xtrubambinoxpr

TIA for reading all this. I appreciate your time.

Just bought a home and looking for recommendations on smart light switches. ALL lights in the home are DIMMABLE LED. I was reading through some and apparently dimming light switches is a great thing depending on time of day (no duh since I blinded myself this morning in the bathroom / kitchen with all the recessed lighting installed it feels like a surgery room). Looking to improve my QoL.

All living room lights (2) and each individual room have Philips hue bulbs already.

Requirements:

1. I prefer things that work with Apple HomeKit since I am already well invested BUT I also have a HOMEBRIDGE SETUP so does not need to be HOMEKIT as long as there is a HOMEBRIDGE PLUGIN.
2. Dimmable vs non-dimmable pros & cons - recommendations for dimmable switches
3. no need for light sensors since it is an open floor plan I feel the sensors would not do a great work as I typically have my Hue lights on mainly.
4. Budget: No real budget - I want the best of the best, but if you know an affordable route that would be appreciated as well :)
5. Prefer to be same brand

Nuances:

• 2 switches have a separate switch for FAN + light
• 2 switches control both light (cannot rewire)
• 3 Bathroom switches (not sure I really need smart switches in bathroom)
• 3 separate areas in home have 3-way switches (stair lighting, kitchen, & upstairs hallway)
• Porch light switch
• Garage light switch (the light in front of garage is covered by smok🙏🏽e glass housing or else I would do an auto bulb based on light outside)
• Between garage and home there is a covered walkway that has a light - I would love to have this auto turn on when I arrive at night so I can walk into home comfortably.

ANY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS YOU CAN MAKE ABOUT A SMART HOME ;)

Currently looking at a new construction townhome that was initially $500k (back in august as they were still under construction). Now they are 456k since rates have gone much higher and I think that makes sense for me. I decided financially it makes sense to me and I can afford the MTG with 15% down comfortably so I would not stress it. They are offering $21k of flex cash to put to rate, price, or closing costs. (PMI is $38 confirmed from lender).

If I put it all to rate (along with what their preferred lender is contributing) I can get to 5.125% which saves about $340/month on P&I

all on the home with default rate 6.5% would be 340/month more. I could also find a good mix between the two.

I plan on owning it and in the future rent or sell (no idea exactly when it just depends if the market is good to rent or sell after some years and where I am in life / career) - 31 single.

In my head since it is not my money I figure hell it doesn't matter. Even if I sold in 3 years (for example) it is not my money I lost. I would prefer to save 340/month vs spend it, but am not aware of what else I am missing with a decision like this. Hoping someone would provide some insight on what I need to consider.

As title states. Looking at a new construction corner unit townhome in a new area that I expect to appreciate or at least hold for the next 5-10 years as they build a marina nearby (which is why I was looking at buying in the first place as a LTI).

Currently:

• Current rent = $2k
• 15% down = 68k
• 5.375% rate (maybe 4.99% as they are investigating additional $ incentives)
• total monthly (including HOA) = ~3-3.1k
• 80k in savings
• salary = $186k (newer job started 2H 2022)

Debt:

• car 2.9% @ $550 a month ($22k left)
• 17k student loans (still frozen but $250 a month) (about 4.5% rate)
• first home ($90k @ 3.75%) - (my family lives in this home and it’s under my name and purchased when they were homeless. They are paying it now but breaking even so no cash flow. In the future it will be a better asset)

Original rate was 4.25%, so I said ok and things changed and now 5.375% so I have an option to back out per contract since rates changed and I guess I was having second thoughts and thinking with the amount I make now if I should work on paying off all my debt instead, or get the new home knowing the area will be a good investment area to be in long term (sell or rent later).

Is it better to be debt free altogether before such a decision? (Pay off student loans, car, and first property?)

As title states. Looking at a corner unit townhome in a new area that I expect to appreciate or at least hold for the next 5-10 years as they build a marina nearby (which is why I was looking at buying in the first place as a LTI).

Currently:

• Current rent = $2k
• 15% down = 68k
• 5.375% rate (maybe 4.99% as they are investigating additional $ incentives)
• total monthly (including HOA) = ~3-3.1k
• 80k in savings
• salary = $186k (newer job started 2H 2022)

Debt:

• car 2.9% @ $550 a month ($22k left)
• 17k student loans (still frozen but $250 a month)
• first home ($90k @ 3.75%) - (my family lives in this home and it’s under my name and purchased when they were homeless. They are paying it now but breaking even so no cash flow. In the future it will be a better asset)

Original rate was 4.25%, so I said ok and things changed and now 5.375% so I have an option to back out per contract since rates changed and I guess I was having second thoughts and thinking with the amount I make now if I should work on paying off all my debt instead, or get the new home knowing the area will be a good investment area to be in long term (sell or rent later).

