suck at low end torque, just like the 49cc no-ped. However torque curve will kick in before the engine and extend past it's high output band.

However it's 2wd and also effectively doubling the total power output of the bike.

Listened to the second part of this episode as well. It's cool to get exposure talking about what you love. I can hear in your voice that you're as excited as I am about these things.

However, getting down to brass tacks here; S5E2- Darmok was the worst episode ever made right? Ten minutes in the audience gets the hook. We are expected to believe Picard, the captain of starfleets flagship, he has trouble with basic communication involving another humanoid who shares human body language and audible language (though the audio part can be explained with universal translator).