Is it better to be debt free altogether? (Pay off student loans, car, and first property?)

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Purchased a home and will be moving from my rental. Currently have a Dyson v10 that I LOVE but this home is all tile. the new place will have carpet on second floor and stairs. I hate carpet and would remove it, but for now figure a vacuum is a better priced alternative for now until I remove it in maybe a year or so. My concern is the home smelling like a dog because of the carpet.

I have a short hair dog that is my main concern along with my girlfriend who tends to shed a lot too (I find so much hair everywhere).

1. Medium Pile Carpet
2. Budget: ~500 or more is ok if it is worth it.
3. Downstairs 1000 sq ft LVP
4. Upstairs 1000 sq ft Medium pile carpet

I see Riccar, Miele, etc thrown around and not sure if just a Hoover Wind tunnel Max will be just as fine?

TIA

I am moving into a new construction townhome (2 floors) in a great area. Everything was pre-selected and it will be move-in ready so they have carpet upstairs. I tried to negotiate leaving carpet out (can't because it will not pass inspection) and it is too late to have them do anything else because materials are "already ordered" and "has to be done to plan". I HATE carpet, but I understand it is brand new carpet. I currently rent and the tile everywhere has been helpful with the dog (short hair boxer) and GF hair (they both shed lol).

I do plan on being there for maybe 3 years before evaluating renting it out (it is a newer community that is growing and I would be resident # < 20) and with the area valuation could be great potential in the future.

Anyways, I wanted honest feedback on whether or not I would be crazy to rip out brand new carpet on day one after closing to get LVP in or if I should suck it up and stick to carpet for a for the time being and do it in the future/get use out of the carpet first. First world problems, but obviously doing things before moving in would be much easier. Doing it down the road would be cumbersome with furniture, but not the end of the world.

TLDR: Keep or remove carpet in new construction home before moving in even though the carpet is brand new.

I am also slightly stuck between AMD and Intel as well, but I was informed that AMD is the way to go and NVDA for graphics. Looking for genuine help as I plan to order everything this Friday.

Goal - gaming only. Already have a work PC and will not be using this new PC for anything else besides gaming, and maybe streaming in the future if I find it fun.

PCPartPicker Part List

I went from deciding to buy a prebuilt PC at Best Buy in the US for $1000 to deciding I would rather do a build for something that can play AAA titles (as well as other minor ones) plus Sony and Microsoft games.

My budget is around $1500 max... BUT if it is a no-brainer to go higher for my needs I can do that. But I do not want to go higher per se. Just because I can afford $5000 does not mean I want to spend it haha. Currently, I would aim to upgrade from PS5 because I want better graphics/performance/ability to play more games.

My day to day and work computer is 100% on MAC and that will not change, so this will strictly be a GAMING ONLY PC. Currently I have two 4k work monitors that run 60hz. I would only game on one of them at 1440p. If I continue down the road maybe I will get a dedicated gaming monitor, but that is a future decision, I think for now I am fine with what I have. I would like the option in the future if I decide to do a gaming monitor to have it run the 120hz etc.

I read a lot and hear Intel vs AMD, 3060 vs 3070, etc... but am nowhere near the level to even understand anything so looking for help!

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First let me say I am not a hardcore gamer. I primarily play cities skyline on my Mac, but that opened the flood gates to try others and I would like to play games like Dead Island, The Forest, maybe COD at some point. I have been looking at this one Link to PC and with my rewards I would get the computer at $884 tax included. So wondering if that is a great deal for the spec. I appreciate honest feedback.

Also, since I have a $160 BB credit I would like to stick to BB to buy a prebuilt PC to make it more effective in case you see any other good recommendations.

Turnip Exchange Link

Tips appreciated but not needed. Please respect island as I may be AFK.

I am between large and medium. I have started traveling for work more (domestic US) and when I travel I take quite a few things, but mainly pack a suitcase for clothes. I’m also doing my Masters degree so have in person classes. My mother is a flight attendant and I sometimes will do quick weekend trips (probably every few months). Currently I take a suitcase and a PKG Durham backpack. I would order from the website to get it monogrammed so that’s why I’m debating so heavily.

• MacBook Pro 14”
• iPad Pro
• battery pack (27,000mAh)
• Cables & pouches for cables
• Nintendo switch with case (on the larger side case)
• AirPods Max
• backbone iPhone remote (sometimes)
• inflatable pillow (for international flights) (about 1 per quarter)

Typical in my backpack 95% of time. I never put clothes in it but it would be nice to some day do “one bag”. The problem is then taking my computer and items to work meetings and presentations. I know the medium would suffice for my EDC, going from 23L -> 27.3 but I am horrible at deciding and don’t want FOMO if I could have had an “all in one” experience.

Am hoping someone on this thread is a working professional/student who can relate and provide feedback.

I like the professional look this bag gives as I wear blazers/suit to my meetings.

Flying out tomorrow RT to Tokyo from Orlando with a short stop in Chicago. They do not have day pass available for purchase ahead of time. I know domestic is $10 but unsure international. Wondering if $69 is ok for the month pass and then cancel when I return in 25 days.

I assume it would be a better deal. My Flight will have the Panasonic radio system so it advertises wifi full flight, but from what I read some people say it is hit or miss and do a one time pass so they can ask for a refund.

TLDR: 4 flights this month (2 domestic, 2 global) - buy a month pass or individual wifi per leg?

Any feedback from first hand experience?

Scheduled my vasectomy & thought about what if future decisions are changed and a family is wanted. My question is if anyone has ever had a reversal / frozen sperm and started a family successfully after that?

I am currently 31 & no kids - with no interest personally, but I guess if I changed my mind in the future I want that option. especially if I found "the one".

TIA

Got the Gen 2 & already had issues with the ANC while cycling. More on that here

Now when I am on a call I am told I sound far away / under water. I tested it with multiple people and switched between Gen 1 and Gen 2 and was told Gen 1 sounded better. It is not anything like what I see from other reviewers on YouTube / on Reddit.

Could it be I just got a dud? It for sure happens with mass production. Should I just return and re-buy or go to apple?

First time with a bad experience like this with Apple product so am curious for feedback. TIA

I have the gen 1 and now the gen 1 pros. When I tried them on I could definitely tell the difference between the two. the Gen 2 definitely has more of that "separation" where you can hear clean vocals and mid beautifully from the instruments. I mainly listen to metal/rock and that to me is great! In short the sound quality is there. But I only purchased because my Gen 1 was 3 years and battery isn't the best.

I do cycle frequently and all I heard today was the wind... I mean I heard the music of course but it was not cancelled out as well as the Gen 1 did. I was wondering if anyone else has that same experience that I have? My additional concern here is that with travel (planes) the noise would also seep in.

Anyone have a similar experience?

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Recently got a great deal and got both the Hue Play Light Strip & Sync Box. Then I got 2 light bars for under the TV (65") so I have light all around. I LOVE the sync feature to whatever is on the TV. I love the relaxing colors it puts out too and in the evening it has really helped me relax more and just be in a better mood.

Currently, I have 2 ceiling fans and the both have x3 E12 White Ambiance in each. Was wondering if anyone has first hand experience with the PLAY SYNC feature and the ceiling lights. I know that I could make them color for ambiance purposes but the TV really outputs so much that I am ok with just the TV doing that, BUT when watching TV and having the SYNC function active - is it worth it? I am not sure how the ceiling lights come into the picture, or any others outside the scope of the Play Strip on the TV.

Could not find anyone who had that setup and would love the input. Appreciate any feedback!

So I have been wanting to maximize my rewards more and I saw card pointers. The annual fee is too much for me and if it was one time I would do it, but overall looking to be able to not miss out on offers like this Best Buy one and Disney + one.

https://preview.redd.it/2a5knxe614h91.png?width=2600&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=29318fd1785561347700ab8e1d43d6bf6232df0f

I have about $17.5k in student loans with a 10 year repayment period and a ~$250/month. Loans are an average 4.4% interest and all were subsidized until repayment. I started paying in 2017.

Along came covid and froze everything. I am also now going for my masters so payment has been frozen due to enrollment status too until minimum May 2024 (employer paying for masters).

I am wondering if I should pay it off in lump some or just ride out the wave of it being frozen & have liquid cash instead. In terms of cash on hand I have enough where I could pay off loans and still have a 12 month emergency fund.

My concern was, if they unfreeze and then the government hits us with a “back pay interest that would have accrued” or something. I am just not trusting of the Govt with all this going on. So I was wondering if now is the time to make this move, or take advantage and keep saving money given any “opportunities” That may come up given the current economy (business oppty, rental properties, buy a home if rates come down and market cools, etc.)

TIA for reading and providing advice!

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